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Broad Mites?
- Thread starter Grow Tech
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Some old dude
Member
A little off
A little off
You guys are a little off about what biological to use.Look up "Beavaria bassiana". one of the ingredients in Biowar. The fungus you guys are talking about works great on fungus knats and soil born pests . This "Beavaria Bassiana" is what is known to kill all sorts of mites. Just a little off if I understand you are talking about fungus for mite control.
A little off
You guys are a little off about what biological to use.Look up "Beavaria bassiana". one of the ingredients in Biowar. The fungus you guys are talking about works great on fungus knats and soil born pests . This "Beavaria Bassiana" is what is known to kill all sorts of mites. Just a little off if I understand you are talking about fungus for mite control.
So is pylon. Pylon can not be used outside. They just had a couple big bee kills with pylon. One was a mall that sprayed it and killed thousands of bees.
Pylon is very, very bad for bees.
growmore said they only sell it by the pallet. similar story at orange county nursery supply and crop production services. Grangettos in esco has it for $4/gal. bring your own container. 5 gallon minimum.
what's the dilutio ratio again?
5ml per gallon.....but it depends on your other Ratios ... maybe start with half that and work your way up
The various fungi spores in the OGBioWar Foliar Pack work best the closer you can get to 100% RH. I wasn't having much luck with it when my daytime RH was about 50%, but I've taken steps to get it to about 75% (higher at night), and it is making a dramatic difference.
http://www.bioone.org/doi/abs/10.1603/0046-225X-32.5.1154?journalCode=enve
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1744-7348.1979.tb07410.x/abstract
http://www.bioone.org/doi/abs/10.1603/0046-225X-32.5.1154?journalCode=enve
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1744-7348.1979.tb07410.x/abstract
Some old dude
Member
Good read
Good read
Good read ,thank you. If my outdoor and or indoor grow do well this time with occasional heat treatments and OGB sprays weekly/ bi-monthly I will be singing praises from the "Highest mountain tops". So far I have a good feeling and optimistic from the results so far. But time will tell when half way through flower should be the conclusive timeline factor for success or failure.
Good read
Good read ,thank you. If my outdoor and or indoor grow do well this time with occasional heat treatments and OGB sprays weekly/ bi-monthly I will be singing praises from the "Highest mountain tops". So far I have a good feeling and optimistic from the results so far. But time will tell when half way through flower should be the conclusive timeline factor for success or failure.
bubbler720
Member
Following the ovicide debate and doing research. Anyone test HexygonDF (Hexythiazox 50%)
"Hexygon Ovicide/Miticide provides effective control of major spider mite species." The label doesn't mention broad or cyclamen mites but Hexygon appears when cross-referencing cyclamen mites + ovicide.
Hexygon (6oz): $200
Kontos (8oz): $165
TetraSan (1lb): $100
Any feedback from ebay sales offering 1/4oz (7.4ml) containers of popular miticides: "Free all 3 miticide Forbid 4F Floramite SC Kontos miticide" for $55 ???
I payed $125 for 5,000 mixed species predator mites.
I bought them from Biconet dot com
I bought them from Biconet dot com
show
show
Just got back from the Maximum Yield Hydroponics Show, and got lots of stuff for pests.
Of course the usual stuff from SNS - SNS217. But they have a Systemic product called SNS209 now, got a sample of it.
Also a company called "Pure Nutrients" gave me samples of "Green Thumb" and "Kapow". "Green Thumb" uses Lemon Grass oil & Fish oil + Soap, the "Kapow" has a higher concentration of Lemon Grass Oil plus Castor Oil + Soap. Both claim to kill mites (all kinds) and their eggs. "Green Thumb" is for clones and newer plants, Kapow is for later stage plants.
And a product called "Dad's Mite Buster". Mainly Rosemary Oil, Polyglyceryl Oleate, Coconut Extract and Canola oil. It states it kills eggs too.
All brands are contact killers only, so complete coverage or repeat treatments are needed.
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Good show this year - tons of new products. One I am looking into is Induction Lighting, particularly the ones by Parlux. Man those things are bright, and give off almost no heat. You can put your hand on the built in ballast on the 1200 and it is just a tiny bit warm.
show
Just got back from the Maximum Yield Hydroponics Show, and got lots of stuff for pests.
Of course the usual stuff from SNS - SNS217. But they have a Systemic product called SNS209 now, got a sample of it.
Also a company called "Pure Nutrients" gave me samples of "Green Thumb" and "Kapow". "Green Thumb" uses Lemon Grass oil & Fish oil + Soap, the "Kapow" has a higher concentration of Lemon Grass Oil plus Castor Oil + Soap. Both claim to kill mites (all kinds) and their eggs. "Green Thumb" is for clones and newer plants, Kapow is for later stage plants.
And a product called "Dad's Mite Buster". Mainly Rosemary Oil, Polyglyceryl Oleate, Coconut Extract and Canola oil. It states it kills eggs too.
All brands are contact killers only, so complete coverage or repeat treatments are needed.
--------------
Good show this year - tons of new products. One I am looking into is Induction Lighting, particularly the ones by Parlux. Man those things are bright, and give off almost no heat. You can put your hand on the built in ballast on the 1200 and it is just a tiny bit warm.
A quick tip for indoor growers having a problem getting their humidity up.
If your in a master bedroom (or room with a full bathroom), turn the shower on hot and let it run until the room gets humid and steamy. Seems like a waste of water, but it's the same thing as watering your lawn or outdoor plants with a sprinkler for a few hours.
If your in a master bedroom (or room with a full bathroom), turn the shower on hot and let it run until the room gets humid and steamy. Seems like a waste of water, but it's the same thing as watering your lawn or outdoor plants with a sprinkler for a few hours.
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I was wondering that as well.
Also, it works by covering and suffocating bugs. So I am wondering what effect it would have if a predator mite gets hit with a drop of Neem oil spray, covering the bug?
I know Neem topically for humans is good for you, but for some bugs it seals up their bodies and all.
Also, I am wondering what it does to the predator mite eggs? Like - how can it not be bad for them if they get covered in sticky oil?
It's funny, I spent money on these things, and now I am concerned about killing them LOL.
Gonna order some more in a week. I will save one of the caps (with predators visable on it) and spray it with Neem. I'll post pics and report back.
I was gonna spray tonight again with the avid since its been three days, but I looked up the life cycle of the broad mite, and it might be better to wait till tomorrow. larva hatch in 2-3 days from being layed, then they go into a larvae stage for another 2-3 days, so waiting 4 days should get all the larva of the eggs that were layd 3 days ago before I sprayed. Another spraying in 4 more days will get all leftovers, then 4 days after that ogbiowar for any leftovers and prevention. then some predator mites will be released a week or 2 later and Im done messin with um for the outdoor season.
Some old dude
Member
Cool
Cool
Will be looking at the systemic for sure. I figure as many safe options in combination sooner or later a solid working plan should emerge. Thanks for the info.
Cool
Will be looking at the systemic for sure. I figure as many safe options in combination sooner or later a solid working plan should emerge. Thanks for the info.
i suspect a big part of the issue with zapping these fuckers is not that they are particularly tough to kill. it's that it's easy enough to miss spots while spraying, especially if you've got a sizable garden and since they seem to like posting up in the tops.
anyone try an atomizer yet? get complete coverage without limiting yourself to the agents that come ready made as foggers. i've been meaning to get one anyway since i hate being in the room to spray, tyvek suit and respirator or no.
anyone try an atomizer yet? get complete coverage without limiting yourself to the agents that come ready made as foggers. i've been meaning to get one anyway since i hate being in the room to spray, tyvek suit and respirator or no.
The two factors that took me from "these jokers are invincible" to "no worse than anyting else" were adding an ovicide and dipping in 55g garbage cans to insure complete coverage. It's game over for them.......
Peace
I've seen the eggs still attached to the leaves up to a month or more after killing the BMs.
the plants were isolated out of the garden, i scoped regularly and never saw a single live one after that.
but just seeing the dead eggs sends shivers thru tha body
LOL.... looks like were vets from the 1st world war retro
dealing these suckers for 3 years feels like way more.
i thought i was also dealing with TMV,
then some type of off gassing,
then my water supply, so i had it tested.
I was literally throwing in the towel after back to back crop losses when it was philthy dropped by and said this is what it is.
I agree whats been said above,
killing BMs is easy now that i know what i'm up against and what to use to kill em.
BUT
they are so tiny, getting them out of your enviroment is the prob.
BMs can survive off of dead leaves, so a small piece of leaf can sustain them for months.
drop size
drop size
123,189 drops of water can fit on a square inch of leaf at the smallest droplet size possible.
The more droplets per inch, the more likely it is an insect will have to make contact with the insecticide.
If the drops are too large, the insects can easily walk around the droplets, the bugs are extremely small.
Atomizers should work best. Dunking plants still leaves water bubbles around the plant. Submerge a part of a leaf in a dish of water, then scope it. You will see lots of areas where air bubbles have accumulated on the leaf surface. Best way it to dunk and then rub along each and every leaf (if possible)
http://www.ipmnet.umd.edu/greenhous...d Extension-Part 1 Insects Diseases Other.pdf
drop size
123,189 drops of water can fit on a square inch of leaf at the smallest droplet size possible.
The more droplets per inch, the more likely it is an insect will have to make contact with the insecticide.
If the drops are too large, the insects can easily walk around the droplets, the bugs are extremely small.
Atomizers should work best. Dunking plants still leaves water bubbles around the plant. Submerge a part of a leaf in a dish of water, then scope it. You will see lots of areas where air bubbles have accumulated on the leaf surface. Best way it to dunk and then rub along each and every leaf (if possible)
http://www.ipmnet.umd.edu/greenhous...d Extension-Part 1 Insects Diseases Other.pdf
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hydro industry is a joke.... they pretend the rest of the indoor gardening industry doesn't exist and they don't even look to em for products and ideas to use anymore
Actually, at the SF show there were tons of people dabbing at their booths and people using those vapor pens. Cannabinoid Testing companies had booths there, Ed Rosenthal had a booth there with his insecticide product, and many people were openly discussing their products use with cannabis.
The little cards they handed out at the front was pre- formed to be folded into a cool little cardboard pouch made for rolling joints. I'm keeping those LOL This San Francisco show is quite a bit different than the others I've been too.
Tons of free stuff - from smart pots (lots of dif companies), to free soil (Vermicrop), free coco (Botanicare), free CO2 mushroom bags, free brewed mirco tea (gallons), free cloning trays and rockwool cube sheets, free spray bottles (Mondi), hella nutes from all kinds of companies. Pus - you can see all the stuff in action (like the massive Current Culture 13 gallon systems, set up with Orca film on the walls of a pre-fab 10'x10' easy-up SOLID WALL room with built in ventilation and lighting, completely sealed - cool shit IMO). You could also walk into full 20 light set-up grows inside the back of a semi-truck, electrical panel inside and all, ready to be purchased and pulled up onto your property. DJ's playing, performers, everyones got free food and drinks they pass out at the booths along with the free gear.
Can't wait until next year.
The little cards they handed out at the front was pre- formed to be folded into a cool little cardboard pouch made for rolling joints. I'm keeping those LOL This San Francisco show is quite a bit different than the others I've been too.
Tons of free stuff - from smart pots (lots of dif companies), to free soil (Vermicrop), free coco (Botanicare), free CO2 mushroom bags, free brewed mirco tea (gallons), free cloning trays and rockwool cube sheets, free spray bottles (Mondi), hella nutes from all kinds of companies. Pus - you can see all the stuff in action (like the massive Current Culture 13 gallon systems, set up with Orca film on the walls of a pre-fab 10'x10' easy-up SOLID WALL room with built in ventilation and lighting, completely sealed - cool shit IMO). You could also walk into full 20 light set-up grows inside the back of a semi-truck, electrical panel inside and all, ready to be purchased and pulled up onto your property. DJ's playing, performers, everyones got free food and drinks they pass out at the booths along with the free gear.
Can't wait until next year.
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