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First Timer: 12 Light Coco Multi-feed

dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
because lucas formula has more than enough N to support healthy veg growth.

why buy grow, when the micro in 3 part already has the correct amount of N?

i'd prefer 2 jugs over 3 everyday.
Yeah but that same amount of N for veg can bite ya in the ass in later flower .

I'll edit this so fuknut doesn't have a hissy fit . i'm refering to the maxi bloom with that statement , not so much the GH 3 part .
 
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RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
I've read the kiss thread, I've also read a few others since last night. Lots of people are having problems through veg with yellowing plants when using maxibloom and nothing else it seems. Any actual diaries you can link me to?

Cheers.

I suggest you leave your comments in the KISS thread. Maybe all those people who "are having problems through veg with yellowing plants when using maxibloom" can use your assistance. Since OVO is not using it, it is kind of off topic in this thread.
 
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papaduc

Active member
Veteran
I don't think I've clogged up the thread. IC is/was discussing new nutrient lines he's looking to run. Someone mentioned maxibloom and I made an observation. I had no idea you were moderating the thread. The only thing I ask of anyone is they back up what they say with some evidence, if they can, like I am willing to do.

I showed you the growth rates under fluorescent lighting, to make my claim that they are as good for a certain stage of growth as any more powerful light, But you said "I won't go there" which I take to mean you feel I'm goading you somehow. I don't understand that. I swear it was not my intention.

You also said, quote "the (maxi) grow formula really has no advantage over the bloom in veg"

Now, I disagree, based on reading countless posts which suggest otherwise. Lots of people are either adding in nitrogen in one form or another, or switching to maxigrow for the veg stage. I think I should be allowed to point that out without being ushered away from the thread if you don't mind.

If you don't want to substantiate your comments with some proof because you think it's an act of impudence to even be questioned, it makes rational conversation impossible.

Some of the most intelligent growers I have spoken to still have the humility to entertain a challenge to their ideas, and enough knowledge to give you a complete answer back, maybe even teach you something you didn't know before. That's the value of debate.


IC, if you feel that me posting in this thread, with regards to things which are not directly pertinent to your grow, is detracting from the thread itself, sincerely, I apologise mate. We've all got opinions on every aspect of this, and a lot of the things I've seen you ponder, I have my opinion on too.

Be cool ;)
 

RB26

Vendor
Veteran
Na its all good. I think a lot of people will find this thread helpful down the road because of all the different opinions.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
But you said "I won't go there" which I take to mean you feel I'm goading you somehow. I don't understand that. I swear it was not my intention.

That's the value of debate.
You were goading me, and still are. Bottom line:you like to argue. Even after I replied "I won't go there", you continued on, and are still rambling on about it, as you are about the K.I.S.S. thread. Contrary to what you said, this is not a debate. It's OVO's thread about his grow. If you have a problem with the K.I.S.S. method, that's fine, but you should take it to that thread, where I'm sure you can get into a rousing "debate". I, who have actually used it, have never had any problem with it so there is really nothing to discuss, and I'm not interested in arguing with you about it, and I don't have anything to prove to you. So why not drop it and keep on topic, which is OVO's grow?
Maybe you could discuss the nutes he's using.
 

RB26

Vendor
Veteran
Hey guys, quick question.

Today I noticed some leaf curling on the mothers I put into the main room two days ago. It isn't like a nutrient burn, but more a clawing type curl at the bud sites. The leaves otherwise are perfectly colored and not burned in the slightest bit. I find this interesting because the only thing that changed was the room that its in. Does anyone know what this could be? I do know it happened INSTANTLY from being put into the main room, everything in the veg room still looks perfect. Here's what I know so far:

- It is not a nutrient problem, they were receiving the exact same feed in the veg room as they are in the main room.
- They are not being over/under watered and there is proper drainage.
- Res temps are perfect, 65-69F
- This is not a too cold/too hot temperature situation. Lights off temp is 72-75 and lights on is 75-80.

Things that did change, that could be the culprit:
- Too much light? Went from 1000W to 6000W overnight.
- Humidity? Ranges from 40-55% lights on and 50-65% lights off.
- CO2? Veg room was not CO2 enriched, main room is at 900PPM but reaches 1000PPM before it cuts out (most likely culprit I think).

It is very slight, but the rest of the plants in the main room are also experiencing a bit of this, which would lead to think its either too much CO2 enrichment or a high/low humidity problem.

Any help is appreciated
 

RB26

Vendor
Veteran
There are a few things that can cause that. Any pictures?

It seems that's the answer. Lower the CO2.

Yeah I'll snap some in a little bit. I lowered the CO2 to 400PPM just so it kicks on to keep it on minimally. I have a feeling in a day or two that problem will completely reverse.

It happened so quickly to the mothers it had to be either CO2 or too much light. Since the mothers are big, healthy plants, I don't think it was the increased wattage. Everything else remained exactly the same.

The other obvious idea that pops to mind would be a nitrogen problem, but that definitely isn't the case. The nute levels are perfect and the feedings have been the same for all plants. My veg room is absolutely banging out right now, so it definitely isn't that.
 

whatthe215

Active member
Veteran
rather than lowering CO2, why not increase nutrient strength and day temps in order to utilize the CO2? i keep CO2 1000-1200.

those pictures you linked, i've had similar looking plants from ph lockout OR lack of rootzone oxygen interfering with plants ability to uptake nutrients. leads to salt buildup which only further compounds the issue.

when stuff starts going south, i just mixup a res of whatever ppm i want them to have at 5.8ph and get tons of runoff. resets the coco back into the correct range. ~100-150gal for my 12 bare bulb room (i used too large of pots.)

do you water everyday or allow for a wet/dry cycle?
 

RB26

Vendor
Veteran
rather than lowering CO2, why not increase nutrient strength and day temps in order to utilize the CO2? i keep CO2 1000-1200.

those pictures you linked, i've had similar looking plants from ph lockout OR lack of rootzone oxygen interfering with plants ability to uptake nutrients. leads to salt buildup which only further compounds the issue.

when stuff starts going south, i just mixup a res of whatever ppm i want them to have at 5.8ph and get tons of runoff. resets the coco back into the correct range. ~100-150gal for my 12 bare bulb room (i used too large of pots.)

do you water everyday or allow for a wet/dry cycle?


Raising daytime temps is an interesting idea.

The nutrients are not the problem. My reservoir is always perfect with a ph between 5.6 and 5.9 and temps of 65-69F. SS isn't a heavy feeder, so increasing the nutrient strength past 1.3EC right now will not do any good, in fact it will definitely do the opposite. I know this strain quite well.

Lockout also isn't the issue. The plants are extremely healthy color wise and show no signs of deficiencies or nutrient burn. Watering occurs 2-3xs a day until runoff to leach any salt buildups. I also incorporate a product called Big Time Rinse and Roots which make sure no buildups ever occur.

Rather than increasing nutrient strength and upping the daytime temps, which has a reasonable possibility of making the problem far worse, I'm just going to dial the CO2 back for a few days and see if that helps. It certainly isn't going to make the problem worse. My veg room has no CO2 and it naturally fluctuates between 350-550PPM, and they're the healthiest plants I have ever grown.
 

whatthe215

Active member
Veteran
Raising daytime temps is an interesting idea.
...

Rather than increasing nutrient strength and upping the daytime temps, which has a reasonable possibility of making the problem far worse, I'm just going to dial the CO2 back for a few days and see if that helps. It certainly isn't going to make the problem worse. My veg room has no CO2 and it naturally fluctuates between 350-550PPM, and they're the healthiest plants I have ever grown.

growing without CO2 is certainly easier.

problems will show up and get worse faster in a CO2 room, but once it's dialed growth is ridiculously fast.

adding CO2 is just removing the limiting factor that is ~400ppm ambient CO2. once that LIMITING factor is removed, you must increase the other variables (temp, humidity, nutrient strength.)

i don't run CO2 in my veg btw, i raise my EC .1-.2 when i transfer to big CO2 rooms.
 

RB26

Vendor
Veteran
growing without CO2 is certainly easier.

problems will show up and get worse faster in a CO2 room, but once it's dialed growth is ridiculously fast.

adding CO2 is just removing the limiting factor that is ~400ppm ambient CO2. once that LIMITING factor is removed, you must increase the other variables (temp, humidity, nutrient strength.)

i don't run CO2 in my veg btw, i raise my EC .1-.2 when i transfer to big CO2 rooms.

So you'd suggest I run 800-900PPM, 80F+, 1.5EC+, 60%+ RH?
 

papaduc

Active member
Veteran
You were goading me, and still are. Bottom line:you like to argue. Even after I replied "I won't go there", you continued on, and are still rambling on about it, as you are about the K.I.S.S. thread. Contrary to what you said, this is not a debate. It's OVO's thread about his grow. If you have a problem with the K.I.S.S. method, that's fine, but you should take it to that thread, where I'm sure you can get into a rousing "debate". I, who have actually used it, have never had any problem with it so there is really nothing to discuss, and I'm not interested in arguing with you about it, and I don't have anything to prove to you. So why not drop it and keep on topic, which is OVO's grow?
Maybe you could discuss the nutes he's using.

It's not for you to police the thread as far as what passes as acceptable material. If you make a claim about something, you should acknowledge evidence which proves you wrong.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Even your attempts to be argumentative have become redundant. You just like to argue and "be right". It's like "Deja Vu" all over again or Groundhog Day. Sorry, not here to argue with or be baited by you, or interrogated. I just don't really care how you start your seeds or what lights you use. It doesn't affect me in any way. Again, if you have a problem/obsession with the KISS thread, settle it there. I am not going to argue with you about it, even though you really want to. I know your OCD won't let you, but try to let it go.
Again, this is OVO's thread about HIS garden. Why try to jack his thread just because you want to argue about something else? That was a rhetorical question. The thread's not about you. You could start your own, though. I'm sure you'll find plenty of people to argue with. I was reading another thread earlier that you jacked. You like to jump in threads and make them about you. I think you can't help yourself. But you've hit a dead end here, unfortunately.
 
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RB26

Vendor
Veteran
Lol you guys are hilarious. I'm gonna cast a reality show with ya'll as the leads.

I don't have any closeups but I took these when I threw the Mommys in there. Things are filling up nicely and after dialing in the atmosphere things will really take off.

picture.php


picture.php
 

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