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big plant ppk

Grow4Flow

Member
flat9,
here is the feed setup, each is connected to the same 1/2" PVC going back to the 350gph mag drive pump in the res. I also have a 250gph in the res on a timer to mix for 15 mins every couple of hours so nothing settles on the bottom...
photo1_zps70e8b271.jpg

photo2_zpsbe35b6d6.jpg

photo3_zpsd950527e.jpg


you can see the two 3/4" return lines to the right of the third image attached to the res via 3/4" bulk head/drain fittings. When the feed pump comes on, it is kind of sucking the water from buckets.
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hello.

After administering ~1ml PH Up into main reservoir (raising from 5.4 to 6.1), Pulse occurred and the total PH now ~5.5. Again dosing 1ml PH up to raise to 6.1. (This excessive input of alkali is advised against, tarnishing the purity of the solvent). Two hours later: PH has DRASTICALLY DROPPED - from 6.1 to 5.0 - This has to do with the identified light leak from installing a reservoir that has an exterior that is penetrable by light. Because I ran these units for a week prior to transplant and the PH was steady @ 5.8, so the medium is not the culprit. I have stopped the light leak, input ~1tsp 35% H202 and purchased an aquarium filter which will arrive tomorrow.

I thought momentarily that too much C02 was being taken into the H20 (via the pulse, ~1,000 ppm) and forming carbonic acid, but I ceased use and the C02 in still falling drastically.

It can't be the residue from the Turface, I know that.

I am using R/O water, and as mentioned, prior to transplanting the plants, the reservoir maintained 5.8 PH the entire week while being pulsed. So I also doubt that algae would now be forming on the surface of the units, as that would have occured earlier.

Is it possible that algae could do this? There was a light leak. How long does this algae last? Does H202 destroy?

I have a Journal going that details all my parameters.

Thanks!

Nice job, Grow4FLow!

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I have Input 1.5 ml PH Up ~2 hours ago = 5.8 PH. ~1.5 hours past: 4.9 PH.[/FONT] This is mixed within the external reservoir, which holds ~11 gallons total, but I have input ~16 ml General Hydroponics PH Up over the last 5 days and still see drastic drops.

I JUST checked the reservoir after equilibrium was achieved and the resulting Ph: 5.2 (the external reservoir was PH'd to 5.8 w/ ~1 ml PH Up, I have been doing this for the past few days). The water is reacting with something, and I'm beginning to confirm that the H20 is reacting with the C02 and forming Carbonic acid.

I am going to quit pulsing the individual sites now and see if the PH changes drastically within the external reservoir. It seems the issue is when the water is being pulsed, and then the water reaches equilibrium and PH is again very low.
-I turned off the cycle timer and PH'd the external reservoir to 5.8 (from 5.2, with ~1 ml General Hydroponics PH Up), now I will wait and see if the PH drops within the external reservoir in about 2 hours
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The PH in the external reservoir has remained STEADY at 6.0 PH after 1 hour 45 minutes. I have not flooded the system. So this seems to rule out the possibility of algae.

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Further Test: Added 2 gallons of R/O water to dilute the nutrient concentration. Flooded. Post Flood: 5.3 PH. Now, I will allow the mixture to settle for at an hour before I test PH again. If the solution drops, then... If the solution doesn't drop?[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]

So, there is some interaction which is causing this steep decline post flood.

Is something happening within the individual reservoirs? Or is it within the media?

Could the plants, even within the seedling stage alter the PH that much?
 

flat9

Member
Make sure to calibrate your pH meters boys and girls. Often times I thought 3 scoops Jacks to 2 scoops Calcinit in about 25 gal was not quite working the way it was supposed to in terms of pH, only to find that my meter wasn't calibrated. Literally it comes out to about 5.7-5.9 pH and 1.2-1.3 EC each time w/ my tap at 0.1 EC and 8.0 pH. I'm lucky to have rather good water, but still, Jacks is supposed to be super stable...
 

Grow4Flow

Member
TT,
i wouldn't worry about the PH level, let it ride and do it's thing, it will straighten out in a few days. Ignoring the PH was really hard for me as i mostly ran aeroponics and it was extremely important, now all i do is mix the Jacks in a jar, fill the res with RO water, dump the contents of the jar in the res and let it do its own thing. I repeat this process every 3 weeks.

Remember, there is water just sitting in the lower buckets of the module, so while you are adjusting the res PH, when the feed pump turns on it all changes, Let it all catch up and mix for a few days or you will be chasing your own tail
 

forkup

Member
I agree with Grow4Flow as did D9. My ph was very low, in the 4s when I first started ppking (new verb?). D9 advised me to ignore it and not try to correct. I followed his advice which was spot on as usual. Don't stress the reservoir, trust in the Jacks to do it's job.

Nice setup and nice looking girls Grow4Flow. I hope you're able to spread them apart more else they will be all over each other in a lesbian duet :D

Edit: Btw AlienDawg I just completed building a new pool design I hope to showcase shortly :)
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Thanks, everyone.

I read that the recommended PH range per the manufacturer = 6.0-6.2.

Underlying problem: the operator. What a "relief". I have read the entire thread, and have progressed through ~40% of the original posting - I must reevaluate my focus.

Grow4Flow, I notice the dry residue accumulating on your equipment within the reservoir, as well as mucky water; I am utilizing an aquarium filter for the first few days/weeks to truly clean out all the debris. It is working excellently - only cost $8 and filter is washable. The particles may cause no problems, but the pristine water look nice. This is also nice if you do not want to truly clean all the debris by hand, you can just run the system prior to transplant and the filter will do the work (to an extent), although at a slight cost.

Thinking of you, d9.

Sincerely,

stranger
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Just purchased a boat ruler (adhesive + waterproof) for the wall of my new reservoir.

Recommended for anyone serious about controlling and documenting the reservoir level.
 

Snook

Still Learning
Veteran
I calibrate and use my ph meter about once a year to check ????? I forget. with an initial 600 ppm mix of Jks+Calnit, ph, as I remember, goes about 4.8 in the volume rez.. don't pay any attention to it. this is not areo or DWC.

as long as you mix to the 1 to .62 jacks to calcium, ph takes care of itself. no additives of any kind. change the formula to include some 'snake oil' (hey D9) and all bets are off.

it is very simple once you've gained the confidence of 'his' theories and protocals. don't over think it or listen to anyone growing differently..

by the way, TT, I thought about mixing the juice in the rezs' and do have a pump (water) in the volume rez and have never used it. don't know why just didn't. the jacks+ mix does not 'settle', precipitate I think its called.. where as one does have to worry bout that when mixing N with P with K liquids in a DWC or E&F type grow.
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I pursued the incorrect variable. Upon evaluation of the unifoliate, I determined that an deficiency developed. Following the law of minimum, I analyzed all the current conditions. The first warning came from my external reservoir, noticing that too much light was penetrating the material. Therefore, I concluded algae must be responsible, as the H20 had been exposed for ~3 days, ample time for colonization. Immediately I checked PH (as well as identifying an aroma), knowing the consequence of Algae within your solution, and as you mention: very low. I understand that algae (brown algae) can lower PH. I quickly input ~ 4 ml 35% H202, and ~1.5 ml PH Up.
In short, the EC was too high. The rockwool which I sowed within, was charged at 250PPM, then raised to 300 PPM prior to transplant. The plants flourished with this concentration, expressing no visible signs of deficiency; they were growing much faster than typically observed. They all had visible, profuse root development outside the medium, as well as developed unifoliate and developing trifoliate. Therefore I concluded the higher concentration, paired with increased intensity (~800 Umol), 1,000 PPM C02, and 70% RH would encourage rapid growth and adaptation. I recall literature stating such EC is acceptable given ideal parameters and a healthy seedling (although now I know how cultivar dependent this is).
 

Sqydro

Member
theres 0 turface available in the UK unless its called something else, think il need to go 80/20 coco/perlite or 80/20 coco/clayballs with a solid coco wick

i just need to make sure it drains pretty decent for the pulse feeds right?
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
theres 0 turface available in the UK unless its called something else, think il need to go 80/20 coco/perlite or 80/20 coco/clayballs with a solid coco wick

i just need to make sure it drains pretty decent for the pulse feeds right?

I'm doing coco/coco chips/floor dry mixed in ppk's right now. You definitely want something similar in consistency to chow mix (80/20 hydrotron/coco, or even 80/20 perlite/coco would work). Whatever you choose make sure it has exceptional drainage, and get a cycle timer that is adjustable in second increments. That allows you to adjust flood/pulse times to your chosen media needs :tiphat:.
 

hotboxes

Member
I have noticed that since I am using fine coco and perlite that I don't have to pulse as often. As of late I have been pulsing for 40 seconds every 1-1/2 hours, I have found that if I go any longer or shorter amount of time between pluses that my trays flood over into the tent. So having a faster draining medium would defiantly help but if you have to use fine coco like me a.good saturation pulse every hour or so imo is just as good as a flood every 45 min.-1hr. Imo coco holds more food for a longer period of time so there is no need to pulse any more than once every hour and a half to two hours. So far so good.
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I believe there is a greater benefit to flooding more frequently besides moisture profile. Such as nutrient availability (flushing and access to non mobile nutrients), and potential biological reactions of the root zone to the flood (not sure what, but I know d9 mentioned a "massage"), much like rainfall.

This is why Turface was selected as the superior medium I believe? Still have not read the entire original thread. Allowing for quicker drainage, porosity, therefore creating a setting for more pulses and 02 availability.
 

catman

half cat half man half baked
Veteran
You guys really should try a "handwatered PPK bucket" to compare with your pump fed plants. Try filling the bucket with various mediums and record how much water you can fill with a scale...Turface is a good medium for many reasons. It's pH works nicely with how Jack's self-stabilizes like Snook is saying. It does not float like perlite. Roots have an intimate relationship with their soil and it's important they not be disrupted during waterings. Turface has a good CEC so it can hold nutrients. It's absorbent properties create a good moisture profile. Roots easily separate from the medium allowing for better transplanting.

The sound of water running through Turface is very soothing. It sounds like how I imagine a rain forest would. I'm not convinced that growing plants in such an environment is advantageous, but it is novel.
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Catman, this has been done by the creator. d9 concluded Turface as the greatest media, and the pump to provide the greatest benefit.

Go read the original thread as I was advised to and you will understand why the conclusion was made.
 

Sqydro

Member
i see coco guys using 5 x feeds per 12 hours lights on, in DTW systems such as HGOs and the coco in the uk is quite fibrous and loose so i think il attempt the 80/20 coco clay ball mix with a coco wick ftw

i really cant find anything like turface here in the UK :/

can only piss with the cock youve got i suppose
 

Sqydro

Member
delivery to US only mate its probabaly called something different here you USA maniacs be messing names up alot ;)

what is its purpose, floor cleaner i beleive? is it the kind that soaks up spillages etc? or am i way off?
 
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