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bobblehead's organic bedroom of high brix gardening

InjectTruth

Active member
I use coco in my garden instead of peatmoss. Thats what I do after I use it to grow my uhm tomatoes in my house. It can be substitude for peatmoss in organics I believe.



I gotta dig up the exact reason why (in one of the original ROLS threads) but no, you shouldnt substitute coir for peat in organic mixes 1:1. Has to do with CEC and other things but it turns out peat is really way better than people thought for a while. Gimme a few I'll find it.
 

InjectTruth

Active member
Found it! https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=254528

A few excerpts:

" However, ten years ago, Meerow

(1994) found that growth of Ixora coccine was significantly reduced compared to growth

in a sphagnum peat moss control. Vavrina (1996) found that there were no adverse

effects of coir to tomato and pepper transplants, but a subsequent study in the same lab

(Arenas et al., 2002) found that media with more than 50% coir had reduced growth

compared to peat-grown control plants. They suggested that a high N immobilization by

microorganisms and a high C:N ratio in the coir may have caused the reduced growth.

Lopez-Galarza (2002) found that root development of strawberry plants grown in peat

moss was better than in coir in some, but not all, studies."




"These studies show that coconut coir should be used with great caution. Although the

Sri Lanka brands performed better than the Mexican brands, no brand performed

consistently better than sphagnum peat. "
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Found it! https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=254528

A few excerpts:

" However, ten years ago, Meerow

(1994) found that growth of Ixora coccine was significantly reduced compared to growth

in a sphagnum peat moss control. Vavrina (1996) found that there were no adverse

effects of coir to tomato and pepper transplants, but a subsequent study in the same lab

(Arenas et al., 2002) found that media with more than 50% coir had reduced growth

compared to peat-grown control plants. They suggested that a high N immobilization by

microorganisms and a high C:N ratio in the coir may have caused the reduced growth.

Lopez-Galarza (2002) found that root development of strawberry plants grown in peat

moss was better than in coir in some, but not all, studies."




"These studies show that coconut coir should be used with great caution. Although the

Sri Lanka brands performed better than the Mexican brands, no brand performed

consistently better than sphagnum peat. "

The thread you listed here was talking about using calcium sulphate to balance out the coco. I think that this is not enough for the coco. Peat comes from the ground and has a better balance of nutes in it from the start. It is composed of whole plants where as the coco is a very specific part of the plant. This is not a very balance aproach. The coco starts at a loss because of this. Go to the coco threads here on IC and it is common for them to state that the coco works better and better the longer you reuse it.

Of course I have not read the original study so I could be wrong about this, but it is what I take from the thread you sited above.

If you want to get down to the bones you could also say that the peat is more organic than the coco is. As mentioned in the thread you linked to coco is a farm waste product. We all no that in the thrid world they want the best yield possible and are not afraid to use pesticides, fungicides, and herbicides to get that yield.
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
Found it! https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=254528

A few excerpts:

" However, ten years ago, Meerow

(1994) found that growth of Ixora coccine was significantly reduced compared to growth

in a sphagnum peat moss control. Vavrina (1996) found that there were no adverse

effects of coir to tomato and pepper transplants, but a subsequent study in the same lab

(Arenas et al., 2002) found that media with more than 50% coir had reduced growth

compared to peat-grown control plants. They suggested that a high N immobilization by

microorganisms and a high C:N ratio in the coir may have caused the reduced growth.

Lopez-Galarza (2002) found that root development of strawberry plants grown in peat

moss was better than in coir in some, but not all, studies."




"These studies show that coconut coir should be used with great caution. Although the

Sri Lanka brands performed better than the Mexican brands, no brand performed

consistently better than sphagnum peat. "

Problem I'm seeing here is, even in the excerpt they mention it having no effect on tomato and pepper transplants, and inconsistent results with strawberries. Also the fact that the CANNABIS plants I grow and have been studying for many years, have all shown an huge increase in speed of growth and yield over peat gardens. I think ichy is on to something with the CEC of coco becoming more balanced over time. I have definitely noticed an improvement in plant health as my coco matures from reuse. However this might also be due to microbes beginning to create humic/fulvic substances, similar to what happens as an organic mix matures. Not to say that peat couldn't be somehow better than coco, but until you have mastered both, your opinion on the matter means nil.

Bobble just because you didn't dial coco, doesn't instantly mean that peat is better. More forgiving to fuck ups, yes, better from a yield and speed of growth stand point, not a chance.

Oh and just fair warning, I'm going to ride your ass hard about the information you share here. You have a large following of people that are eager to eat up any information you feed them. Make sure it's nutritious. :biggrin:
 
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V

vuuduu

Cocks and pussies!

Hi Bobble bro. You changed the syles big time eh?

Organic beds and shits. Looking good and sounds good too !

Congrats on the move and getting yourself in less stressfull situation.

Grow on buddy
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Problem I'm seeing here is, even in the excerpt they mention it having no effect on tomato and pepper transplants, and inconsistent results with strawberries. Also the fact that the CANNABIS plants I grow and have been studying for many years, have all shown an huge increase in speed of growth and yield over peat gardens. I think ichy is on to something with the CEC of coco becoming more balanced over time. I have definitely noticed an improvement in plant health as my coco matures from reuse. However this might also be due to microbes beginning to create humic/fulvic substances, similar to what happens as an organic mix matures. Not to say that peat couldn't be somehow better than coco, but until you have mastered both, your opinion on the matter means nil.

Bobble just because you didn't dial coco, doesn't instantly mean that peat is better. More forgiving to fuck ups, yes, better from a yield and speed of growth stand point, not a chance.

Oh and just fair warning, I'm going to ride your ass hard about the information you share here. You have a large following of people that are eager to eat up any information you feed them. Make sure it's nutritious. :biggrin:

ha! You must still be salty about the rectal temp thing. :D

If you're gonna ride my ass I'm going to correct you... or at least I'm gonna keep thinking I'm right and let you think you're right.

As far as your coco establishing humus... Not the case.. Every time you dump your coco out and remix it, you're destroying whole ecosystems. The microbes spent the entire grow establishing colonies and symbiotic relationships, and then you rip them apart when you empty the pot. Studies have shown a higher level of microbe life in no-till soils. You could start to establish humus over several grows by using large pots and leaving them full, only cutting out the space needed for the transplant.

I used coco for a long time before I ditched it... IDK that I "mastered" it, but I did have some excellent results. Now I've also used peat, and like you, I have my opinion of which works better. The difference between you and me is that more research supports my findings. lol Its not like coco can't be dialed to produce great results, peat is just easier.

The biggest difference with coco vs peat is the high CEC of coco.



Physico-chemical and chemical properties of some coconut coir dusts for use as a peat substitute for containerised ornamental plants

Manuel Abada, Corresponding author contact information, E-mail the corresponding author,
Patricia Noguerab,
Rosa Puchadesb,
Angel Maquieirab,
Vicente Nogueraa

a Departamento de Producción Vegetal, Universidad Politécnica de Valencia, P.O. Box 22012, E-46071 Valencia, Spain
b Departamento de Quı́mica, Universidad Politécnica de Valencia, P.O. Box 22012, E-46071 Valencia, Spain


Abstract

Selected physico-chemical and chemical characteristics of 13 coconut coir dust (mesocarp pithy tissue plus short-length fibres) samples from Asia, America and Africa were evaluated as peat alternatives. All properties studied differed significantly between and within sources, and from the control Sphagnum peat. pH of coir dust was slightly acidic, whereas salinity varied dramatically between 39 and 597 mS m−1 in the saturated media extract. The cation exchange capacity and carbon/nitrogen (C/N) ratio ranged from 31.7 to 95.4 View the MathML source and from 75 to 186, respectively. Most carbon was found as lignin and cellulose. The concentrations of available nitrogen, calcium, magnesium and micro-elements were low, while those of phosphorus and potassium were remarkably high (0.28–2.81 mol m−3 and 2.97–52.66 mol m−3 for P and K, respectively). Saline ion concentrations, especially chloride and sodium, were also high.




Carbon is important for plant growth... We're all made of it. Lignin is known for being slow to decompose and adds aeration to the coir. IDK if this is good or bad, it really depends on the available carbon to the plant... So I guess it depends on container size and the rate of decomposition.

The only way to know for sure whats going on in the coco as far as CEC is to conduct soil tests. With soil tests you could potentially compensate for the high CEC and make more N, Ca, Mg, and micros available... but without knowing what you have, you're guessing... and chemical nutes do a good job of masking deficiencies.

I ran coco + synthetics for the last 3 years straight.... and every small grow I did before that time. I've been in peat for 6 months, and I've had the best results of my growing career. To each their own.

Cocks and pussies!

Hi Bobble bro. You changed the syles big time eh?

Organic beds and shits. Looking good and sounds good too !

Congrats on the move and getting yourself in less stressfull situation.

Grow on buddy

I would say I'm doing the exact opposite of what I was doing before... lol

Thanks for dropping in Nukku! You've been gone for way to long dude.
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
...how many YEARS ago (2009) did I tell people that, simple, organic, just add water type mixes were the best way to grow. Stop telling a plant what it needs. Feed the soil. Put everything in the dirt the plant could possibly need...and let the plant decide what and when it wants things. Natural expressions, true genetic representations...(given a dialed environment) - but no alterations on the expression based on juicing the plant with various bud "boosters", etc...

I'm highly glad to see this change Bobble! ;)

You'll be a happy farmer too! I think understanding the symbiotic relationship that exist in soil, ie bacteria to roots, etc is just part of understanding the entire role of nature, that is taking place in the natural world, outside of controlled environments...

ALL science is an attempt to explain, reproduce, and later manipulate that which is witnessed in the natural world. In many examples it would seem that nature can and does overpower or rebel against our attempts to control it. So, I learned long ago to try and understand nature and the natural biological processes that are taking place - and then to simply re-create nature as closely as possible indoors...where watering the plants could be the equivalent of rain... :joint:

You're into it head first with the no-till beds - and it's awesome! :respect:



dank.Frank
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Correct me if I am wrong but a plant can pull carbon from the atmophere around it. This is why we have CO2 burners. Whether this is enough or not is imaterial as you amending yours beds. You said that you were getting test for the beds you have. Maybe this should be one of your tests. As well as the high P and K in coco this can be adressed in your soil tests as well. The whole purpose for the test is to not oversupply one nutrient over another.

As for the CEC what is it for the peat? In your study there was a big difference in the coco tested? Is this the case with peat as well?

When you stated that no till is better for the micro herd you are correct there. If it is better in peat it would also be better in coco as well. Have you tried no till with the coco as well?

Before I even try something like this you will have to prove it to me as I am to cheap to just jump in.

Cheap Charlie out.
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Correct me if I am wrong but a plant can pull carbon from the atmophere around it. This is why we have CO2 burners. Whether this is enough or not is imaterial as you amending yours beds. You said that you were getting test for the beds you have. Maybe this should be one of your tests. As well as the high P and K in coco this can be adressed in your soil tests as well. The whole purpose for the test is to not oversupply one nutrient over another.

the plants can also absorb nutrients through the stomata, that doesn't mean they can source all of their nutrients though foliar sprays. You have to have a charge in the soil as well. We're not just feeding the plant, we're feeding the microbes that die and feed the plant.

As for the CEC what is it for the peat? In your study there was a big difference in the coco tested? Is this the case with peat as well?

When you stated that no till is better for the micro herd you are correct there. If it is better in peat it would also be better in coco as well. Have you tried no till with the coco as well?

no I haven't tried no-till coco. Coco sucks. :moon:

Before I even try something like this you will have to prove it to me as I am to cheap to just jump in.

Cheap Charlie out.

HORT SCIENCE
42(2):349–352. 2007.
Cation Exchange Capacity and Base
Saturation Variation among Alberta,
Canada, Moss Peats
Janet F.M. Rippy and Paul V. Nelson
1
Department of Horticultural Science, Box 7609, North Carolina State
University, Raleigh, NC 27695
Additional index words. Sphagnum
species, neutralization requirement, pH drift
Abstract
. Variations in moss peat cation exchange capacity (CEC) and base saturation
(BS) can result in inconsistent initial pH in moss peat-based substrates created using
standard formulas for limestone additions and can lead to subsequent drift from the
initial pH in those substrates. This study was conducted to determine the extent of such
variation. CEC and BS were measured in three replications on 64 moss peat samples that
were selected from three mires across Alberta, Canada, to represent maximum gradients
in plant species composition within six degrees of decomposition acceptable for pro-
fessional peat-based substrates. CEC ranged from 108 to 162 cmol
kg

1
(meq
100 g).
Averaged overall samples, BS ranged from 15% to 71% of CEC and calcium accounted
for 68%, magnesium for 25%, sodium for 5%, and potassium for 1.4% of BS. CEC was
positively correlated to the amount of
Sphagnum fuscum
(Schimp.) Klingrr. in the sample
(r = 0.22). BS was positively correlated to the amount of sedge (r = 0.28). Neither CEC nor
BS was influenced by degree of decomposition (r = 0.002 and r = 0.08, respectively). Moss
peats with high CEC have a greater buffering capacity than those with low CEC,
resulting in less pH drift. Moss peats with high BS should have a low neutralization
requirement to achieve a target pH. Understanding the species composition in peat-based
substrates can alleviate problems of inconsistent initial pH and subsequent pH drift
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
ha! You must still be salty about the rectal temp thing. :D

:laughing: I do tend to get a lil "tight" when a grown man wants to stick something in my ass. Medical student or not, prison does strange things to mans ass/mind.

If you're gonna ride my ass I'm going to correct you... or at least I'm gonna keep thinking I'm right and let you think you're right.

Please do TRY and correct me :biggrin:

As far as your coco establishing humus... Not the case.. Every time you dump your coco out and remix it, you're destroying whole ecosystems. The microbes spent the entire grow establishing colonies and symbiotic relationships, and then you rip them apart when you empty the pot. Studies have shown a higher level of microbe life in no-till soils. You could start to establish humus over several grows by using large pots and leaving them full, only cutting out the space needed for the transplant.

Again you are only partly right here. I have been dumping and mixing the soil at my organic garden for years, and guess what, it's teaming with life (confirmed with a microscope over a similar bet another friend made about a year ago). Not to say that I don't severely disrupt there happy lil home every time I remix, but it hardly kills everything, or even most everything, as you have been lead to believe. Would no-til have higher levels, sure, but you must get rid of this idea of absolutes in organics. A different mentality must be adopted from your "hydro chem fert" days. Try and understand these microbes have been here for millions of years, it's VERY difficult to kill them all. Sterile RDWC is a perfect example. How many people dump bleach, hydrosparkle, etc in their res to keep the nasties at bay, only to still end up with rot at some point?

I used coco for a long time before I ditched it... IDK that I "mastered" it, but I did have some excellent results. Now I've also used peat, and like you, I have my opinion of which works better. The difference between you and me is that more research supports my findings. lol Its not like coco can't be dialed to produce great results, peat is just easier.

You didn't even come close to mastering it, your plants have shown this. Your opinion on which works better is purely based in peat being more forgiving to fuck ups in nutrient and ph levels. Had you dialed coco properly you'd be wondering why your plants are growing comparatively slow now. Difference is coco requires you to be on top of you nute and ph all the time due to the CEC, unlike peat, where you can kind of just eye shit, and more than likely it will be fine (read easier to get healthy plants if you don't have nutes down). This is especially true when using organics. You are entitled to your opinion, but at least understand why your opinion is what it is. Nothing wrong with peat, just understand that I have grown thousands of cannabis plants in both, and coco wins hands down for growth rate and yields. Some study about vegetables doesn't even compare to data I've collected in the real world growing the plant in question.

The biggest difference with coco vs peat is the high CEC of coco.



Physico-chemical and chemical properties of some coconut coir dusts for use as a peat substitute for containerised ornamental plants

Manuel Abada, Corresponding author contact information, E-mail the corresponding author,
Patricia Noguerab,
Rosa Puchadesb,
Angel Maquieirab,
Vicente Nogueraa

a Departamento de Producción Vegetal, Universidad Politécnica de Valencia, P.O. Box 22012, E-46071 Valencia, Spain
b Departamento de Quı́mica, Universidad Politécnica de Valencia, P.O. Box 22012, E-46071 Valencia, Spain

Abstract

Selected physico-chemical and chemical characteristics of 13 coconut coir dust (mesocarp pithy tissue plus short-length fibres) samples from Asia, America and Africa were evaluated as peat alternatives. All properties studied differed significantly between and within sources, and from the control Sphagnum peat. pH of coir dust was slightly acidic, whereas salinity varied dramatically between 39 and 597 mS m−1 in the saturated media extract. The cation exchange capacity and carbon/nitrogen (C/N) ratio ranged from 31.7 to 95.4 View the MathML source and from 75 to 186, respectively. Most carbon was found as lignin and cellulose. The concentrations of available nitrogen, calcium, magnesium and micro-elements were low, while those of phosphorus and potassium were remarkably high (0.28–2.81 mol m−3 and 2.97–52.66 mol m−3 for P and K, respectively). Saline ion concentrations, especially chloride and sodium, were also high.

I'd venture to guess this study was conducted in the early years of coco, before manufactures got serious about consistency and quality. Coco used to vary ALOT, most of it being fairly poor quality. However in today's market that's not really a concern as the CEC has already been compensated for at the factory in most cases. CEC is just another facet to be considered when designing a flush, and nute regimen, no different from any other media. I've used literally hundreds of bricks of coco, and these days it's a very consistent product. This study shows nothing relevant to your argument. So keep em coming if ya can, I still haven't seen anything that factually supports your argument.


Carbon is important for plant growth... We're all made of it. Lignin is known for being slow to decompose and adds aeration to the coir. IDK if this is good or bad, it really depends on the available carbon to the plant... So I guess it depends on container size and the rate of decomposition.

If you are concerned about the levels of carbon in your soil (you really should be as an organic gardener), you can add it very cheaply with the addition of charcoal bits (Do not use the stuff for your bbq, unless it's the expensive pure lump coal with no glue or additives. There is also a horticulture version sold at nurseries) The lignin in coco is a good thing for those that wish to reuse their media. It's slow break down and resistance to packing, make it a great aeration amendment.

The only way to know for sure whats going on in the coco as far as CEC is to conduct soil tests. With soil tests you could potentially compensate for the high CEC and make more N, Ca, Mg, and micros available... but without knowing what you have, you're guessing... and chemical nutes do a good job of masking deficiencies.

True the only way to know for sure is with tests, but if you know how to read your plants they will tell you everything you are doing right, and wrong. Completely disagree that chemical nutes do a good job of masking deficiencies. That's utter bullshit.

I ran coco + synthetics for the last 3 years straight.... and every small grow I did before that time. I've been in peat for 6 months, and I've had the best results of my growing career. To each their own.

Again this is because you never dialed in your nute regimen for coco, and peat requires you to be less precise while still allowing for good growth. Not trying to sway your opinion of peat, just pointing out why you are seeing the results you are seeing. If it works better for you with your knowledge level/current setup at this time, by all means. I've always said a grower should do what works best for them. Just don't want many of the people that read your thread to think coco is shitty because you didn't dial it, and now think peat is superior. Feel free to try and prove me wrong, but I actually conducted my own studies with hundreds of cannabis plants. Even if all other factors were equal, coco would still win for speed and yield, if for no other reason then coco allows so much more air to the roots. Anybody want to try and prove aero doesn't grow/yield so well because of the higher oxygen levels in the root zone?

Just so ya know, i'm not picking you bro. Just trying to learn ya a thing or two :huggg:. Besides, our debates tend to bring up good information exchange :biggrin:.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Oh sure just gloss over the whole part of amending the coco with some form of carbon.:moon:

As for the CEC how is that affected by the micro herd? I would think that it would be greatly increased by the micro head.

I am somewhat skeptical of coco because advanced nutes was pushing it. That being said I still run coco because it is better for me. When I use my old coco in my garden I mix it with peat and NAPA floor dry so I can not say that it is better one way or the other.
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
Oh sure just gloss over the whole part of amending the coco with some form of carbon.:moon:

Principally it would be the same as adding to peat or soil. Charge it with a nitrogen source, and then apply in small quantities (1-3% of total soil volume is a good place to start). A water only coco based soil mix could be created if a person had a good understanding of coco's CEC requirements, and the decomposition rates of the amendments being used to supply nutes. There is a coco based LC's mix in the organic forum that has been used with decent results, though it still needs tweaking.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
I don't do organics because of the dust involved. I have no place to mix it with out creating dust. Several of my family have asthma and it is not a safe option currently.

I have mixed some supersoil with coco and the growth was incredable. But then again I had mixed peat in with it as well. I had tomatoe plants that were 8 plus feet tall and loaded with fruit.

And Mister D I have made my own charcol for my garden before. Right now I have a neighbor who calls the fire department every time I start a fire. They usually just tell me I am ok but it is a hassle. So I call the police for noise violations on their dog. So far I have zero fines and theirs is abot $750 and climbing.
 

silver hawaiian

Active member
Veteran
I don't do organics because of the dust involved. I have no place to mix it with out creating dust. Several of my family have asthma and it is not a safe option currently.

Ichy

Do you have enough space (and relative privacy, perhaps) outside?

I have the luxury of a shed for mixing/keeping soil, but even there, when I mix, I just spread out a tarp on the floor, dump everything, mix, stir/shuffle/mix, and then toss it back into a container. (I've found the big 54 gallon totes are the easiest - lower profile/more surface area than a trasn can)

:joint: What I'm trying to convey is that if you've got enough space outside to spread a tarp, you oughtta be able to make do with that, just for the hour or two it'll take to dump & mix, before putting it back into a container to continue its cookin'. :blowbubbles:
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Ichy

Do you have enough space (and relative privacy, perhaps) outside?

I:blowbubbles:


Not even close. Plus I have a nieghbor who just sits in the gargae and smokes all day looking at my house and yard. Hell the whole family does it. It is creepy.

I grow vert because I just don't have the room to do a flat grow as well. My last harvest was 8 pounds in a 70 square foot area. I almost ran out of smoke mid harvest so I can't really drop the amount of production and keep my patients and other caregivers satisfided. Not sure if I could even get close to the number with a flat in the same size space.
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
I grow vert because I just don't have the room to do a flat grow as well. My last harvest was 8 pounds in a 70 square foot area. I almost ran out of smoke mid harvest so I can't really drop the amount of production and keep my patients and other caregivers satisfided. Not sure if I could even get close to the number with a flat in the same size space.

I can see you are a man who likes his pudding :biggrin:
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Just so ya know, i'm not picking you bro. Just trying to learn ya a thing or two :huggg:. Besides, our debates tend to bring up good information exchange :biggrin:.

I think you're misunderstanding me when I talk about individual bacteria dying. I'm not referring to the bacterial colony, I'm referring to parts of the colony dying. Most of the nutrients consumed by the bacteria and other microbes living in the bio-film aren't plant available until the bacteria that consume them die. Bacteria have a short life span, and they are constantly multiplying and dying back.

I'm having a hard time understanding how you could build humus if you constantly disturbing the soil food web. Do the microbes regrow? yes! However the networks established that contribute to building humus take several growing seasons without disturbing the soil. It can't be accomplished in a single growing season. I'm specifically thinking about mycorrhizal fungi that act as extensions of the plant roots. they're networks can stretch for miles, and can even be utilized after dying. I believe that your coco is alive with microbes.. But if you really want the diversity you mentioned in our previous convo, you should really go no-till even with synthetic ferts. I should have taken pictures of the roots on the plants I just transplanted after reusing filled grow bags from my last grow....

If you're reading your plants for what they need, then they are displaying signs of deficiency before you correct the issue. I would rather spend the $25 on the soil test and know.

I had my coco dialed in a few grows... Particularly when I was growing in my condo, and living at the grow. Things went to shit with my absentee grow more so b/c of environment than anything related to coco. If I felt that I was missing out on something in peat I would have switched back to coco by now. Peat isn't slow at all when the soil is alive, and its more stable. Peat is actually less forgiving than coco. Coco's higher CEC means it has a higher buffering capacity, and is less subject to swings in pH. Its in the literature abstract I posted. Most of the nutrients added to peat are available to the plants, and not bound by the substrate.

and D... The only competition here is who can grow the biggest buds! coco or peat. :peacock:
 
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ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
thanks for all your contributions guys...just ordered my brix meter last night...

as for coco use i made my soil mix 50/50 coco/organic soil several years ago in 15 gal no till pots and the plants love it...peat is hard to get here and very expensive...
 
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