About to use the coot mix

[Eureka Springs Organics]

Coots mix is just exemplary. It is just a basic mix of compost or vermicompost at approximately 1/3 with 1/3 sphagnum peatmoss and 1/3 drainage material. This basic mix arose from me and from Cornell. However I prefer less drainage material myself going closer to 15%. There is zero reason to use any dolomite or oyster powder for reasons of offsetting the pH in peatmoss, however I like to use oyster shell and some rock powders for their calcium and mineral content.
Any way to this base Coot adds the following to each cubic foot of potting soil mix:
1 cup kelp meal
1 cup neem meal
1 cup crab meal
4 cups Basalt

He planted directly into this. Cooking was invented by others so far as I know.


My mix (previously included rock phosphate but I only use it now if I am rich because the price has sky rocketed);
39 to 40% vermicompost sometimes blended with topsoil or compost; 39 to 40% low grade Premier sphagnum peatmoss; 13% multi-colored pea gravel. Presently I use rock dust which I get for free and tested against heavy metals at around 1%, homemade biochar from fir/pine shavings at 6 to 8% and add to every 4.6 cubic feet (wheelbarrow) coarse oyster shell 3 cups, kelpmeal 2 cups, rock phosphate 2 cups (if used) and occasionally 1/2 cup of alfalfameal.

So are you using the ph buffering of your composted material (which is at a much higher rate than most) to keep your ph in check?

 

[LBOrganic]

So I just mixed it all up. On hand I have some extra alfalfa meal and insect frass a small amount of both might not hurt? Anyone else think Sul po mag would be good? At what rate? Also I do have some flax seed meal too.

 

[umbralindigo]

Go and google Lumperdawg, Lumperdawgz, Lumperdawgz2. It will pull up Grasscity. Look into this mix, it will not only give you ideas, but tell you what amounts should be used.

This IMO is a great starting place, even more so than Coot's newest mix.

I used a short 1/4 cup per cubic foot of Sul-Po-Mag. It IS powerful, do not underestimate if you choose to use. and also, it will take a couple runs, before it truly kicks in.

Alfalfa meal can be powerful too, I would recommend going short on any of that used, especially since you have the three part base mixed already. But the "proper" way to use alfalfa is as a mix in, or top dress.
Def use the flax seed meal. Next to alfalfa (which has the strongest growth (regulator?) triaconatol) Flax seed meal will impart the next greatest PGR lineolic acid into your mix. On top of all that, usually you can get local flax from a health food store which makes it better than other mined or flown in nutrient amendments IMO.

These together will show you fast and robust growth rates. That's just what I've seen.

 

[milkyjoe]

Almost all flax seed crops are desiccated with round up these days. Nothing is worth putting that shit in your mix.

 

[Microbeman]

So are you using the ph buffering of your composted material (which is at a much higher rate than most) to keep your ph in check?

You could say that is how it works out. Even sphagnum peatmoss has a fairly high volume of composted/humus material. IMO in a natural growing environment it is the established relationship between microorganisms and roots which 'tune' the pH. Generally speaking fungi trends to acidic and bacteria to alkaline and root acids also play a role.

One can hypothesize that, a properly balanced microbial population considering the needs of the resident plants, will manipulate the pH in the soil solution to benefit the parties concerned.

It has been my experience that most container or bed gardens I've established as 'living entities' with annuals have ended up balanced some where around 6.4 pH.

 

[Eureka Springs Organics]

You could say that is how it works out. Even sphagnum peatmoss has a fairly high volume of composted/humus material. IMO in a natural growing environment it is the established relationship between microorganisms and roots which 'tune' the pH. Generally speaking fungi trends to acidic and bacteria to alkaline and root acids also play a role.

One can hypothesize that, a properly balanced microbial population considering the needs of the resident plants, will manipulate the pH in the soil solution to benefit the parties concerned.

It has been my experience that most container or bed gardens I've established as 'living entities' with annuals have ended up balanced some where around 6.4 pH.

Thanks for the info. I do remember you saying about all of your soils balancing out to 6.4.

 

[milkyjoe]

I totally agree with MM. They may be a little acid at first but the microbes balance it out after a while. I don't even look at soil pH anymore. And even at first if you have good compost you have plenty of humic material which buffers pH for you.

 

[umbralindigo]

Milkyjoe. So are you saying a verified flax crop is going to have round up on it?

 

[umbralindigo]

Verified organic. I meant. Damn this no edit carp.

 

[LBOrganic]

Thanks for the help everyone

Im gonna start out in half gallon pots of separate clone mix and then go into 5 gallons for the rest. Anybody have a good mix they put there clones into first before going into a bigger pot?

 

[paint4420]

Curious about a cheap ready to go veg mix. Something I can use while my super duper, high brix, all organic shmanic, microbial activated, naturally chelated, soil cooks. Ya know?

 

[umbralindigo]

I have been personally using pro mix ultimate organic mix which is based on shrimp.meal compost and has very little perlite and is fairly inexpensive when found at hardware stores or greenhouse supply.

 

[umbralindigo]

When I am using it in veg and not cloning or seedlings I add 1/2 cup of rock dust and a bit of kelp per 1 cu ft.

 

[surfguitar]

For seeds or clones 1/3 peat/compst/aeration and liming mix at 2tb per gal of that(i use 50/50 gypsum/osf)

If you're gonna veg and want a mix while your main mix is resting just cut cc's recipe by like 1/4 and let that sit for a couple days before using.

@MM, interesting that your mix(with srp added) is very similar to Yosemitesam's high brix mix he recommended me. Doing that versus coots mix and so far the plants seem to favor that one just a bit, hard to tell just yet tho.

 

[milkyjoe]

Verified organic. I meant. Damn this no edit carp.

It should not...but I would be suspicious anyways. I would want to damn sure know who it is from.

 

[bigshrimp]

My mix (previously included rock phosphate but I only use it now if I am rich because the price has sky rocketed);
39 to 40% vermicompost sometimes blended with topsoil or compost; 39 to 40% low grade Premier sphagnum peatmoss; 13% multi-colored pea gravel. Presently I use rock dust which I get for free and tested against heavy metals at around 1%, homemade biochar from fir/pine shavings at 6 to 8% and add to every 4.6 cubic feet (wheelbarrow) coarse oyster shell 3 cups, kelpmeal 2 cups, rock phosphate 2 cups (if used) and occasionally 1/2 cup of alfalfameal.

You gotta have compost piles to the moon for a mix like that!

 

[milkyjoe]

Thanks for the help everyone

Im gonna start out in half gallon pots of separate clone mix and then go into 5 gallons for the rest. Anybody have a good mix they put there clones into first before going into a bigger pot?

I would go straight to the 5 gallon pots. The roots will move out faster and the bottom branches will follow the roots. You will get a bushier plant naturally.

And if I were using 5 gallon pots I would alternate them. The grow and then the others I would throw all the fans and stems into and then add a cover crop...a grass and a legume. You can really make your soil better in a hurry that way.

 

[Microbeman]

You gotta have compost piles to the moon for a mix like that!

Initially but if you consider it as a permanent soil, it balances in the end.

 

[bigshrimp]

MM

Could you describe your vermicompost? I take it is a lighter texture, and that bagged ewc wouldn't be suitable for a mix like that. This is outdoor beds too?

I sometimes forget that i really should just be building huge compost piles.

 

[Microbeman]

MM

Could you describe your vermicompost? I take it is a lighter texture, and that bagged ewc wouldn't be suitable for a mix like that. This is outdoor beds too?

I sometimes forget that i really should just be building huge compost piles.

Vermicompost pile before any screening or processing; often used as is rocks and all for mixes

VC picked through to be used for CT.