analogcricket
Member
does the color change at all having it that high?
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Terpenation at Terpene Station
- Thread starter FatherEarth
- Start date
mr. durden
Member
sadly FE assumes too much.
how could anyone think your oil isn't getting super heated when it is being hit with a heat gun on the highest setting???
the only way we would know the damage being done would be with tests before heating and then after. regardless, you are seeing degradation of the product hitting it with such high heat compared to someone who makes shatter without gimmicks.
rather than spending so much time trying to prove he isn't such a big idiot, maybe he should figure out what mistakes he is making in his blasting process that results in his oil waxing.
how could anyone think your oil isn't getting super heated when it is being hit with a heat gun on the highest setting???
the only way we would know the damage being done would be with tests before heating and then after. regardless, you are seeing degradation of the product hitting it with such high heat compared to someone who makes shatter without gimmicks.
rather than spending so much time trying to prove he isn't such a big idiot, maybe he should figure out what mistakes he is making in his blasting process that results in his oil waxing.
the color will change if you hold those temps longer than a few seconds. Otherwise I would say no and if so only slightly at most. Watch the video and let me know what you think about the color....
mr. durden
Member
well, different things boil off at different temps. even at 115 over long periods i am sure there is some decarbing going on. that is why a lot of people purge at lower temps... like 95-105.
you shouldn't have to ever purge at 115 or higher unless you are making wax. if you are, then you need to rethink how you are handling your oil prior to vac'ing
mr. durden
Member
i have some digital thermometers for cooking and i turned my heat gun on high and pointed it at them for just a couple seconds... they go up to 225 and they maxed out.
icdog
Member
How long does it normally take to burp a tank after can tapping? I just finished can tapping, the tank weighed about 42 lbs. I had it in a container filled with ice and the temps on the tank were low 30's F. I opened the blue valve for a few minutes and something kept coming out so I closed it up. I can't really smell the propane or whatever should come out first, GW said the butane doesn't really have any pressure so does it take a few seconds or a few minutes or an hour or so?
localhero
Member
but you cant deny that hes still getting shatter. it must have to do with the length of time hes heating. because really hes just flashing it with the heat gun for seconds at a time.
on a side note: i cant wait to ditch my griddle, its the farthest thing from scientific. I feel like a dj adjusting that tuner with my right hand and temp gun in my left. any of you guys use a digital heating stirrer? the idea is that the heat is more controlled and the stir function will help loosen up bubbles faster while under a vacuum.
You opened the liquid valve (blue), so liquid butane should come out. Burp with the red valve to release pressure. 42 lbs means you should have about ~14lbs of butane in a 50 lb tank. That seems excessive for the MKIII.
It is hard to determine propane vs butane by smell for me. Instead I hook up my pressure gauge to the Red Valve (Vent) and check the pressure. To do this process more accurately your refrigerant tank should be below 30 F degrees. I vent off my tank till the pressure gets around 10-20 psi. I usually do this with dry ice and haven't got accurate temps but figure it is well below 30 F.
I bet if you check your pressure at a lower temperature it will still be fairly high. If you can get your tank colder to do the burp, you will retain more liquid butane in the tank and other gasses will vent off. After this, weigh the tank and it will probably have lost a few pounds.
Also, pressure in the tank helps you flood the column faster from my experience.
PS. no offense but I am always surprised when people open the liquid valve to burp and still are able to run this machine... but that's just me. Definitely have learned a lot from running the terp.
icdog
Member
Thanks. This is why I asked this. On the first page of this thread GW said the blue is liquid and red is vapor but its marked opposite. The blue valve on my tank is marked vapor and thats what I burped with. My tank looks exactly like FE's tank in the pics on the first page of this thread also.
GW said to put in 5 - 10 lbs, I put a bit more in to cover whatever is released when it is burped.
I didn't know I could check the pressure of the tank that way, thanks.
How long does it take to burp? I don't know if I can find dry ice yet so I hope normal ice will work.
GW said to put in 5 - 10 lbs, I put a bit more in to cover whatever is released when it is burped.
I didn't know I could check the pressure of the tank that way, thanks.
How long does it take to burp? I don't know if I can find dry ice yet so I hope normal ice will work.
mr. durden
Member
@icdog. I gave up trying to do that as I couldn't smell a difference line GW
@localhero. Looking like and being are two different, things. I think testing before and after his methods would prove me right. I find it humorous how much effort he puts into trying to prove me wrong instead of just trying to make better oil the first go.
Why would you want to stir your oil while under heat or under vacuum?
@lebiniis. that seems like a decent amount to run with. I wouldn't run with under 10lbs... Take too long to build pressure if you burp and for so me reason contaminants in the 50 could impact the quality of your oil
@localhero. Looking like and being are two different, things. I think testing before and after his methods would prove me right. I find it humorous how much effort he puts into trying to prove me wrong instead of just trying to make better oil the first go.
Why would you want to stir your oil while under heat or under vacuum?
@lebiniis. that seems like a decent amount to run with. I wouldn't run with under 10lbs... Take too long to build pressure if you burp and for so me reason contaminants in the 50 could impact the quality of your oil
When I burp my tank, I open the vapor valve with a hose attached so I can direct the burp where I want it.I open it a 1/4 of the way and will waft the vapor towards my nose a few times to try and smell whats coming out. Alternatively if you listen close you can hear the pressure drop and at that same time you will notice the odor change as well. thats when I shut the valve and call it good. Cant really put a time on it as there are too many variables to consider. Just make sure you have your tank good and cold and you dont disturb it before opening the vapor valve. So chill it with lots of Ice and connect your hose, wait a while then burb... pressure drop, smell change, all good.
FE
FE
Lebniis,
how does one burp vapor through the liquid valve?
how does one burp vapor through the liquid valve?
another note worth mentioning...I like to have a ball valve on the end of that hose so I can shut the flow off quickly if need be..
Certainly not minutes or hours.. under a minute I would say. When I have opened my vapor valve I get a fine cloud of butane shoot out. When I open the liquid valve it sprays out butane like water from a faucet. When burping cold you dont see anything at all, the smell and sound should be a good indicator. If youve opened the valve for over a min you are probably more than ok. It doesnt hurt to keep a lil pressure for getting it super cold...
localhero
Member
those scientific hot plates often have a magnetic stirrer built in. my guess is that it vibrates the ceramic top. my idea was that the stir function would help break up bubbles while under vacuum and low heat, allowing the gas bubbles to break faster. the issue i run into while vacuum purging is that the expanded bubbly wax cools as it is not touching the bottom where the source of heat is and takes longer to release the gas trapped in the expansion.
something like this with a 10" heating surface http://www.ebay.com/itm/VWR-VMS-C10...126?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c374a7656
Im upgrade to the new heat gun that you can actually dial in within 50 degrees of the set point also w an LCD screen.
Seen here
Currently using this model now.
Seen here
Currently using this model now.
mr. durden
Member
you shouldn't need something like that. what is your vac setup looking like? what kind of pump you using?
before we had ovens, we used big stainless pots over heating mats with temp controllers. kept the heat around 95-105 and used 8 cfm 2 stage pumps.
are you talking about your oil doing the muffin thing? if so, i understand what you are talking about. let the oil sit longer on heat...and hour or two, then pull a partial vac for a half hour/hour, then go to full vac. that way your oil doesn't experience the wide temp change a muffin experiences
also, never let your oil cool till you are ready to flip it and vac some more
localhero
Member
I just have a robinair 3cfm 2 stage and 2 vac-it-pro vacuum chambers. the robinair works ok but it struggles to get to -30. thats a good idea to half it then go full, thanks man. but the griddle has to go that thing fluctuates too much, turning the whole process into an artform rather than something scientific. are you talking about those silicone heating mats?
