Nutrient issues? or soil pest?

[Nes]

Growing in The Rev's super soil recipe(first time on it), minus any spikes and layers. The ph came out, if i read the test right, at around 7-7.2, which is high, but but they seemed ok for quite some time now. also think our teas are lower i ph than that. Our teas consist of wormcastings, alfalfa, fish emulsion, molasses, guano , feather meal and kelp.
We're just sprayed avid for broad mites.
Now one of my 5 blue orcas (thai x afghani) is wonking out. Several of the orcas seem to be startingto flower, which seems early but its my first year outdoor. None of the other strains are flowering, though we're vout to start depping.
Here it is


Compared to the one next to it

 

[Nes]

closer upon the symptoms


I wasthinking about topdressing with and organic bloom mix, maybe some high p quano. Thoughts? whats going on? Thanks y'all.

 

[Photosynthesis]

Rev is a douche bag that doesn't know the science behind how a plant grows.

If you post pictures it will be easier to help you out.

Why the fuck are you putting feather meal in a tea with vermicompost?

And you are growing in organic soil, but you are using Avid?

You seem very confused.

The poultry industry uses low doses of arsenic in the feed so that it kills mice, vermin, etc. in the hen houses.

That arsenic is transferred to the birds. It is then present in the feathers. Doesn't seem a smart choice. Although you are using avid.

 

[Nes]

Rev is a douche bag that doesn't know the science behind how a plant grows.
If you post pictures it will be easier to help you out.
Why the fuck are you putting feather meal in a tea with vermicompost?
And you are growing in organic soil, but you are using Avid?
You seem very confused.
The poultry industry uses low doses of arsenic in the feed so that it kills mice, vermin, etc. in the hen houses.
That arsenic is transferred to the birds. It is then present in the feathers. Doesn't seem a smart choice. Although you are using avid.

I'm realising rev is a douche. the base soil recipe seemed decent, but the whole spike and layer thing seemed wonky so i ditched it.

I thought I posted pictures, hopefully they work now.

the feathermeal is in miniscule amounts for aminos and protein. Feather meal is approved for organic agriculture as both a soil ammendment and a feed additive. I'm not too worried about it.

Now as for the foliar use of avid, when you have broad mites and natural controlls arent working and something like this is on the line, some are inclined to use whatever they need to... Yes, I'm trying to stay organic and low impact, but I also need this to work. I'm not confused, I'm just not dogmatic.

 

[Photosynthesis]

Where did you get the recipe for the tea? Can you list the exact recipe?
I have yet to ever hear of anyone on the face of the earth put feather meal in a tea. It is interesting to say the least.

Can you list the exact soil mix that you are using?

Then maybe we can get somewhere.

 

[Nes]

Its patched together from what I've read from microbeman, and the rev . The feathermeal is really in small amounts, leftover from the tlo read. google feather meal in tea, and you'll find its not uncommon, especially for fungi dominant teas. the soil mix is rev's 2.0.

per gallon tea:
1tbs molasses
1 tbs kelp meal
1tbs alfalfa meal
1tbs 8-5-5 organic pelletized fert
2 tsp liquid fish
2tsp high n guano
1 tsp soluble maxi kelp

1 cup EWC (homemade)
1/4 local barnyard compost

Those are the per/gallon ratios. the feathermeal is about 1 tbsp per 10 gallons of tea.
This is brewed, then diluted 1:1 brewed tea to fresh water before application.

Its been working fine so far,check out the second plant in the original post - the 4 other blue orcas are healthy, aside from seeming to be starting to flower already. that wonky one is 1 of 5 of that strain, 1 out of 30plants total.
Other things I have concidered was that the soil wasnt thuroughly mixed in this spot

 

[Mikenite69]

Looks like ph issues to me.

 

[Nes]

Looks like ph issues to me.

I was thinking about checking it again... If its too high, would adding humics and dropping the water to closer to 5.5 help?

 

[Mikenite69]

If u are in soil u want to keep your ph around 6.3 to 6.5 when you feed or water if you decide to ph. Most soils will ph at 7 because of the lime buffers in it.

Also u don't wanna try to adjust your ph to fast. To much of a drop will cause a lot of issues. But if you ph 6.2 and up you should be fine.

Ph of 5.5 is like hydro or coco ph IMO.

I have also ran grows In promix without ph'in one thing that went into my buckets with no issues. Ph'in makes certain nutrients available faster to the plant but most soils have lime added for a buffer so it will make nutrients become available.

I know lots of people will hate when I say I don't ph anything in good dirt but I have done it for years without any issues.

 

[Photosynthesis]

You should not have to PH ANYTHING in organics.

I just got my soil test back from the lab, and my PH is 6.4. Exactly where it should be with the proper amount of organic matter.

Please list the soil recipe as I don't keep up with what Rev has going on.

As far as that tea goes what is the purpose of it? Microbes, nutrients, both, etc..?

You have hashed together multiple things that will unfortunately cancel each other out.

It would be best to start with a basic tea, and then build your way up from there. This kitchen sink approach is not the best thing for your plants with these specific ingredients.

Molasses, fish hydro, and EWC/compost, and that is a good place to start. Work with that, and then if you feel you need other things you can top dress.

I would focus more attention on foliar feeding your plants. I personally foliar feed 3 times per week. When you foliar feed your plats up to 80% of the "nutrients" can be absorbed by the plant within hours. Something to think about especially when you are having issues.

 

[Nes]

You should not have to PH ANYTHING in organics.

I just got my soil test back from the lab, and my PH is 6.4. Exactly where it should be with the proper amount of organic matter. .

dogmatic statements like this, especially when they immediately contradict themselves as this one does, dont help anyone. in some instances, you obviously do, as you just got your soil tested as well... Furthermore, depending on your water source, you may end up having to ph that too.

You have hashed together multiple things that will unfortunately cancel each other out.
.

This is a bit to vague for me,what exactly cancles what out?

http://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/9885098-why-tlo-dissecting-the-rev-mix-line-by-line
here is a link to a blog disecting and critisizingthe rev's soil mix. Its notgreat, too complicated, but how is that causing this?? and why are the other plants looking fine?

1 plant out of thirty, look at it and then the ones next to it, night and day, same soil, sameteas...

 

[Nes]

Everyone else is happier!

 

[Nes]

It started low, with the older leaves, then moved up the plant

 

[Photosynthesis]

dogmatic statements like this, especially when they immediately contradict themselves as this one does, dont help anyone. in some instances, you obviously do, as you just got your soil tested as well... Furthermore, depending on your water source, you may end up having to ph that too.



This is a bit to vague for me,what exactly cancles what out?

http://buildasoil.com/blogs/news/9885098-why-tlo-dissecting-the-rev-mix-line-by-line
here is a link to a blog disecting and critisizingthe rev's soil mix. Its notgreat, too complicated, but how is that causing this?? and why are the other plants looking fine?

1 plant out of thirty, look at it and then the ones next to it, night and day, same soil, sameteas...

https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=55107&pictureid=1288163View Image https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=55107&pictureid=1288162View Image https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=55107&pictureid=1288167View Image https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=55107&pictureid=1288160View Image https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=55107&pictureid=1288159View Image

A fact is not dogmatic. There are many people way smarter than me and you who have proven this is a fact.

You got it all figure out though so keep up the good work.

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

i think you do have a ph issue or something possibly locking out cal and or mag. those leaves are showing something nutrient related and not pest related in my opinion. check out sick plant thread for comparison.

if you use avid you might consider an ipm with other more quickly degrading chems. short half lives are good choices.

but all the avid resistant mites will remain and breed if you dont follow up with an ipm that works on different modes of action.

avid, forbid, pylon rotation plus kontos drench will be the end of your bms. kontos hits bms, cms, r.a.s, fungus gnats,and maybe even thrips. takes two weeks to start working but is gone from the soil in 24 hours i think.

good luck. remember to re up on the bennys youll need em feeding with organics.

 

[Nes]

A fact is not dogmatic. There are many people way smarter than me and you who have proven this is a fact.

You got it all figure out though so keep up the good work.

When you tell me that you never need to ph, followed by telling me you had your soil ph tested, thats a contradiction. Especially when you follow up with stating that your proper ph is because of the right balance of organic matterial, implying that an improper balance would lead to an improper ph...
I went to school for sustainable ag and plant botany. The professors, PhDs much smarter than me, had us testing our soil ph, and our teas. Sure, in the ideal circumstances you may not need to ph, but I've worked on farms that had well water 8.2 out the spigot, places the soil was too acidic, and places we had to acidify feilds toprep them for blueberry production... ph does play a roll in organics, just maybe not the the extent that it does in sythetics and hydro.

as for having it all figured out, clearly I don't as I'm asking for help in identifying the issues with this plant. But instead, it seems you are more interested in critiquing my methods and spreading dogma and vague psuedo-science about ingredients cancelling themselves out...
You haven't proposed one possible cause for this, and its not helping me out.

 

[Nes]

i think you do have a ph issue or something possibly locking out cal and or mag. those leaves are showing something nutrient related and not pest related in my opinion. check out sick plant thread for comparison.

if you use avid you might consider an ipm with other more quickly degrading chems. short half lives are good choices.
but all the avid resistant mites will remain and breed if you dont follow up with an ipm that works on different modes of action.
avid, forbid, pylon rotation plus kontos drench will be the end of your bms. kontos hits bms, cms, r.a.s, fungus gnats,and maybe even thrips. takes two weeks to start working but is gone from the soil in 24 hours i think.
good luck. remember to re up on the bennys youll need em feeding with organics.

Thanks for the ideas!
I thought cal mag at first, but we've been giving them some extra calmag and molasses, now i'm thinking maybe boron is locked out because of the high ph and abundance of Ca.

I was recommended forbid from the guys at the hydro shop , who- funny enough - refused to carry abemectin, but for indoor only. i'm hesitant, though to using nicotinoid based pesticides outdoors for the bees.

I talked to a guy working on the mmj pesticide regulations in my state, who recommended against the use of nicontinoid-based pesticides and for the use of abamectin for bm. While the brand avid is labeled for ornamentals, the concentrations of abamectin in it are approvedfor food production up to 10 days before harvest. I wentwith the qualipro o.15 ec abamectin. I'm not familiar with the pylon or kontos I'll have to check them out.

The reason I wondered about a pest was how it is hitting this one plant so hard. I was paranoid a mole or something had burrowed in and started eating the roots, but i've yet to find any telltale signs of a burrowing creature.

 

[Nes]

If u are in soil u want to keep your ph around 6.3 to 6.5 when you feed or water if you decide to ph. Most soils will ph at 7 because of the lime buffers in it.
Also u don't wanna try to adjust your ph to fast. To much of a drop will cause a lot of issues. But if you ph 6.2 and up you should be fine.
Ph of 5.5 is like hydro or coco ph IMO.
I have also ran grows In promix without ph'in one thing that went into my buckets with no issues. Ph'in makes certain nutrients available faster to the plant but most soils have lime added for a buffer so it will make nutrients become available.
I know lots of people will hate when I say I don't ph anything in good dirt but I have done it for years without any issues.

Thanks, this is what i'm trying now. With my indoor on well water, running biobizz with store bought soil, I never ph either. This is my first time outdoor with municipal clorinated water and heavily ammended soil. which leads to another thought...

Could this be a cloromine issue? We are filling 55 gallon drums and letting them sit for 48 hours before watering with them or making teas, and actively aerating our teas for 24-48 hours after that as well

 

[Granger2]

Why are so many people so adamant about pH'ing in organics? It's true that you don't need to, IF you have the right water, but a lot of people don't.

I think it's wise to pH for awhile if you're having problems to eliminate that as a cause.

But the bottom line is, if someone wants to pH, why jump on their ass? How does it hurt anything to pH? -granger

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

Thanks, this is what i'm trying now. With my indoor on well water, running biobizz with store bought soil, I never ph either. This is my first time outdoor with municipal clorinated water and heavily ammended soil. which leads to another thought...

Could this be a cloromine issue? We are filling 55 gallon drums and letting them sit for 48 hours before watering with them or making teas, and actively aerating our teas for 24-48 hours after that as well

No I water my garden straight from the tap all different veggies herbs weed etc. chlorine chloramine problems are not real. Total bullshit. I heard the owner of sweet myco teas say that they did a study where they mixed Thier bennies in r o water and chlorinated tap water and saw no difference in the quantitative values of microbial populations that they addedd