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RDWC Roots are never white? even with tea
- Thread starter Dr.Tone
- Start date
WOW, it got cloudy and stinky overnight??
You have got serious water issues bro, maybe you should run your tester with store bought water as a comparison.
As for the big grow.. the fungal disease seems to be established, if thats so the tea will not work.
If it were me i would add 1 drop of clorox bleach per gallon of water in the res to kill the fungal infection, add the zone the following day.
Seems to me the clock is ticking, scrap the teas for at least this round and go sterile.
Some of my good bro's have been battling serious water/disease issues for well over 2yrs, it has gone airborn so there is no winning the war, only live with it.
The Zone is the only thing that is letting them operate at respectable levels, its not perfect but better than nothing.
My point is... i feel your pain, i have searched ENDLESSLY for a resolution for my buddies.
Tried everything known to man, 100's of experiments with products, countless time and money lost.
you can save the grow you have going now, it wont be perfect, but its something, gotta go sterile, i would outsource the water also.
good luck
You have got serious water issues bro, maybe you should run your tester with store bought water as a comparison.
As for the big grow.. the fungal disease seems to be established, if thats so the tea will not work.
If it were me i would add 1 drop of clorox bleach per gallon of water in the res to kill the fungal infection, add the zone the following day.
Seems to me the clock is ticking, scrap the teas for at least this round and go sterile.
Some of my good bro's have been battling serious water/disease issues for well over 2yrs, it has gone airborn so there is no winning the war, only live with it.
The Zone is the only thing that is letting them operate at respectable levels, its not perfect but better than nothing.
My point is... i feel your pain, i have searched ENDLESSLY for a resolution for my buddies.
Tried everything known to man, 100's of experiments with products, countless time and money lost.
you can save the grow you have going now, it wont be perfect, but its something, gotta go sterile, i would outsource the water also.
good luck
i have an RODI 65g a day not in use should i make up my own ro water or buy it? in my flowering plant tub i just drained half of the solution and refilled. now its at .99 EC so 500ppm
so your saying add 50 drops of bleach isnt that about 3ml? then should i rez change after 24 hrs and add the zone? @ 4ml a gallon?
so your saying add 50 drops of bleach isnt that about 3ml? then should i rez change after 24 hrs and add the zone? @ 4ml a gallon?
should i switch em back to 18/6 and resume veg nutes and flower a little later when roots are healthy again?
i can pull em out of the system too. i think ill clean and sterilize the empty flower system i have next to the one running so i can clean and prep everything and fill the rez. should i be using the bleach 1 drop per gallon every day? and how often do i reed to redose the DM zone?
should i add SM90. sorry for all the questions.
hells winter
Member
Hello,
By the looks of your water it looks like you got some "dead spots" where the water is not moveing enough IMO, this has coused me problems in the past, not sayin you need a bigger pump but you sould get more/bigger stones, or spread them out. I find when you go in to bloom and raise the P to much it's easy to run into water problems, dont know why really.
And it's really better with less in DWC, and with a EC around 1.0 and good water movement you should be abel to grow without h2o2 or whatever is used.
Water quality can come in to play, but i have grown DWC and aero with a starting EC of 0.6 and PH of 8.4 with very good results, the thing is to lower the PH before adding nutes.
But maybe your situation need another kind of attention, but DWC should be keept simple with less product used.
anyways
Good luck
By the looks of your water it looks like you got some "dead spots" where the water is not moveing enough IMO, this has coused me problems in the past, not sayin you need a bigger pump but you sould get more/bigger stones, or spread them out. I find when you go in to bloom and raise the P to much it's easy to run into water problems, dont know why really.
And it's really better with less in DWC, and with a EC around 1.0 and good water movement you should be abel to grow without h2o2 or whatever is used.
Water quality can come in to play, but i have grown DWC and aero with a starting EC of 0.6 and PH of 8.4 with very good results, the thing is to lower the PH before adding nutes.
But maybe your situation need another kind of attention, but DWC should be keept simple with less product used.
anyways
Good luck
captinahab
Member
100% of the time root rot is caused by not enough oxygen in the water...
The tips are white because they are the only part taking in oxygen as a last ditch effort to stay alive. Fix the problem.... not throw morechemical shit in to keep them alive in a hostle envirnment. Double your air and the roots will be white. I noticed the roots in the cloner have proper white root.. thats because they have enough oxygen.
I only changed my rez once every 12 weeks.... never had root rot cause i keep the oxygen dialed in.
The tips are white because they are the only part taking in oxygen as a last ditch effort to stay alive. Fix the problem.... not throw morechemical shit in to keep them alive in a hostle envirnment. Double your air and the roots will be white. I noticed the roots in the cloner have proper white root.. thats because they have enough oxygen.
I only changed my rez once every 12 weeks.... never had root rot cause i keep the oxygen dialed in.
captinahab
Member
If you have a D.O. (disoved oxygen) meter. Check it in the clonner vs rez. I bet its a shitload higher in the clonner.
If you dont have a D.O. meter then you should get one. They are very useful in conjunction with a microscope when making tea..... infact in my opinion required unless you like guessing
If you dont have a D.O. meter then you should get one. They are very useful in conjunction with a microscope when making tea..... infact in my opinion required unless you like guessing
captinahab
Member
You realize that you adding billions of oxygen breathing microbs thru tea rite? You must feed them oxygen to keep them alive. Its kindda like a fish pond with to many fish and not enough oxygen... what happenes...they use up all your plants oxygen to the point of over population and then death.
Your D.O. meter should read at least 6.0 to be arobic. Suprised it doesnt stink.
Your D.O. meter should read at least 6.0 to be arobic. Suprised it doesnt stink.
captinahab
Member
http://www.microbeorganics.com/#So_You_Wanna_Build_A_Compost_Tea_Brewer
Read this page. For a 50 gallon tea brewer it takes 4cfm pump to keep the d.o. at or above 6.0 with all those micro organisms breathing. I dont think your pump is even 1cfm for your 50 gallon rez.
You got the right idea by adding hydroton... add more if you cant afford a pump. Maby enough to get in in the 20 range on gallons. Less water means more air with the same sized pump.
Read this page. For a 50 gallon tea brewer it takes 4cfm pump to keep the d.o. at or above 6.0 with all those micro organisms breathing. I dont think your pump is even 1cfm for your 50 gallon rez.
You got the right idea by adding hydroton... add more if you cant afford a pump. Maby enough to get in in the 20 range on gallons. Less water means more air with the same sized pump.
The RO unit will not filter out bacteria/fungi.
Are you having good results with a water cloner? if so then Capt may be more correct about the DO...
What makes me believe your water source is infected, is because you said the test bucket got cloudy and stinky overnight.. in my experience there is only one thing that causes that... INFECTED WATER .
Your pretty far into flower to reveg, almost 20 days? i would resume flower and do the best with what you have.
You should not need to add bleach everyday, once you do the initial dose, you should add the zone. re add the zone at top offs only. never exceed the recommended amount.
You should not need the am-90
Hopefully you will get this sorted, i know the hell your in rite now! haha
You should not need to add bleach everyday, once you do the initial dose, you should add the zone. re add the zone at top offs only. never exceed the recommended amount.
You should not need the am-90
Hopefully you will get this sorted, i know the hell your in rite now! haha
Start adding hygrozyme to your buckets. It's expensive, but it works. Whitest roots I've ever seen. Enzymes work better, and are safer, than tonics like h2o2 or bleach. But they are more expensive.
Also, if you do have microbes in your water supply, one thing you could do is buy an in-tank UV filter from an aquarium shop and pre-treat your water before using it on plants.
Also, if you do have microbes in your water supply, one thing you could do is buy an in-tank UV filter from an aquarium shop and pre-treat your water before using it on plants.
alright guys i feel ya about the air. in the tub i use 70lpm pump with 4 large airstones. theres also 2 1450gph hydor power heads making it swirl around. i set the powerheads lower and aimed em at the water surface for some flooming action. in the veg system i use a 20lpm with 4 air stones. my buddy uses the same pump with 6 buckets and his roots are white as can be. i will order a DO meter tonight and see if i can get a reading. BTW there only 1 week into flower. i did take all the plants out of the veg system and did a peroxide dip on em and sprayed the gunk off em so there white again. ill give ya guys another update. i have to work at 3. i work at a small hydro shop by the way so i can get anything you guys recommend. ill be at work till 3. i can get a bigger air pump and 10 stones for the tub. its weird tho cause ive vegged the plants in the tub and there was a time when they were white and had 1 and a half foot long roots. grrr. thanks guys
So I'm sitting here at work pricing out DO meters. There expensive but cheaper then buying a new airpump. Should I buy 10 large airstone and a active aqua 110lpm air pump?
I really Dont think it will help but what do I know. My grows nothing but problems.
Also im gonna throw em in 5 gallon buckets. All the water changes with the tub are taking a tole on my water bill changing 40 gallons out a week. I'm gonna put em in a low 420ppm solution and start foliar feeding a weak bloom foliar spray with DM Saturator to keep em going.
I gave them a nice bath for 30 min with 10ml gallon h202 and 5ml gallon sm90 and 3ml a gallon zone. alot of the brown washed away along with a bunch of decaying root matter.
after a half hr i transfered them to the new res. i cleaned this tub with h202 and a 1/4 cup of bleach. rised with RODI water and let air dry. i filled with new 30g batch of rodi water 0ppm ph 6.0. used cal mag to bring it up to 300 ppm @ .68 conversion. then added 30 ml each of DM Bloom A+B and 60ml Add 27. that brough me to 550 ppm. so 300 ppm cal mag and 250 ppm DM Nutes. i also added 2ml per gallon dutchmaster zone. hit them with 3ml a gallon h2o2 29% Id say that's as sterile as it gets.water temps are 65.4 room temps are 78.2. my air pumps 70 watts and 70lpm, they say watt per gallon so it seems im covered. but just in case ive got 1 more 45lpm air pump ill run 4 more stones in the tub tmrw, so 9 air stones total. Wish me luck ya'll.
after a half hr i transfered them to the new res. i cleaned this tub with h202 and a 1/4 cup of bleach. rised with RODI water and let air dry. i filled with new 30g batch of rodi water 0ppm ph 6.0. used cal mag to bring it up to 300 ppm @ .68 conversion. then added 30 ml each of DM Bloom A+B and 60ml Add 27. that brough me to 550 ppm. so 300 ppm cal mag and 250 ppm DM Nutes. i also added 2ml per gallon dutchmaster zone. hit them with 3ml a gallon h2o2 29% Id say that's as sterile as it gets.water temps are 65.4 room temps are 78.2. my air pumps 70 watts and 70lpm, they say watt per gallon so it seems im covered. but just in case ive got 1 more 45lpm air pump ill run 4 more stones in the tub tmrw, so 9 air stones total. Wish me luck ya'll.
captinahab
Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CC4OAJF8xTI&feature=youtube_gdata_player
This is a correct pump to water size to brew tea. See how rapid the water has to move to keep the oxygen up.(and no it doesnt hurt the microbs they frikin love it).
So if your adding soil compost etc (basicaly brewing a tea in your dwc bucket) Unless you have that much water moving it shouldnt be in your system as it is depleating air rapidly until the point it stinks... aka stagnent water. So definatly dont use it.
I found no need for h2o2 because every time i added it it threw my p.h. off. No biggie because it stabalizes if you let it be(no ph adjusters after h2o2) But i didnt like ridding roller coaster numbers.
If you dont dump stuff in other than a and b you shouldnt need it. I gave my bottles away.
Bet if you just tried the a and the b youd have a happy harvest. But they look healthy above the root zone.. good job
This is a correct pump to water size to brew tea. See how rapid the water has to move to keep the oxygen up.(and no it doesnt hurt the microbs they frikin love it).
So if your adding soil compost etc (basicaly brewing a tea in your dwc bucket) Unless you have that much water moving it shouldnt be in your system as it is depleating air rapidly until the point it stinks... aka stagnent water. So definatly dont use it.
I found no need for h2o2 because every time i added it it threw my p.h. off. No biggie because it stabalizes if you let it be(no ph adjusters after h2o2) But i didnt like ridding roller coaster numbers.
If you dont dump stuff in other than a and b you shouldnt need it. I gave my bottles away.
Bet if you just tried the a and the b youd have a happy harvest. But they look healthy above the root zone.. good job
captinahab
Member
Thats a $180 dollar pump... and no you dont need it
