rb extractors
Member
I usually run the appion for 15 or seconds with the input side open to clear the unit and the hose of butane. You do need to be mindful of back pressure as that can make it difficult to clear both.
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Rebuilding Appion G5
- Thread starter JColtrane
- Start date
I understand is a big ass motor, but for the purpose of getting things done... Ive never been shy to create something and it doesnt look nice haha... purpose built.. Theres is tons of explosion proof motors which really means its a sealed unit I would suppose...
Essentially the appion is 2 parts... one the motor and the pump assembly.. Far from making your own pump like GW and others... I think this might be a viable option for me..
gonna try and frankestein something if I have some free time.
Essentially the appion is 2 parts... one the motor and the pump assembly.. Far from making your own pump like GW and others... I think this might be a viable option for me..
gonna try and frankestein something if I have some free time.
Highjack this motor? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sotera-SS46...id=100033&prg=9790&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=261096727958
I don't think you get it. The motor for the Appion is very specific.
It has a shaft running through the center so it can run a fan on one end, and a compressor on the other. Plus bolt patterns.
But go ahead and frankenstein a perfectly good, $700 refer pump
and show us what you come up with...
It has a shaft running through the center so it can run a fan on one end, and a compressor on the other. Plus bolt patterns.
But go ahead and frankenstein a perfectly good, $700 refer pump
and show us what you come up with...
As KC notes, it won't fit or attach easily, but the point is well made that an explosion proof motor would be better for our purposes.
Exactly what i thought, seems matching the shaft diameter would be the first challenge... maybe getting a shaft that would adapt to the motor then to the pump assembly moving the fan to the front and then driving that with a explosion proof motor. PTFE seals and seems like it could be a rock solid unit.
We recently got a good deal on a used G5 to keep around as a backup in case we have an issue mid run. Needless to say we got a really good deal on it, so did not hesitate to pick it up and throw some parts at it in case it needed them.
I got the airclean rebuild kit, with the valves, springs, and o-rings and I have taken the pump apart and cleaned the case and the insides and the rebuild was fairly easy.
My question is concerning the "copper" shims that go around the pistons. I see century tool lists 3 different sizes of shims (.5, .10, .15 mil).
I am not sure if someone had tried to rebuild this pump previously but on the first side, the copper shim is really 1 thin copper shim and a half of a thicker copper shim. My first thought was someone forgot to remove half of the old shim when rebuilding.
So, I opened the other side to see what it looks like. The shim on this side is another half copper shim and 2 full ring silvered colored shims all sandwiched together. What gives?
Does anyone know why century tool sells 3 different sized shims, how do I know which ones I need?
I got the airclean rebuild kit, with the valves, springs, and o-rings and I have taken the pump apart and cleaned the case and the insides and the rebuild was fairly easy.
My question is concerning the "copper" shims that go around the pistons. I see century tool lists 3 different sizes of shims (.5, .10, .15 mil).
I am not sure if someone had tried to rebuild this pump previously but on the first side, the copper shim is really 1 thin copper shim and a half of a thicker copper shim. My first thought was someone forgot to remove half of the old shim when rebuilding.
So, I opened the other side to see what it looks like. The shim on this side is another half copper shim and 2 full ring silvered colored shims all sandwiched together. What gives?
Does anyone know why century tool sells 3 different sized shims, how do I know which ones I need?
So i contacted the people I bought the rebuild kit off of and the answer I got back about the shims was basically I can use as many of them as I want, or none at all as they aren't needed.
Seems odd considering it comes with them installed, they are sold as a service part, and the repair guide specifically mentions not to lose them. So whatever, I put 1 shim back in under each cylinder.
The only thing I see in the appion manual is about the self test where the pump should kick off around 550psi with the inlet open and outlet closed in under 30 seconds. That happens fine... but should the pump continue to hold pressure?
If I close both valves, it equalizes out to ~400psi I think and then slowly drops back to 0, is that bad? The manual doesn't mention anything about holding pressure and I have never used this particular pump but am anxious to get it in operation as soon as possible
Seems odd considering it comes with them installed, they are sold as a service part, and the repair guide specifically mentions not to lose them. So whatever, I put 1 shim back in under each cylinder.
The only thing I see in the appion manual is about the self test where the pump should kick off around 550psi with the inlet open and outlet closed in under 30 seconds. That happens fine... but should the pump continue to hold pressure?
If I close both valves, it equalizes out to ~400psi I think and then slowly drops back to 0, is that bad? The manual doesn't mention anything about holding pressure and I have never used this particular pump but am anxious to get it in operation as soon as possible
Ok, so inlet side open, outlet side closed.
Turn pump on, outlet pressure reaches about 525psi in under 30 seconds and pump shuts off.
It doesn't reach 550 like the manual specifies, I assume my gauge just isn't calibrated properly. I leave for 2 hours and come back.
My outlet pressure is now at 250. Should I be holding full pressure at whatever it cut off at? Even with a fresh set of seals?
I would appreciate anyone that has a properly working one of these pumps could let me know, I have been anxious to get it into operation.
Turn pump on, outlet pressure reaches about 525psi in under 30 seconds and pump shuts off.
It doesn't reach 550 like the manual specifies, I assume my gauge just isn't calibrated properly. I leave for 2 hours and come back.
My outlet pressure is now at 250. Should I be holding full pressure at whatever it cut off at? Even with a fresh set of seals?
I would appreciate anyone that has a properly working one of these pumps could let me know, I have been anxious to get it into operation.
I have searched every HVAC forum I could find and the only thing mentioned anywhere to check the quality of your seals is that your unit does the auto off around 550psi in under 30 seconds. My unit does it in well under 30 seconds.
I cannot find anything about this unit being able to do a standing pressure test. The pump will hold pressure with the outlet closed, but slowly leaks back to 0 over a several hours so I just want to know if that is normal.
I cannot find anything about this unit being able to do a standing pressure test. The pump will hold pressure with the outlet closed, but slowly leaks back to 0 over a several hours so I just want to know if that is normal.
Ok, so while all you pump heads and pump haters are online im going to bump this up with some new info. Im still trying to get this AppionG5 fixed, and I don't know if it is or not.
I have all of the different sizes of shims, the 10mil ones seem to work best for me. I open the intake valve, close the output valve, turn the pump on.
Hits ~550psi shuts off. I turn the power to the pump off.
After 13 hours, my out gauge is at 100psi.
Again, I have searched and searched and I cannot find anything about this pump being able to do a standing pressure test for an indefinite amount of time.
Can anyone who owns a working one of these things tell me how long they are supposed to hold pressure? Dropping from 550 to 100psi after 13 hours is much better than the 550 to 0 I had in 2 - 3 before my repair, so obviously its still leaking, but is that normal is all I want to know.
I don't have a working one of these to know the normal operation and the manual just tells you to do the power on test.
I have all of the different sizes of shims, the 10mil ones seem to work best for me. I open the intake valve, close the output valve, turn the pump on.
Hits ~550psi shuts off. I turn the power to the pump off.
After 13 hours, my out gauge is at 100psi.
Again, I have searched and searched and I cannot find anything about this pump being able to do a standing pressure test for an indefinite amount of time.
Can anyone who owns a working one of these things tell me how long they are supposed to hold pressure? Dropping from 550 to 100psi after 13 hours is much better than the 550 to 0 I had in 2 - 3 before my repair, so obviously its still leaking, but is that normal is all I want to know.
I don't have a working one of these to know the normal operation and the manual just tells you to do the power on test.
I'll try to post some pictures and info regarding the shims over the next few days.
If your unit is still holding 100psi after that amount of time it's perfectly kewl.
I don't like using the over pressure trip as a test since it stresses the seals more than you need to.
Suggestions:
First, carefully remove the original pressure gauges.
Place these on a large concrete surface. Take a large, (at least 5 pound) hammer and beat the gauges into a fine powder.
Scream a lot. Throw powder away.
Replace gauges with decent units.
A simpler test as follows:
Connect an air compressor to the inlet port, open inlet valve, close the outlet valve and pressurize the unit to 100 psi.
I prefer to use a separate valve on the line from the compressor to the Appion and leave the Appion inlet valve open.
Close the air comp-Appion valve and wait.
If the Appion inlet and outlet gauge drop quickly (a few minutes) you have either a piston seal leak or a leak downstream of the cylinder exhaust valves. (rare, but the condenser could have a leak)
If the exhaust pressure holds and the inlet gauge drops, you have a leak somewhere before the inlet valve, either a loose fitting or the inlet valve on the front panel is leaking.
Windex makes a great leak detection fluid in a pinch.
If the pressure drops quickly, leave the valve from the air compressor to the appion open and listen. (make sure the room is quiet)
Wiggle the valve knobs on the front. Sometimes these fuckers leak.
If you hear a muted hiss from inside the appion, open it up and re-connect the air compressor. Spray some windex on the fittings and watch carefully. You'll usually find the leak.
These things were not designed to be leak proof, a small amount of leakage past the piston seals will happen.
RB
If your unit is still holding 100psi after that amount of time it's perfectly kewl.
I don't like using the over pressure trip as a test since it stresses the seals more than you need to.
Suggestions:
First, carefully remove the original pressure gauges.
Place these on a large concrete surface. Take a large, (at least 5 pound) hammer and beat the gauges into a fine powder.
Scream a lot. Throw powder away.
Replace gauges with decent units.
A simpler test as follows:
Connect an air compressor to the inlet port, open inlet valve, close the outlet valve and pressurize the unit to 100 psi.
I prefer to use a separate valve on the line from the compressor to the Appion and leave the Appion inlet valve open.
Close the air comp-Appion valve and wait.
If the Appion inlet and outlet gauge drop quickly (a few minutes) you have either a piston seal leak or a leak downstream of the cylinder exhaust valves. (rare, but the condenser could have a leak)
If the exhaust pressure holds and the inlet gauge drops, you have a leak somewhere before the inlet valve, either a loose fitting or the inlet valve on the front panel is leaking.
Windex makes a great leak detection fluid in a pinch.
If the pressure drops quickly, leave the valve from the air compressor to the appion open and listen. (make sure the room is quiet)
Wiggle the valve knobs on the front. Sometimes these fuckers leak.
If you hear a muted hiss from inside the appion, open it up and re-connect the air compressor. Spray some windex on the fittings and watch carefully. You'll usually find the leak.
These things were not designed to be leak proof, a small amount of leakage past the piston seals will happen.
RB
Fazer1HashTrees
Member
Hey there guys im about to buy a closed loope extractor. Which recovery pump would you guys recommend? Subzero extractors says the rg6000 is internally sealed and they say I should get that one. BHOGart says the ref tek diablo is the one I should get? Has anyone heard of these pumps actually exploding?
Hash Man
Member
My diablo died after 2 weeks of use. I would not recommend one.
Fazer1HashTrees
Member
Thanks for the quick input. Which recovery pump are you running now?
