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big plant ppk

Grow4Flow

Member
Sqydro,
the point of the float valve contraption being inside another container inside of the res is to control or restrict how fast the rez will top off from the main water supply

When the feed pump turns on, the water in your feed rez is delivered to each of the modules almost emptying your rez containing the nutrient, while waiting for the nutrient to drain from said modules and return to the rez back to it's beginning volume the float valve opens allowing water from you main water source to top off the rez.

If you remember the discussions of the "Air Gap", it is important to maintain that specified space between the surface of the water in the lower bucket and the bottom of the tub in each module. If the water from your main water source is allowed to top off the rez unrestricted, or too fast, then there will be too much water replacing that which is still draining from the modules on it's way back to the rez.

The end result is greater volume than desired in the rez, thus raising the water level and decreasing the "Air gap" that we are trying to maintain. So, the container inside the rez with the drilled holes and float valve is really just slowing the flow of water topping the rez during a feed because we cannot control the speed at which the water is flowing from the float valve itself.

hope this helps. I was in the same boat not so long ago, so many great people here willing to help.
 

Sqydro

Member
yeah makes perfect sense now mate, thanks for the explanation i never thought the pulse would empty the whole res, so our container with float valve must be limited to what it can release per pulse...

what way do you determine this just trial and error?

thanks again for taking the time mate
 

Grow4Flow

Member
Whether your rez is nearly empty during the pulse is dependent on your rez size and the amount of modules you are feeding, i was using my configuration as an example.

for example, my nutrient rez is an 18 gal brute bin, but to maintain the 3" air gap the volume of my rez is is approximately 13gal.

I use 3 modules, each with 7 gal tub for the media. During the pulse, i flood til the nutrient is about 1/2" above the media which takes about 3 gal of nutrient to fill. now i am 9 gal less in the rez for almost a minute while waiting for the drain leaving only 4 gals in the rez.

in that time that could mean a lot of extra water topping off from an unrestricted float valve.
 

flat9

Member
There's an easier solution (though one that may make some feel uncomfortable) for putting the float valve inside another smaller container with a small hole drilled inside. I skipped that entirely, and just used a ball valve inside my supply res and kept it barely open. As I put it on the inside, no chance anything will bump into it, and just have to remember when I refill the supply res to make sure to not mess w/ the ball valve's positioning.
 

Sqydro

Member
yeah il do that now, theres a ton of diff brands il have a look through item description for calcinated clay then, snook said its needs a pouricity of about 30% retention so will only buy 1 bag and test it 1st time round
 

Sqydro

Member
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/420901/absorbent-granules

ok here we have a decent few that say clay granules. im going to order the 1st bag on the list as soon as someone says to do so thenks for the help g4f

picture.php


description is: Solent? Clay Absorbent Granules

These traditional absorbent clay granules absorb oil, water and most other fluids. Non-toxic, chemically inert. 20ltrs.


looks pretty much the same
 

Sqydro

Member
also i dont have acess to jacks for nutes, il prob test run it with ionic a simole 1 part hydro cheap and works well (what heath uses for his trees) ive used it in rdwc with 0 deficiancys unless anyone can suggest different? i dont buy into nute hype i see these people with 3 parts and 18 diff additives and think what a waste of money and time but each to there own of course
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran


Trunk shot taken @ 25 days and canopy taken @ 26 days, 5 hours from the moment of germination.

Photos originally taken for personal documentation purposes, because of my poor photography equipment, or lack there of - Iphone 4 - but I'd like to add some photos to this lacking thread, and to say thanks!

I'm embarrassed by the lack of pruning, but I'm torn as to when and where to ensure greater efficiency and minimal stress. So I'll sacrifice yield and dominant buds to ensure appropriate learning of my plant and what they want. I can see myself taking it too far, hah
 

farmari

Member
also i dont have acess to jacks for nutes, il prob test run it with ionic a simole 1 part hydro cheap and works well (what heath uses for his trees) ive used it in rdwc with 0 deficiancys unless anyone can suggest different? i dont buy into nute hype i see these people with 3 parts and 18 diff additives and think what a waste of money and time but each to there own of course

I used Ionic for a long time with RDWC and then coco PPKs with no additives and have been happy with it. Very simple, effective, and PH stable. When I was using the common GH micro+bloom formula I had less healthy looking plants and bad PH instability, relatively speaking.

I'm embarrassed by the lack of pruning, but I'm torn as to when and where to ensure greater efficiency and minimal stress. So I'll sacrifice yield and dominant buds to ensure appropriate learning of my plant and what they want. I can see myself taking it too far, hah

Time and time again I make the mistake of being too conservative with pruning, ends up biting me. Any leaf not getting direct light is wasting the plant's energy and preventing it from growing more quickly. Unpruned indicas can basically stall in growth when they're 3ft diameter bushes because of this. Pruned plants grow fast!
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Damn't, farmari...well, now I'm going downstairs to prune...haha. I need to.

4 days prior to flip seems reasonable, these girls are so vigorous they will quickly rebound.
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=52356&pictureid=1230541&thumb=1]View Image[/URL] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=52356&pictureid=1230749&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]

Trunk shot taken @ 25 days and canopy taken @ 26 days, 5 hours from the moment of germination.

Photos originally taken for personal documentation purposes, because of my poor photography equipment, or lack there of - Iphone 4 - but I'd like to add some photos to this lacking thread, and to say thanks!

I'm embarrassed by the lack of pruning, but I'm torn as to when and where to ensure greater efficiency and minimal stress. So I'll sacrifice yield and dominant buds to ensure appropriate learning of my plant and what they want. I can see myself taking it too far, hah

Got mad respect for your journal/documenting skills,TerpeneTom...
Awesome read...

I've got a few trunk shots for y'all...


This is the worlds largest Wide pot PPK... lol
Pure Turface-Full floods every 90 minutes 24/7 with jacks combo feed..

It has 8 wicks and has not had a flood in almost 10 days yet the clones still in the pools show no sing of issue...

I just today pulled the last plant from this pool and it also showed no sign of drying out...














 

Grow4Flow

Member
Damn't, farmari...well, now I'm going downstairs to prune...haha. I need to.

4 days prior to flip seems reasonable, these girls are so vigorous they will quickly rebound.


I can attest to the difference it makes, I do my pruning in week 2 and 4 of flower (Mid & post stretch). skirting redirects the auxins allowing for heavier top growth
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hydroponic literature I am currently reading suggests "nutrient solution should rise to within about one inch of the surface of the aggregate" (Hydroponic Food Production). Reason: "This practice keeps the aggregate surface dry, preventing the growth of algae, reduces water loss, and humidity build up at the base of the plants. It also prevents the growth of roots into the surface inch of the aggregate, which, under coniditions of high light intensities, may become too high in temperature for satisfactory root growth"

So, it appears that it would be advantageous to implement an overflow pipe 1" from the surface which would drain into the reservoir bucket, and would not require an individual to constantly regulate the flow of each site, confident all flood to the ideal level.

Thoughts?
 

Grow4Flow

Member
To be honest, we've already seen what it does currently for numerous PPKers, "if it ain't broke".............


There may be improvements that could be done, but I don't want to try anything else yet
 

Sqydro

Member
yeah d9s done years n year n years of documented trial and error on all mediums/methods feeding schedules light cycles the guy litterly gave up 5 years of his life to make the PPKs and made it perfect for what it is

g4f 'if it aint broke...' is right

to the guys that followed d9s when he was in his prime PPK wise what was he pulling on average per plant? i know he had a sick PB as well but cant remember off top of my head
 
He said his wife would call him a loser if he got less then a pound per plant.....d9 has changed my life with what he has taught me ,blessings and love to all ppk ers
 

JointOperation

Active member
I can attest to the difference it makes, I do my pruning in week 2 and 4 of flower (Mid & post stretch). skirting redirects the auxins allowing for heavier top growth


do the exact same thing.. i prune right after stretch.. and then again at week 4-6 depending on how long they go. and my yields have increased since i started doing this.. im seeing alot bigger buds.. alot farther away from the light then i used to .

but it should be said.. if your plants arent healthy.. pruning can reduce your yields.. and also.. if u dont know what your doing.. u can fuck up your yields also..
 

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