Air condition more efficient ?

[Ttystikk]

From what I understand now, to run a water chiller you need a rez, iceboxes, a pump and the water chiller itself.

Read about the cooling liquid Freon, where exactly is this liquid? In the water chiller?

So basically the cold water runs from the chiller to the iceboxes, where it gets warmed up, than back to the rez, from the rez to the chiller where the water gets cooled down by the Freon liquid?

Freon is not a liquid, it's a gas (working fluid) used to transfer heat inside an air conditioning unit. It stays inside the chiller and the only lines you'll work with move water or power.

Water will warm up maybe one or two degrees as it passes through a working icebox- that is, one the fan is actively blowing hot air through. By the same token, the chiller will only cool said water a few degrees- it won't swing between hot n cold tapwater. However, due to the high thermal mass of water, this small change is plenty to to move all the heat right out of your garden.

Set your water system to run at 59-60f and it will cool your RDWC without a temperature switch, making your RDWC system effectively act as a cold reservoir for your chiller system.

 

[TooHighTider]

Hey Ttystikk,

Can you post some more pictures of your setup? This is something that I'm really interested in but not sure where to start.

Thanks

 

[budleydoright]

Well considering the original post was discussing 6-8k room. I'm going to have to stand by my position that a minisplit is far easier and ultimately more effecient than watercooling unless you are using an airhandler. I own a chiller, I own an icebox as well as watercooled lights and heat exchangers made from heater cores. I put my time in with WC and understand the benefits. I also understand the pitfalls and complexity of scaling something up to 8k and beyond.

I appreciate your commitment to your design and I'm happy it works so well for you but I'll keep my standard AC for my setup and would recommend the same for people wanting to get into a larger sealed setup. It's the industry standard for a reason.

And I do capture 100% of the heat during the winter months.

That said, I would love to have a big 6-8 ton chiller and a watercooled airhandler.

 

[Ttystikk]

Well considering the original post was discussing 6-8k room. I'm going to have to stand by my position that a minisplit is far easier and ultimately more effecient than watercooling unless you are using an airhandler. I own a chiller, I own an icebox as well as watercooled lights and heat exchangers made from heater cores. I put my time in with WC and understand the benefits. I also understand the pitfalls and complexity of scaling something up to 8k and beyond.

I appreciate your commitment to your design and I'm happy it works so well for you but I'll keep my standard AC for my setup and would recommend the same for people wanting to get into a larger sealed setup. It's the industry standard for a reason.

And I do capture 100% of the heat during the winter months.

That said, I would love to have a big 6-8 ton chiller and a watercooled airhandler.

Yes, they use AC for a reason; 'convention'. They use it for another reason; 'low initial cost'. Then, they pay twice as much every month thereafter.

If you ran water chilling for an 8kW op and you're not completely sold on its superiority over AC, I suspect you were doing it wrong somewhere, ESPECIALLY if you're trying to tell me a minisplit is more efficient?!

I have been running a 16kW op on just two Tons of water cooling for YEARS and some guy is going to tell me his minisplit can do better, I'm just going to shake my head and not argue. Next, he's going to tell me the sky is green and ice cubes sink...

By the way, the idea that an air handler is an obstacle to water chilling strikes me as nonsensical; AC has an air handler too; it's just built into the front of the box!

 

[Edo]

Hey Ttystikk,

Can you post some more pictures of your setup? This is something that I'm really interested in but not sure where to start.

Thanks

That would be great. Would love to see some pictures

 

[budleydoright]

You show me a 16k setup that is sealed and can run on a 2 ton refrigerant unit and I'll buy one tomorrow. And of course since I won't be needing a dehumnidifier as you claim the savings will even be greater!

 

[Ttystikk]

You show me a 16k setup that is sealed and can run on a 2 ton refrigerant unit and I'll buy one tomorrow. And of course since I won't be needing a dehumnidifier as you claim the savings will even be greater!

Okay, here goes, so sharpen your pencil. This kept at least one seasoned HVAC tech up overnight thinking it over, too (he called me the next day and told me!)- but it all works;

First, run chiller water system separately from nutes, one system for everything. 55 gallon barrel holds 40 gallons of water for the chiller, this is meant to provide thermal stability to the system. A waterpump draws from this reservoir and feeds the rest of the system through manifolds, including the chiller itself, heat exchange coils in various RDWC and of course 8" Icebox units to cool and dehumidify the air in the space. Run this water as warm as possible to reduce thermal losses and maximize the efficiency of the chiller. In practice, this means upper fifties to about 60f, depending on your situation.

In each room, 8kW of Magnum xxxl Ochos ran sealed and vented. The sealed and bottle feed room air was cooled with 3 Iceboxes and a coil for each RDWC. This effectively managed temperature and RH of all necessary fluids. The other 8 kW room ran on the flip schedule of the first, so the chiller was never taxed beyond this load.

So to answer your incredulous question, YES! Two Tons of ChillKing's finest did indeed handle not only 16kW of lighting, but also the RDWC AND, as promised, the RH too.

But there's more. It cooled the RDWC in the totally separate veg area too, just for extra credit.

In the interest of full disclosure, it did fall behind on summer afternoons when temperatures exceeded the mid 90s- but then it also had the misfortune of being mounted in the only available window, on the sunny west side of the house. This would hurt any AC unit's efficiency, and the unit was indeed eventually relocated to the north side.

But I'm not done! So the chiller would fall behind during the afternoon, as evidenced by the chiller water slowly warming up into the low sixties- by no means a situation in any way cause for alarm, it's just soaking up excess BTus... and then storing them in my RDWC! Sure, I run 100 gallons of nutrient solution, which adds up to a lot of thermal mass in its own right, which then gives me some VERY interacting options, to be explained momentarily.

Anyway, overnight, the chiller would work off the excess heat buildup and well before the next morning it would have rid the system of the excess heat and be ready for the new day... effectively running beyond its own capacity for the peak heat load!

So, um, one man's 'independently verified by professionals' experience.

You like all that? I did the exact reverse the other night when it got cold; the chiller eras idling along overnight because I had a room down for maintenance. Yet Colorado had other ideas, with temperatures falling below -15f. What to do? Well, I could run my furnace, but it's only there as a last resort- and we ain't thar yet, fellers, not by a long shot!

I just marched into my office where my chiller runs all winter, turned the temperature down a few degrees and voila! Heat for the house and extra cool for the op, to be used when the day side kicked on in the morning. This effectively arbitraged my heating so that I need not use my furnace. Ever. I last ran it three seasons ago. So that saves me about a grand in hearing bills every year right there, on top of all the rest of it.

You want one now, don't ya? Come on, admit it... it's okay. The same fuckers who want to charge $90 for a quart of epsom salt diluted in water are telling you that minisplits are the way to go. Right? So they can sell you a dehuey too! AND- just to add insult to injury here- YOU'LL STILL NEED A CHILLER for your RDWC!!

Show me the HVAC tech who has real greenhouse experience and I'll show you a guy who is well versed in swamp coolers and water chilling, often without compressors. In fact, water chilling is the preferred, even necessary way to cool skyscrapers and other large spaces due to right space and high BTu load requirements. Yet another application where water cooling has shown its superiority? Have a look at your car engine... unless you own an old bug, lol.

 

[budleydoright]

Watercooling is indeed used in large industrial buildings. The part that I'm not convinced is simple. The water is used as a conduit between the freon based chiller and the heat exchangers, in your case ice boxes. What makes you believe that your 2 ton chiller or 24, 000 btu unit can suddenly absorb 32,000 btus generated by 8k open hood. Water doesn't make the freon chiller more effecient than it is. It can't turn 24k into 36k, it's effeciency is in it's abailty to absorb heat and be transmitted or pumped long distances. When you come up with a device that turns 24,000 btu's into 36,000 btus I suppose you'd be quite the rich man. Until then I believe the laws of physics applies to both of us!

And 2 8k rooms on a flip are not the same as a 16k room.

Not trying to nitpick you here but your numbers don't add up. Another word of advice, this if taken will save you a crop. GET THE COPPER TUBING OUT OF YOUR REZ. It will eventually leach and kill your crop. low EC = longer fuze, still burning though. Seen this story at least 3 times a year. Do some research.

Here's a chemical engineer that put this to rest, good reading.

Like I said, not busting balls. Love your kit. We all are here for the same thing, something in our sac at the end of the day!

 

[Ttystikk]

Watercooling is indeed used in large industrial buildings. The part that I'm not convinced is simple. The water is used as a conduit between the freon based chiller and the heat exchangers, in your case ice boxes. What makes you believe that your 2 ton chiller or 24, 000 btu unit can suddenly absorb 32,000 btus generated by 8k open hood. Water doesn't make the freon chiller more effecient than it is. It can't turn 24k into 36k, it's effeciency is in it's abailty to absorb heat and be transmitted or pumped long distances. When you come up with a device that turns 24,000 btu's into 36,000 btus I suppose you'd be quite the rich man. Until then I believe the laws of physics applies to both of us!

And 2 8k rooms on a flip are not the same as a 16k room.

Not trying to nitpick you here but your numbers don't add up. Another word of advice, this if taken will save you a crop. GET THE COPPER TUBING OUT OF YOUR REZ. It will eventually leach and kill your crop. low EC = longer fuze, still burning though. Seen this story at least 3 times a year. Do some research.

Here's a chemical engineer that put this to rest, good reading.

Appreciate the heads up about copper tubing in the res, it's on the list of things to upgrade.

I don't claim my unit moves more heat than an AC unit. In fact, it IS just an AC unit that's been converted to cool water instead. No, the efficiency boost isn't at this end, although I can't fault you for looking here first.

They teach that water has some 900 times the thermal density per unit volume as air. This makes it an incredibly efficient medium for moving heat around, far more so than air. Its ability to effectively slash up heat better than AC it's what gives chilling part of its edge.

Another huge chunk of the efficiency boost comes from the fact that since it IS the dehumidifier, it isn't fighting the hot exhaust from one. I've read in multiple places that on average, indoor gardeners actually spend more power on their climate control than they do on the lighting itself. Chilling changes that ratio back in our favor, so rather than nitpick, in your shoes I'd be celebrating and looking for ways to buy one.

But again, not done. Remember the little chiller everyone gets to cool their RDWC? Yeah, those little toys are terrible, and give beefier units a bad name. If course, if you do have the bigger system, keeping your RDWC water cold is trivial. AC won't do that at all, forcing an alternative approach.

If I fail to convince you that a 2 Ton unit can cool a 16kW op, it's only because I'm unable to effectively express the details convincingly enough for you, but lest you forget, I'm reporting my own, personal, ACTUAL EXPERIENCE. The above is not a theoretical exercise, it was an operational fact, verified by professionals. Complain, cajole, attack the numbers, or even call me a fuckin' liar all you want, it won't change the facts.

The only reason I'm not still doing it is because I went vertical bare bulb recently. Now, that same chiller is cooling only 12kW of bare bulb op. Plus veg. Unassisted.

 

[budleydoright]

Refrigerant to air is less efficient than refrigerant to water, this is true, but you go from water to air so the effeciency that you are quoting is not exactly as stated. Again, don't get me wrong I'm enjoying the dialog and wouldn't go on if I didn't hope to gain something.

We are in simular climates, your's a bit colder. I can't imagine that your 24k unit will handle 12k bare in the summer. If it does that's awsome but my math says no way!

 

[Ttystikk]

One more thing you glossed over regarding water cooling vs AC, and that's the thermal stability issue and the ability of a well designed water chilling system to effectively operate beyond its own capacity for short periods of several hours or so. AC don't do dat. Since this has the ability to flatten the load peak somewhat, the astute grower can purchase only the water chilling capacity s/he needs, which is less capacity than even the peak load might suggest.

When you cried foul over a 16kW op being split into two rooms, you again missed a core advantage of water chilling, and that is its ability to manage multiple spaces simultaneously, up to its rated capacity (and again, for short periods, beyond). So one chiller really CAN handle two 8kW spaces and thus keep a 16kW op cool by itself, therefore it's not 'cheating', it's 'efficient'. AND it results in only having to buy half the cooling capacity compared to AC, no matter which way you try it.

The reasons more people don't use chilling boil down to higher initial cost, complex installation and a poor understanding of just exactly wtf it is they're trying to do in their grow room. As these barriers fall, expect to see more and more people running ops and their whole homes with water heating and chilling.

One step further down this road is water cooled process chilling, in which the same unit now makes hot water instead of hot air. This hot water could be used in many energy and cost saving ways around both a grow op and a home. Some high end heat pumps already work like this.

 

[budleydoright]

The reasons more people don't use chilling boil down to higher initial cost, complex installation and a poor understanding of just exactly wtf it is they're trying to do in their grow room. As these barriers fall, expect to see more and more people running ops and their whole homes with water heating and chilling.

Which is exasctly my point, it cost more, is more complex, requires more upkeep and has more points of failure. All of which deminish the returns on the effeciency IMHO. I don't need to understand my cooling system or do much to maintain it.

My entire system revolves around simplicity and ease of use.

I do totally understand WC and chillers and appreciate any additional effeciencies which can be brought into our gardens. I've also seen many attempts to watercool fail on one level or another including my own system. Was the failure due to lack of understanding or going to cheap? Perhaps, but again to my point, my current system doesn't require anything from me but the turn of a power switch once 14 months ago. It's been smooth sailing since.

When you say 16k on a 2ton, I'm already thinking of 32k on a flip.!So 16k is 16k, 2 x 8k on flip is only 8k in the mechanical since. Just to clarify.

Just my .02. I personally don't think most people are going to make the commitment you have made to building your system. I want to grow, not change and maintain a rez, check no flow switches, replace pumps etc... When my AC fails. I replace it 100%.

When I do scale up, I will look at a 5 ton chiller and a WC air handler as I do agree they are nice systems. I just don't want hoses or ducts running around my room.

 

[seebobski]

Also tysticks experience with 8k on a flip was in vented hoods. So not true 32k btu heat load. Wait for his update after summer goes! And to clarify are you doing 6k or 12k on flip bare?

 

[Ttystikk]

Which is exasctly my point, it cost more, is more complex, requires more upkeep and has more points of failure. All of which deminish the returns on the effeciency IMHO. I don't need to understand my cooling system or do much to maintain it.

My entire system revolves around simplicity and ease of use.

I do totally understand WC and chillers and appreciate any additional effeciencies which can be brought into our gardens. I've also seen many attempts to watercool fail on one level or another including my own system. Was the failure due to lack of understanding or going to cheap? Perhaps, but again to my point, my current system doesn't require anything from me but the turn of a power switch once 14 months ago. It's been smooth sailing since.

When you say 16k on a 2ton, I'm already thinking of 32k on a flip.!So 16k is 16k, 2 x 8k on flip is only 8k in the mechanical since. Just to clarify.

Just my .02. I personally don't think most people are going to make the commitment you have made to building your system. I want to grow, not change and maintain a rez, check no flow switches, replace pumps etc... When my AC fails. I replace it 100%.

When I do scale up, I will look at a 5 ton chiller and a WC air handler as I do agree they are nice systems. I just don't want hoses or ducts running around my room.

With respect, so many of your objections to the use of water chilling betray a basic lack of understanding about how it works that I simply question your statement that you 'do totally understand WC and chillers'.

I don't replace or maintain a reservoir for anything but growing plants. The cold water reservoir certainly doesn't need more maintenance than checking your oil.

You asked about the total cooling capacity of a 2 Ton chiller and I told you that I got it to cool a 16kW op and then you quibble about my math? Or the clock? The point of a water chiller is that it does not go to the heat, like AC; the heat comes to it, from wherever it might be generated in the system. This DOES make it inherently better for multiple rooms and flip schedule operations than AC, unless you can manage to get one AC unit to cool more than one space at a time.

Compressors and fans fail in AC units all the time. I've replaced my circulation pump once in three years- and it was used when I got it. The chiller itself is also an enclosed box, where all the working parts and the Freon stay. In fact, the box itself is where a chiller and an AC unit are the most SIMILAR. It's the rest of the heat distribution system that is so different, being water vs air.

There is not one no flow/no go switch anywhere in my entire system. That's only needed with a water cooled CO² setup, something I tell people is NOT compatible with water chilling, in spite of what some idiot might have told them!

Going one step further, the only thermostat in the entire watercooling system is the one on the chiller- and it is where I control my room RH, so it comes in handy. This also allows me to utilize the thermal mass of my RDWC to flatten peak loads, another power saver I've already discussed.

Temperature is controlled in the grow rooms by the environmental control system, so that aspect is exactly the same as if it were AC. Rather than cycling AC, the controller runs the air handler in the room, much like a standalone AC or a minisplit.

I do realize the additional complexity involved, but I really don't think it's at a level beyond indoor growers who can wire up a 30Amp board for their lights. This goes double for anyone who plays with hydroponics, as hose and clamps should really be second nature by now! I'm all for reduced effort and better returns, and I do see your point about this taking a bit more time- although, not as much as you suggest. What's the return?

First, you buy half the capacity. Second, it DOES NOT RUN without a load, whereas AC must keep running to maintain a given condition. Third, I dehuey. Fourth, I chill my RDWC. Fifth, I HEAT MY HOUSE WITH IT.

All the above benefits add up to a big fat wad of CASH in my pocket that did not go to buy more equipment or pay peer bills- electricity OR gas!- and far greater flexibility than users of AC can imagine.

It's your money. Spend it how you like. Just don't think water chilling is somehow a substandard choice to acc, because the facts are in; when it comes to cooling high performance sealed indoor growing spaces, water chilling is the Cadillac, and AC is the broke ass ol' Chevy.

 

[budleydoright]

With respect, so many of your objections to the use of water chilling betray a basic lack of understanding about how it works that I simply question your statement that you 'do totally understand WC and chillers'.

That's funny I don't object to using WC. I think it's great that you have it working well. I just don't think your advice to others regarding airconditioning comes with any experience working with it. I don't believe that 3-8" iceboxes with 60 degree water would have the abillity to dehumidify the same space as a freon based evaporator. You claim over and over that it handles it all and that an AC can't, when the truth is the AC handles the load as well and is a more effective dehumidifier. You are actually the first person that I have come across that didn't regret buying a small chiller and iceboxes instead of a split because they had to run a dehumidifier 100% of the time.

So just to break down my experience.

I have indeed used water cooling. Both iceboxes, home made ice boxes, fresca sol water cooled light jackets. Have built 2 of my own chillers one quite gettolicious the other quite pro.
I use water cooled Co2 currently.

I run 2 18k air conditioners cooling 7k in the summer and up to 10k in the winter (it hit 70 today though). That's flower only. No flip.

I've done dwc, rdwc, flood n drain, top feed and drain to waste.

My pops caught me growing my first plant in the early 70's in our familys attick. Been doing it on and off since.

I've dropped more on the floor than most people will ever grow.

Again , great dialog. A little back and forth in an open forum is good.

 

[The Meadows]

My pops caught me growing my first plant in the early 70's in our familys attick. Been doing it on and off since.

Again , great dialog. A little back and forth in an open forum is good.

My pops taught me growing in the mid 70's in our familys laundry room. Been doing it on and off since.

I normally hibernate during the summer. Running constantly, my central a/c can get my house 25°F cooler than outdoors. My flower area gets 10°F warmer than the rest of the house. But it get over 115°F outdoors more often than I like. A typical summer day will have 10% humidity. A hot day will half that.

I duct my hoods into the attic. I have a portable 8500 btu a/c for emergencies but its a power hog and doesn't do too much.

I was leaning towards an evaporative cooler as an alternative to another portable a/c. Now I have to consider water cooling. I still wanna hear more gooder idears.

 

[seebobski]

One point I disagree with. Every chiller should have one. If you don't keep getting water through the coils they will freeze and rupture the tubing in the heat exchange.

Just like if a fan fails on an air conditioners and dehumidifiers it will freeze the evaporation coil . It fatigues the metal and then leaks the refrigerant.

Hope you don't have a leak when you're gone and come back to a flood and a dead chiller. Where did you get your information from about no flow switches ?

 

[Ttystikk]

I missed a few posts, responses

I missed a few posts, responses

Refrigerant to air is less efficient than refrigerant to water, this is true, but you go from water to air so the effeciency that you are quoting is not exactly as stated. Again, don't get me wrong I'm enjoying the dialog and wouldn't go on if I didn't hope to gain something.

We are in simular climates, your's a bit colder. I can't imagine that your 24k unit will handle 12k bare in the summer. If it does that's awsome but my math says no way!

The difference is that the water core is in the room, I think... To get into the weeds about why chilling is more efficient, I'll admit I'm not certain of the exact mechanism, just that it works. Well. If forced to guess, I'd say it has to do with water's thermal mass.

Your math and mine agree on this point. I have a second 2 Ton ChillKing and it's been in use since my conversion from sealed n vented hoods to bare vertical silos started.

I missed this post last night, and subsequent posts began to get a bit defensive as I got tired. Sorry about that!

Also tysticks experience with 8k on a flip was in vented hoods. So not true 32k btu heat load. Wait for his update after summer goes! And to clarify are you doing 6k or 12k on flip bare?

Man, I get tired of people quibbling. YES, of course it was a full heat load- the fact that I was smart enough to use more than one cooling option at a time should be considered a good thing. Besides, this cheat is available to AC users, too.

I've run this setup for several summers and it worked fine to remove heat.

That's funny I don't object to using WC. I think it's great that you have it working well. I just don't think your advice to others regarding airconditioning comes with any experience working with it. I don't believe that 3-8" iceboxes with 60 degree water would have the abillity to dehumidify the same space as a freon based evaporator. You claim over and over that it handles it all and that an AC can't, when the truth is the AC handles the load as well and is a more effective dehumidifier. You are actually the first person that I have come across that didn't regret buying a small chiller and iceboxes instead of a split because they had to run a dehumidifier 100% of the time.

So just to break down my experience.

I have indeed used water cooling. Both iceboxes, home made ice boxes, fresca sol water cooled light jackets. Have built 2 of my own chillers one quite gettolicious the other quite pro.
I use water cooled Co2 currently.

I run 2 18k air conditioners cooling 7k in the summer and up to 10k in the winter (it hit 70 today though). That's flower only. No flip.

I've done dwc, rdwc, flood n drain, top feed and drain to waste.

My pops caught me growing my first plant in the early 70's in our familys attick. Been doing it on and off since.

I've dropped more on the floor than most people will ever grow.

Again , great dialog. A little back and forth in an open forum is good.

Quite right, and again I apologize for getting testy last night!

2 Tons is only small if one does not know how to get the most from it. This is not my problem, lol

Air conditioning indeed does an excellent job of dehumidifying spaces, too well most of the time! The advantage to water chilling is that the level of dehumidification is much more controllable, IME. I live in an arid high altitude climate, which makes things worse for AC both for cooling and dehuey.

8" Iceboxes are very good units, again, provided one knows what they're doing. PUSH hot air through them, never attempt to pull it; this makes a drastic difference straightaway! They are at their best cooling air in a sealed space, and don't let their small size fool you; three of them consistently kept a room full of 8kW in sealed n vented Magnum xxxl Ochos firmly under control. They work fine to cool living spaces too, turns out us humans don't run as hot as thouies, lol

My pops taught me growing in the mid 70's in our familys laundry room. Been doing it on and off since.

I normally hibernate during the summer. Running constantly, my central a/c can get my house 25°F cooler than outdoors. My flower area gets 10°F warmer than the rest of the house. But it get over 115°F outdoors more often than I like. A typical summer day will have 10% humidity. A hot day will half that.

I duct my hoods into the attic. I have a portable 8500 btu a/c for emergencies but its a power hog and doesn't do too much.

I was leaning towards an evaporative cooler as an alternative to another portable a/c. Now I have to consider water cooling. I still wanna hear more gooder idears.

You want a swamp/evaporative cooler first to deal with your arid climate situation in an open and ventilated room. IF you seal your grow, then water chilling will begin to make more sense.

One point I disagree with. Every chiller should have one. If you don't keep getting water through the coils they will freeze and rupture the tubing in the heat exchange.

Just like if a fan fails on an air conditioners and dehumidifiers it will freeze the evaporation coil . It fatigues the metal and then leaks the refrigerant.

Hope you don't have a leak when you're gone and come back to a flood and a dead chiller. Where did you get your information from about no flow switches ?

ChillKing built their units with freeze protection. It works... If it did not have this feature, I would have followed your advice- and I may anyway, just for insurance.

My information about noflow/nogo switches came from the manufacturer, with the instructions included in the water cooled CO² burner. By the way, THIS is what I told people not to run in their chiller circuit! A 'water cooled CO² burner' is just a fancy way of saying 'propane/natural gas fueled tankless water heater!' That's a lot of heat it makes no sense to cool just to save a few pints of water. Thus, the exception to what I would recommend people spend money running a compressor to actively chill. The switch is another story, although I don't currently use one.

 

[seebobski]

No flow-no go will also provide safeguard for your pump. The seals in most impeller style pumps will fail if ran dry. Hell add a relay to the design of controller and add flood sensors. For what I call my "no flow or overflow won't go" so my pump and chillers shut down if a leek in room or loss of flow out the second chiller.


But I've said elsewhere chillers are for people that have a good sense of diy in there blood. Window ac= good n cheap or split ac =great and higher seer rating and options for variable frequency drives! The chiller competes with the best split if setup right.

 

[budleydoright]

But I've said elsewhere chillers are for people that have a good sense of diy in there blood. Window ac= good n cheap or split ac =great and higher seer rating and options for variable frequency drives! The chiller competes with the best split if setup right.

Well put.