sick plants dont konw to do!

[OvergrowDaWorld]

Thank You guys.
It was definetly the strains. 5 strains are doing perfect. 2 strains are not.
The soil must have been too hot for them two.
Most of them are bouncing back after the t/p from solo cups to 1gln pots.
The smaller ones got burned bad, but the top growth is coming back on most.
I think it was the cups throwing off the ph alot. They were in them for 3 weeks.
I added 1 tsp Cal-Mag+ to a gln of water. PH'ed it to approx 6.3.
The damage is done to the bottoms but the new growth is looking good.
The bigger seedlings outgrew the damage and look great now.
Excited to make these:
Chemmy Jones x (Blueberry x SweetTooth)
Strawberry Dogshit x (Blueberry x SweetTooth)

Ive only ever used FFOF soil for every strain. Ive lost a few strains that way.
From now on Im always gonna use Light Warrior for seedlings... just incase.

 

[Bongstar420]

You still didnt say what you are using as ph down or what the actual nutrient load was for the media. Additionally, you did not mention the content of your water or the ph of the runoff. No understanding is gained here with blind fixes.

Addition of Cal/Mg would ameliorate mild excess P by generating Calcium phosphate and Magnesium phosphate as the nitrate is absorbed. Cal/Mg nitrate will raise the ph of your media as the plant uses it since plants exchange OH ions for NO3 at close 1:1 parity....

Or you could stop adding too much P in the first place by not doing the ph down gig (assuming you are using Phosphoric acid for that which you did not mention). The max average soluble P for plants that size is around 20-30ppm.

Those photographs did not show Calcium or Magnesium deficiencies BTW. Your water probably has all the Calcium that you need (50-150ppm). Wouldnt a bag of Magnesium sulfate be much more efficient and cost effective since that is all you probably need.

As an FYI, if you went to college for horticulture, you would find the instructors and industry leaders all do pretty much the same thing. They do not spend money or time in most cases adjusting the ph of working solutions (100-1000 gal mix tanks). They manage the Nitrogen schedule by using fertilizers with different ratios of Urea, Ammonia, and Nitrate. Ph adjusting is only applied in low nutrient situations like with cloning, directly after transplant, or in species that show metabolic problems with low nitrate formulae.

Here is a good example of a species that may actually benefit from using ph down instead of increasing relative proportions of Urea or Ammonia due to a metabolic configuration:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/hil-504.html

Cannabis likes Ammonia and does well on exclusively Ammonium based Nitrogen sources but Urea will work just as well with just a little less efficiency (more N gets vaped off from denitrifying bacteria using Urea vs Ammonium sources)

I almost never measure these things as I have established calculators that I use for mixing (against industry standards for horticulture). Part of the calculation is acidity. The tap water is ph ~7 with ~30ppm hardness. There is .7-.8ppm Fluoride, 6-17 ppm Sodium, 1ppm Copper, 3-4ppm Chloride, 6-13ppm Sulfate, and 4-8ppm Calcium (its excellent- Nearly RO). The data for the water source shows that the tap water is my most significant source of Sodium since I use very low amounts of organic fertilizers (usually contain Sodium far in excess of what the plant would need, the tap here still being in excess).

I dont ever look at ph of the working solution (because I dont run hydroponic cultures) though in the past it usually comes out at around 6 but can easily be 4.5-5 if I add a trace of Citric acid or it is concentrated. My runoff is always about 6.5 (just did a random check of runoff- ~6.5) even with huge amounts of carbonates (my Cal/Mg source being dolomite). I do not use Cal/Mg in working solutions though I used to. %95 of it comes from rock (Dolomite) which does not solubilize till the plant works on it. My total salt load is lowered while maintaining fully adequate nutrition. This makes over fertilization less of an issue.

Seeing your issue ameliorated is nice, but nothing has been learned aside from using a "less hot" mix which I find inadequate since I do not think that is most proper solution. You say it is was a strain dependent issue, which is partially true. You probably saw the two types that have lower Phosphate requirements (they probably wont yield as good or be as resinous but that is just conjecture based on some theories about Phosphate metabolism that Ive been thinking about) rather than lower TDS tolerance.

Thank You guys.
It was definetly the strains. 5 strains are doing perfect. 2 strains are not.
The soil must have been too hot for them two.
Most of them are bouncing back after the t/p from solo cups to 1gln pots.
The smaller ones got burned bad, but the top growth is coming back on most.
I think it was the cups throwing off the ph alot. They were in them for 3 weeks.
I added 1 tsp Cal-Mag+ to a gln of water. PH'ed it to approx 6.3.
The damage is done to the bottoms but the new growth is looking good.
The bigger seedlings outgrew the damage and look great now.
Excited to make these:
Chemmy Jones x (Blueberry x SweetTooth)
Strawberry Dogshit x (Blueberry x SweetTooth)

Ive only ever used FFOF soil for every strain. Ive lost a few strains that way.
From now on Im always gonna use Light Warrior for seedlings... just incase.

 

[papaduc]

Hey Fella!
Thank you so much man! I ordered some cannastart in addition to the cns17, it will come tomorrow.

I have been feeding the cheese plant pictured above and a 5 day seedling .8ec of cns17 with 1ml of rapid start per gallon. At 1.0ec the lower leaves started to get a slight discoloration at the tips and overall the plant looked dark green. I took your advise and knocked back the ec a bit and she looks great!
Today I walked into the grow room and it smelled like pot plants! The cns17 kicks ass. The new seedling started in it is rocking. I have a bunch of seeds coming next week that I will use the cannastart on. You were right, it does kick the shit out of problems!

Maybe I will start a thread when I start those new seeds. I seem to have a problem with damping off when I put germinated seeds into coco. I think my medium is too moist and it's killing them. Id love to hear your advise!

Thank you so much, you made my Christmas a lot more positive this year! I hope you have a good Christmas!

Glad to hear that man. I had a good Christmas. Hopefully the new year brings good things. I hope everything's cool for you and yours.

What results like yours show is that if you treat cannabis like the simple plant she is, she'll do the rest. This need be no more complicated than you want it to be really.

If you do decide to start a thread and you've got enough posts, pm me and I'll drop by. Til we meet again homie...

 

[OvergrowDaWorld]

My tap water ph is 8+.
I use Acid ph down from general hydroponics.
I found that the water changed. I was giving them water with a ph of 7.0 - 7.2.
Thats the cauze for sure. I adjusted by giving them 18 drops of down per gln of water instead of 16 drops. The ph is at 6.3 now.
Im not going to give them any more Cal-Mag+. I use gln milk jugs mixing 1gln at a time for watering. I hardly ever have to feed them. Maybe once or twice for the whole cycle.
FFOF soil has everything a plant needs till harvy.
Theyll bounce back. They already look better. Thanx for the advice Bongstar420.
These were for breeding anyways. The healthiest ones will be used for the X's.

Heres a ChemmyJones that got hit hard -

Heres a 21 (Blueberry x SweetTooth) that looks great and wasnt effected by the high ph -

Heres a Strawberry Dogshit x Columbian that was just starting to get affected -