Cleaning tent and grow equips after Powder Mildew infestation?

[greenops]

Hey guys,

My last grow 7 months ago got infested with PM. Since then I took all the equips and the tent down. I'm going to start a new grow soon and I'm wondering if the PM spores could have survived without plants?
Like are they able to stay dormant and hide in the fans, piece of wood (scrog net frame) or carbon filter for example? I might be overly paranoid, but PM ruined my entire crop and i dont wanna go thru that again.

Thanks!!!!

 

[Granger2]

Buy and electric fogger and fog the whole kiit and kaboodle with a disinfectant, followed by fogging with a 2nd one. Allow the fog to go thru your fans, etc. Have you addressed the cause? Usually its because of high humidity. Sealed rooms with AC, Dehumd, and CO2 are the best way to avoid the problem, unless you're in a desert like area with low humidity almost all the time. Good luck. -granger

 

[al70]

Hi greenops, i think granger has it covered but here's something else that might help, goodluck, Treat plant with SM90 to kill spores prevent future growth - Mix 1 part SM90 to 5 parts water(I’ve found 7 parts water to be equally effective) in a clean sprayer/mister. Wait until just before your lights for off for the day and mist your (newly cleaned) plants. Get all the leaves! This diluted SM90 mixed will kill any spores it touches, and anywhere it lands becomes uninhabitable for future spores.

 

[greenops]

Thanks for the info guys.

Granger, I'm not really sure what caused it. The temps were in normal range and the humidity never got higher than 50%. The conditions were the same as my previous grows except the last time i vegged a lil longer so that the scrog got quite full mid flowering. Perhaps not enough air circulation? Thanks for ur recommendation but im going to have a lot of expenses already from buying a new watering system, not sure if i can afford it. Do u think cleaning everything with disinfectant and bleach solution will do the job? its just a pain to disassemble the fans and other things.

Al, sounds like a good product, thanks. Have to check if i can find it in my area.

 

[al70]

hi greenops, sm90 also goes under the name H2O2, it's cheap on amazon, goodluck.

 

[stonedwarrior]

Fire cures all.

 

[greenops]

i see, its hydrogen peroxide. i checked amazon unfortunately they dont deliver it in my country but i know i can buy hydro peroxide from an aquarium store.

actually i came here hoping that someone would convince me those spores would have died by now lol

 

[al70]

i see, its hydrogen peroxide. i checked amazon unfortunately they dont deliver it in my country but i know i can buy hydro peroxide from an aquarium store.

actually i came here hoping that someone would convince me those spores would have died by now lol

hope you get it sorted greenops, goodluck.

 

[Coconutz]

SM90 is not H202. Nutrilife make both SM90 and a product called H202. Their H202 is about 30% h202 compared to the 3% brown bottle. SM90 is a canola oil type shit. They are not the same.

 

[hydroclops]

Good day all, I had a serious PM problem.
I realy don't know if it can live on non living sufaces.
But I had flowered all my stuff and the reat was in veg.
I tried sulfer spray, h202, sm90, and nadda.
then I was given Eagle20 and BOOM!!!!

No more PM, and that was 3 years ago, with only a slight break in flower production.

Also the PM was introduced(inadvertitly and unknowingly by a friend.



Stay safe and high.
.......HYDRO.......

 

[Granger2]

In the past, I've checked with local contractors, and they say Lysol does the job on black mold [the bad shit]. Lysol and Bleach [1 part bleach, 9 parts water] have no oil and will knock out any fungi or bacteria, are cheap, and shouldn't harm your equipment. I would take the prefilters off you carbon filters, and fog. A little moisture on the carbon will quickly dry.You can get a fogger for $70 at big box stores. Good for fogging between crops. Cheap in the long run, and cheaper than crop loss. Also, steam cleaners like this one will work without chems.
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/re...o-p7-portable-steam-cleaners.html?itemId=2899
Good luck. -granger

 

[al70]

SM90 is not H202. Nutrilife make both SM90 and a product called H202. Their H202 is about 30% h202 compared to the 3% brown bottle. SM90 is a canola oil type shit. They are not the same.

Sorry greenops, i thought they were the same product, thanks coconutz for pointing that out.

 

[Granger2]

Actually, I prefer peroxide to bleach. Does the job then quickly degrades into water and oxygen. -granger

 

[greenops]

Thanks again for all your inputs.

Granger, sure you're right that investing in a fogger is nothing compared to losing a crop. But right now my expenses went up 8 times higher than expected, from buying a new watering system and replacing other equipments. I only have a darkroom 100 tent anyway. I guess the fogger works well if I had a big room.
Right now, all I'm going to use for my next grow that was used in my last PM infested grow is the tent, extractor fan, and 5 circulation fans. Everything else will be replaced. I guess I will take the time to wash what is left by hand. I'm planning to spray with sulfur solution, let it dry, spray it with hydrogen peroxide, and lastly with some disinfectant.

Al, no probem. Thanks and good luck with your grows as well.

Hydrofome, from reading hundreds of pages regarding PM, I always come across guys that swear by Eagle20. Makes me really wanna get it. Seems to me its fool proof. I'm gonna research some more coz i heard it has some downsides?

 

[EclipseFour20]

Sourcing the PM is 50% of the solution--using an "effective" technique to "control it" is the other half.

Cleaning the walls, floors, lights, fan housings will do zero if the source of you PM spores is from the vents in your AC, inside the ducting, neighbor next door's plants, or....???

Using multiple fungicides with different "mode of actions" is a smart way to tackle the problem.

Finally, conversing with a professor from Cal Poly Pomona about PM spores, he told me that PM spores are everywhere and are a part of nature--just certain plants are prone to fall prey more than others...and that using systemic fungicides will usually be the most "cost effective" way of controlling PM.

If it were me...I would steam clean the environment (travel clothes steamers are real affordable on Amazon) then clean everything twice using both bleach and soap, then spray all plants with 3 fungicides...in the following order: First, a "contact fungicide" (potassium bicarbonate--Greencure) to wipe out all fungal growth on the leaves, followed days later with a "systemic fungicide" (Eagle20) to turn on the plants SAR and PM defense on, then about 7 days later with an "bacteria-type fungicide" (Bacillus subtilis--Serenade with 25% Raw Milk) to let nature prevent flagellated spores from taking hold.

If you spray Greencure last...then it kinda undoes Serenade. If you spray Eagle20 followed by Greencure...then expect a great leaf loss. Neem products can be mixed with Eagle20, but not with Greencure or Serenade. So...think about the order of your foliar sprays.

Plant nutrition--lots of peeps swear by many things...me, I believe increased levels of Plant Available Silica (PAS) can do many good things, include combat/control PM. I feed my plants silica through their roots (amorphous silica and monosilicic acid)--not via foliar sprays.

Hope this helps....cheers!

BTW...the best foliar sprayer I discovered is.... LOW velocity LOW pressure paint sprayer ($20 @ Harbor Freight) attached to an air compressor. Two advantages: First, all leaves (top and bottom), branches, stalks receive full coverage via "paint mist" (easy to direct and control), and second--lessor amount of spraying solution is required (like 50% le$$--spray droplets are about half the size of pump sprayers--so it takes less liquid to cover the same area). IMHO, paint sprayer setup is much better than those hand pump sprayers--the paint sprayer NEVER CLOGS and unlike hand pumps, there are zero rubber seals that can wear out and BREAK at the worst possible time. Foggers/misters are good...but indoors they get everything wet (increase in humidity) requiring glass on the lamps to be "polished"...PIA! I spray each plant individually at a DIY "spray station" (upside-down drywall bucket in a corner, a $2 shower curtain on the wall and old towels on the floor)--so there really is no big mess to wipe up...other than wet towels.

 

[greenops]

Eclipse, thanks for the info. A steam clean sounds like a good idea. I checked online and have seen a few affordable once. Can u use the steamer with any kind of solution? Would a hydrogen peroxide or sulfur water mix solution also work?

Greencure is only available online, making it a bit too pricey. Therefore I decided to only order Eagle 20, assuming it's the more effective of the two. But why did u say that there will be some leaf loss when using Greencure after Eagle 20?
I'm planning to use sulphur powder mixed with water, Eagle 20, another pesticide that was recommended to me by the local hydro store, and a milk/water solution which I noticed to have some good effects last time. In which order would u suggest i should apply them?

 

[EclipseFour20]

For steaming--I would use RO/distilled water; nothing else. My experience has been the PM fungus footprints are in essence "burned" using Greencure...and with Eagle20 only the most infested "footprints" will show leaf burn--the lighter "footprints" will turn to a lighter color green--but no crispy critters. But when I followed Eagle20 with Greencure, it seemed that EVERY footprint became crispy critter (leaf loss).

I have no real experience using sulphur powder--but if Greencure is not in the mix, then I would spray in this order:1. Eagle20 + Neem, 2. Neem or other oil based fungicide (without Eagle20) 3. Bacteria (Serenade, or compost tea with a pinch of trichoderma harzianum and Raw Milk--25% for normal, 10% if light PM infestation, or 50% if heavy infestation.

My experience is...always start with "contact" fungicide, and try to finish off the routine (which can be repeated every 14 days or so) with bacteria. Oils are good to apply within a few days of the previous spray...and do remain on the leaf longer than other fungicides. Eagle20 is both a "contact" and a "translaminar"...sorta like a "systemic" so mixing some Neem based products will be perfect (and yes, Neem and Eagle20 are compatible to combine) if you have a different product to use for Spray #2.

Not too sure what the hydro store might recommend, but Azatrol/Azamax are pricey products, but pure Neem might be a "second best" choice. Again...these can be mixed with your Eagle20 concoction.

Cheers!