-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
fuck! i am confused !
- Thread starter woogille
- Start date
ok i think i start to realize what i want.
first of all thanks for the help.
now basically - all depends on whether the guy from ebay can customize chips for me
anyway there are thoes cree chips - on ebay
and if the can be customized i thought about going like this -
3 bords in total -
2 - 60w each
1 - 30w
1 - is a natural bord - that goes throughout the whole growing period,
and 2 for vegetation and flowering stages - 1 for each stage.
so in total i'll get 90w of power every given time.
this is the setup i have in mind - please tell me what you think:
vegetation -
blue - 24w
cold white - 21w
natural white - 30w
warm white - 15w
flowering -
red - 42w
warm white - 27w
natural white - 12w
cold white - 9w
please tell me what ya think -
can someone customize like this ?
what do you think about the ratios of the light ?
did i get them right ?
and again thanks a lot for your time and being helpful !
first of all thanks for the help.
now basically - all depends on whether the guy from ebay can customize chips for me
anyway there are thoes cree chips - on ebay
and if the can be customized i thought about going like this -
3 bords in total -
2 - 60w each
1 - 30w
1 - is a natural bord - that goes throughout the whole growing period,
and 2 for vegetation and flowering stages - 1 for each stage.
so in total i'll get 90w of power every given time.
this is the setup i have in mind - please tell me what you think:
60w - for flowering
red - 14pc x3w=42w
natural white - 2pc x3w=6w
warm white - 4pc x3w=12w
natural white - 2pc x3w=6w
cold white - 3pc x3w=9w
natural white - 8pc x3w=24w
blue - 8pc x3w=24w
natural white - 2pc x3w=6w
warm white - 4pc x3w=12w
30w - natural
warm white - 5pc x3w=15wnatural white - 2pc x3w=6w
cold white - 3pc x3w=9w
60w - for vegetating
cold white - 4pc x3w=12wnatural white - 8pc x3w=24w
blue - 8pc x3w=24w
vegetation -
blue - 24w
cold white - 21w
natural white - 30w
warm white - 15w
flowering -
red - 42w
warm white - 27w
natural white - 12w
cold white - 9w
please tell me what ya think -
can someone customize like this ?
what do you think about the ratios of the light ?
did i get them right ?
and again thanks a lot for your time and being helpful !
Last edited by a moderator:
I've built some led..
drop all colors, but WW for flower. is all I can say. and try to mix high cri WW with the WW. on the red, it's your call, never done it yet, but I would assume a couple wouldn't hurt.. depending on power run through them, as I would use medium power spread out.. don't want half the power hitting one plant..
veg. I've found mixed results, and cannot say yet, as anything grows the plant in veg. where I'm at right now is 4000k color for veg. but anything does work, and maybe more blue would help.. I cannot say yet.
I would only buy highest quality lights, to me anything else is a waste, as led is suppose to be efficient. it won't be if using shit chips/ old chips. led is expensive, or semi expensive.. I find building a crap light would yield the same as a cheap ebay light.. if your going to build, my idea is do it right ( high quality ) , there's no point in building when you can buy a light.. building is for if you want something special / more powerful / more efficient / cutting edge...
drop all colors, but WW for flower. is all I can say. and try to mix high cri WW with the WW. on the red, it's your call, never done it yet, but I would assume a couple wouldn't hurt.. depending on power run through them, as I would use medium power spread out.. don't want half the power hitting one plant..
veg. I've found mixed results, and cannot say yet, as anything grows the plant in veg. where I'm at right now is 4000k color for veg. but anything does work, and maybe more blue would help.. I cannot say yet.
I would only buy highest quality lights, to me anything else is a waste, as led is suppose to be efficient. it won't be if using shit chips/ old chips. led is expensive, or semi expensive.. I find building a crap light would yield the same as a cheap ebay light.. if your going to build, my idea is do it right ( high quality ) , there's no point in building when you can buy a light.. building is for if you want something special / more powerful / more efficient / cutting edge...
Smoking Lamp
Member
3000 and 4000k spectrums put out a nice veg spectrum. Not too much blue and not a staggering amount of read above 630nm.
Lots of blue will slow down your veg.
WW in flower only is what I say too.
I am also interested in adding in UV for mid-day periods along with WW and 730nm initiators @ lights out.
White light is broad spectrum based.
Lots of blue will slow down your veg.
WW in flower only is what I say too.
I am also interested in adding in UV for mid-day periods along with WW and 730nm initiators @ lights out.
White light is broad spectrum based.
cree is cutting edge, isnt it ?
you want to put it in a PC case?
Google cree cxa3050 100w custom led grow....
He's using 2 cree ww cob leds. Couldn't be simpler and the results are impressive.
Google cree cxa3050 100w custom led grow....
He's using 2 cree ww cob leds. Couldn't be simpler and the results are impressive.
Smoking Lamp
Member
Bridgelux Vero 10,13,18,29
Bridgelux RS series
Cree CXA series [3590? come on, you know you want two!!!]
Bridgelux RS series
Cree CXA series [3590? come on, you know you want two!!!]
is he using 2x cree cxa3050 100w and no other light at all in this grow ?
Smoking Lamp
Member
Here you go, here is a search from Octopart
http://octopart.com/partsearch#search/requestData&q=cree%20cxa3070
I usually hit up
Digikey
Jamison
Mouser
Newark
Arrow
most of these places are linked in the Octopart too [which is just a really nice metasearch for Electronics only stuff]
Smoking Lamp
Member
I would stay away from the 3590 for now. You will be paying up the ass for reliable drivers. It runs something like 77v@1.8a. That high of voltage will require moolah and I don't think they are as efficient as the 3070's either.
thats weird, in newark they say [about the 3070] that its 7390lm, while in cree's website it says its 11000 or so. also they didnt wrote how many watts .
smoking lamp - what do you mean - the 3590 are not as efficient as the 3070 ?
what is moolah ?
im sorry for my lack of knowledge in electricity, but so
what will happen in the future that will make the 3590 'better' [or whatever] ?
and when will that happen ?
smoking lamp - what do you mean - the 3590 are not as efficient as the 3070 ?
what is moolah ?
im sorry for my lack of knowledge in electricity, but so
what will happen in the future that will make the 3590 'better' [or whatever] ?
and when will that happen ?
Why do you think Cree would lunch an in-efficient array on the market ? I agree, it's a very new product (announced 3 weeks ago) and the drivers may be hard or even impossible to find for the moment, but this will change for sure in the next couple of months.
If one have some extra $$ to spend on experiments, he could try to power this kind of COBs directly on 110/220V using just a rectifier bridge, a high voltage electrolytic capacitor, a high voltage MOSFET transistor (for current limiting), a general NPN transistor, a low power resistor (200k-1M) and 2x 3W 0.22Ohm resistors . The thermocouple point of the CXA could be used also to control the MOSFET transistor.
If using 110V AC , 2 CXA 3590 could be connected in series. For 220V AC , 4xCXA should be connected.
It would be fun to test such circuits, even though the risk of electric shock is quite high.
Don't worry about that.woogille said:
I wouldn't worry about that either.woogille said:
Money.woogille said:
Poor choice of words. Nothing's going anywhere. He means that an LED driver that can supply 77 Volts at 1.8 Amps will be unnecessarily expensive.woogille said:
Do you even need that many Watts? I thought we were talking about a PC grow box? That's like a square foot maximum. I see many people growing fine herb with ~40-60 Watts per square foot. Anything over 100W is like, "Really...?"
hey man
for that kind of money for that chip i'd even go 200W
why ?
cuz its cheaper than if i'd go for 90 watts with other chips, and i guess that it wouldn't hurt if i'd had more powerfull lights,
besides, i could use it if i'd ever wanna go for bigger grow box.
besides - i could test these results with other pc growers that go - 'traditional' and use like you said - 40-60w and see if it could yield more.
isn't that logical ?
what do you mean ?
do you thing that light can be 'too strong' in such a way it could actually hurt the plant ?
what kind of shading are you talking about ?
But the driver will be expensive. That's what we're saying.
It is. It's been done before.
Yeah, he's talking about stunting the growth of your plants with too much light, and (comically) hinting at using a screen to block some of the light out.
You're trying to stuff 2lb's of bologna into a 1lb bag. If you want to start growing today and later on expand your garden all with the same 3590 COB then you need an LED driver than not only can push 77 Volts at 1.8 Amps, but you need one that is dimmable. I really think you'd end up running it @ ~50%, or so, when inside the PC case, otherwise I fear you'd just cook your plants.
