Biobizz EC Values

[fatass]

I've seen some question about it so here is a list - hope someone will find it useful

The EC Values are for 1 ml\lt take on RO water - I'm sure it is not fully accurate by it can give you the general idea if you don't have an EC meter

BioGrow 0.35
BioBloow 0.11
TopMax 0.0..
Alg-A-mic 0.35
BoiHeaven - 0.9

 

[The_Core]

1 ML of BioHeaven is almost an EC of 1 all by itself?!?, WTF. I am adding water to my mix to drop the PPMs and avoid over fertilization, when all I have to do is steer clear of BioHeaven. BioHeaven is raising the EC too high, and not providing enough for the plant, so although it looks like the plant is being pushed the right PPMs or EC, most of it is actually coming from BioHeaven and BioHeaven does not do much for the plant in the first place.

 

[The_Core]

I measured BioHeaven today

With 1/2 Liter of water at PH 7.9
72 Degrees F
90 PPM

I then added 2ML of BioHeaven to the 1/2 Liter of 90 ppm tap water. I got a bluelab reading of 420 ppm OR EC 0.85

Since the dosage is 2ML per Liter of water I added another 500 ML of water and cut the EC value in half. (210 PPM or EC 0.42)

So its 0.4 EC value for 2ML/Liter of BioHeaven and 90 PPM tap water together.

Remove the tap water and use 0 PPM RO water and you will be at 120 PPMs or EC 0.25.

Our measurements are different but then again it is very possible that nutrient strengths have changed in the last couple years. There are many factors.

 

[Mister_D]

I measured BioHeaven today

With 1/2 Liter of water at PH 7.9
72 Degrees F
90 PPM

I then added 2ML of BioHeaven to the 1/2 Liter of 90 ppm tap water. I got a bluelab reading of 420 ppm OR EC 0.85

Since the dosage is 2ML per Liter of water I added another 500 ML of water and cut the EC value in half. (210 PPM or EC 0.42)

So its 0.4 EC value for 2ML/Liter of BioHeaven and 90 PPM tap water together.

Remove the tap water and use 0 PPM RO water and you will be at 120 PPMs or EC 0.25.

Our measurements are different but then again it is very possible that nutrient strengths have changed in the last couple years. There are many factors.

You forgot to take into consideration that some of the 90ppm in your tap water reacted with/locked out other nutes in the bioheaven. It is incorrect to just subtract 90ppm from your reading. To truly know how much a nute is adding to your water it must be measured with RO or distilled so no lock out/reactions can occur. Also just because an additive raises your ppm/EC doesn't necessarily mean you need to use less nutes. You can add sugar to water and skyrocket the ppm's, doesn't mean your plants will burn up. It's important for people to recognize the difference between the ppm/EC nutes and additives with nutes add, and the ppm/EC that non-fertilizer additives might toss in the mix. Nutrient ppm is what you want to be concerned with. Truly understanding all of this is beyond the scope of one post, but if a person studies water chemistry and nutrient antagonists, a lot of the hows and whys make much more sense.

 

[The_Core]

You forgot to take into consideration that some of the 90ppm in your tap water reacted with/locked out other nutes in the bioheaven. It is incorrect to just subtract 90ppm from your reading. To truly know how much a nute is adding to your water it must be measured with RO or distilled so no lock out/reactions can occur.

Your saying the PH of the starting water may interact with the chemicals in the BioBizz mix and not give correct EC readings?

That is food for thought.

 

[The_Core]

I think you might have a good point there. I will hook up my RO and re-do the readings. Not today though. And I will post the difference. I am curious how much of a difference my readings will be with the 90 ppm tap and the 10 ppm RO

 

[papaduc]

If you're talking about biobizz organic nutes, be aware that the grow formula registers pretty much the same on an ec pen as a hydro nute would, but the bloom doesn't. Don't be fooled by the low ec readings of the bloom formula; it's designed for soil.

In other words, you can use an EC pen to measure the grow feed accurately, but not the bloom. Go by the ml on that one.

 

[The_Core]

I think I am going to just follow the BioBizz feed Schedule. I am tired of worrying about EC. Some of their nutrient line has virtually no EC value, and some have alot, and some are normal. BioBizz is confusing. I am going to watch the PH going in and not worry about EC anymore. I will test the water and log it down but not worry so much about it.

 

[Granger2]

EC measurements on organics nutes don't work. Especially with BioBizz and other more crude nutes, meaning those that haven't been fermented to make the nutes more available. You're right. Forget the pen, and and go with the feed chart. Observe plant response and adjust accordingly. Good luck. -granger

 

[papaduc]

I agree. Except about the feed chart. Their guide is too strong.

You're best going by the ml per liter with organic feeds like biobizz. Start on 1ml of the veg feed and up it if the plants look hungry. EC measurements actually do work with the BB grow feed, but not the bloom. But all in all it's better to get into the right habits and using an ec pen for organic feeds is not the right way to go.

 

[The_Core]

EC measurements on organics nutes don't work. Especially with BioBizz and other more crude nutes, meaning those that haven't been fermented to make the nutes more available. You're right. Forget the pen, and and go with the feed chart. Observe plant response and adjust accordingly. Good luck. -granger

Thanks Granger, sounds good. I will still log down the EC and PH going in, but wont track EC like i was. I will follow their feed chart and just watch for signs of over fertilization. I am reading too much into EC and organics I think.

 

[The_Core]

I agree. Except about the feed chart. Their guide is too strong.

You're best going by the ml per liter with organic feeds like biobizz. Start on 1ml of the veg feed and up it if the plants look hungry. EC measurements actually do work with the BB grow feed, but not the bloom. But all in all it's better to get into the right habits and using an ec pen for organic feeds is not the right way to go.

Ya thats what was messing with me, I didnt add their full lineup and last time I was at 1120 PPMs. So this next watering we will see. I have had noticeable nutrient deficiencies since about day 18 after they broke the surface. I am hoping the next watering gets things on track.

 

[The_Core]

These were taken today. The plant is 28 days since it broke the surface. Tons of growth just not getting taller. Short fat little stem. Maybe its my bad job growing or the strain. Who knows. What do you guys think?

 

[papaduc]

She's actually lookin nice and stocky. Don't worry too much about her. See how she gets on over the next week or two on a ml or 2 of grow feed.

Make sure to keep the bulb cool btw. aim the fan at the bulb, not the plant

 

[The_Core]

She's actually lookin nice and stocky. Don't worry too much about her. See how she gets on over the next week or two on a ml or 2 of grow feed.

Make sure to keep the bulb cool btw. aim the fan at the bulb, not the plant

Thanks papaduc! The fan is kinda angled top of plant and light bulb. When I point this shitty clip fan at the light it drops all the way back and starts pointing straight up. So I have to angle it the way it is or its useless. I should get some rope and tie it how I want it maybe.

Its a really stocky plant with a thick stem, I did "break the hurd" That probably helped the stem beef up. Ya I am shooting for sunday to do my next feeding. I will see how it reacts monday morning and go from there. I might keep it in Veg until the end of January. 50 day Veg. And then flip to 12/12.

 

[papaduc]

Cool, if you can find some way to do that, definitely do. Those little ridges you see on the plant? That's usually caused by a bit the combination of wind and heat/aridity. They combine to make the humidity low directly around the leaf and that's what happens.

Thing is, it mimics things like mag def, because the ridges of the leaf raise and can yellow slightly, which makes it look very similar to interveinal chlorosis.

 

[The_Core]

Cool, if you can find some way to do that, definitely do. Those little ridges you see on the plant? That's usually caused by a bit the combination of wind and heat/aridity. They combine to make the humidity low directly around the leaf and that's what happens.

Thing is, it mimics things like mag def, because the ridges of the leaf raise and can yellow slightly, which makes it look very similar to interveinal chlorosis.

So instead of Magnesium your thinking it could be getting wind burned/heat stressed? How long would I have to remove my fan, before I started to see improvement? I never had this problem before. I had fans blowing right on some Super Lemon Haze and never had this problem. Its interesting.

On another note, What would you do in a situation where you didnt know if the plant was male or female and it was getting close to flower. Would you chop up the mother plant for clones and flip the clones to 12/12, or would you flip the plant to 12/12 and if its female chop it for clones? I don't want to waste anymore time that I don't have to!

 

[papaduc]

I can tell that the ridges in that plant shouldn't be there, put it that way. It's nothing major, but a little adjustment will sort it out. Within a few days it should iron itself out if the conditions are right. The new growth especially will look nice.

About the clones, it depends. If it's a time thing, take clones then flip the mother straight away. I mean if it's the only plant you've got and you need to fill a room with some females then you need to know soon as whether it's a male. At least then if it is female you've got clones coming straight up behind her which you can fill the room out with. If it's a male, you have to ditch everything and get more seeds in straight away.

If it's not your only plant then you can flip the clones and if it's a male then you can veg the known females a bit longer to fill the space.

If it's your only plant you're taking a gamble on potentially wasting your time vegging and waiting for the clones to root and then show sex, only to throw everything away. That'd be a sickener.

That's my opinion anyway, others might have different ideas.

 

[The_Core]

I can tell that the ridges in that plant shouldn't be there, put it that way. It's nothing major, but a little adjustment will sort it out. Within a few days it should iron itself out if the conditions are right. The new growth especially will look nice.

About the clones, it depends. If it's a time thing, take clones then flip the mother straight away. I mean if it's the only plant you've got and you need to fill a room with some females then you need to know soon as whether it's a male. At least then if it is female you've got clones coming straight up behind her which you can fill the room out with. If it's a male, you have to ditch everything and get more seeds in straight away.

If it's not your only plant then you can flip the clones and if it's a male then you can veg the known females a bit longer to fill the space.

If it's your only plant you're taking a gamble on potentially wasting your time vegging and waiting for the clones to root and then show sex, only to throw everything away. That'd be a sickener.

That's my opinion anyway, others might have different ideas.

That makes sense. I would hate to get a male after all of this but this grow was just to get the "greenthumb" going again. After this I am going to start a Feminized White Widow.

So best idea you think is to take clones, root them, then flip the mother/father and the clones to 12/12 at the same time, Flower everything at once. And if its a male toss all of it.

Makes sense. Can I just harvest the whole plant for clones and toss the plant and flower the clones, If they are male then toss them?

I was thinking to just cut up the whole plant I have now and make clones. What do you think?

 

[The_Core]

34 days veg, Plant is like 6 inches tall. 1.8 EC was last feeding. Next is 2.2

No way EC levels in chemical ferts and organics are anywhere near the same.