Vacuum Pump Discussion

[synthacide]

First thanks for the replies!

midwest, thanks for the input your right, and we think alike, its usually cheaper to spend "the big bucks" upfront and have quality and piece of mind (not to mention a serviceable unit) i just wonder if they're "lower end" is good enough for this application, seeing that none are really rated for r-600, n-butane or "refill cans" I see failure as a thing that will happen, then I read about you guys running some of these for YEARS (i.e. robinaire 1500@$160) again dont mind spending more, i just want a little community input

thanks again guys, as you can see im a long time lurker, and I always value input

 

[G.O. Joe]

My whole setup has no leaks everything has hose clamps where they're barbs and the correct 1/4" SAE threaded barb attachment. Threadings are all sealed.

There's sealed, and there's SEALED, I've found out. When I hooked up a Bullet to a male flare micron gauge with a 3' manifold hose, the pressure quickly dropped to 300 microns, but struggled over the next hour to get to 75. When the gauge was connected with only a swivel nut (flare union), the pressure immediately went down to 21 microns, +/- 5%+5 microns. Also found out how easily these gauges are fouled with pump oil, always start and shut off the pump with the gauge completely off. If anyone is using the boiling point of water as a gauge, note that 3-column nomographs don't work for polar substances like water at low pressures, you need real reference numbers from experiment. Some of these numbers and some good tips were in the manual, from the manufacturer:

1) For the fastest vacuum, connect your pump directly to the system. Going through a manifold slows the job.
2) Use as large a hose as possible, even though the system has 1/4" fittings. A 1/2” or 3/8” hose allows a much faster and more complete vacuum.
3) Use as short a hose as practical to get maximum evacuation speed. Short hoses make evacuation faster than longer hoses. Long hoses slow the process.
4) Metal hoses are the most impervious so will be the most effective in evacuation.

 

[pip313]

"There's sealed, and there's SEALED, I've found out."

I second this and can't stress it enough if ground glass made to hold vacuum with high vacuum grease can still leak badly anything can. Also my switch broke on my harbor freight pump, no big deal but if yours stops working too check the switch first they are cheap.

 

[Silence Dogood]

How about those hand pumps? Can you pull the full -25 to -30hg?

 

[Gray Wolf]

There's sealed, and there's SEALED, I've found out. When I hooked up a Bullet to a male flare micron gauge with a 3' manifold hose, the pressure quickly dropped to 300 microns, but struggled over the next hour to get to 75. When the gauge was connected with only a swivel nut (flare union), the pressure immediately went down to 21 microns, +/- 5%+5 microns. Also found out how easily these gauges are fouled with pump oil, always start and shut off the pump with the gauge completely off. If anyone is using the boiling point of water as a gauge, note that 3-column nomographs don't work for polar substances like water at low pressures, you need real reference numbers from experiment. Some of these numbers and some good tips were in the manual, from the manufacturer:

1) For the fastest vacuum, connect your pump directly to the system. Going through a manifold slows the job.
2) Use as large a hose as possible, even though the system has 1/4" fittings. A 1/2” or 3/8” hose allows a much faster and more complete vacuum.
3) Use as short a hose as practical to get maximum evacuation speed. Short hoses make evacuation faster than longer hoses. Long hoses slow the process.
4) Metal hoses are the most impervious so will be the most effective in evacuation.
[URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=13921&pictureid=923415&thumb=1"]View Image[/URL]

All good points and add that every elbow or bend increases static losses in the system, so try to keep everything moving in a straight line and if you have to turn a corner, turn it with as wide a radius as possible.

I have also taken all the Schrader valves out of my system and all my process line valves are full port ball valves for maximum CV (flow rate).

 

[Tyga]

Sorry for this "Noob" question but where do you purchase the containers for purging and the tubing...etc. I assume when your purchase the pump the pump is all your getting..

 

[CarefulGrower]

Sorry for this "Noob" question but where do you purchase the containers for purging and the tubing...etc. I assume when your purchase the pump the pump is all your getting..

Some chambers come complete, some are sold as kits, you can buy the chamber, tube, and pump separately, or buy a pre-built.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Gallon-Va...=WDVW&rd=1&ih=003&category=46548&cmd=ViewItem

Or save money build yourself - http://skunkpharmresearch.com/diy-vacuum-purging-chamber/

 

[Jibman]

Thinking about getting one of these. I had a harbor freight but it clunked out.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/380643253424

 

[foaf]

http://www.tapeease.com/vacuum_bags.htm

Check out this vacuum cycler. Come on, someone buy one and test it out.

 

[710Chef]

Could anyone point me to a thread with a proper way to purge w/o a vaccuum or is this a stupid newbie question to ask.

 

[CarefulGrower]

Could anyone point me to a thread with a proper way to purge w/o a vaccuum or is this a stupid newbie question to ask.

Don't know of a good tek to link you to.

Keep it on a double broiler at 125 degrees (I go 10-15 degrees hotter without a vacuum than with one) and raze the top of the oil with a heat gun, about 6 inches above the oil (for the heat from my gu, yours may vary). Do not hold the heat steady over one spot for too long, pass by quickly just heating up the top of the oil to force the butane out quicker. If the oil heats up too much, you will start losing the taste profile. Use a laser thermometer to make sure your oil isn't getting too hot with heat being applied from below and above.

Basically, keep applying heat from below, and add heat from above. When you notice no more bubbles forming, you should be good. Lots of people use this method if they dont run enough to justify a vacuum and can make good looking product with it.

You can use a butane torch to do this but it is easier to overcook with it I find. If your oven is very good, and can hold 120 degrees indefinitely (confirm with infrared laser thermometer, not what the stove says it's at!) you could leave your pyrex in there until the reaction stops/minimizes.

 

[calikid55]

JB black gold oil the secret. robinaire and other oils amber not as good Oil should be as clear as mineral oil BTW my harbor freight over 6 yrs and thousands uses pulls to 25 micron. When she dies will go with JB

 

[j09]

CPS VP 6D 6 cfm and a Robinaire 5 cfm. Robinaire is new and run only two or three times, and the CPS a couple of years old.

Hey GW just wondering if this is the same exact pump you are referring to.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CPS-Product...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20da1a15f8&vxp=mtr

Also would the VPS4 version of the CPS work fine or should I go with the 6?

 

[j09]

Anyone interested in sharing their ways to flatten the purging material as you go along.

I've been seeing amazing results after making a wooden mallet oil slick combo, allowing me to press the material down flat without sticking(swiftly pressing downward)

Thinner the better...

 

[BeingButti]

Will my vac method work?

Will my vac method work?

I recently got a powerfist hand pump brake bleeder and attached it to a large mason jar (large enough to hold 2.5oz of weed) I can achieve a pressure of -29.5inHg and from what Ive read that should be perfect , I plan to leave the mason jar in warm water to keep the oil warm and soft and plan to do 20min long purges at a time with a 2-3min hot water bath , I have achieved almost all variations of concentrates without ever using any vac of any sort, hot water baths only and never had any spark or sizzle when smoking or test burning it, so will this vac be worth my investment($60)? And will it be more effective? Here are some pics of past concentrates I've made without touching a vac, any input or suggestions are much appreciated, thanks!

 

[GratefulOne]

If you want to keep as many terps as possible you need low temps (under 105F) and vacuum. You can purge the butane with no vac and high heat but the flavor will go.

 

[GratefulOne]

What is everyone doing for vacuum cold traps?

GW did you go with the design on Skunkfarm?

Thank you for the help!

 

[mack 10]

So what's the word on a decent pump.
For the beginner, only purgeing 5-10g at a time.

Has no one put a decent pump and chamber deal out lately?

An what else do I need to keep any mystery oil out of my Bho?

 

[GratefulOne]

TO keep mystery oil out of your bho you need a closed loop system. With that you can distill the butane to remove all impurities.

 

[G.O. Joe]

What is everyone doing for vacuum cold traps?

Labconco makes a refrigerated cold trap for their centrivap system. The newer models have a drain and vacuum lid with KF fittings. It looks like a good design. The old kind that I have originally came with an insert I don't have or need and is used with fluid and a glass coldfinger or three, until a lid is custom made.

For $230 and only half a fingernail I got an old 1376 in the door. Wow 1-1/2-12 inlet and 1-20 exhaust fittings for the original model are hard to find. Has anyone seen a barb inlet for sale in this size? So now I'm using KF40 flanges because of the available KF inlet and 1-1/2 wired hose, and I already have much cheaper KF25 gear for an Edwards 18.

The pump came with oil but it was the color of maple syrup so I thought it would be wise to power flush with Inland 19. The gauge reading is in microns. No clamps!



No deal was struck with Welch or their distributors before originally mentioning the Duoseal, but they really should send me a couple 1374B's. And parts for the old 1376 - it's a shame they don't support the old versions.