What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

How many people are dealing with broad mites this season?

Meds215

Member
I know so many people this year dealing with the dreaded broad mites, Yuba County, Nevada County and even me 2 hours south in the sierra, what a horrible thing, if your dealing with this please chime in and share your plan of attack. i hit my 2 plants with azamax, avid, ic3 essentria and finished with monterey garden spray for cats, im thinking about removing all the old growth that was damaged so i can tell if its still spreading or not.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
can you post a pic of your OD broad mite damage?

i know one guy who's got them, he got indoor OG clones from harbor side i believe, came on those. he went and sprayed the whole rotation but his plants burned a bit…definitely not ideal. i dont even want to go walk into his garden to see the damage…
 

theJointedOne

Active member
Veteran
I hear of horrible things coming out of some farms in the 530. Only been to one garden this year, and they had been spraying so much it was fuckin crazy..

the more you spray 'cides, the more you rely on them... the worse its gonna get..imho

check out high brix gardening
 

mojave green

rockin in the free world
Veteran
I hear of horrible things coming out of some farms in the 530. Only been to one garden this year, and they had been spraying so much it was fuckin crazy..

the more you spray 'cides, the more you rely on them... the worse its gonna get..
not to mention the mites building resistance!
 
Plants were initially treated with a nice list of pesticides, kontos, pylon, avid etc but each light dep has had spider mites and possibly broads so it's led me to using more neem, sulfur/pyretherin, nuke em, and other essential oils more often in hopes of eliminating toxic pesticide use altogether.

I also started feeding with AEA's products which seems to make them less tasty to mites in general. Sea shield, a liquid crab and silica product, contains chitin which bugs hate and it boosts the plants immune system. It's music to my ears because I hate bein in my garden for a week or so after the pesticides have been applied.

Another thing thats worth doing around now is investing in some broad /spider mite predators. I'm going to as soon as the buds get too big for spraying. $100-300 in prevention can go a long way. Swirskis, cumeris, and califonricus are all supposed to attack broads.
 

Cartel530

Member
Veteran
Yea i know what you mean Prop im scared to go in to my homies gardens too! shit im scared to leave my private road. In Yuba/Sutter Counties its been More of the russet mites then Broad Mites and a lot of people associate the damges from russets to broadmites as they look almost the same. Last year i had a homie literally loose a whole 50+ plant garden of all that BubbaOG. It was horrible dude was damn near in tears
 

Cartel530

Member
Veteran
Judo if you can get it.. for my other homie i gave him 3 doses of Forbid spray 3 days apart from eachother. Then 3 doses of Avid also 3 days apart. Then azatrol everyday or everyother day after that. Shit worked for him his plants are coming out of it.

Next year Everyone needs to preventative spray. Its the second year outdoor has been hit hard ( last year it was everywhere the FDA had to release a statement). Remeber last year when you couldnt even get tomatoes anywhere you went in the restaurants and stuff like that? They recommended a water soluble source of Sulfur (comes in a powder) as it is supposed to be HIGHLY effective against the Russet

So next year start off dipping your clones in forbid and avid regardless if they are clean.. do the follow up dips with avid. Then just invest in a shitload of azatrol and spray every 2 or 3 days until your too deep into flower you no longer feel comfortable. Im starting spraying for caterpillars this weekend. Fuck those fuzzy ass turds. Eat all the weed and turn in to a dumb ass moth! at least be a bad ass butterfly haha!
 

Nes

Member
I think we had BM, maybe it was RM. we're up in washington and had them outdoors this season. Heard of a bunch of folks round here getting them.
We sprayed with qualipro abamectin which is avid but 1/4 the price, and cocowet. Seemed to wipe them out, everything is bouncing back.
 
S

StanKDanK

treat it the same as regular spidermites, spray the undersides of the leaves with a high pressure water and get all the infected stuff picked off. use neem or canola oil to spray the undersides. I would also spray em daily with high pressure water for a week to make sure the mites have fucked off lol
 

iTarzan

Well-known member
It won't matter if you do kill them on this crop and the plants "recover". The end product will not have the flavor and potency it normally would have. You have to treat and kill, reclone, treat, veg, reclone, treat, reclone and then you have a chance that the toxins are gone and the new plants can now produce the buds they normally would. It is a long process.

I know nobody wants to hear this but you are best burning the entire crop so you have a chance for next year. You are at a disadvantage in southern states and in California because you never get a prolonged winter freeze that will kill stuff completely. In the northeast these critters get wiped out by old man winter. But we can still harbor them inside. So here we need to never bring infected plants back inside. Just start over with clean cuts or seeds.
 

Nes

Member
It won't matter if you do kill them on this crop and the plants "recover". The end product will not have the flavor and potency it normally would have. You have to treat and kill, reclone, treat, veg, reclone, treat, reclone and then you have a chance that the toxins are gone and the new plants can now produce the buds they normally would. It is a long process.

I know nobody wants to hear this but you are best burning the entire crop so you have a chance for next year. You are at a disadvantage in southern states and in California because you never get a prolonged winter freeze that will kill stuff completely. In the northeast these critters get wiped out by old man winter. But we can still harbor them inside. So here we need to never bring infected plants back inside. Just start over with clean cuts or seeds.

I've heard a lot of people say burn it down. We got ours on clones early in the season. we treated hard in veg, multiple times. We've got some indoor coming down next week that was treated, recoverd and it doesn't appear to have affected yeild at all. We'll see about potency after its cured. Our outdoor was hit harder, but the only ones who seem as though their yeild will be compromised at all are the Nigerian sunshines that got hit so hard they started stunting out, throwing out smaller leaves and lost a bunch of foliage. Even those are producing nicely.
 
Last edited:

trichrider

Kiss My Ring
Veteran
they beat me up pretty good this year.
in recovery though.

spinosad, DE, BTI just made them mad. had to get busy with the azamax four applications.

Never want to see them again....crossing fingers...
 

russjcan

Member
I'm down at 37 lat in the 209 and this is the worst year yet.Cedar chip mulch Predator mites preying mantis and 1000's of ladybugs are my strategy. It's a screenhouse so they have to stick around. Can't burn everything loving in town so just hope for a cold winter to kill everything and try to remove as much waste as possible. Bad year for whiteflies also. I spent a couple hundred on sticky yellow paper.
 

quit

Member
chlorfenapyr. Works wonders. I tried everything I mean everything and after this stuff I haven't seen a mite in over two years.
 

MedResearcher

Member
Veteran
Noticed a lot of people at the nursery buying sulfur. Asked the clerk, he explained it was for russet mites. Got home, and started inspecting closely.

Never actually found a russet mite, they are very hard to see/catch even with a microscope. I did find some eggs though. The garden looks nice at a distance, but the toxin from the mites cause the pistil to die right away, and the calyx never ripens and produces.

Not sure if a clone brought them in, or if they came in from the surrounding environment (530). I will say... I will never get a clone from anyone ever again!

Personally, I have just been spraying the garden down once a day with well water. I figure it has a little sulfur in it naturally, and the water pressure itself has to dislodge some of the egss/mites. Also I read aspirin can negate the toxin damage. An indoor grower told me that he has used aspirin to salvage a crop. So were just adding some aspirin to the feed water, and spraying them down. Hoping the colder weather will slow em down a bit to.

No idea, how bad it will be in the end. Surely gonna burn everything we can after harvest, and only use seeds. Maybe add sulfur foliars as a regular preventative maintenance, as well release some predators next season.

Mr^^
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
Next year Everyone needs to preventative spray. Its the second year outdoor has been hit hard ( last year it was everywhere the FDA had to release a statement). Remeber last year when you couldnt even get tomatoes anywhere you went in the restaurants and stuff like that? They recommended a water soluble source of Sulfur (comes in a powder) as it is supposed to be HIGHLY effective against the Russet

or plant 100% from seed and toss all clones thats my method next year.
 

MedResearcher

Member
Veteran
Hopefully that will be enough for next year. I'm worried about them hanging out on blackberry bushes or other native plants over the winter. Someone mentioned if the weather gets cold enough in the winter, it can kill them off, eggs and all. So fingers crossed for some long deep freezes.
 
Top