help :(1 week old, light green in color, yellow tips -pro-mix

[Cat Jockey]

From the read you should be able to deduce this!
1. Prom-Mix is ph stable and ready to go, lime already applied. Lime not needed.

Agreed

2. If you don't over fertilize the medium or dump a bunch of lousy tap water (high in Bicarbonates) or RO (lacking Bicarbonates) water through the pot; the medium will handle the ph all by itself.

You are not referring to using RO water in your nutrient regiment here, are you? That's the only water I recommend. And nutrient manufacturers recommend it, and use it when they make their nutes.

What the medium won't handle, which I am referring to, is the fact there will be no flushing through of the nutrient solution, for to do so will turn the bottom of the pot into a soggy mess. So, if he doesn't overwater, he will experience a build up of salts in the rootzone, affecting both the pH and ionic exchange process.

I don't think pro-mix will 'handle', or take care of, or buffer that that situation at all. In fact, that article you posted says in it things like:

After watering and using fertilizer, the pH of PRO-MIX is fluid and can change.

and

However, any fertilizer will have an influence on the pH of PRO-MIX.

That doesn't sound to me like a medium 'handling the pH all by itself.'

3. Fertilize with a ph balanced nutrient that specifically recommends a type of water that you use (hard water or RO water blends) and Bicarbonates will be closely matched.

There is more than one, but one of the reasons I recommend RO only, is that fertilizer manufacturers don't make a nute for 'everyone's' tap water. Tap water varies from location to location and day to day. RO water gives you consistency and greater and finer control of what is going on in your rootzone.

4. The added lime (by OP) is going to most likely raise the ph at some point to a unacceptable level.

Agreed.

5. Fertilize at low to medium level every watering, or if you must flush, mix tap and RO water 1/2 & 1/2 to a ratio of 50-170 ppm is best.

I don't agree with this advice, at all. In peat/perlite/vermiculite mixes, I believe you get the best performance out of water to 10-15% runoff. Every time. Witht he attached caveat being that one has their plant in the proper sized container for the life stage and root development. And I flush with something like Clearex, followed by RO water, followed by an immediate application of 1/2 strength nutes. I'm trying to flush and clean shit out of the rootzone, not put more in it with whatever crap may be in my tap water.

And what determines the strength of your nutirent regiment in peat/perl/vermic, is your genetics, the stage of life (and health) and your growroom, including both your light size AND the environmental control (CO2, temp, rh, air circulation, etc).

Doing it that way, not watering to runoff and GUESSING what strength to apply, is an easy way to end up in the exact same condition he is heading for now, with a build up of salts in the rootzone.

Peat/perlite/vermiculite is NOT soil. It is a soiless medium, as it contains no clay or sand, which is NOT a minor issue when it comes to the proper pH range of the nutrient solution you use. Add a little more perlite to your mix, to make it a bit more airy, it is nothing more than a hand watered, drain to waste, hydro system. And can be treated such with great results.

I suggest for future watering, when using the correct sized pot, booyah researches all of the people who say 10-15% runoff and study up on the 'lift the pot' method to know when to water.

 

[2 Legal Co]

I'll get the hell outta this thread after this post, as I am not trying to fug it up with some big argument. But I will make this last post, 'cause I'm trying to get a newer grower steered in the right direction, and have the most success possible - which, incidentally is the only reason I visit the Infirmary, it's a goal I have. To see if I can get a least one new grower steered in the right direction when they start a thread asking for help on diagnosing and fixing a problem.

To do that, I feel it necessary to not just drop a post with some suggestions, but make sure that person doesn't get steered in the wrong direction, which can easily happen on weed forums. I'm not trying to be a dick, I'm trying to remain committed to helping the thread starter do the right things for his/her girls.

Doing so requires me being blunt and diret, certainly in this case, 'cause them seeds just popped and they have yellowing leaves, are stressed, etc., and there just ain't a whole buch 'o time for pussyfootin' around the sitch-e-ation.

Somethings about how this grow has gone and was planning to go need to change very quickly, else a harvest is in jeopardy. Agree or disagree, that is how I see it and the motivations for my continued posting in this thread, not to be a dick.



Sweet Lady Jane indeed likes dry feet and likes to dry-out inbetween waterings. I'll strongly advise against, however, taking a 4 gallon pot with am already stressed seedling in it and trying to bottom water it. You will end up with 4 gallons of very saturated grow media that will not dry out for days and days, and it will stress the plant. Add to that the lime that has been added into the promix and whatever love juice he has already poured on it, and doing that could kill them, since they are already showing signs of stress.

Let's not forget the we don't just have a pot size issue here. We have the issue of lime that shouldn't have been added to the growing medium and shot 'o dat love juice that new growers are wont to use too much of, too soon.

It ain't just the pot size. Those seedlings need to be repotted into a new growing medium that doesn't have all that stuff going on.

Well, no, I have never put an autoflower seedling in a 4 gallon pot with promix dosed up with lime. But I have grown a whole bunch 'o weed in peat/perlite/vermiculite 5 gallon homer buckets. And a lot more stuff than that. And I have transplanted a whole bunch of marijuana plants in that time. I don't care that it is an autflower. The only real big thing I would be concerned with there is learning when it stopped growing roots.

But I flat out call bullshit on whatever rumor is floating around the weed forums about how autoflowers get stressed for up to a week from a transplanting and that they need to be started in final pot size. I don't care if breeders are sayin' it ...

I cannot emphasize enough that not overwatering will lead to rootzone issues I mentioned, way more stressful and way more impactful, negatively, than any of this supposed week long stress supposedly involved with transplanting an autoflower.

Not only is transplanting not this hugely stressful thing, the results of doing so are good. It gives you a more uniformed root structure, which aids in the way the growing media and root structure hold and filter the nutrient solution and give homogenous exposure throughout the pot.

It gives you finer and more even control of your nutrient regime.

Yes, you can stress a plant transplanting. If you do it wrong, if you get new growing media too wet, etc. But doing it right isn't that difficult. And doing it right really isn't stressful in the way being talked about in this thread.

He doesn't have 'too big of a pot', he has 'WAY too big of a pot'.

My Colorado brutha or sister, I ain't trying to be a dick. Hope you understand why I took issue with specific points in your post, and the intention, agree with my advise to booyah or not, is to help.

Yea ... numbers restricted in Colorado. That's never really worked for me. Lol. I've had fun in the asshole puckering x,xxx plant count game. I'm just trying to share what I've learned over the years. And I don't know it all, but I do know some ...

Pretty sweet place we got here. We'll just keep to ourselves how kickass Colorado is and not let anyone know ...

All ya'll have a lovely afternoon. Think my opinion is pretty clear. Best 'o luck, booyah. You'll need less luck along the way, if you follow my advice, though. It's a stressed seedling, so yes, be very gentle. Read up on transplanting. Don't over wet new soil. Don't always accept 'commonly accepted and regurgitated facts on the weed forums' as actual facts. The sooner, the better.

Yup, it's a bitch keeping the count down that far. Hell just one batch of cuts in the cloner bucket and you're screwed.

Please don't take anything I say as directed at you Cat Jockey. My post was strictly for the OP consumption.

But yes, I was likely dead wrong in mentioning wicking to the OP as He's already in a bit of 'hot water'... relatively speaking. lol

And FURTHERMORE, don't anybody even think of moving to Colo. , it's really not that nice a place and the Cost of Living is thru the roof.

 

[boooyah]

Here are the 3 blue himalaya's. If I didn't know any better I would say they could you some N..

 

[boooyah]

Here is the red poison it took it the worst.


The white widow seemed to do the best


and the narcotherapy, it had the one twisted leave since day 1.

 

[boooyah]

Didn't reead the whole thread but desided to open my mouth anyway. I have been using promix for years with and have reused to mix after a good flush with no ph problems and neer add an once of lime till the 4th reuse. It already has the lime so adding lime to fresh promix is kind of a waste I feel anyway. But thats not your problem. Themz babbyz and dont need a thing to eat but what they brought to this would with them in the cotyledons. I never feed my seedlings (other then root stimulator) till the cotyledons start to yellow. Also like has been said the pot size is to large for the root system. Mold is almost inevitable. I would repot them into solo cups till they get a good root system and then start the bigger pots. jmho

Oops, guess that answers my question, wait till the baby leaves turn yellow..

This isn't my first grow, but it is my first grow from seed, as well as first time with auto strains, as well as trying organic nutes. Also my last grows I had nice clean creek water to use, now I have town water. I do have a few grows under my belt, and I understand the importance of using appropriate sized containers and repotting as necessary. This is a trial and error as far as the pot's are concerned, and I knew when I did it that it would be a struggle maintaining the proper moisture level. The pro-mix hp is dry's quite quickly, especially with the roots air pots. So far I believe the pots are not causing me any issues. During germination I kept the top inch of soil quite wet, then when they popped I allowed it to dry out except for directly around the seedling. Since then I have been monitoring the top few inches of soil, allowing it to cycle through wet and dry. I did take buddy's recommendation and allow the water to soak up through the bottom of the pot when I watered today. I gave each plant 2 liters of water, they should be good for 4-5 days, at which point I planned on my first feed. (would be given at day 14, and dosage would be at 25% strength) Now im uncertain about the schedule since these problems have come up.

 

[Speed Racer]

I am still what many would call a newbie, but I did see you said dolomite lime also was added. I wouldn't add unless using RO water. Besides overwater, 4 liters for such small babies and high ph tap which shouldn't be bad with the lime added, but could be high maybe. I add dolomite lime too, but use RO water and think you may be getting too much calcium locking out nutes some and/or ph too high maybe; as I said I'm new, but read alot. Also what is your tap water ppm. You don't need any kinda nutes for 2 weeks with ewc added too. Some myco and molasses are fine. Hope helps. peace... SR

 

[boooyah]

I am still what many would call a newbie, but I did see you said dolomite lime also was added. I wouldn't add unless using RO water. Besides overwater, 4 liters for such small babies and high ph tap which shouldn't be bad with the lime added, but could be high maybe. I add dolomite lime too, but use RO water and think you may be getting too much calcium locking out nutes some and/or ph too high maybe; as I said I'm new, but read alot. Also what is your tap water ppm. You don't need any kinda nutes for 2 weeks with ewc added too. Some myco and molasses are fine. Hope helps. peace... SR

Hey Speed,

Alot of people seem to add the dolomite lime, guess thats why I picked up on it. I don't have a ppm meter so im unsure what the tap water is. Too much calcium is a definite possibility. This monday will be the 2 week mark, at which point I planned on their first feeding. Seems like if I use RO water from here out, that it should help the fact that I added the lime to the mix.

From what i've read the dolomite lime added shouldn't hurt anything.. but with the possibility of high ppm in my tap water, the combination might be nipping me in the butt.

Thanks for the reply

 

[Apache Kush]

The tap water PH mistake was to high and it was pretty much toxic to a seedling, early on.
I bet the ppm on the hot tap water like that is pretty high and didn't help them early on

Im sure they will grow out of it now, keep the forum posted, gl

I hope its not a gassing off effect, that shit worries me.
Cover all your bases with a good micro nute when there ready to feed,

 

[Speed Racer]

Stick with RO water since lime added already and think may could be manganese lockout from too much calcium from your pics???May be why the micro you added helped. I add Azomite to my mix too and I think works great for added secondary nutes. I have my mix on the Welcome to Classic seeds thread in his forum and updating soon as have tweeked it and getting to a sweet spot, but still varies plant to plant. peace. SR
Calcium

Calcium is probably the most underestimated nutrient because it is in the secondary nutrient section but in general Calcium is almost as abundant in cannabis plants as the three main nutrients. Calcium can be found in roots, cell membranes and through the whole plant and it helps your weed to do a number of things like:

• Combat pests and illnesses
• Strengthen cell wall structure
• Improves other nutrient absorption
• Helps to translocate nutrients across the whole plant
• Helps transform Nitrogen into forms used by plants enzyme system
• Turning on and off different kind of enzymes
• Helps to keep membrane permeability (keeps needed nutrients inside and let other nutrients travel from cell to cell)
• Helps to strengthen stems and leaves
• Helps plants compat heat stress by increasing respiration

Calcium works best in a PH range of 5.4 – 5.8 in hydroponic set up and 6.5 – 8.0 in soil and Calcium lockout happens when the PH of the growing medium gets below these two values. This means that if you are growing in soil you should not let your PH dip below 6.5 and when using hydroponics then this number is 5.4 as then Calcium will not be available to your plants and they will show calcium deficiency.
Toxicity

First of all Calcium toxicity is hard to diagnose and it is almost impossible to do from just observing the leafs but you can observe calcium toxicity by getting signs of Magnesium, Potassium and Manganese deficiency as too much calcium will lock out these three elements and in some cases you can also get Iron deficiency symptoms.
Deficiency

Deficiency of Calcium is more common but not as commons as for example Nitrogen or Potassium deficiencies. Calcium Deficiency starts with young leaf tips yellowing and getting yellowish spots. If no Calcium is added to your plants growing medium then these yellowing leaf tips will also spread to older leaves and young leafs will start to curl at the edges and new shoots can show deformation signs and also show some weakness in the stems and branches. Calcium deficiency can also exhibit stunted and slow growth of young plants and young branches. Another Calcium deficiency symptom is a hollow stem but this can be seen only after the plant has been harvested or by squeezing the bigger stems and if they feel hollow you may have a too low calcium amounts in your soil or fertilizer.
- See more at: http://www.autoflowering-cannabis.c...sulfur-for-cannabis.html#sthash.Msvt7cJG.dpuf

Calcium

Calcium is probably the most underestimated nutrient because it is in the secondary nutrient section but in general Calcium is almost as abundant in cannabis plants as the three main nutrients. Calcium can be found in roots, cell membranes and through the whole plant and it helps your weed to do a number of things like:

• Combat pests and illnesses
• Strengthen cell wall structure
• Improves other nutrient absorption
• Helps to translocate nutrients across the whole plant
• Helps transform Nitrogen into forms used by plants enzyme system
• Turning on and off different kind of enzymes
• Helps to keep membrane permeability (keeps needed nutrients inside and let other nutrients travel from cell to cell)
• Helps to strengthen stems and leaves
• Helps plants compat heat stress by increasing respiration

Calcium works best in a PH range of 5.4 – 5.8 in hydroponic set up and 6.5 – 8.0 in soil and Calcium lockout happens when the PH of the growing medium gets below these two values. This means that if you are growing in soil you should not let your PH dip below 6.5 and when using hydroponics then this number is 5.4 as then Calcium will not be available to your plants and they will show calcium deficiency.
Toxicity

First of all Calcium toxicity is hard to diagnose and it is almost impossible to do from just observing the leafs but you can observe calcium toxicity by getting signs of Magnesium, Potassium and Manganese deficiency as too much calcium will lock out these three elements and in some cases you can also get Iron deficiency symptoms.
Deficiency

Deficiency of Calcium is more common but not as commons as for example Nitrogen or Potassium deficiencies. Calcium Deficiency starts with young leaf tips yellowing and getting yellowish spots. If no Calcium is added to your plants growing medium then these yellowing leaf tips will also spread to older leaves and young leafs will start to curl at the edges and new shoots can show deformation signs and also show some weakness in the stems and branches. Calcium deficiency can also exhibit stunted and slow growth of young plants and young branches. Another Calcium deficiency symptom is a hollow stem but this can be seen only after the plant has been harvested or by squeezing the bigger stems and if they feel hollow you may have a too low calcium amounts in your soil or fertilizer.
- See more at: http://www.autoflowering-cannabis.c...sulfur-for-cannabis.html#sthash.xslHmG25.dpuf
Calcium

Calcium is probably the most underestimated nutrient because it is in the secondary nutrient section but in general Calcium is almost as abundant in cannabis plants as the three main nutrients. Calcium can be found in roots, cell membranes and through the whole plant and it helps your weed to do a number of things like:

• Combat pests and illnesses
• Strengthen cell wall structure
• Improves other nutrient absorption
• Helps to translocate nutrients across the whole plant
• Helps transform Nitrogen into forms used by plants enzyme system
• Turning on and off different kind of enzymes
• Helps to keep membrane permeability (keeps needed nutrients inside and let other nutrients travel from cell to cell)
• Helps to strengthen stems and leaves
• Helps plants compat heat stress by increasing respiration

Calcium works best in a PH range of 5.4 – 5.8 in hydroponic set up and 6.5 – 8.0 in soil and Calcium lockout happens when the PH of the growing medium gets below these two values. This means that if you are growing in soil you should not let your PH dip below 6.5 and when using hydroponics then this number is 5.4 as then Calcium will not be available to your plants and they will show calcium deficiency.
Toxicity

First of all Calcium toxicity is hard to diagnose and it is almost impossible to do from just observing the leafs but you can observe calcium toxicity by getting signs of Magnesium, Potassium and Manganese deficiency as too much calcium will lock out these three elements and in some cases you can also get Iron deficiency symptoms.
Deficiency

Deficiency of Calcium is more common but not as commons as for example Nitrogen or Potassium deficiencies. Calcium Deficiency starts with young leaf tips yellowing and getting yellowish spots. If no Calcium is added to your plants growing medium then these yellowing leaf tips will also spread to older leaves and young leafs will start to curl at the edges and new shoots can show deformation signs and also show some weakness in the stems and branches. Calcium deficiency can also exhibit stunted and slow growth of young plants and young branches. Another Calcium deficiency symptom is a hollow stem but this can be seen only after the plant has been harvested or by squeezing the bigger stems and if they feel hollow you may have a too low calcium amounts in your soil or fertilizer.
- See more at: http://www.autoflowering-cannabis.c...sulfur-for-cannabis.html#sthash.xslHmG25.dpuf

 

[boooyah]

The tap water PH mistake was to high and it was pretty much toxic to a seedling, early on.
I bet the ppm on the hot tap water like that is pretty high and didn't help them early on

Im sure they will grow out of it now, keep the forum posted, gl

I hope its not a gassing off effect, that shit worries me.
Cover all your bases with a good micro nute when there ready to feed,

I think I took the saying "plain ol' tap water for the first few days" a little to literally. I thought about the off-gasing thing, butfrom what I have read it doesn't happen anymore these days, although my first reaction was to get them out of the tent asap..

 

[Apache Kush]

I think I took the saying "plain ol' tap water for the first few days" a little to literally. I thought about the off-gasing thing, butfrom what I have read it doesn't happen anymore these days, although my first reaction was to get them out of the tent asap..

Good glad they fixed that crap from china lol..

Your problem with the tap water, was just like this guys you tube channel I watched today,

he put a PPM pen his tap water and its was 300 or 400 ppm!! (edit:420ppm)

just plain well water no nutes no additives, thats really high but must be mineral rich well water,
i think he was in a smaller town too not a urban city

he didn't get it tested to see why, but just the pen saved his ass. He switched to RO fyi...

crappy, shit water, will be toxic at that high a ppm he said obviously more with younger plants

so that's a common mistake with tap water, hope that is the problem mostly

 

[Apache Kush]

Here is the video, the part on his water #'s is

@ the 1:50 mark or 2 minute in to the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDPNivzg7t0

 

[Speed Racer]

High. Apache Kush is right and I have seen well water up to 800 ppm. To much calcium and others for sure, but don't look like nute burn and still think could be manganese or maybe the iron lockout as mentioned in the Calcium article. Sorry the triple copy. I didn't have a ppm pen for a long time and my plants suffered. $40 for an ok one and I know exactly the ppm coming out and going in. Also is great to check your teas ppm so not to overdo it. peace... SR

 

[boooyah]

Thanks for the article speed,

According to that about the calcium toxicity, it says to flush with ph water.. Will that not work so good for me, because the lime is directly in the soil?

 

[Cat Jockey]

Thanks for the article speed,

According to that about the calcium toxicity, it says to flush with ph water.. Will that not work so good for me, because the lime is directly in the soil?

Don't flush a 4 gallon pot with a seedling in it. Your growing medium will stay wet for days and days, your roots will not grow, and your plant will wither.

Look, this is proving to be a waste of time.

Multiple people have pointed out you have a pot size issue. Multiple people have pointed out you have an issue with the extra lime you added.

You got yer fingers in your ears on all of that.

Now, you are on a quest to locate some N or Ca issue, the result of which will be your itchy fingers looking to pour more shit, unnecessarily on yer girls. And fuck 'em up more.

Repot yer girls, properly and carefully. Add a smidge, if you can't help yourself of weak nutrient solution. Then leave 'em the fuck alone for a few days.

You got this 'autflower; therefore I got to pour as much shit as pssible on my girls 'cause I ain't gots me no time to grow, cause they are going to start flowering tomorrow' thang goin' on. You should change your approach on that.

This is an observation, only. No insult to anyone, whatsoever. The majority of who is on weed forums are Beginner and Intermediate growers. At it can turn into, on some issues, one big Echo Chamber of bullshit on certain issues. Like this stupid idea that autflower cannot be repotted, else they are so stressed they won't grow for a week. Bullshit. Your new, read it, and accepted it as fact.

Take many things you read on the weed forums, presented as absolute fact, with a grain a salt.

I can't speak for anyone else in this thread, but I have got 20 years into this shit. 15 on all of the weed forums. Thousands of MJ plants have passed through my gardens. I've run large grows and have been sought out as a consultant on large grows.

You are brand new at this. And a LOT of people, many of whom's posts you have read and 'learned all you need to know about autoflowers and pot size' are BRAND NEW at this - the blind leading the blind, often.

Think me arrogant douche for saying all of that, but I know what the fuck I am talking about when it comes to this shit. I'd listen to me, reassess your plans, reassess the information you have accumulated on the weed forums, and then research some more, on your own. Certainly about proper pot size and how to transplant.

Good luck. You are going to need it, as you don't really seem open to ALL solutions to your problems, just what you 'think' should be done.

And booyah, you do what ya wnat with yer girls, makes no difference to me. You, I, and whomever has posted in this thread aren't the only ones reading it. So, if you don't think what I am saying is of value, maybe another beginner reading this will take something positive away they can apply to their garden. Which is the reason I have persisted in your thread, 'cause yer pretty close minded on the pot size thang ...

Toodles ...

 

[boooyah]

I've been considering purchasing a tds/ec meter, but with organic earth juice nutrients I don't think they give an accurate ppm reading, due to the large ammount of organic content. Although it would be handy to test my tap water / ro water. Going to get the ro system setup today.

 

[boooyah]

Don't flush a 4 gallon pot with a seedling in it. Your growing medium will stay wet for days and days, your roots will not grow, and your plant will wither.

Look, this is proving to be a waste of time. - If you didn't notice I asked a question, as to if it was a good idea. Seems to me you might be the waste of my time, considering I have mentioned several times, that I am not interested in using different sized pots. This is an autoflower experiment in 4gal pots, from start to finish. If it would make you happy I could plant more in smaller pots, and do it the regular way. That is not why I have come here. I came here due to the yellowing of the leaves, which I doubt has anything to do with the current pot size.

Multiple people have pointed out you have a pot size issue. - you said "may not be causing you problems now, but might cause them down the road"

Multiple people have pointed out you have an issue with the extra lime you added. - Yes they have, while others have said it shouldn't cause a problem, and that they have added it as well.

You got yer fingers in your ears on all of that.

Now, you are on a quest to locate some N or Ca issue, the result of which will be your itchy fingers looking to pour more shit, unnecessarily on yer girls. And fuck 'em up more. - not much of a quest, have a full cabinet of nutes. Was looking for advice on if they required N, due to the light green color. Get your words straight, I was on a quest for advice yes.

Repot yer girls, properly and carefully. Add a smidge, if you can't help yourself of weak nutrient solution. Then leave 'em the fuck alone for a few days. - for the 4th time, not real interested in repotting them into smaller containers. Although repotting them into 4gal of pro-mix hp without the dolomite lime is an option.

You got this 'autflower; therefore I got to pour as much shit as pssible on my girls 'cause I ain't gots me no time to grow, cause they are going to start flowering tomorrow' thang goin' on. You should change your approach on that. - I haven't poured any shit on it other than tap water, some myco madness, which the product was designed for. And the 1/20th solution of earth juice microblast which also is designed to be used with tap water.

This is an observation, only. No insult to anyone, whatsoever. The majority of who is on weed forums are Beginner and Intermediate growers. At it can turn into, on some issues, one big Echo Chamber of bullshit on certain issues. Like this stupid idea that autflower cannot be repotted, else they are so stressed they won't grow for a week. Bullshit. Your new, read it, and accepted it as fact. - You admitted to never growing an autoflower, so how can you be so certain? Especially when there are numerous side by side comparisons showing differently.

Take many things you read on the weed forums, presented as absolute fact, with a grain a salt. - Will do.

I can't speak for anyone else in this thread, but I have got 20 years into this shit. 15 on all of the weed forums. Thousands of MJ plants have passed through my gardens. I've run large grows and have been sought out as a consultant on large grows.

You are brand new at this. And a LOT of people, many of whom's posts you have read and 'learned all you need to know about autoflowers and pot size' are BRAND NEW at this - the blind leading the blind, often.

Think me arrogant douche for saying all of that, but I know what the fuck I am talking about when it comes to this shit. I'd listen to me, reassess your plans, reassess the information you have accumulated on the weed forums, and then research some more, on your own. Certainly about proper pot size and how to transplant. - Doesn't take much research to learn how to transplant a plant... You turn it upside down, and put it into a bigger pot.

Good luck. You are going to need it, as you don't really seem open to ALL solutions to your problems, just what you 'think' should be done. - I think that is quite the opposite, I took into consideration everyone's opinion, from your RO water suggestion, to the lovely lady's links about the pro-mix. smokin' joe had some good info, speed did too about the possible calcium toxicity. I was fairly open minded to everyone's suggestions, except for the pot size.

And booyah, you do what ya wnat with yer girls, makes no difference to me. You, I, and whomever has posted in this thread aren't the only ones reading it. So, if you don't think what I am saying is of value, maybe another beginner reading this will take something positive away they can apply to their garden. Which is the reason I have persisted in your thread, 'cause yer pretty close minded on the pot size thang ... - I appreciate the input and I also stated I was close minded on the pot thing.

Toodles ...

...

 

[Cat Jockey]

for the 4th time, not real interested in repotting them into smaller containers

You expressed, more than once, about how concerned you were about stressing your autoflowers and losing any precious growing time. So, you need to make up yer mind - are you interested in perserving all of that growing time, or are you not. 'Cause if you ain't interested in repotting, you are not really, at all, overly concerned, one bit with achieving maximum growth and harvest.

But you said you were, so I'm confused. You expressed a desire, I told you what you needed to do to achieve that desire (repotting is step one for the FASTEST way to recover what you have done to those seedlings), you don't like what I told you, so now you have changed your mind on what you desire outta this grow?

I just took what you said, provided you the solution to achieve that objective, you, a new grower who hasn't even made it out of the seedling stage without problems, than proceeded to lecture an expert on about why the advice I proffered was actually a BAD THING for autoflowers. That I was wrong and giving you bad advice for autoflowers. That doesn't offend me, but I obviously don't have a problem sticking around a thread after being called wrong, to defend my position ESPECIALLy when NOT DOING SO will allow bullshit, incorrect, Internet Echo Chamber growing info to be put forwad and unchallenged, as I don't want some other new grower, maybe one of the 500 or so that has clicked on this thread to believe that bullshit, like you did. 'Cause if they believe that bullshit, they will have more problems their entire grow due to salt build up and will harvest less bud of a lesser quality. ANd I don't care if you find it on a 'breeders' website. Most of those guys are pollen chuckin' Seeders in it for the cash, not breeders or master weed farmers.

Get it? You're all stressed the fuck out about your plants, and following my advice will alleviate that stress, booyah. You don't get that a big problem your girls are showing you are the extra lime in the mix, and the shit you have already poured into the rootzone. It ain't just about repotting - you need to understand that yer fuggin' grow is in jeopardy, buddy, over this pot size, limed up mix, pouring too much shit too soon. I won't say entirely doomed, but you are going the wrong way - fast.

And not just because of what you have already done, but what you are now, as a result of all these suggestions in this thread, thinking about doing.

Like trying to salavage that mix by trying to run 12 gallons of water, at least, through those pots in a true flush. Like trying your hardest to find a N or Ca problem so you can pour more shit on them. And really fuggin' kill 'em for good.

You see, all of that advice you've gotten in this thread that you are comparing ain't all equal. Some of that shit is bad, and will fuck up or kill your girls - yet you seem to be placing equal value on it all, all jazzed up some chick, the 'lovely lady', commented in your thread.

I know it makes me sound like a dick, but I am just being blunt. 'Cause unlike the majority of advice you'll get in any Infirmary thread, the shit that comes off of my keyboard comes from an expert grower that has grown thousands of MJ plants in just about every system ...

Your grow is in jeopardy, bro, and if you follow some of the advice given yer gonna flat-out fuckin' kill your plants (no personal offense to anyone - there is no shame or embarrassment to being new, or relatively new to this). And now you got a pH meter comin'. Oh, brother. It's pretty clear you got one 'o dem itchy trigger finger on the nutes. You're gonna keep fiddlin' and fuckin' with them over the next few days and risk killing 'em.

Now, wtf do I care about any of this? 'Cause I am very, very concerned about accurate info being passed around on the weed forums. And that process has taken several hard blows in the last several years. The loss of communities like OG and PlanetGanja, and all the experts that disappeared of the net with those two servers, and the wave of newgrowers after medical blew up, which has led to a gluttony of med growers (I love ya all) that have harvested 20 plants in two years off of 4 grows and think they are experts. And I don't care, except I have witnessed what has happened with the information and accepted facts on certain things in that time.

And there are mudder fuggers sittin' jail, or have been a PoW in the WoD who have been contributors to the collective internet information on mj farming. And I owe to my fallen comrades in this war to make sure the information put out, championed, regurgitated by beginners and intermediates in Infirmary threads is as accurate as possible.

Most of you have no idea of the heritage and evolution of this thing that is the collective mj growing community. But I do. I gots me fallen brothers that have spent time trying to not get ass-raped so that brand new growers, like you and some of the posters in this thread, have a resource to come to learn.

And feel free to think me a douche, booyah, but I, on a personal level, am very concerned about accurate information about this stuff for all of that above, as well as the very simple fact is that the more people that can harvest the most quality bud for their space, the less mudder fuggers get their mother fuckin' heads chopped off, over smuggling marijuana in on the Black Market.

The more digity dank grown in the US, the less mother fuckin' heads rollin' in the street. For real. So, yea, think I'm a dick about in your thread, but I take Sweet Lady Jane farming pretty seriously.

And ya know what booyah? I don't mind admitting to being a little irritable, in general, the last couple of days here, after a couple of the sigs I have come across. Mudder fuggers who gave out all they knew, free of charge and demands and crying, spent time holdin' on to that bar of soap real fuggin' tight, so people today could learn, and then be all snooty and shit about ttrying to help and share that knowledge they got from predesessors. And I don't spell check. And that ain't got nuttin to do with you.

So, for the very last time (I am pretty sure I'm done now - I got other shit to do anyway), don't grow seedling out from the get go in a four gallon pot. Follow my advise. Someone's mom will thank you for their son's head not getting chopped off, 'cause there was one less ounce of weed crossing the border, cause yer girls lived ...

 

[boooyah]

wow.. so from all that I gather your blaming the added lime for causing the problems I am seeing. Interesting way of saying it

 

[boooyah]

I still find it interesting that the narcotherapy and the white widow are happy and green as can be.