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any kiss users have exp. with veg+bloom

Twisted pleasur

Active member
Veteran
So the dirty can it sit in a rez for a week to be used dtw? or do you have to use it right away? I only bubble my rez as they sit and I dont want a BioFilm mess?

What about +life and +size? will they sit?

I know about the up swing I might be able to work with that but as I said Im worried about biofilm or sludge...or generally going bad...

thanks guys I just read the whole thread sense 10pm last night. Wat a mess with all the BS...so much wasted energy on arguing. I see something I like I give it a go. If it works great if it doesn't I move on. Can only control yourself not others. Not worth the time in my book...
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
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I use the standard RO formulation, and never swap out the reservoir (blumats). I've had it mixed for weeks in advance, and sometimes see a slow pH drift, but that is about the only downside that I've seen. No idea about the +life and +size, though.
 

Twisted pleasur

Active member
Veteran
Thanks Rives you have been a rock in this tread. Well done my friend.

I was thinking the R/O would probably be the best from your posts and everyone else.

Guess Ill start there. Looks like some solid results. Worth trying.


But still curious If anyone knows about dirty or life or size...
 

rives

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You need to get a look at a water analysis before deciding on the RO (or others, for that matter). Your local utility should have one on hand, it's usually a state requirement for frequent testing. They are frequently posted online.
 

Twisted pleasur

Active member
Veteran
Hope so Rives This is what I gathered from this thread going to take it all in and try some R/O out.

TheBioMaster


I tell all people first trying V+B to do yourself a favor and on the first run to use ONLY V+B and see what you get. It is COMPLETE! Plenty of silica in several forms as well!! No Cal/Mag is needed but can be used if you want to supplement cal/mag.

V+B also contains many organic compounds and it is not a "all chemical nutrient". It contains amino acids, cytokinns, humics, and as mentioned contains the best fulvic isolate on the market, or should I say the most bio-active.

You can use tea's with V+B if you like using tea's and bennies. But really to be fair to yourself, you should try the first run with only V+B and see what you get. Most get the cleanest product that they have ever grown, best tasting and bigger yields even.

At low dosage it acts as a veg formula, at medium dosages it acts as a bloom formula, and at higher dosages it acts as a bloom nutrient PLUS the PK Boosters.

V+B is not only one of easiest nutrients to "dial in" (only takes one run to dial things in) but it is also great for folks that like to mix and match strains. You can easily find a "happy dosage" that will keep different strains all happy at the same time.

Suggested dosages


Small plants and seedlings get from 0 to 200PPM (.5 x500 conversion rates), medium plants should get around 400 to 600PPM and larger plants in flower about 600 to 800PPM and then for mid to later flowering stages you can run it at 800 to 1000PPM. For aggressive flowering schedules have seen people go up to around 1400PPM........

DANS
I've gone as high as 1100 ppm in the 5th & 6th week for the boost & had no problems with RO water & the soft water formula . in flower i start off around 750 & build up from there till the boost then i start dropping back down & i flush with around 150ppm .

its worked great so far

THESE Pics LOOK KILLER
destroying it with the RO formula, I'm using it at 1.4EC and these dairy queen love it! these are only like 4 weeks in so will be massive when they are done, they already smell dank!

RIVES SCHEDULE
No, I dropped it 7 days later. The online directions call for the highest level of nutrients for the first 21 days (weeks 1-3), then start scaling back in weeks 4-6, and then either minimal nutrients in week 7 and flushing in 8 or flushing in 7 & 8 depending on the medium.

I used an EC of 1.5-1.6 for the first 4 weeks, 1.2 for the 5th week, .8 for the 6th, .6 for the 7th (I was just diluting down by adding straight water during these two weeks), and .1 for the 8th thru harvest at 9.5 weeks. The plants were still considerably greener than I would have expected, but the smoke was some of the smoothest that I have had almost immediately after drying.

The pictures below are a group shot one week before harvest (I don't have one any closer), and one plant after trimming.

This time, I am running a variety that likes to be fed more, and from the initial transplant from beer cups into 3 gallon airpots, I fed at 1.0. for 2 weeks (was using .8 while in cups). Then kicked it up to 1.2 for 12 days, and just went to 1.4 3 days ago. Today is the first day of 12/12, and in a couple of days I'll take it up to 1.6.

NETPRO
FIRST few weeks of bloom
go with EC, keeps it simple. I found on my last run that one of my girls wouldn't take over 1.4 without burning, the other wanted 1.9-2 all day. I'm running 1.8 on these and they are loving it.

CO2 from BIO

Just a FYI, when you run high levels of C02, you want to raise the temps to about 85F to 90F.........

Wait until 30 minutes after lights come on, and then start your C02 generator......this 30 minutes of lights on allows the stomata to open fully, and jacking up C02 levels BEFORE the stomata opens fully, will actually prevent the stomata from opening up all the way and slow growth down instead of speeding it up.

You want to match the EC/PPM levels of your solution with your c02 levels......i.e. your running 1200ppm, then run at least 1200ppm of c02.......this is a good "guide line" to tweaking your C02 to proper levels.

AFTER all other aspects of your environment have been tweaked to perfection....THEN you can begin to jack the C02 levels to 2 or even 3 times of what the EC/PPM levels are.

It is important to use the C02 properly to avoid wasting it, and more importantly to avoid hindering your plant's growth and health......most C02 users go straight to the part about jacking up levels 2 and 3 times of what the EC/PPM levels are......if all other parts of your grow on NOT dead on accurate and "dialed-in" then really anything over like 800 to 1000PPM's of C02 is a total waste IMO..........for your plants to be able to utilize that much C02 and more, you must understand that your plants MUST be a perfect picture of health. And your environment must also be a perfect picture of perfect conditions in relation to the strain type.

NETPRO
I'm hitting them with 1.8 every feed with no flush this run. I am not running the dairy queen this round so am going to run it above 1.4 . rockwool hugos in trays, top drippers 1/8" small ass drip tubes, no clogs! These are all at 1.8 ph 5.8 loving it!!

Sound advice


v+b - never more than 1.5 EC in peat
used +size 3x @ beginning of week 4,5,6 @ 1.5 gram and lowered v+b accordingly

VEG Rives
Yep. I don't go any lower than an EC of 1.0 during early vegging for light feeders and find that 1.2 works better for most of my plants. I don't know why underfeeding with V+B manifests itself as a bunch of weird deficiencies, but it sure as hell does.

Sound Advice
you only ever want to raise or lower the EC of your nutrient solution by 0.3EC - thats 150ppm, and you want to keep it at that level for about 3 days before moving up or down another step.

week 1 - 1.0EC
week 2 - 1.3EC
week 3 - 1.6EC
week 4 - 1.3EC
week 5 - 1.0EC
week 6 - 0.7EC
week 7 - 0.4EC
week 8 - 0.1EC(+)

at no time should you give 0.0EC (unless you feed them something on accident you and didnt mean to?)

my last feed before 'flush' is 0.5EC(250ppm) of MOAB(no v+b) and my 'flush' is 0.2EC(100ppm) tap water at ph 6.5. week 7 = 250ppm. week 8 = 100ppm till chop.

this all depends on the medium.

after two months how salty do you think the medium is? pretty salty... should be low ph too. you basically just made some dirt right? making the medium more alkaline frees up the residual salt buildup. free fertilizer at the end of the cycle basically, just enough to let her 'autumn out' but not too much that she never finishes or gets overcooked.

Hammer&Moab

week 5- 5 ml hammerhead per gal
week 6- 2.5 ml hammerhead per gal, 1 tsp moab per 5 gal
week 7- 2 tsp moab per 5 gal

Life+
Using it right now, my plants are drinking like never before, I was told 15 grams per 50 gallons

IcBuds Mix

I use 6.5 grams of dirty per gallon weeks 2-5 at 1.8-1.9ec in promix at 6.0ph. I've been using their +life powder at 5 grams per 15-20 gallons as recommended and my shit looks,smells, and is more beautiful than ever. information exchange, it makess people smarter. oh an keep your 1000w air cooled bulbs 2-3' away at all times and the room 70-78 degrees. 2#s alldaydank
 

dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
welp we can stop now, post #1507 has it all covered


Yeah it does :)

nice conglomeration of posts TP !!!! its going to help alot of newbies to V&B get eveything straight without having to read through the thread . :tiphat:
 

PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Am I reading this right: 500ppm after first 3 days?

Are you talking clones, seedlings, or both?


I have found 500 prematurely forces sexing, so after a couple weeks at ~ 200, I then bump up to ~ 400
 

dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
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Veteran
PF .... you gotta remember , most of us are NOT doing Hydro .... you are , your strengths are going to be lower .if i don't hit my clones & seedlings with at least 1.0 ec .... they show weird defs . rives says the same thing . with hydro your nutes are much more readily available than with coco & defenatly with soils .
 

Aspenou812

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey Guys look what showed up today! And a day early. I had to place separate orders for The Dirty and The +size & +Life and HR refunded the 15 dollar shipping. How awesome is that?
 

stoned40yrs

Ripped since 1965
Veteran
If Veg+Bloom was such a great stand alone/ one nute does it all then they wouldn't have had to make +life and +size.:biggrin: After reading this thread it sounds like a great vegger and a just ok bloomer. Maybe the +life and +size will turn it into a great bloomer also. But then there you are again: multiple high priced nutes to mix and feed. I'm sure they are hard at work on the new + Gigantic :tiphat:
 

rives

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If Veg+Bloom was such a great stand alone/ one nute does it all then they wouldn't have had to make +life and +size.:biggrin: After reading this thread it sounds like a great vegger and a just ok bloomer. Maybe the +life and +size will turn it into a great bloomer also. But then there you are again: multiple high priced nutes to mix and feed. I'm sure they are hard at work on the new + Gigantic :tiphat:

That's funny, this sounds strangely like a comment about how it works from someone that has never used it......
 

stoned40yrs

Ripped since 1965
Veteran
That's funny, this sounds strangely like a comment about how it works from someone that has never used it......

It would take 9 lifetimes to try all the products on the market. One way to eliminate some of them is to try and wade thru 100 page bad novels like this one. Veg+ Bloom base is no longer K.I.S.S if you need to order 2 more different tubs of nutes to get the BANG! Spin it how ever you want to. If it's so great in bloom then why did Dansbuds quit using it in bloom and go to canna for bloom :biggrin:
That said it does sound killer for veg which is why I ordered their free sample 4 days ago. 150 grams for just $6 shipping. I'll post up in this thread what I think of it for veg in a few months :tiphat:
 

rives

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No need to spin it, I have been using it, for two years now. People are always going to be trying to get just a little bit more, and there are obviously going to be some compromises from a one-part nutrient.

That said, I just harvested a couple of Tsi Fly plants which had been fed nothing other than V+B from the their first feeding until their last. The bigger one yielded 8.3 ounces. Scary to think what might have been the outcome if it was more than "a just ok bloomer".
 

jayjayfrank

Member
Veteran
+life is only for dirty formula right?

start to finish V+B and bloom booster and thats TOO many things to try? thats not simple enough? because in the beginning it was said to work without a bloom booster? which it still does right?

i thought dansbud switched back because he got his filters working again?
 

dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
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I'm using V&B on 8 gorillas & i'm using Canna on 8 gorillas . all grown in 3 gallon pots of coco . 4 plants per light . I want to see myself if theres any real difference . I am using it for veg , cuz it beats the shit outa canna for veg . but i love the taste of my buds grown in canna compared to alot of other nutes ...... so its testing time :)

the only real difference is ..... i'm using 600's here with the canna nutes & 1000's in my tent with V&B nutes ( no PK booster ) . so i'm thinking the tent with the thoueys & V&B will be a bigger producer cuz of the lights ..... but i'm more concerned on the finished taste , the frost factor & the density of the buds .i can't tell size difference till i do a side by side under the same lights .

my glue factory album in my sig is my tent with the 1000's & V&B if ya want to check it out . i'll be adding pics once a week till its finished .

& the other 8 gorillas on canna nutes are in my gorilla glue albums .
 
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dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The veg growth with V&B has been phenominal !!! 20 days & my GG's were ready to be flipped .

picture.php


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but the bud set with canna has been equally amazing !!

day 27

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11 days later at 38 days .....

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Its gonna be a tuff call to see which i like better !!! but i'll get back to ya all with an honest opinion !!
 

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