Need a solution to my electrical problems

[Nodgman3087]

The problem is that the there are numerous components in the CAP units rated for 15a at best, with some cheap offshore shit that will not stand up to it's nominal rating. The discolored wires in the other fellows controller are NOT from loose connections, but from wire that is too small for the load. If you are going to use that thing, I would feed it with a 15 or 20a breaker, change the receptacles out to some commercial or specification grade ones, and change any wires out that are smaller than #12 if you feed it with a 15a or 20a breaker, or #10 wire if you feed it with a 30 amp. Be aware that the receptacles are completely inadequate for a 30a feed, as is anything that will plug into them.

You do know that CAP is bankrupt & out of business, don't you?

Obviously I didn't, nor do I have any experience with light controllers. So look, if I do a 20amp breaker what wire size should I use? For the romex . Thanks for helping me

 

[rives]

Why is that obvious?

If you use a 20 amp breaker, then you need to use a minimum of #12 wire.

 

[Hammerhead]

CAP=CRAP. All of there stuff overheats. if you put your hand on anything that is now made by HF it gets way to hot. I was hoping that HF would do the right thing and redo the stuff the right way. I was disappointed that they didn't. There t5 units are solid..

 

[Nodgman3087]

Why is that obvious?

If you use a 20 amp breaker, then you need to use a minimum of #12 wire.

Well because had I known I wouldn't have bought it. Any ways thanks for the help.

 

[Nodgman3087]

So the room where I'm mounting the mlc-4x is upstairs directly above the circuit breaker, which is located inside the master bedroom closet. The circuit breaker box is build into the wall(sheet rock). Its not a surface mount. The wall that the box is mounted is an exterior wall, with insulation in it so what I did was cut a 1"square patch of carpet out, then took an extra long drill bit and went straight thru the floor, and then thru the ceiling right above the breaker panel. My plan was to use either metal conduit, (or hide it behind "surface mounted wire channels"), then go thru the sheet rock on side the panel. I plan on using a 20amp breaker to connect the controller, using 10/2 w/ground romex to wire it all up. I tried to replace all the receptacles with heavy duty isolated 20amp receptacles, problem is the old ones are riveted to the MLC-4x. Anyways I only plan on running maybe 3000w tops ( I currently only have 1000w worth of lights with another 1000w's in the mail). Sounds about right? I know that the controller isn't the best, in fact I really wish I had researched more before buying the MLC-4x, it isn't UL list or anything. I think powerbox brand is listed, not UL but at least it's listed.

 

[rives]

Are you planning on running straight 240v? 10/2 w/ground will not give you the option of using the neutral to get some 120v. Even if the MLC-4x is exclusively 240v, if you ran 10/3 you would have the option later of 120v without re-running the feed if you decided to swap out the controller.

The #10 is a bit of an overkill on a 20a circuit for as short as the distances sound, but there is nothing wrong with overkill.

I would drill the rivets on the receptacles if at all possible - they are very likely to be the weakest link in the whole thing. From what I saw, CAP was using some cheap Chinese shit to fill their need for a "universal" receptacle because no reputable factory would touch building components that ignored every electrical standard for the last 100 years.

 

[Jhhnn]

As rives offers, you want 10/3 w ground or 12/3 w ground for a more versatile setup. Your controller won't run a 120v fan synchronously with 240v lighting otherwise.

#10 cable is difficult to work, particularly with 4 in the sheath. 12/3 w/ ground allows plenty of circuit head room for your purposes. You could go to 3000w of lighting + fans, pumps & whatever else you could reasonably want using 12/3 w ground.

 

[Nodgman3087]

Are you planning on running straight 240v? 10/2 w/ground will not give you the option of using the neutral to get some 120v. Even if the MLC-4x is exclusively 240v, if you ran 10/3 you would have the option later of 120v without re-running the feed if you decided to swap out the controller.

The #10 is a bit of an overkill on a 20a circuit for as short as the distances sound, but there is nothing wrong with overkill.

I would drill the rivets on the receptacles if at all possible - they are very likely to be the weakest link in the whole thing. From what I saw, CAP was using some cheap Chinese shit to fill their need for a "universal" receptacle because no reputable factory would touch building components that ignored every electrical standard for the last 100 years.

Want me to post a pic of the inside the cap box? Hold on let me get you some photos. When I looked online every picture shows different receptacles, these aren't too too horrible.

 

[Nodgman3087]

Oh and yes it's just 240 for the lights only. Hey can anyone tell me with a digital ballast like an Apollo 1000w ballast, do they automatically detect the voltage change or do I need to swap wires or whatnot

 

[Nodgman3087]

As rives offers, you want 10/3 w ground or 12/3 w ground for a more versatile setup. Your controller won't run a 120v fan synchronously with 240v lighting otherwise.

#10 cable is difficult to work, particularly with 4 in the sheath. 12/3 w/ ground allows plenty of circuit head room for your purposes. You could go to 3000w of lighting + fans, pumps & whatever else you could reasonably want using 12/3 w ground.

Wait are you talking about the fans inside the ballast? Just trying to comprehend what your saying.

 

[Jhhnn]

Wait are you talking about the fans inside the ballast? Just trying to comprehend what your saying.

I mean like inline cooling fans for the lights. Some systems have more than 1 fan- 1 that runs all the time & another that just adds more heat extraction when the lights are on.

Check the instructions for your ballast. Some are 120v only.

 

[rives]

Want me to post a pic of the inside the cap box? Hold on let me get you some photos. When I looked online every picture shows different receptacles, these aren't too too horrible.

A picture might help, but you aren't going to be able to tell anything by looking at the receptacles. It would depend on the quality of the materials, the spring tension on blades, etc. If they use push-in wire connections rather than screws, get rid of them.

Oh and yes it's just 240 for the lights only. Hey can anyone tell me with a digital ballast like an Apollo 1000w ballast, do they automatically detect the voltage change or do I need to swap wires or whatnot

Can't help you on the ballast, I've never used one.

Wait are you talking about the fans inside the ballast? Just trying to comprehend what your saying.

No, the ballast fans should be fine at whatever the ballast voltage is. He is talking about if you want some fans to come on at the same time as the lights, like an air circuit through the hoods or an extra fan to stir the air around when the lights are on.

 

[Nodgman3087]

Hey no one has advice on what I need to do to wire this digital ballast for 240? I think I read somewhere that digital ballast can detect the change and automatically switch without the need to swap wiring. What will happen if the ballast is on 120 and the circuit is on 240? Will I ruin the ballast?

 

[rives]

I believe that there are both auto-sensing ballasts and fixed voltage.

You said "a digital ballast like an Apollo 1000w" - is it an Apollo, or is it a knock-off? A model number would help.

 

[Nodgman3087]

I believe that there are both auto-sensing ballasts and fixed voltage.

You said "a digital ballast like an Apollo 1000w" - is it an Apollo, or is it a knock-off? A model number would help.

Sorry, this is the link to the 1000w. I said "like", because I have an Ipower 600w,and Apollo 400w , they all seem very similar, dimmable.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apollo-Hort...2943164?pt=US_Hydroponics&hash=item1c41cb8cbc

Okay so after looking into it some more , it seems like all I have to do is switch out 120v "cable" with the 240 cable(the wiring between the receptacle and the ballast). Problem is when I ordered the ballast I didn't ask for the 240 cable. Would it be possible to take the original 110v 3 prong plug cut it off and replace it with a 240 style plug, would that work?

 

[rives]

The labeling on the ballast should say something like 120-240vac or 120-277vac like in the third picture in your link if it will accept a range of voltages. If all it says is 120v, or 240v, then it is only designed to accept the designated voltage.

Yes, you can just cut off the plug and replace it with a Nema 6-15 or 6-20 plug in order to use 240v 15a, or 240v 20a.

 

[Nodgman3087]

Hey rives and everyone else who helped, I wanted to tell you guys I finished hooking up my MLC-4x. It took me forever because I wasn't going to even break the cover off the panel until I knew what I was doing for sure. Anyways I wanted to thanks you guys for answering my questions.

 

[Snow Crash]

CAP=CRAP. All of there stuff overheats.

Hey rives and everyone else who helped, I wanted to tell you guys I finished hooking up my MLC-4x...

Well, we tried...

 

[Jhhnn]

Well, we tried...

Nodgman isn't pushing the controller very hard at all so his chances of success are greater because of it. He also unloads the existing house wiring circuit at the same time, a good thing.

If the CAP controller overheats significantly, he's been properly cautioned to look out for that & will likely buy a better one should that occur.

Good luck, Nodgman. We all need some of that.

 

[Nodgman3087]

Hey after I installed the mlc-4x I went into the bathroom and the power came on for a split second then I heard a popping noise and then it went off, but when I check the breaker wasn't tripped. So I check the breakers with a voltage meter and I was pulling the right voltage. What else could it be? It's the light over the sink and the the light/ vent/ heater combo, nothing works. I'm thinking it may be a bad connection along the way.