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Farm Life With Snype!

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Team Microbe

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hmmmm.. that's interesting. You'd think seeds would give more vigor...

maybe it has something to do with the genetics growing a-custom to the environment they're being grown in or something... I know that's the case for seeds but I'm not sure about clones. Now I wanna know... haha
 

theHIGHlander

european ganja growers
Veteran
Even having a cross with OG nl5 is a win , that shit will rip ya face of lol...old skool sensi lines is like finding hens teeth, its just not happening...is that no the era when Neville was breeding for sensi...

Might be worth asking Sam aka skunkman if he has any info on the skunk / Colombian gold.....Sam woulda new were his skunk lines were used back in the day.....it could also be a Neville creation no?

As I said bruv,,,I got my popcorn and locked in for the show

Keep it green
Highlander...
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
Even having a cross with OG nl5 is a win , that shit will rip ya face of lol...old skool sensi lines is like finding hens teeth, its just not happening...is that no the era when Neville was breeding for sensi...

Might be worth asking Sam aka skunkman if he has any info on the skunk / Colombian gold.....Sam woulda new were his skunk lines were used back in the day.....it could also be a Neville creation no?

As I said bruv,,,I got my popcorn and locked in for the show

Keep it green
Highlander...

Sensi had some great things back then. Everything that I got from them 5 years ago wasn't the same as before. The Columbian that "the old guy" used was from the best Columbian Gold buds that he had in 1973. Those weren't from anyone else. I'm not sure if you know but the Skunk1 also has Columbian in it as well. Not sure who made the skunk but I'm sure there's many stories. I just want to smoke some J1.
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
i must have missed this in your curing method but when do you trim?

This is taken from my harvesting thread:

Harvesting and Drying
Harvesting and drying can be tricky when you are still learning this process. Some growers choose to hang the plants whole while keeping all the leaves on the plant until the plant is dry before they cut off the leaves and manicure the buds. Personally I never agreed with that approach. It is much more difficult to manicure your buds in this manner because of how close you have to get to the buds when the buds are dry and more brittle. When your leaves are dry, when you trim them, you will not get anymore shrinkage from the drying process which makes you have to get closer to the bud and risk more trichome damage and or loss. Manicuring the buds at the time of harvest can be faster and allows the wet pieces of leaves that you left after you made your cuts, to shrink into the bud and have a more naked look without damaging your precious trichomes.

Personally, I like to leave certain bud leaves on the buds to protect the valuable trichomes and it also adds a great look to the buds but people in my market want fully naked buds and I have to please my market. I harvest my plants in easy to manage branches. Harvesting goes a lot faster this way as it is easier to spin the bud with your left hand while you are cutting with your right (if left handed then it’s the opposite). When you have a big branch that contains multiple branches, it is a slower process because the branch is harder to hold and maintain a spin while you are trimming. As Im cutting branches off of my plants, I am putting them into mason jar cardboard boxes to collect them to the harvest room. I always trim all of the big fan leaves off of the branch first and then work my way from bottom to top of the branch. As I’m working, I’m spinning the branch with my left hand. When I’m trimming the special bud leaves, I’m not cutting one leaf at a time. Where ever I can, I cut sections of leaves with a precision pruner that has a spring in it so all you have to do is press it down and it springs back up for you. Certain 3 fingered leaves and greater, need to be cut at the base of the stem so you do not get that stem hanging out of your dry bud making it look like a low end product. You could come back when the bud is dry and look for them to cut off but this will take you more time and it is easy to miss some of them. Not all 3 fingered special bud leaves need to be cut at the base of the stem. You will have to make a judgment call on which leaves need to be cut at the base and which do not. As long as you cannot see the stem, then that will be a good judge of which ones to cut off at the base and which you don’t need to. As I am finishing manicuring branches, I am placing them into another cardboard box but not stacking them too high. I am always careful not to flatten them so they look like perfect buds. Once my stack of manicured branches is getting heavy, I hang them onto coat hangers to dry. I originally took into account when I cut the branches off of the plant, to leave a triangle section so that I can hang the branches to dry without the use of clothespins. On branches where this is not possible, I simply hang the branch by the most bottom bud on that branch. On very small buds, I don’t hang, I just place them into a cardboard box to dry. When I am hanging bigger top buds that contain a lot of water, I don’t allow those buds to touch each other. However, on most of the other branches, I hang them so they are right on top of each other in up to 2 rows on each hanger. Smaller buds dry faster than big tops and as these buds dry they shrink and don’t sit on the branch as much as when you first put them on. I do it this way so that I can try to dry out my buds slower and get a better tasting product. I harvest all the tops of the plants first and then I move on to mids and bottoms. I hang all of the tops together on each coat hanger. When I hang up the coat hangers containing the main tops, I don’t let those touch the other coat hangers but I keep them as close together as I can without them touching. On the coat hangers with the smaller buds, I let the buds touch the next coat hangers slightly so that they will dry slower.

I hang the buds until they are first dry to the touch. That means that when you touch the buds on the hangers, they are dry on the outside but still soak and wet on the inside. You don’t want your buds to take too long to dry and you also don’t want them to dry out in a short time either. The period that I use for how long I want the buds to dry to the point when it is first dry to the touch is 5 days at the earliest and 9 days at the latest. The more times that you harvest, you get a feel for when things well take longer or shorter so you either add a fan when you need to, to make them dry faster if it is taking too long or you stack them closer together and enclose them in a smaller space if they are drying out too fast. I never use dehumidifiers to dry out my buds and would suggest not doing this unless you are pulling over 10 pounds a crop. If you are using a dehumidifier only use it for short periods of time to get things along and then you can use fans. For all periods that you are using fans, only use them if the buds are soak and wet and only for up to 12 hour periods with a 12 hour break in between if you even need to use it again.


Harvesting continued in the next post...
 

theHIGHlander

european ganja growers
Veteran
Might still be worth asking Sam about the skunk..might have awe bit more background info...not that it's a big deal because at the end of the days it's all about the bud not the name:joint:

Keep it green
Highlander
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
picture.php


These are some of the jars that I use. I have many of them. I don't use the jar with the silver cap anymore. I didn't like it.

The big jar on the left holds 1.5 - 2 pounds. It is 4 Gallon Ball Ideal and then don't make them anymore.

The next jar holds 3/4 - 1 pound. It is a 2 Gallon Ball Ideal and they also don't make these anymore as well.

The one with the silver top is probably 1 gallon also made by Ball. The lid sucked so I don't use those anymore.

There's a Ball Half gallon wide mouth jar that I use that holds 3-4 oz.

The next jar in the picture holds 2 oz followed by a jar that holds1 oz of bud.

Once my product is cured, I air seal the wide mouth jars with a food saver and wide mouth attachment. I've had it since the late 90's.
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
A couple more J1's sprouted!

A few F13's sprouted as well.

All Sour Diesel IBL's sprouted within 48 hours!

All BYTCH x Sour Diesel also sprouted and were the fastest to pop with a longer root.

I can't really tend to this new seed crop as often as I would like because I have other work I also have to do and I can't be everywhere at once. So any plants that give me problems I will just have to get rid of. Only exception might be the J1's.
 

frankenstein2

Astronaut Status
Veteran
That cat is awesome!!!!!! My old lady and her girls really want one. I also like your harvesting and drying procedure. It's like you typed it while I dictated to you, lol!!
 

Catatafish

Active member
Veteran
Yea, that cat is bad ass looking.

I have been clearing walmart out of the half gallon ball jars. They seem to only come around once a year or so. Certain ACE stores sometimes have them as well. They are the best i can really find around here. Snype is dead on with the volume on it.
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
The cat is a Bengal. Her mother was a show cat. We crossed her to a siamese and got a silver spotted one and 3 white spotted ones. Here's some pics if you haven't seen them:

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Snypette

Member
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haha i took these so long ago. yes we are cat people and i guess i am technically a cat lady. uh oh!:D

must.stop.rescuing.cats. or ill end up an old lady with twenty cats drinking out of little china dishes:cathug:
 

Snype

Active member
Veteran
Those of you who have followed me throughout the years know that I have an eye problem that came about a few years ago. Well it has only gotten worse and now I have the problem in both eyes and it's getting much harder to do anything but keep my eyes closed and lay in bed. Because of this I might have to leave the internet or at least take a long break to try and save what ever eye that I have left. I basically have blisters in my retina and I when I open my eyes, I am seeing the world through cloudy blisters which makes things look very different and no definition and everything is bubble-like with some missing spots. Maybe you guys will understand because the people around me don't seem to understand how bad this is.

Maybe you guys can try and help me by doing some research and maybe you can find a way to fix this. I can't read anymore.

My condition is called Central Serous Retinopathy (CSR) and I've had this condition in my right eye for at least 3 years now and I just got the condition in my left eye yesterday. So now both my eyes have this condition. I couldn't even watch the Patriots game yesterday. If anyone can do some research on this condition and see if you can find a way to fix it without the use of lasers. Lasers in the eye can create more damage and worse scaring but doctors will tell you to go that route. I think this condition may be caused by stress but I don't think anyone knows why people get this but it tends to affect people with Type-A personalities which is the personality that I have which brings much stress. If anyone finds anything out about how to fix this condition, please let me know.

About 6 months ago there was a clinical trial for this condition in NY but I don't know what happened with that. There must be someone in the world that knows something about this. There are also online forums with people who have this condition with people talking about it. I think one of the forums is available on yahoo.
 

Crooked8

Well-known member
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
transpupillary thermotherapy is supposedly a go to instead of laser therapy for a chronic condition which it sounds like you have.
Transpupillary thermotherapy (TTT) is a non-invasive treatment option for malignant choroidal melanoma and choroidal neovascularization (CNV) in age-related macular degeneration (ARMD). It can be considered as a cost-saving treatment, preventing surgical intervention. Up to now the energy level for TTT in CNV has not been clearly defined. Therefore over-treatment (inducing a retinal scar) as well as undertreatment (persistence of CNV) is possible. This may be the main cause for not using TTT as a preferred treatment for wet ARMD. Over the last 2 years the use of TTT for CNV has experienced a slight revival. In some studies a sub-threshold or low-dose TTT has been applied alone or in combination with intravitreal triamcinolone acetonide (iVTA) or vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) inhibitors. In several studies TTT for the treatment of malignant choroidal melanoma has been shown to be safe as a unique treatment for small choroidal tumors or as an adjuvant treatment for larger choroidal tumors (‘sandwich technique’). Not a ton of info out there im gonna keep researching. I have medical field buddies as well and ill ask about this.
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
I'll go ahead and ask around also snype. Never heard of what you have, but I have a very rare nerve condition myself. Only upside is that has gotten me introduced to some pretty knowledgeable people (top doctors in their respective fields, "natural" healers, nutritionist, etc). I'll see if I can't find out something useful. Sincerely hope you don't have to leave the online community, your contributions here are extremely valuable :respect:.
 
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