The truth about sealed rooms
- Thread starter Floridian
- Start date
not trying to be argumentative. if it works for your situation i dont think it matters if you dont rely on it for income and its just a light or two. im to a multi light system that generates income. that all said if all your other parameters arent in optimal ranges you wont achieve these results and might as well just run an exhaust system. co2 is only a yield booster if r.h. and temps are in the right ranges.
S
sirius haze
thanks for the reply, years ago i was reading a book bought at sensiseeds by Van Patten about growing indoor with CO2, a simple book at this time(written by Jorges Cervantes i heard ?) and it was in the book that higher temp is better and other parameters too.
i would really like to test a sealed room one day, i have a hard time imagining a growroom without exhaust and intake fan, i like this fresh air on my plants
keep the good work fellows !
Sirius
~~~
i would really like to test a sealed room one day, i have a hard time imagining a growroom without exhaust and intake fan, i like this fresh air on my plants
keep the good work fellows !
Sirius
~~~
thanks for the reply, years ago i was reading a book bought at sensiseeds by Van Patten about growing indoor with CO2, a simple book at this time(written by Jorges Cervantes i heard ?) and it was in the book that higher temp is better and other parameters too.
i would really like to test a sealed room one day, i have a hard time imagining a growroom without exhaust and intake fan, i like this fresh air on my plants
keep the good work fellows !
Sirius
~~~
i felt the same way til i tried it. i went from my highest yield ever being 1.33 per k to my new (only once achieved) being 2.1 per k.
not to mention you dont need to forgo fresh air. there is a lot to be said for exchanging your air daily during the dark cycle. lets out harmful buildup of other gasses. lowers humidity and co2 for the dark hour. lights out exhaustem turns on til full exchange achieved and again if needed. dehu at night and himidify during lights on. you want your range to be 80-86 lights on with rh at about 70% during lighted hours. 10 degrees less and 50 % rh or less during dark.
Damn! Im too damn scared to start my own grow. Im mentally paranoid. Any advice from a fellow Floridian like myself??
Just remember John Morgan is for the people and Grady Judd is for popping perverts.That said don't steal electricity and shut down lights when meters being read if possible.Never keep a weapon or more than 24 plants in the grow room(s).A rooted clone counts as a plant.Dont keep a scale or weighed out bags.Keep it to yourself I'm not going to tell you never to tell anybody like most here because I'm realistic.Ive been doing it about 12 years now it still scare the poopie outta me man
evertking
Active member
If you got all ya ducks in a row.. No haters.. No crazy ex's and NEVER, NOT FU*king ever tell anyone! You will be fine! If your grows tight(no odor!) and ya lips.. Always keep a few fire extinguisher on hand. Some good smoke in Sarasota!
If people ask ya" hey, man.. You smoke weed? You tell em naw, I don't even like the smell of it ,But I got a friend that does and hes got that hook up but its 300 a zip!
massive Fresh air x Co2 =
massive Fresh air x Co2 =
An environmental controller that shuts off co2 when the exhaust kicks on ftw...and make sure you get LOTS of fresh air. 3 x more than most suggest and you will not be disappointed. I ran sealed rooms for years and never could really make the plants stay looking happy for long, or achieve the 1g per watt everyone talks about. I started giving massive amounts of fresh air and co2 and..well Ill just say have a look at for yourself.... 15.5lbs from 6k watts... big soil doesnt hurt either..
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=256481
massive Fresh air x Co2 =
An environmental controller that shuts off co2 when the exhaust kicks on ftw...and make sure you get LOTS of fresh air. 3 x more than most suggest and you will not be disappointed. I ran sealed rooms for years and never could really make the plants stay looking happy for long, or achieve the 1g per watt everyone talks about. I started giving massive amounts of fresh air and co2 and..well Ill just say have a look at for yourself.... 15.5lbs from 6k watts... big soil doesnt hurt either..
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=256481
I
iffey
Because of the phrase "if it ain't broke don't fix it."
Hush, you're right and if I did just that and didn't keep changing shit, I'd be good.
uthenger
Member
supplemental CO2
supplemental CO2
Plants gain dry matter (producing sugars and oxygen from ambient CO2 and water) using the energy of light (light intensity).
In nature the CO2 concentration is about 400 ppm (0,04%), even higher inside the urban environment, because internal combustion engines, non-renewable energy sources for heating and so on).
When the concentration of CO2 is less than ? ppm, plants begin to suffer, they begin to suffocate in the lack of CO2.
When the concentration of CO2 is increased, let's say to 800-1000 ppm or above, the dry material production is increasing until a point where the limiting factor becomes the light intensity (that's right, how much light receive the plant). Also you can increase the light intensity by placing more and more light sources in the growing area, but above a certain light intensity your plants will not benefit more from increased light intensity, this is the point where they reach the light saturation, they cannot process more CO2 because the chlorophyl content that they have is saturated.
Another important factor is ambient temperature (and that is increasing by increasing light intensity, even when you use light coolers because the radiated heat). As temperature increases, the capability to bond CO2 is increasing until is reached an optimal point, above that temperature the CO2 usage is saturated, and even decreases as temperature reach higher level. If the ambient CO2 concentration is higher, the the optimal temperature is higher too.
supplemental CO2
Plants gain dry matter (producing sugars and oxygen from ambient CO2 and water) using the energy of light (light intensity).
In nature the CO2 concentration is about 400 ppm (0,04%), even higher inside the urban environment, because internal combustion engines, non-renewable energy sources for heating and so on).
When the concentration of CO2 is less than ? ppm, plants begin to suffer, they begin to suffocate in the lack of CO2.
When the concentration of CO2 is increased, let's say to 800-1000 ppm or above, the dry material production is increasing until a point where the limiting factor becomes the light intensity (that's right, how much light receive the plant). Also you can increase the light intensity by placing more and more light sources in the growing area, but above a certain light intensity your plants will not benefit more from increased light intensity, this is the point where they reach the light saturation, they cannot process more CO2 because the chlorophyl content that they have is saturated.
Another important factor is ambient temperature (and that is increasing by increasing light intensity, even when you use light coolers because the radiated heat). As temperature increases, the capability to bond CO2 is increasing until is reached an optimal point, above that temperature the CO2 usage is saturated, and even decreases as temperature reach higher level. If the ambient CO2 concentration is higher, the the optimal temperature is higher too.
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uthenger
Member
Also I forget to point out the fact, that if the light intensity is low, there will be minimal beneficial effects by increasing the CO2 content of the air. On small scale setups, as I have, the limiting factor is light intensity (I have one 70W metal halide (12500 lm) and one 70W sodium vapor (9600 lm) lamp for an area of apx. 40x50 cm (16"x 20"). There would not be beneficial for me to use CO2 enrichment. Also if would use one 140 (150) W HID, then I would have more light intensity because the efficiency of bigger lamps is higher (they produce more lumen/W)
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I agree with most of what you say with some variance. Like in my room, with canopy temps at 78-81, I believe you will get more production with say 1000 ppm CO2 than with 400. I could get even more production with temps around 86-88 with CO2, but my terpenes would evaporate. I've never done a side by side, but my plants are using the extra CO2, so that tells me what I need to know. Good luck. -granger
shredGnar
Member
No doubt... if I forget and a tank runs out the room goes from 1000 ppm to 200 or less in an hour.
With that being said I run my veg room with a/c and a humidifier, no ventilation, and they still grow too fast sometimes.
No PM or Botrytis? Never? Why would that help as Botrytis and PM can come from the plant itself. Or from the air. PM and Botrytis are everywhere. Higher lumins and a dry atmosphere help reduce it.
A room with NLD varieties will have less PM and Botrytis, with or without CO2.
-SamS
A room with NLD varieties will have less PM and Botrytis, with or without CO2.
-SamS
shredGnar
Member
In my opinion granger is correct. With a sealed room it is easier to control all aspects, including temp and humidity.
I have never seen PM in my garden, and only ever had bud rot when I had dehuey issues and humidity was way out of hand and I didn't know it. From a quote I read from "hemp pests and diseases" the two species of powdery mildew that affect cannabis like specific environmental conditions.
One likes it hot and dry, the other damp and cold. Neither one sounds like proper environment for growing cannabis. Keep your grow environment in check and pm spores will never even germinate, regardless of how many are in your grow.
Additionally, as you said, fungal spores are ubiquitous. They are in every breath of air we take. So by using ventilation you are constantly drawing in air containing spores. By using a sealed room and uv-c bulbs in my a/c plus hepa filters I am constantly killing or trapping spores inside the room.
Not to mention my production went thru the roof. ..
I didn't say "never." I said "seldom," but I don't attribute that to CO2. I attribute that to good air flow, RH control, and temps-"properly managed." I've never had PM, and in 10 years in my room, Botritus only on 2 strains that I stopped growing. Got it on a total of 3 big fat buds on 2 plants in different crops. -granger
uthenger
Member
This is probably wrong (on post #42), also i read that in 1760, before the industrial revolution this was the level of carbon-dioxide in the atmosphere, so the limit could be more lower.
Also on post $43 I have used Lux instead of lumens, on rating the bulbs output (as new, the metal hadide lamps use up to 20% after the first 100 hours of operation, but it still brighter than the HPS and plants love it, even in flowerig they prefer the MH side of the growroom.
