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Blumat auto watering

Chevy cHaze

Out Of Dankness Cometh Light
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I hear that reservoirs need to be elevated to create the pressure im used to running autopots so that is a gravity system aswell I rely on the pressure created in the 100-200L res from the water pushing it out the tap at the bottom to create pressure. i might raise the tank 6 inch if that. is this going to work for blumat or do I need to get it up 1m?????

Hey grafta, per 10m (30ft) of feedline the rez needs to sit 1m (3ft) elevated. 5m feedline= 0,5m elevation etc. hope this helps! all th best
 

sanjuan

Member
The 1:10 ratio is the Blumat spec but I'd agree with the description for a 12 dripper kit at sustainable: "Reservoir should be at least 3' above ground level." (' = feet)

And it's not the volume of water creating pressure, just the elevation above the drippers. A one acre lake behind a dam one meter high generates less pressure than a filled water tank two meters tall.
 

skyview

Member
Another small but maybe important point is that the pressure calculations start from the water level in the reservoir, not from the bottom of it. And if you're using a float valve or keep the water basically at the same level, it's different than if the water level in your res fluctuates a lot.
 
M

maestroman22

Nutrient frequency?

Nutrient frequency?

Just out of curiosity, how often do you guys switch to water only feedings? Do only feed nute mixes? Or, do you do 1-2 fills of nutes, 1 fill water, repeat?

Maybe I missed something, but just didn't really see this discussed in the thread. I really appreciate anyone with first hand knowledge. On my second go-round and have had excellent results thanks to the knowledge of folks in this thread, and feeding alternately (1 fill nutes, 1 fill "plain" water, repeat). Guess I'm just wondering if someone has had better results with another schedule.

Thanks all! Peace and love!
 

SecondAttempt

Active member
I've got 10 pages left, Blumats came today.

Sustainable is selling a 40 carrot/Pressure Regulator kit on Amazon for $211 right now.

I don't want to order from Kent unless their website has improved... US plastics has 3/32 barbs too, anybody try them yet?
 

Lapides

Rosin Junky and Certified Worm Wrangler
Veteran
I have outstanding results using recycled, reammended soil doing strictly water the entire time.

Check my sigs for proof.
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Just out of curiosity, how often do you guys switch to water only feedings? Do only feed nute mixes? Or, do you do 1-2 fills of nutes, 1 fill water, repeat?

Maybe I missed something, but just didn't really see this discussed in the thread. I really appreciate anyone with first hand knowledge. On my second go-round and have had excellent results thanks to the knowledge of folks in this thread, and feeding alternately (1 fill nutes, 1 fill "plain" water, repeat). Guess I'm just wondering if someone has had better results with another schedule.

Thanks all! Peace and love!


I never do water-only feedings. At the very end of the run, I taper the feed down by adding straight water to the nutrient mix in the reservoir, but it never gets below about 200ppm (.5 scale) by the time I harvest.

With my bonsai moms, I will flush them every few months with straight water but I do it by simply pouring water over the media surface with a water jug. The blumats will sense the additional moisture and shut off until the media dries out enough for them to start dripping again.
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
Just out of curiosity, how often do you guys switch to water only feedings? Do only feed nute mixes? Or, do you do 1-2 fills of nutes, 1 fill water, repeat?

Maybe I missed something, but just didn't really see this discussed in the thread. I really appreciate anyone with first hand knowledge. On my second go-round and have had excellent results thanks to the knowledge of folks in this thread, and feeding alternately (1 fill nutes, 1 fill "plain" water, repeat). Guess I'm just wondering if someone has had better results with another schedule.

Thanks all! Peace and love!

That really depends on whats in your medium. Is it heavily loaded down with organic amendments or do you prefer to do most of your feeding with liquid soluble ferts.

If you choose the organic path, I think you'll be using plain water most of the time. If you're like me, you prefer the LSF path. My reservoir always had nutrients in it, from seedling to near harvest.

Fertigating will give you the fastest growing and most vigorous plants, imo. Just start at 25% of your normal feed, then re-evaluate plant growth after a 5-7 day interval to see if you need to up your nut level or reduce. If you see lower leaf yellowing and leaf abscission, Id up the N immediately. For greater control, insert a suction lysimeter into your media so you can take daily samples.

Plants respond best to a constant supply of nutrients with the EC levels of the soil solution being steadily maintained, rather than swingy cycles that a feed/water/feed, etc routine cause.
 
M

maestroman22

Thank you so much everyone!

Medium: FFOF amended with fish, bone, and blood meal, EWC, chunky perlite, greensand, an dolomite lime.

Nutes: EJ Grow, Bloom, Catalyst, Backstrap Molasses (unsulphured for AACT's), bat guano, kelp meal, fish emulsion, microblast, and meta-k. I also brew my own AACT's for foliar feeding during veg.

Lapides-I eventually want to switch to your method. However, I need to do my research before I attempt.

Thank you everyone for their prompt responses! It really helps me out!!

I'll be running nutes only until the last week or so. Everything I run is organic and I'm just trying to feed the microherd. So, I generally don't flush. No point in organics IMHO.

Love, peace, and safety!!
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I think that you are in for trouble. Blumats work great with either straight water or salt-based nutes that totally dissolve, and have difficulty with anything thicker. Even just adding SM90 to my nutrient mix caused me to have to purge my lines frequently.
 

Lapides

Rosin Junky and Certified Worm Wrangler
Veteran
Thank you so much everyone!

Medium: FFOF amended with fish, bone, and blood meal, EWC, chunky perlite, greensand, an dolomite lime.

Nutes: EJ Grow, Bloom, Catalyst, Backstrap Molasses (unsulphured for AACT's), bat guano, kelp meal, fish emulsion, microblast, and meta-k. I also brew my own AACT's for foliar feeding during veg.

sounds like youre trying to burn your plants.

but like rives said, all those liquid ferts you mentioned will clog the lines.
 
M

maestroman22

I really appreciate the helpful advice guys.

From my experience (I seriously hope I don't come off as a dick, LOL):

From my experience, an organics only regimen doesn't burn the plants and care (and a little drip clean) keeps the blumat lines clog free. I've used the blumats for not only cannabis, but all sorts of veggies (I've had about 9-10 runs with a variety of veggies), running only organics and I've never had any issues with nute burn. I've never heard of anyone experiencing nute burn when running organics. The book "Teaming with Nutrients" discusses it in quite detail.

Just massage the drip lines once a week, use drip clean, and you shouldn't have any clogs. Hell, I run molasses through my lines and I"ve never had a major issue (but as mentioned previously, I do preventative care). Then again, I am able to check my garden on a daily basis. When I know I'm going to be away, I run water only. Just feeding the established microherd I've built in my soil. This is after multiple years of use in this manner. Again, not just cannabis, but all sorts of other plants.

Just want to give those curious about organics and blumats a heads up. If you're willing to take the time to learn about organics, able to check your garden daily (I truly enjoy it but understand that luxury is not always afforded), and always try to be proactive in your maintenance of your blumats, it's possible. Treat them like gold, and you will receive golden eggs (or buds, in this case). As stated previously, I'd really prefer to have an active, living, soil, from the onset and feed water only. That's truly my goal. But, until I get smarter...I'll have to keep up feeding my liquid organics through my blumats. They've treated me very well thus far; whether it be king sized colas, or juicy tomatoes.

Thanks again all! Can't wait to keep learning!! And sorry for jacking the thread. I'm over and out unless anyone has any questions.
 

Lapides

Rosin Junky and Certified Worm Wrangler
Veteran
I really appreciate the helpful advice guys.

From my experience (I seriously hope I don't come off as a dick, LOL):

From my experience, an organics only regimen doesn't burn the plants and care (and a little drip clean) keeps the blumat lines clog free. I've used the blumats for not only cannabis, but all sorts of veggies (I've had about 9-10 runs with a variety of veggies), running only organics and I've never had any issues with nute burn. I've never heard of anyone experiencing nute burn when running organics. The book "Teaming with Nutrients" discusses it in quite detail.

Just massage the drip lines once a week, use drip clean, and you shouldn't have any clogs. Hell, I run molasses through my lines and I"ve never had a major issue (but as mentioned previously, I do preventative care). Then again, I am able to check my garden on a daily basis. When I know I'm going to be away, I run water only. Just feeding the established microherd I've built in my soil. This is after multiple years of use in this manner. Again, not just cannabis, but all sorts of other plants.

Just want to give those curious about organics and blumats a heads up. If you're willing to take the time to learn about organics, able to check your garden daily (I truly enjoy it but understand that luxury is not always afforded), and always try to be proactive in your maintenance of your blumats, it's possible. Treat them like gold, and you will receive golden eggs (or buds, in this case). As stated previously, I'd really prefer to have an active, living, soil, from the onset and feed water only. That's truly my goal. But, until I get smarter...I'll have to keep up feeding my liquid organics through my blumats. They've treated me very well thus far; whether it be king sized colas, or juicy tomatoes.

Thanks again all! Can't wait to keep learning!! And sorry for jacking the thread. I'm over and out unless anyone has any questions.

If you're smart enough to not burn your plants and keep them happy with that kind of regimen, I guarantee you can handle a water only program.


Yes, I am a dick, a big arrogant, cocky piece of shit.
 

StennyH

New member
FYI - don't use rubbermaid totes as your reservoir. It can't withstand the weight of the water. Mine failed miserably.

FYI - I bought the roughneck tote below, and it does just barely perfectly fit in my space, but it's not really sturdy enough to hold water. I'll give it a try, but don't feel very confident about it because the weight of the water distorts the plastic. I would have just bought a rain barrel but it wouldn't have fit in my area and would have cost 4x as much.
 

Dave Coulier

Active member
Veteran
FYI - don't use rubbermaid totes as your reservoir. It can't withstand the weight of the water. Mine failed miserably.

What sizes were you using? Ive used 25-30g tubs with no failures for extended periods of time. Mine are rubbermaid brand. Did you have another brand perhaps?

Anyways, they're still not the best. There are better alternatives. Look into vertical tanks made by Ace Roto Mold. They have tons of varieties to suit every need possible when it comes to selecting a reservoir, and they're study as shit. These tanks arne't gonna bulge like a rubbermaid tote and possibly burst.
 
J

Justace

This thread is great in so many ways, one in particular is proof of how discerning one must be when listening to folks on the inter web.
For every bit of wisdom dropped there is 10 parts of bs to misinform and confuse.
It can have you chasing your tail and getting mixed results from trying to make Sense of it all...
Think about it. people can't even agree on the operation of something ingenious purely for its simplicity with out ego's getting ruptured, bailing out of discussion leaving their toxins to infect others. You will see the same situation with almost any given subject.
Be aware people... you got to fight for your mind.
 

Chevy cHaze

Out Of Dankness Cometh Light
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I use the same approach as rives... No water fills in between. It's nutes all the way. I grow on coco and will go full strength nuted after week 2 of flower is over. I flush with unPHd water app.10 days prior to harvest. The blumats will shut off from the extra water in the medium, so no prob keeping the nutes out during flush. I flush repeatedly over the last 10 days to two weeks. Uopn initial flush I make sure the runoff comes down to tap water level in term of ppm.
 

sctracker

New member
Hey guys. I'm looking at building a blumat system for my place and wanted to build a pvc manifold instead of using the 8mm line. Does anybody know what size barb fitting fits into the 3mm drip line? I need something that has a barb fitting on one side and a threaded fitting on the other so I can drill and tap the barb into the pvc. Thanks!
 

skyview

Member
Hey guys. I'm looking at building a blumat system for my place and wanted to build a pvc manifold instead of using the 8mm line. Does anybody know what size barb fitting fits into the 3mm drip line? I need something that has a barb fitting on one side and a threaded fitting on the other so I can drill and tap the barb into the pvc. Thanks!
Here are some like that: http://www.sustainablevillage.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=199
They are a little less expensive if you get them with a 1/4" male fitting but then I think the PVC connector is both harder to find and more expensive. These can also come with an auto water stop when disconnected and for going to either 8mm Blumat line or 1/4" drip tube.
 
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