The best mini-split ductless heat pump/ac models list

[the gnome]

the connection point is at the condenser unit,
so where ever your unit sits, exposed or not is what you'll get.
of course somewhat sheltered with at least a roof over it would be my preference in
an outdoor situation if i had a say in it.
since the condenser is made to be outside so the connection point is also made to be in the weather also, I'm in the deep south so snow isn't a factor.

as far as electrical, I doubt a 12-3 would be good at 70ft,
probably 10-3 but I ain't a certified electrician, check with rives on the boards here, he will be the one to ask,
there's a thread on just such a scenario with 70ft of line to run, size etc etc.
do a search on rives posts
he's the go to guy here for anything elec.

if you have separate zones to cool get 2 units imo,
the 24K btu has a 220V plug and you supply the recepticle

i don't remember if it has a low temp ambient kit for low tmep ac operation... sorry
info should be available though?
let me check my paper work and see if i can find out

 

[jav2043]

nope, no vac needed,
the lineset/head unit and condenser is sealed.

the tricky part is the lineset is already connected to the head unit,
so you need 2 people minimum to mount the head unit and run the lineset to the condenser so it doesn't get kinked.
if you have 3people, install would be a total "breeze"...
I recommend the breeze for ease and for those with no hvac exp. or equip.
plus as i understand it, you can dis-connect, move the unit and still keep the charge.

Thanks that would make install a Breeze lol

 

[Ez Rider]

My 10 year old carrier mini-split just died, and I replaced it with a Daikin system. As a professional installer, I found the Daikin to be very well made, and very easy to install. It's super quiet, and the 18k btu unit I have now draws LESS power than the 12k btu unit it's replacing. The Daikin has several very nice features. There is a diagnostic mode, where the system will troubleshoot itself for most any system abnormalities. You get a readout of the trouble codes on the remote control screen. It has an auto pump-down feature on the condenser, which make R&R easier. It has a "powerful" mode, which increases system capacity for short bursts when needed, and a "quiet" mode, where the extremely quiet condenser runs even quieter.

@ the guys having problems with the flare fittings. I'd hazard a guess that your lines have the wrong type of flare on them. Most techs still use their old flare tools from the days of r-22. The new 410-a systems require a special, 410-a specific flare tool, which produces a deeper flare than the the older tool. If the flare isn't done with the proper tool, the fitting will almost certainly leak. Also, the fittings NEED to be torqued with a torque wrench. Too loose and they leak, too tight and the flare will crack...and leak. Using a dab of refrigerant oil/lubricant on the face of the flare is a good idea too. You really want to avoid brazing the pipes on a 410-a system if you can.

 

[the gnome]

excellent info EZ rider,
the flair fittings on my mitsu were factory items.
after it leaded and we looked at it you could see it was slightly *not right*
so i told him to cut and braze

Q, why is brazing not good on 410systems?

 

[Ez Rider]

excellent info EZ rider,
the flair fittings on my mitsu were factory items.
after it leaded and we looked at it you could see it was slightly *not right*
so i told him to cut and braze

Q, why is brazing not good on 410systems?

If you braze/weld the pipe without running nitrogen through it while brazing(most guys don't bother), copper oxide will form inside the pipe. This black soot will most likely clog/restrict the refrigerant metering device, hampering performance. R-22 systems weren't as much of a problem because the r-22 can dissolve the oxide to an extent. The oxides can play hell with a 410-a system though.

You probably have a lineset with r-22 type flares...I've seen a few people , including myself have problems with it. I just went a bought a $300, 410-a/mini-split specific tool set because I was tired of fucking with it. The new flare tool works perfectly. Trying to match up shallow flares with deep nipples just doesn't work out.

 

[Asslover]

I too learn about shitty flared ends on "generic" line sets. You know, the ones ACwholeslaer, goductless, Kingersons, etc, sells.
I went out and bought a proper 410A tool and have never looked back. Now I automatically cut off the flares and use the flare tool; proper depth/height etc is built in. No guess work and perfect flares every time.
It pays to invest in the proper tools, especially for those of us who just can't have a tec do any installing...
The only line sets I've found that are consistent are the ones from Mitsubishi. Don't know about other brands of line sets though as I only use Mr. Slims'

 

[Asslover]

Ez Rider, do you have a link to the model Daikin you bought? I'd love to see the specs, Im in the market for another mini split an have been eyeballing Daikin lately.

 

[the gnome]

If you braze/weld the pipe without running nitrogen through it while brazing(most guys don't bother), copper oxide will form inside the pipe. This black soot will most likely clog/restrict the refrigerant metering device, hampering performance. R-22 systems weren't as much of a problem because the r-22 can dissolve the oxide to an extent. The oxides can play hell with a 410-a system though.

You probably have a lineset with r-22 type flares...I've seen a few people , including myself have problems with it. I just went a bought a $300, 410-a/mini-split specific tool set because I was tired of fucking with it. The new flare tool works perfectly. Trying to match up shallow flares with deep nipples just doesn't work out.

seems like mistu would have the 410 flares on their equipment.
so its the line set that may have the r22 flares then?
seems like someone would be on top of that situation.
I mean, you get a 410unit and the lineset coming with it should match.

thanks for dropping in EZ Rider, I'm need to put you on my *help* list for HVAC stuff along with assluva

EDITED FOR:
now that you mention the oxides can play on performance, my mr slim is working great, but not quite as cold as my breeze.
wondering if that metering device is getting clogged?
is the metering dev. in the head or condenser?
if i have a partial clog is it a matter of just drawing everything down, cleaning and vac and fill the 410 back in?
or is other oxides in the sys. and it'll clog again
damn! hvac guys! he said to cut and reflair the bad fitting on my unit but he didn't have the proper tools to do it.
i thought , what hvac doesn't have a damn flair tool???
now i know he didn't have the 410a flair kit.
and said to order a new mitsu flair, that would have taken 3wks??
so i said cut and braze the thing.
if he had explained it out like you just did in 1 short post I would have told him run nitrogen!
sounds like maybe he didn't know?

 

[Asslover]

From my experience it wasn't that the line set was flared for r22, it's that they were poorly done. Hard to explain but the shiny "ring" was not square to the top. If you look in the install manual, the flare MUST be as perfect as the one shown.

 

[the gnome]

From my experience it wasn't that the flared ends were wrong, it's that they were poorly done. Hard to explain but the shiny "ring" was not square to the top. If you look in the install manual, the flare MUST be as perfect as the one shown.
'gnome, did you buy your line set from any of the dealers I listed? If so, those are not made by Mitsubishi. They're for 410A yes, but poorly flared.

i didn't see your posts on this page when i posted, and yeah, go ductless is where i picked everything up at.
the guy showed me the leaky flair, and you could see it wasn't right, like out of round or something.

so looking at another unit?
gonna get a back up unit like i did?

 

[oneofus]

as far as electrical, I doubt a 12-3 would be good at 70ft,
probably 10-3 but I ain't a certified electrician, check with rives on the boards here, he will be the one to ask,
there's a thread on just such a scenario with 70ft of line to run, size etc etc.
do a search on rives posts
he's the go to guy here for anything elec.


i don't remember if it has a low temp ambient kit for low tmep ac operation... sorry
info should be available though?
let me check my paper work and see if i can find out

hey Gnome,

TY for the info and advice. I appreciate it.

I'll do some more research/searching and look at that thread you mentioned and then ask the elec. question to Rives.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Asslover]

i didn't see your posts on this page when i posted, and yeah, go ductless is where i picked everything up at.
the guy showed me the leaky flair, and you could see it wasn't right, like out of round or something.

so looking at another unit?
gonna get a back up unit like i did?

Yup, getting a back up. It just makes sense at this stage, need to protect my investment

 

[Ez Rider]

Ez Rider, do you have a link to the model Daikin you bought? I'd love to see the specs, Im in the market for another mini split an have been eyeballing Daikin lately.

Here's the service manual, should tell you all you want to know...http://www.daikinac.com/content/assets/DOC/ServiceManuals/SiUS041111%20RX(K)N%20-%20FTXN_K(E)VJU%20Service%20Manual.pdf

seems like mistu would have the 410 flares on their equipment.
so its the line set that may have the r22 flares then?
seems like someone would be on top of that situation.
I mean, you get a 410unit and the lineset coming with it should match.

thanks for dropping in EZ Rider, I'm need to put you on my *help* list for HVAC stuff along with assluva

EDITED FOR:
now that you mention the oxides can play on performance, my mr slim is working great, but not quite as cold as my breeze.
wondering if that metering device is getting clogged?
is the metering dev. in the head or condenser?
if i have a partial clog is it a matter of just drawing everything down, cleaning and vac and fill the 410 back in?
or is other oxides in the sys. and it'll clog again
damn! hvac guys! he said to cut and reflair the bad fitting on my unit but he didn't have the proper tools to do it.
i thought , what hvac doesn't have a damn flair tool???
now i know he didn't have the 410a flair kit.
and said to order a new mitsu flair, that would have taken 3wks??
so i said cut and braze the thing.
if he had explained it out like you just did in 1 short post I would have told him run nitrogen!
sounds like maybe he didn't know?

The metering device is in the outdoor unit along with a liquid line filter drier. One or both can become clogged with debris. Not sure what type of metering device your unit uses...some are easier to clean/replace than others.

FWIW, I always cut of the flares that come on the linesets, for 2 reasons.
1) The factory never seems to get the deep flare right.

2) You really should be using the flare-nuts that come with the unit. Using these nuts requires that you cut and re-flare.

Most techs aren't willing to spend $100 on the proper tool...it's cheaper/easier to say something is wrong with your equipment

 

[the gnome]

thanks EZ Rider,
bottom line, I need to be self sustaining in the HVAC dept
like i am in everything else with the grow.
I can always count on solid advice from the forums guys.
just need to start investing into the tools to do the basic
on 410 systems

hey Gnome,
TY for the info and advice. I appreciate it.
I'll do some more research/searching and look at that thread you mentioned and then ask the elec. question to Rives.
Thanks again for the help.

I wish i could've nailed it down tight for ya oneofus,
keep an eye on whadeezlrg's thread in grow-design forum
you have lots in common with it and rives will be along soon

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=6446590#post6446590

 

[Ez Rider]

thanks EZ Rider,
bottom line, I need to be self sustaining in the HVAC dept
like i am in everything else with the grow.
I can always count on solid advice from the forums guys.
just need to start investing into the tools to do the basic
on 410 systems



I wish i could've nailed it down tight for ya oneofus,
keep an eye on whadeezlrg's thread in grow-design forum
you have lots in common with it and rives will be along soon

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=6446590#post6446590

Any decent DIY'er should be able to handle a mini-split install/un-install without a tech. You need a good tool kit, like this one I just bought:http://www.cpsproducts.com/product/hand-tools-bags-tlb410a/ , add a vacuum pump for evacuating the lines, QUALITY tubing cutters and benders, a nitrogen tank/manifold for purging/pressure testing, and some nylog (http://refrigtech.com/Product/Sealants/Nylog/nylog_blue.html) for lubricating/sealing your flares. I'd also recommend a multi-meter that can measure Amps. Armed with these items, you should breeze through most mini-split installations, and you'll be better equipped than 90% of the techs you could call.

 

[Asslover]

Anyone know where i can find just the torque wrench kit?

 

[Rolldaddy]

I have a minisplit question that I'm sure a few of you will know the answer to. Which brand minisplit AC's will automatically change from cool to heat or vise versa in order to maintain a constant temp?

I have a central ac unit that I was able to put an auto changeover thermostat with programable dead bands. Which I use a 3 degree dead band. So with lights on it stays on cool mode, and after lights out it automatically changes from cool to heat to stay within that 3 degree fluctuation.

 

[Treetroit City]

Anyone know where i can find just the torque wrench kit?

http://www.centurytool.net/TLTWSAE_CPS_SAE_Torque_Wrench_Kit_5_8_1_5_16_p/cpstltwsae.htm

 

[whadeezlrg]

I have a minisplit question that I'm sure a few of you will know the answer to. Which brand minisplit AC's will automatically change from cool to heat or vise versa in order to maintain a constant temp?

I have a central ac unit that I was able to put an auto changeover thermostat with programable dead bands. Which I use a 3 degree dead band. So with lights on it stays on cool mode, and after lights out it automatically changes from cool to heat to stay within that 3 degree fluctuation.

a 10 degree drop from day temps to night temps is ideal in my experience. it helps keep stretch under control, nodes stack harder, and buds are more dense... I personally shoot for 75-77F lights on 65-67 lights off...summer makes the swing harder to achieve for me, and my summer buds are no doubt slightly less dense than my sept-may results fwiw...

I know I really didn't answer the question you were asking, sorry

 

[Ez Rider]

I have a minisplit question that I'm sure a few of you will know the answer to. Which brand minisplit AC's will automatically change from cool to heat or vise versa in order to maintain a constant temp?

I have a central ac unit that I was able to put an auto changeover thermostat with programable dead bands. Which I use a 3 degree dead band. So with lights on it stays on cool mode, and after lights out it automatically changes from cool to heat to stay within that 3 degree fluctuation.

Most any system that has BOTH heating AND cooling modes, AND has an "auto" mode should be ok. You set a temp, then the unit either heats or cools to maintain it, just like a central ac. You'll have to play with the settings some, because the room will ALWAYS be a few degrees off from where you set the mini-split. The stat is on the face of the indoor unit after all.

I would highly recommend the Daikin systems. Just put one in my place. Easy install, all the bells and whistles, and super quiet, inside and out. Very programable/user friendly as well.