tenthirty
Member
The Cree cob leds look really tasty. It's starting to look like we may be building some more HML's real soon, with the latest technology of course.
-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
Building a Home Made LED
- Thread starter tenthirty
- Start date
The Cree cob leds look really tasty. It's starting to look like we may be building some more HML's real soon, with the latest technology of course.
I have 2 Cree cobs Im going to be using next round. The light output from such a small thing is amazing lol. Im only running my cxa3070s at 1400mA and they are damn bright.
I need some help here. So i bought one http://goo.gl/JtmGrj 100w led, for a one plant experiment, but now i am confused. I know i need heatsink, wires and some kind of driver.
Is this driver suitable? http://goo.gl/XJC09u
Is this driver suitable? http://goo.gl/XJC09u
Your led has the following voltage:
◦DC Forward Voltage(VF): 30~34Vdc
The driver you linked has a 12V voltage, so it is not suitable.
This is what you need:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-30V-34...ing_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item3cdfb4db5b
You also need 1 suitable heatsink and thermal glue/paste.
◦DC Forward Voltage(VF): 30~34Vdc
The driver you linked has a 12V voltage, so it is not suitable.
This is what you need:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-30V-34...ing_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item3cdfb4db5b
You also need 1 suitable heatsink and thermal glue/paste.
I am in great anticipation of the arrival of 2 BMLHorticulture 3ft light bars
I am not equipped to do a ground up DIY, but BML lets the buyer select their own spectrums via a very sophisticated real time template
I mixed ~95% 3000/2700 then tossed in 2 @ 450 and 3 @ 660 per bar
Come by to watch the show, which is already awesome.
All plants were vegged under 2 WHITE ufo 90s (5000/3500).
Due to explosive growth, last week I had to move the 2 biggest upstairs under 432w hot5, but have a BML Spyder 600 on order
They will be 30 days from rooted seedling tomorrow
LED
View attachment 263437 View attachment 263438
I am not equipped to do a ground up DIY, but BML lets the buyer select their own spectrums via a very sophisticated real time template
I mixed ~95% 3000/2700 then tossed in 2 @ 450 and 3 @ 660 per bar
Come by to watch the show, which is already awesome.
All plants were vegged under 2 WHITE ufo 90s (5000/3500).
Due to explosive growth, last week I had to move the 2 biggest upstairs under 432w hot5, but have a BML Spyder 600 on order
They will be 30 days from rooted seedling tomorrow
LED
View attachment 263437 View attachment 263438
And of course i forgot the pictures.. here we go!
http://www.anony.ws/image/kiU2
http://www.anony.ws/image/kiUr
http://www.anony.ws/image/kiUc
http://www.anony.ws/image/kiU2
http://www.anony.ws/image/kiUr
http://www.anony.ws/image/kiUc
you may need to be more specific about which 1 chip 100w LED you're using
however, lacking info on how much heat the hs depicted is suited to; even that info might not give your definitive answer.
personally, i would wire that hummer up & take my chances {an active hs like that pulls off significant heat compared to what LEDs produce} IOW, i tend to think it probably would be adequate & worst case would mean a shorter than possible life expectancy for your diode {lacking the quantified data, you can;t get there from here though}
there's people using cpu hs for cree cob LEDs though
however, lacking info on how much heat the hs depicted is suited to; even that info might not give your definitive answer.
personally, i would wire that hummer up & take my chances {an active hs like that pulls off significant heat compared to what LEDs produce} IOW, i tend to think it probably would be adequate & worst case would mean a shorter than possible life expectancy for your diode {lacking the quantified data, you can;t get there from here though}
there's people using cpu hs for cree cob LEDs though
That's one of those liquid cooled jobs.
As long as that fan is turning, it should be sufficient.
Lacking an IR thermometer, you can turn down the current adjustment on the driver and test the temperature with your finger.
Running cool?
Turn it up a little, wait an hour and feel it again.
If it's still cool enough to hold your finger on the side of the HS after full power for one hour.
Lock it down.
Aloha,
Weeze
As long as that fan is turning, it should be sufficient.
Lacking an IR thermometer, you can turn down the current adjustment on the driver and test the temperature with your finger.
Running cool?
Turn it up a little, wait an hour and feel it again.
If it's still cool enough to hold your finger on the side of the HS after full power for one hour.
Lock it down.
Aloha,
Weeze
morgandecaptain
Active member
Very nice work !
Can we ask for pics with this modules running ?
What type of driver did you use ?
What was the entire cost for a single module ( including LED, driver, heatsink and fan) ?
How warm is the heatsink ? Can you measure the temperature on the Tc point of the LEDs and share the results ?
I know there are to many questions, but my next LED project is quite similar - I intend to use 9 CXA to cover a 3x3 area, and I to gather as much information as possible.
Superior design and execution!
Allow me a suggestion.
If you put a thermal switch in series with the fan, and bolt it to the 'sink, the light will torque a bit when it kicks on and off.
Think about what that implies for an indoor grow.
Mine trips at ~110 degrees F. and cools it back down to ~90
Cycles are influenced by the ambient temps, of course, but, on average, it's ~30 seconds.
The power saving isn't much, but moving the shadows?
Priceless.
Aloha, and good job!
Weeze
morgandecaptain
Active member
morgandecaptain
Active member
Thanks BT,always glad to see a friendly faceNice to see you on ICMAG Captain. The modules are kick ass.
Very nice work !
Can we ask for pics with this modules running ?
What type of driver did you use ?
What was the entire cost for a single module ( including LED, driver, heatsink and fan) ?
How warm is the heatsink ? Can you measure the temperature on the Tc point of the LEDs and share the results ?
I know there are to many questions, but my next LED project is quite similar - I intend to use 9 CXA to cover a 3x3 area, and I to gather as much information as possible.
I have each as separate unit with it's own driver and used Meanwell LPC-60-1400 drivers.
It's under $100 with all the odds and ends each.
I don't have a IR thermometer but I can put my finger on the heatsink next to the COB and can't feel any heat,the coolers are rated to handle up to 100 watts.
I think you may get the job done with 6 or less if you drive them like mine,what bin are yours?
Superior design and execution!
Allow me a suggestion.
If you put a thermal switch in series with the fan, and bolt it to the 'sink, the light will torque a bit when it kicks on and off.
Think about what that implies for an indoor grow.
Mine trips at ~110 degrees F. and cools it back down to ~90
Cycles are influenced by the ambient temps, of course, but, on average, it's ~30 seconds.
The power saving isn't much, but moving the shadows?
Priceless.
Aloha, and good job!
Weeze
Thanks for the input Weeze,it's pretty basic to start.
gusgusthegrate
Member
my supplies i purchased
4- 60w cree xlamp cob (they say 24-28v)
heatsink
24v 240w 10amp led driver
my question is will i need any resistors in my set up if i use a led driver? and am i better off hooking in series or parallel?
4- 60w cree xlamp cob (they say 24-28v)
heatsink
24v 240w 10amp led driver
my question is will i need any resistors in my set up if i use a led driver? and am i better off hooking in series or parallel?
gusgusthegrate
Member
that was my first post... i normally lurk in the shadows. thanks in advance if anyone can help me.
