Another update: The 2/3 rate of my Original Orthene+Riptide still works. After trying everything "OMRI listed", a local 30+ light "organic" grower used my "chem recipe" to eradicate Root Aphids...and "would do it again" (his words).
What sold him was the minimal effect acephate had on the microherd and its tiny half-life--
"A Hanford loamy sand, a Domino silt loam, and an Altamont clay loam were treated separately with three repeated applications (20 ppm) of the organophosphate insecticides, acephate (O,S-dimethyl acetylphosphoramidothioate) and Monitor (O,S-dimethyl phosphoramidothioate) over a 50-day time span. Population levels of actinomycetes, bacteria, and fungi were not substantially affected by the addition of either pesticide. Neither could a marked effect be shown upon ammonification, nitrification, sulfur oxidation, or respiration rates. Replica plating failed to isolate bacteria from soils that were adversely affected by either pesticide. It is concluded that neither acephate nor Monitor had any adverse effect upon soil microorganisms."
Source: https://www.agronomy.org/publications/jeq/abstracts/3/4/JEQ0030040327?access=0&view=pdf
Acephate has a soil half-life 0.5 to 3 days and is not a systemic...unlike Imid, with a "soil half-life" of 26.5-229 days or a "hydro half-life" of 997 days.
See report....http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/emon/pubs/fatememo/acephate.pdf
Eclipse's Revised Orthene + Riptide routine (very effective for soil mediums--mixed results for hydro mediums):
1 gallon water
2.29 grams Orthene (97.4% Acephate)...1 gram = 1 ml, more or less.
2.5 ml Riptide (5% pyrethrin, 25% PBO)
1. Let the grow medium dry out first, do not use if grow medium is wet/super moist.
2. Dunk for 20-30 minutes (bottom first, let the container sink and then submerge it such that the container lip/grow medium is submerged by 1".
3. Drain, no flushing, no rinsing, no nutes.
4. Let grow medium dry out a bit before first feeding...first feeding brews consisting of minerals, nutrients or bacteria seem to be more beneficial than concoctions of "everything". DO NOT ADD ZYMES TO THE FIRST FEEDING; it seems there is an increase in "plant lock-up" (some plant fatality) if zymes are introduced 10-14 days following many pesticide dunks.
5. Foliar spray with a root growth booster for a few days, 1-2x daily.
My favorite rooting spray (for clones, seedlings, fussy pussies, etc) is:
1 gallon water
7.5 ml Rhizotonic
0.25 grams Urea
Adding Urea to a foliar spray has shown to increase plant's uptake of the spray's active ingredient (it takes between 30 minutes and 2 hours before 50% of Urea's nitrogen is absorbed into the plant's tissue).
Final thoughts--those big 18 gallon party buckets (for ice & beer bottles) make great dunking containers...a few of em can certainly speed up the dunking time for those with a "goodly number" of 5 gallon sized growing containers (and cheap too!) If the grow medium is loaded with other poisons/pesticides from prior attempts, I would flush well and let the grow medium dry out...before attempting my Orthene + Riptide cocktail (think soup, salt...and too many chefs). Drier the grow medium before dunking--the better (zero fatalities), wet grow medium seems to be no bueno! No enzymes for at least 2 weeks...as "plant lock up" seems to be the common result.
Feel free to PM any questions...btw, still Root Aphid FREE! (knocks on wood)
Cheers!
What sold him was the minimal effect acephate had on the microherd and its tiny half-life--
"A Hanford loamy sand, a Domino silt loam, and an Altamont clay loam were treated separately with three repeated applications (20 ppm) of the organophosphate insecticides, acephate (O,S-dimethyl acetylphosphoramidothioate) and Monitor (O,S-dimethyl phosphoramidothioate) over a 50-day time span. Population levels of actinomycetes, bacteria, and fungi were not substantially affected by the addition of either pesticide. Neither could a marked effect be shown upon ammonification, nitrification, sulfur oxidation, or respiration rates. Replica plating failed to isolate bacteria from soils that were adversely affected by either pesticide. It is concluded that neither acephate nor Monitor had any adverse effect upon soil microorganisms."
Source: https://www.agronomy.org/publications/jeq/abstracts/3/4/JEQ0030040327?access=0&view=pdf
Acephate has a soil half-life 0.5 to 3 days and is not a systemic...unlike Imid, with a "soil half-life" of 26.5-229 days or a "hydro half-life" of 997 days.
See report....http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/emon/pubs/fatememo/acephate.pdf
Eclipse's Revised Orthene + Riptide routine (very effective for soil mediums--mixed results for hydro mediums):
1 gallon water
2.29 grams Orthene (97.4% Acephate)...1 gram = 1 ml, more or less.
2.5 ml Riptide (5% pyrethrin, 25% PBO)
1. Let the grow medium dry out first, do not use if grow medium is wet/super moist.
2. Dunk for 20-30 minutes (bottom first, let the container sink and then submerge it such that the container lip/grow medium is submerged by 1".
3. Drain, no flushing, no rinsing, no nutes.
4. Let grow medium dry out a bit before first feeding...first feeding brews consisting of minerals, nutrients or bacteria seem to be more beneficial than concoctions of "everything". DO NOT ADD ZYMES TO THE FIRST FEEDING; it seems there is an increase in "plant lock-up" (some plant fatality) if zymes are introduced 10-14 days following many pesticide dunks.
5. Foliar spray with a root growth booster for a few days, 1-2x daily.
My favorite rooting spray (for clones, seedlings, fussy pussies, etc) is:
1 gallon water
7.5 ml Rhizotonic
0.25 grams Urea
Adding Urea to a foliar spray has shown to increase plant's uptake of the spray's active ingredient (it takes between 30 minutes and 2 hours before 50% of Urea's nitrogen is absorbed into the plant's tissue).
Final thoughts--those big 18 gallon party buckets (for ice & beer bottles) make great dunking containers...a few of em can certainly speed up the dunking time for those with a "goodly number" of 5 gallon sized growing containers (and cheap too!) If the grow medium is loaded with other poisons/pesticides from prior attempts, I would flush well and let the grow medium dry out...before attempting my Orthene + Riptide cocktail (think soup, salt...and too many chefs). Drier the grow medium before dunking--the better (zero fatalities), wet grow medium seems to be no bueno! No enzymes for at least 2 weeks...as "plant lock up" seems to be the common result.
Feel free to PM any questions...btw, still Root Aphid FREE! (knocks on wood)
Cheers!
