AACT questions

[GreenStarGrower]

I am a new grower, I moved to Colorado in 2012 to learn how to grow quality medical grade cannabis. I have spent many hours reading and researching about organics, and I have a very basic understanding of the subject.

Right now I am using Happy Frog soil from Fox Farm and brewing teas that I feed weekly. These are my recipes:

Vegg: 5 gal R/O water
1 Tbs seabird guano (7-7-2)
1Tbs Mexican bat (10-1-1)
1Tbs EWC
4Tbs Hi-Brix Molasses
4 tsp AgeOld liquid Kelp

Bloom: 5 gal R/O water
1Tbs seabird guano (7-7-2)
1Tbs Indonesian bat (.5-13-.2)
1 Tbs EWC
4 tbs Hi-Brix molasses
4 tsp AgeOld liquid kelp

I put all solid ingredients into a knee high stocking and hang in a 5 gallon bucket with a 6" airdisc at the bottom. Liquid ingredients are added and the whole tea brews for 24-32 hours. I do not dilute this mixture I feed it straight to the plants once a week. I water 2 more times each week with plain water (vegg) or sugar water (bloom). My watering cycle is:
M- Teas
W- Water/ sugar water
F- Water/ sugar water
some plants get a light water on sunday to keep them from drying out too much

It is my understanding that this tea will re-inoculate the microherd in my soil each week.

Question #1: Does the bat guano add microbial life to the tea, or is it more of a food for the microbes in the EWC?

Question #2: If the role of the microbial life is to convert nutrients in the soil to a form that can be used by the plant, do I need to be adding these nutrients to the soil? Since the Happy Frog only has Mycos and Humics, should I be adding some type of NPK+Mg so that the microbes have something to convert??

I feel like I'm making this way harder than is should be, but my plants look beautiful until week 4 of flower and then they very quickly turn yellow and leaves start dying off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[whiteberrieS]

http://www.simplici-tea.com/nutrientpack.htm

I'm on my first run with it. They say it'll last 6 months in 4 cu. ft. so we'll see. Other than the gnats I'm lovin it like MacDonald's. Haha I should put a disclaimer: Beware the gnats. Seriously though, the plants seem to love it but buy some Gnatrol or spinosad too.

I'm at about 4wks right now...been watering with basic EWC/molasses AACT...My mix is 4 cu ft coco w/ 5gal of EWC and one of those nute packs:

edit: I forgot you're still in the planning stage haha check out beneficial nematodes...they eat the gnat larvae in the soil so if you mix em into your soil when you mix the nutrient pack in you shouldn't have to deal with the gnats so much.

 

[Granger2]

First, when you make these teas, I'd strongly suggest that you use a cup of EWC, rather than a Tbl.

Second, when you get into bloom, feed more often. Once a week is pretty lean. Maybe replace one of the waterings with an Age Old bloom feed to their recommendation. Kick up the Hi-Brix for the K in it, to like 7 Tbl in 5 gal. Having a btl of Earth Juice Microblast on hand and using it once a week is good, and if you still get symptoms of trace def, use it more often. But don't brew it. Add it just before app. The iron can fall out of solution during brew. Good luck. -granger

 

[Coba]

An AACT should look like this for 5 gal of water

1-2 Cups compost (or vermicompost)
1-2 Tbs Molasses

brew for 36-40 hrs ...

 

[GreenStarGrower]

Looks good man, might have to try it.. I added a top dressing of EWC and bat guano last night and I'll be watering over it with Tea tonight so we'll see how that helps.

 

[xmobotx]

+1 Coba ~that's all you need

 

[Coba]

GreenStarGrower, that's what I would do, save the guano and the minerals for the soil.

as far as microbial elements in the guano ... i read a guano MSDS once. It advises to not inhale the dust particulate because of a fungus that causes Histoplasmosis (also known as "Cave disease,"[1] "Darling's disease,"[1] "Ohio valley disease,"[1] "Reticuloendotheliosis,"[1] "Spelunker’s Lung" and "Caver's disease") a disease caused by the fungus Histoplasma capsulatum.

I'm not sure about any beneficial types of microbes, at least for our practical application.

 

[bigshrimp]

I'm running 2 cups vermicompost and 1/4 cup molasses per five gallons of water

 

[Photosynthesis]

3 cups of compost mix in a 5 gallon brew here. Feed twice weekly in flower, and you won't regret it.

With the proper soil, and foliar feeding you should NEVER, EVER get a deficiency period.

That's what is so great about organics done right.

 

[Granger2]

I've stopped using guano indoors so I don't breathe the dust for above reasons. I would use fossilized guano though if I saw the need.

Let's not forget Greenstar's current situation. By now, the nutes that the Happy Frog came with are depleted. To complete the crop, you need to add nutes.

You can do it in different ways. You can top dress, and use ACT. You can brew your nutes. You can use liquid nutes. Take your pick, but your plants will need more than they're getting. I would not abandon ACT. It's a plus for any regime.

Next run, you might want to go a different way. Possibly a ROLS would be to your liking. Lotsa info on this site, recipe's etc. Most recipes need at least a month lead time for the mix to cook. Good luck. -granger

 

[Coba]

it seems like mine yellow faster in smaller pots .

 

[Granger2]

Logically, it would be that way. Less medium, less nutes. If they are yellowing between feeds, the plants are telling you to feed more often. Good luck. -granger

 

[GreenStarGrower]

That could be another reason, I tried moving down to #2 smartpots for space reasons. I feel like there's just not enough soil for the size that my plants are. Thank you all for your input and advice. I will be making some changes before my next run!

 

[xmobotx]

organics is "feed the soil not the plant" ~that's part of the problem when considering AACT as something which involves providing nutrient amendments

when you feed soluble nutes, it's not far removed from conventional salt ferts. True organics works best w/ less soluble amendments & more emphasis on humic inputs and the soil food web. {e.g. fungal, bacterial} the next thing to think about is hormones, auxins, PGRs, enzymes ~LAST {if ever} is NPK

 

[Kozmo]

No molasses on hand. I could use honey right? Nice organic honey in the same ratio's? Honey is used as a antibacterial agent. Kinda goes in the opposite direction we would desire.

 

[Mikell]

It isn't preferable, but if you are going to use it add before you bubble off chlorine and any peroxide will dissipate at the same time.

 

[TheyCallMeJJay]

No molasses on hand. I could use honey right? Nice organic honey in the same ratio's?

Amazon in your friend. In a pinch, you can use some grocery brand molasses. All Grocery stores will carry it.

 

[TheyCallMeJJay]

organics is "feed the soil not the plant" ~that's part of the problem when considering AACT as something which involves providing nutrient amendments

when you feed soluble nutes, it's not far removed from conventional salt ferts. True organics works best w/ less soluble amendments & more emphasis on humic inputs and the soil food web. {e.g. fungal, bacterial} the next thing to think about is hormones, auxins, PGRs, enzymes ~LAST {if ever} is NPK

This. Focus on your roots and soil and the rest will take care of itself.

 

[Kozmo]

Thank you, I also finding out how honey is used as a antibacterial agent. So that's counterproductive.

 

[Microbeman]

Black strap cane molasses with no added sulfur is your best choice. I also avoid the brands which are specific to horticulture which have phosphoric acid added. This is not necessary in molasses, as it is in fish hydrolysate.

The stuff from the grocery store is just fine, so long as it is genuine black strap molasses, not 'fancy', 'cooking' or 'light' molasses.

http://www.crosbys.com/wp-content/themes/crosbys/pdf/Specification_Blackstrap_2011.pdf

You may be able to order 5 gallon pails through your local grocery store. I have done this, usually paying under $25.

Presently we purchase it at the livestock supply. I had them contact the manufacturer to ensure it was pure cane molasses, not made from beets and that it has no preservatives or anti-microbials added.
We have stored these pails for a year without it going bad. Sometimes if exposed to the air too much some yeast cells may find their way in but this is not an issue.

Damn; I bit again. Another old post dug up for a question answered in other old posts.