Soak valve for BHOgart extractor

[Hash Man]

Hi guys, i have an extracter thats like a terpenater. I am wonderin if there is any way to put a valve above the 2" looking glass so i can soak my column for as long as i want and then i want to dump the tane in manually by turning a valve, kind of like the extracers from concentrate industries. Any ideas?

 

[Lebniis]

You can use tri clamp components from glacier tank and the proper stainless steel fittings and ball valve (probably 1/4", same size as filling hose)

You'll use a 2" female npt adapter, 2" tri clamp and gasket as well as one 1/4" stainless npt male to male stainless fitting and a 1/4" ball valve. Ptfe tape of course

 

[Hash Man]

Nice, thnx for the tip. I grabbed this direct way ss304 ball valve.

 

[apollojmr]

Hey I am going to be a new Bhogart owner this week and I am somewhat of a newbie at this all. I am wondering if there are any instructional videos or tips of any kind that you know of? Thanks!

 

[Gray Wolf]

https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=47027&pictureid=1120252View Image

Nice, thnx for the tip. I grabbed this direct way ss304 ball valve.

Be careful. We started with a similar valve from Glacier Tanks, but switched to a three piece rebuildable valve, after having two of these style leak at the valve stem and it has no packing adjustment.

 

[Hash Man]

Ok thanks, i didnt see any improvement using the valve and it just seemed to slow the flow of butane down when inserting it with a can tapper. Im going to continue to just rinse, recover, and repeat. I was running at 80-90 psi with some indoor trim, and it came out really dark when i let it soak in the column for an hour. Also, after a few runs i already noticed the handle on this valve sticking pretty good, thanks for the warning.

Hey I am going to be a new Bhogart owner this week and I am somewhat of a newbie at this all. I am wondering if there are any instructional videos or tips of any kind that you know of? Thanks!

Hit up the guy who sells them and he will link you to an instructional video and/or an email with all the instructions. Its pretty easy once u get it down. Check this out in the mean time.

Extractor Operating Instructions




1) Always do Outside
2) Always do Outside
3) Review supplied facts on butane safety
4)Review supplied parts list to ensure all parts are present

Putting everything together


5)Place 3-4 coffee filters on base of extractor, inside the oil collection chamber, with supplied hose clamp. Rip filters to appropriate size
6) Fill the top tube with trim. A road cone or large funnel gets the job done pretty well.
7) Make sure all the gaskets, screen gaskets, and filters are in place and tighten all the tri clamps on the extractor.
8) Hang the manifold gauge set from the top tri clamp
9) Attach 3 60" hoses with the straight ends on the gauge set
10) the blue gauge goes to the top of the extractor
11) the middle line goes to the purge valve/ recovery tank
12) the red gauge on the manifold set goes to the red side of the recovery pump
13) Supplied purge valve goes on the end of the middle 60" line before the recovery tank
14) place a 12" hose with built in ball valve on the recovery tank. then connect it to the purge valve
15)Place the other 12" hose with ball valve and female to female coupler on the can tapper. the valve goes closest to the can tapper
16) Place the filter dryer on the blue side of the recovery pump
17) Place a 4th hose connecting the base of the extractor to the filter dryer on the blue side of the recovery pump
18) connect the 5th line to the purge port and vacuum pump


Operating instructions


Now that the extractor is filled with trim and all connected to the pump and recovery tank lets get started. Make sure the gauges on the recovery are wide open, straight up and down, on both sides. do not pay attention to these gauges.
1) open both sides of the manifold gauge set , blue and red wide open.
2) when there is no recovered butane in the recovery tank pull a vacuum on the extractor and recovery tank. On second and subsequent extractions there will be recovered butane in the recovery tank. So you need to burp off any uncompressible gas by simply cracking open the ball valve and releasing a little butane. If there is no butane in the recovery tank open both valves. If butane is in the recovery tank only open the valve to the extractor. Pull a full vacuum on the extractor -30 hg on the blue gauge on the manifold set.
3) Close valves isolating the extractor and recovery tank. Then shut off the vacuum pump.
4) Make the sure the extractor holds a full vacuum on the gauges and does not leak for a couple minutes.
5) Disconnect the vacuum pump and line from the purge valve
6)Use the supplied can tapper and hose with ball valve to load cans of butane into the system. (if using solvents from a tank see amended copy of instructions)
7) Close the valve on the can tapper so butane does not escape. Tap the canister of butane on the side, either the top or bottom. In the middle will simply crush the can.
8) before attaching can tapper to purge valve make sure all valves on extractor and recovery tank are closed and the unit is not leaking (-30 hg on the blue gauge )
9) Release a little butane through the hose to push the oxygen out of the line of the can tapper and During the connection to the purge port have a little butane flowing through the hose.
10) open the valve wide open on the can tapper
11) open the valve leading to the extractor and allow the butane to go into the extractor.
12) once can is completed close valve leading to extractor then valve on can tapper. Remove hose from purge port and take used can out of can tapper. The 1 Lb system uses roughly 4-5 cans of butane so when initially charging repeat steps 6-12 for each and every can of butane. The recovery tank valve has remained closed the whole time.
13) If you have recovered butane in the recovery tank, remember to burp tank, we usually top off the extractor with 1 can of butane to account for line loss and any butane in the extraction. Before opening the valve to use the recovery tank on the extractor add this can. then close the valve on the can tapper.
14) Have a ice bath with salt (Brine bath) to use on the recovery tank and some form of heat for the extractor. A heat gun, hot water, hot plate, etc this will turn the liquid butane into a gas faster
15) keep the recovery tank inverted in the ice bath, this will liquify the butane from a gas
16) once 4- 5 cans have been added or 1 can and the recovery tank turn on the recovery pump and start the extraction
17) The extractor can be run in two ways. One like a continuously recirculating shower or shower-recovery -shower -recovery.
18) when running like a continuous shower leave blue gauge wide open. Restrict red gauge to build 100 psi on red gauge. Make sure the gauge is pegged on your desired psi and not slowly crawling up
this creates a compression zone from the head of the pump to the manifold set recompressing the gas into a liquid.
19) Run the shower for 15-60 minutes depending upon your desired end product
20) when you want to recover you butane invert the recovery tank into the ice bath and if there was no butane in the system open the valve to the recovery tank. If it is already open leave it open. Open red valve all the way and close blue gauge ( Low side) on the gauge set. this forces the butane down the center line to the recovery tank.
21) Recover the butane until the blue gauge reads about 22 hg then close valve on the recovery tank and then shut off the recovery pump. The recovery pump does not like to run dry so it is recommended to stop at -22 hg
22) take the hose on the top of the extractor off and release whatever butane remains in the line. Canned butane has propane in it and has different pressure temperature relationships so it causes a little loss when disassembling the extractor. N butane will recover 100% Canned butane will get about 90% back due to the propane mixture.

23) Running the extractor as shower -recovery shower recovery mode: Simply open the red side valve (high side ) on the manifold set and close the blue side (low side) and invert the recovery tank in an ice bath. Make sure the valves to the tank are open and can tapper valve is closed. Recover the butane till the blue gauge (low side ) gets to zero. Turn the tank right side up again and open the blue gauge( low side ) wide open and then tighten the red gauge (high side ) back to 100 psi and watch for the gauge crawling up.





Helpful hints
If the extractor during recovery does not drop the low side (blue gauge ) on the manifold set simply add heat to the extractor base. You can tell the level of butane by the condensation line on the base. to much can be detrimental to the consistency of the extract. So use heat with caution.

If for some reason the extractor seems to be dry, does not produce an extraction , operates at a higher pressures than usual or does anything out of the ordinary let all the butane out of the entire system and pull a new vacuum on everything and start over.


The Blue gauge (low side ) operates normally between 25-50 psi . The red side when running in a continuous shower mode is restricted to about 100psi. the primary variables that control extracts consistency are pressure temperature , and time .

When operating as a shower-recovery shower recovery drop the psi on the blue gauge to 0 then reopen and dump back through.


Never Apply heat to the sight glass window


use alcohol and an abrasive sponge to clean the extractor and orings after every run


Vacuum purge your final product and get some killer wax. For the best results on wax stay between 120-140 under full vacuum for up to 15 hours .
For shatter or glass consistencies purge at 130-140 under full vacuum . Check out Bret Maverick on youtube for some great how to videos

the extractor is designed to recover the butane as a gas from the base of the extractor then recompress the gas back into a liquid to be blown back through the top. It can either be recompressed by restricting the red gauge (high side ) on the manifold or run as a shower -recovery shower - recovery. The ice bath causes the butane to liquify. Either way you go from gas to liquid gas to liquid etc. until you want to stop the extraction process

Adding heat to the base of the extractor causes the liquid butane to turn into gas. the more heat you apply the faster the liquid turns into a gas. The ice bath turns the gas into a liquid.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Thanks for sharing bro!

From the operating instructions, this design floods from the top, while our Terpenator is a bottom fill.

Does anyone have a picture of his shower head?

 

[Hash Man]

Thanks for sharing bro!

From the operating instructions, this design floods from the top, while our Terpenator is a bottom fill.

Does anyone have a picture of his shower head?

Is this what you mean? Shown below is the piece at the very top of the extractor, right no top of the 2" x 3' sanitary spool.

I didnt realize the terp flooded from the bottom. Thats pretty cool. Do you see any fundamental differences in showering from overhead or flooding from underneath, in relation to how the final extract should come out?

 

[Gray Wolf]

Is this what you mean? Shown below is the piece at the very top of the extractor, right no top of the 2" x 3' sanitary spool.

I didnt realize the terp flooded from the bottom. Thats pretty cool. Do you see any fundamental differences in showering from overhead or flooding from underneath, in relation to how the final extract should come out?
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Thanks for the pictures bro! Looks like it is just semantics, as it appears to be a simple injection port, which he uses the word shower to describe in his instructions.

I like a bottom fill, because the gas is lifted up and vented away by the incoming liquid as oppose to fighting the vapors trying to escape, by finding away around the incoming liquid. Even though the system starts out under vacuum, it looses that as soon as you introduce butane and it starts to turn to a gas.

In a top fill, you also have to supply the butane faster than it is draining, and find a way to vent the rising vapor, to fully flood the column.

I've never done a shootout with a BHOgart, but ostensibly with our full wetting of all material, including at the top of the column near the injection port, would give us an advantage on efficiency and yield. Believing that to be so, was why I went to the extra effort and expense to make the Tepenator a bottom flood.

 

[Hash Man]

For sure man, i never realized that the flow of solvent was going the other way with the terp. Would there be a conversion kit i could make so i could flood upwards if i wanted? When i run kief I am at a disadvantage when showering for sure, thus why i bought the ball valve. So, i take it you watch a pool of liquid tane form through the looking glass and watch it blast upwards? And you have enough solvent in the solvent tank to completly soak the column with liquid?

Also, is there a shower attatchment that would connect to the 1/4" pipe thread on the inside of my cap?

 

[jump117]

Flooding from the bottom eliminates the need for a uniform and dense packing,
as there is no effect of channelling with a supply/drain disbalance ?

 

[Gray Wolf]

For sure man, i never realized that the flow of solvent was going the other way with the terp. Would there be a conversion kit i could make so i could flood upwards if i wanted? When i run kief I am at a disadvantage when showering for sure, thus why i bought the ball valve. So, i take it you watch a pool of liquid tane form through the looking glass and watch it blast upwards? And you have enough solvent in the solvent tank to completly soak the column with liquid?

Also, is there a shower attatchment that would connect to the 1/4" pipe thread on the inside of my cap?

Don't know about a kit, but it would be easy to convert with some stainless tubing and valves. I would start by contacting the manufacturer and asking.

We don't typically use a looking glass. We can tell when the butane comes out of the top of the column, because the vent line turns ice cold when it hits it, and what is going on in the system overall, but the reading on the pressure gauge.

I've added one to the Mk V, so as to watch the color change as the material is stripped, and one will fit on the top of a Terpenator column, but make sure that you get suitable seals in the sight gauge. Some have silicone rubber seals, which isn't suitable.

Don't know about an off the shelf shower head, but if you just placed a perforated plate on top of the load, it would spread out the flow.

 

[tommyl]

so i got a bhogart extractor as well. and it came with a valve to run a soak . What i noticed was the bath produced a darker sappier product while the shower stayed nice and golden . Is there a a way to not get it coming out so dark? the market seems to hate this dark stuff.

 

[Hash Man]

so i got a bhogart extractor as well. and it came with a valve to run a soak . What i noticed was the bath produced a darker sappier product while the shower stayed nice and golden . Is there a a way to not get it coming out so dark? the market seems to hate this dark stuff.

Does the valve let you soak upwards? I found that trying to shower from the top with the soak valve closed just inhibited the flow of tane to a point to where it was flowing too slow. Its trapping the vapors below the liquid so u think a real soak is happening but its only soaking a small amount of the material, thats why the color is darker with the downward flow soak.... Thats my opinion. The bhogart works fine with a triple shower, i would like to see a final yield and product comparison with bhogart and terpenater someday.

Im still offering $1000 to anyone who can make wax with my material, and show me the method. If u have a terpenater that would be a plus, we could do some side by sides.....

 

[Gray Wolf]

so i got a bhogart extractor as well. and it came with a valve to run a soak . What i noticed was the bath produced a darker sappier product while the shower stayed nice and golden . Is there a a way to not get it coming out so dark? the market seems to hate this dark stuff.

We get dark and sappier when we use heat. Here is a picture of a prime bud extraction at 85F, using three soaks.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Does the valve let you soak upwards? I found that trying to shower from the top with the soak valve closed just inhibited the flow of tane to a point to where it was flowing too slow. Its trapping the vapors below the liquid so u think a real soak is happening but its only soaking a small amount of the material, thats why the color is darker with the downward flow soak.... Thats my opinion. The bhogart works fine with a triple shower, i would like to see a final yield and product comparison with bhogart and terpenater someday.

Im still offering $1000 to anyone who can make wax with my material, and show me the method. If u have a terpenater that would be a plus, we could do some side by sides.....

Hee, hee, hee, always willing to conduct a shoot out and help a brother achieve nirvana or at least wet skivies. Brang your BHOgart on, pick up dinner, and both the tea and crumpets, as well as the support is for free.

 

[tommyl]

Different materials yield different results is what i have noticed. I have run into 2 strains that refused to stabilize. after a bunch of techniques. I used straight non closed loop tubes to blast some and got the same gooey extract. i got the best results with good close unadulterated sugar trim that was not older than a month or two . Not ground up, fresh frozen, kief or any other type of prep. A higher end butane like newport, lucerene, or vector seems to work better with white filter.

 

[apollojmr]

Yo thanks!! I am using what you gave and waiting for them to complete a new video. In the meantime this is awesome! I am waiting a few weeks to do my first run because I want to soak up as much as possible before jumping in. Thanks again! I am sure I will be asking more stuff later.

 

[apollojmr]

I am very excited to learn this art!

 

[furrywall11]

@hashman what tommy said. your end result depends on your extract which depends a lot on your material. i have a bhogart too. i've been running some blue dream outdoor from last year and it came out as a goop that i've been having a hard time stabilizing as an amber glass- which i guess is the same thing as shatter. and then i tried doing the shower-recover for 30 mins instead of 60 and putting the buds and sugar trim whole instead of crumbling them. the result was a 25-%30 drop in yield but i was able to turn the extract into a nice hard amber glass. then i ran some blue dream x that's a lot fresher from my light dep, left it in a pyrex dish in my 80F garage for 24 hours after whipping it and, came back to an insane looking golden crumble substance that doesn't stick to the fingers and i don't know how to classify- still needs purging of course. with my green ribbon i left it out for 72 hours and came back to a half shatter half wax patty.

i'm a total beginner but may i suggest doing your extraction on some good fresh material, leaving it out for 24 hours and then vac at 120 for 10 hours and see what you get. that's what i'm going to try next on my quest for wax