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Minions of the Dark

SG1

Goblin Master
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Only other product that helps keep it off other plants was a product called actinovate but only as a preventative. was in the same boat trying different sprays just like SG1


I try everything personally before condemning a product.
Actinovate was my last disappointment used outdoors last year.
I noticed no positive results what so ever.
Total waste of $$$ and time.
I tried voodoo homemade crap from other growers, etc.
Nothing worked 100%

Sulfur burning is quite easy for me to use.
Set a timer plug it in, and leave it hanging for 2 days.
No wet applications, no individual treatments, and 100% death to PM.

I won't even try any other application anymore.
When something works, and it's easy to use, stick with it.

As far as bud goes, I don't believe anything should be applied to them, not even water.

On an added note: Sulfur is not toxic to humans in reasonable doses.
Matter of fact was used in past wars before antibiotics were invented as field dressings for preventing bacterial and fungal infections.
It was applied directly into open wounds without harming the victim of battle.

I'd say it's well tested :biggrin:
 

Seaf0ur

Pagan Extremist
Veteran
Lots of places for bugs to hide. lol

that is the point.... I want my bugs to be comfy.... but the alfalfa mulch gets a blue mold at the soil surface underneath.... barley goes too out of control.... even chopped and dropped.... so now I'm prepping my big pots for the transition to clover.
 
A person that has some knowledge out here in CO said PM actually starts near the stem and works it's way out to the leaves. Did you notice that as well SG?

Actinovate was not able to stop PM once it was going. Supposed to be a preventative but agree once it was there it had little effect.

Clover does look nice Sea. Hope it does what you want it too.
 

SG1

Goblin Master
ICMag Donor
Veteran
A person that has some knowledge out here in CO said PM actually starts near the stem and works it's way out to the leaves. Did you notice that as well SG?

Actinovate was not able to stop PM once it was going. Supposed to be a preventative but agree once it was there it had little effect.

I never look at the stem.
Kinda like getting an STD, doesn't really matter how you got it, just getting rid of it matters.

It could start at the stem, but always notice it on the leaves first.
Actinovate was used on all my plants outdoors when I noticed it on one plant.
I sprayed all plants, but even the ones with no PM got the PM after I had sprayed them.
Didn't prevent or treat the PM.
 
those are 9 ounce cups... not the beer size... more like big shotglasses

Yup, a 9 oz shot sounds about right for you! That is what? Quadruple what the norm is, right???? And I have a stupid question for Y'all....again....My swimming pool of mixed organic soil in the garage is almost gone....it was full-full...wouldn't hold another "shot glass"...LOL Need to mix more, but that is NOT the problem! I'm getting ready to flip 12 plants to flower, so in approx. 2 months (duh LOL) I will have 120 gal or so of used soil...I've been told this is still living soil (duh again! LOL)....Now the question is this: How do you amend the used soil??? I have read page after page of How-To's & damn near all say something different!! And I trust you Guys more than I trust some web site! Need to mix up more for next round so it is ready in 2 months but the used??? Suggestions please....I know this is NOT an organic thread but most of you are running organics....Thanks!

~Sundance~ Still learning & soaking up the info :peacock: I can get another Pool....I have plenty of room!!!
 

Seaf0ur

Pagan Extremist
Veteran
Did you have deficiencies? If not... You absolutely CAN plant right back into that soil, roots and all..... You don't even have to dump it out of the pot if you don't want.... (this is "no-till", and it absolutely works).

If yer soil needs re-amend... add 1/3 the amount of amendments than you'd use on a new soil.... Kelp is added at full strength... add back some worm castings (maybe 10% by volume).... there's no need to re-amend a liming agent... In my case, I use my rice hulls decomposition and compaction as signs to re-amend... so more rice hulls are added for proper aeration... If ya got it... a lil lactobacillus will speed up the nutrient cycling process but it's not necessary
Moisten that down with an ACT and let it marinate...

When ya think its ready... toss a canary down yer coal mine.... maybe some marigolds or something... if its too strong , cut it with peat or coco... there's a learning curve and I eyeball everything... don't always get it perfect... but there's room for error.


There's no reason not to reuse an actual living soil.... especially after you harvested a fat healthy plant from it... What... did the magical disease monster contaminate it when you wasn't looking? I mean...When you pull weeds from your veggie beds, do your veggies die of some "Rotting Roots In Soil Syndrome"? No... The roots decay and end up providing nutrients your veggies...

a REAL farmer would never throw out his fields....
 
Here is the soil re-amend receipe the minions helped create.

For 30 gallons of soil re-amending, based on your base soil, I would mix
1 cup kelp meal,
1 cups All in one fert such as a "Dr. Earth",
2 cups alfalfa meal
30-40 lb bag of worm castings
1cu ft bag of composed chicken manure. (or bat guano 2.5lbs)
crabmeal for calcium. or powdered oyster shell

Mix thoroughly and let cook turning soil over once a week for min 3week, 6 weeks is optimum.

I might leave out the chicken manure because could not find and have Indo (fruit) bat guano. Chicken is very hot.

add a couple compost teas during the cook time to speed up the cook time and increase the micro herd.
 

Buzzed

Member
Sg can u give me a lil insight on how to properly feed ur cuts for the first 10 days? My lk like hammered shit before they make aa turnaround. Im doin something wrong and cant figure it out.
 

SG1

Goblin Master
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Sg can u give me a lil insight on how to properly feed ur cuts for the first 10 days? My lk like hammered shit before they make aa turnaround. Im doin something wrong and cant figure it out.

Use a base mix only.
NO NUTES NO NUTES NO NUTES
My soils do all the feeding until into big pots, then just ACT for feeds.

All I use is an unamended PH balanced base mix for cuts and seeds.
My cutting live rate is 99%
Seed live rate at 97%

Once rooted then TP into a lightly amended mix.
Increase soil strength as the plant gets bigger.
 

Mr.Sparky

Member
How long do you let this cook? 30days? Is 60 days too long?

Super soil question,
Has anyone done coco for veg and then when transplanting use super soil in the bottom 1/2 of the pot and the fill the rest with coco? Or 50/50 coco ocean forest?

Looking to speed up veg and recycle the suoer soil and coco.
 

bamboogardner

Active member
Not to venture off topic, but does anyone know of a good soil testing laboratory that performs the tests quickly, and hopefully inexpensively?
 

PakaloloFromPNW

Active member
Veteran
Here is the soil re-amend receipe the minions helped create.

For 30 gallons of soil re-amending, based on your base soil, I would mix
1 cup kelp meal,
1 cups All in one fert such as a "Dr. Earth",
2 cups alfalfa meal
30-40 lb bag of worm castings
1cu ft bag of composed chicken manure. (or bat guano 2.5lbs)
crabmeal for calcium. or powdered oyster shell

Mix thoroughly and let cook turning soil over once a week for min 3week, 6 weeks is optimum.

I might leave out the chicken manure because could not find and have Indo (fruit) bat guano. Chicken is very hot.

add a couple compost teas during the cook time to speed up the cook time and increase the micro herd.

I'd add a little more aeration to compensate for the new EWC/chicken manure. Just a suggestion.
 

bamboogardner

Active member
Do you think this test would be sufficient?

The Complete Soil Test provides complete analysis for plant nutrients and soil conditions. It measures soil pH (acidity/alkalinity), percent organic matter, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium and the secondary and micronutrients; sulfur, iron, zinc, manganese, copper and boron. It also evaluates soil texture and classifies the soil by percent sand, silt and clay into one of the 12 soil types (i.e. silty loam, clay loam, sandy clay etc.) The textural analysis will provide information on how to amend the soil to gain better drainage, aeration and root development PLUS some tips on how to fertilize the soil.

$47.95 for that puppy. I saw some others on the internet and they must be smoking crack. $150 and up for one test.

Thanks
 

Seaf0ur

Pagan Extremist
Veteran
not all tests are created equal... not all university extensions do them directly... but they'd be able to point you in the right direction to your local options.
 

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