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Noobin up a PPK

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Its wierd, plants have been flowering for less than 4 weeks and already im getting some leaf yellowing. This is double wierd because im using the new nute regime that D9 suggested thats much heavier in N and lower in P than usual. Basically MaxiGrow (not MaxiBloom) and i wouldnt ever expect the leaves to go yellow.

Stolen from Big Johns thread :


I guess i have to look into my forms of N in my MaxiGrow now too ...

EDIT :

View Image

1.5% Ammonia Nitrogen
8.5% Nitrate Nitrogen

I guess thats good?

I still havent brought a crop to finish with this formula and im a bit toey is all.

i still think you are having over watering problems.

have you ever actually measured the amount of water you are using with each pulse and the precise amount of medium you are using?

the roots plugging the drains before your switch to the 80 mm drains are a result of running too much water through the medium too often, causing the roots to follow a channel.

i'm sure you are getting some dispersal but when one part of the medium is always wetter than another part the roots will tend to follow the wetter pathway at the expense of lateral dispersion.

a properly operated wave pulse is applied in small amounts frequently. amounts small enough so that the wave is just "sent" through the medium instead of "forced" through with a lot of excess water.

i'm not having a great day so i'm not sure i'm saying this right but the pressure from the top, the input, needs to be relieved before a lot of water builds up in the medium.

relieving the mass of water you have just applied of the propulsion represented by a sustained input of water. relieving it immediately after application but before the water reaches the bottom.

just a shot at a time, frequently.

this allows hysteresis to occur in an already wet medium. hysteresis is the lag time allowing dispersal to occur.

even dispersal.

water microscopically "jumps to wet" and resist going into dry.

hydrophilic and hydrophobic.

this does not have to be a completely wet/dry scenario as the water will still tend to run to areas that are just simply more wet than other areas. this is because of cohesion.

i don't know, it may be something else entirely but considering the fact that you are not measuring the amount you are applying i think it's a good guess.

you can't make accurate corrections if you don't know the starting point.

but you should be using the bloom formula by now, too.

i'm at a big disadvantage trying to diagnose problems at long distance.

back when i ran coco in 3.5 gal buckets with a single tailpiece i was doing a wave type pulse.

i experimented a lot but for a while i was applying 4 oz's every 15 minutes. grew beautiful plants

just a little shot that kept the medium from drying and concentrating salts and refreshed the gases in the root zone.

i also used 32 oz's every 30-45 minutes successfully. grew beautiful plants.

you need a better timer.

the discussion on big john's thread about the forms of nitrogen would only be important to you if you are running ro water or extremely good water like john is.

it's either a mechanical problem caused by improper watering or a chemical imbalance caused by everything that's in your res.

there's nothing else in this device.

just because one person gets great results with a nutrient product does not mean that you will. again because of the differences in water quality.

i know that i have never, in the last 4 years since i began playing around with these ideas, lost a plant for any reason due to a mechanical failure or nutrient problem.

and if you look back through the threads i have done here you will only see healthy plants.

i have had slow drains in the grow where i used the larger containers with single tailpieces but i realized it was happening and took steps to save everything.

i wish i were there to help.
 
D

DaveTheNewbie

i still think you are having over watering problems.

have you ever actually measured the amount of water you are using with each pulse and the precise amount of medium you are using?

im watering for 3 minutes per 2 hours ... I measured the amount I water in 1 minute and its exactly 4 litres, 2 per plant. So each plant is getting 6 litres per feed event in a 12 litre pot

the roots plugging the drains before your switch to the 80 mm drains are a result of running too much water through the medium too often, causing the roots to follow a channel.

no doubt that was the way before, it shouldnt be now though?

i'm not having a great day so i'm not sure i'm saying this right but the pressure from the top, the input, needs to be relieved before a lot of water builds up in the medium.

relieving the mass of water you have just applied of the propulsion represented by a sustained input of water. relieving it immediately after application but before the water reaches the bottom.

your coming through loud and clear good buddy

the discussion on big john's thread about the forms of nitrogen would only be important to you if you are running ro water or extremely good water like john is.

I am using RO water.

it's either a mechanical problem caused by improper watering or a chemical imbalance caused by everything that's in your res.

there's nothing else in this device.

and thats the beauty of it :)

but you should be using the bloom formula by now, too.

This line really threw me big time. We had long and complex talks about nutes a few months ago. I thought the conclusion was to aim for something as close as possible to :

N:150 P:50 K:200 Ca:150 Mg:75 (N:3 P:1 K:4 Ca:3 Mg:1.5)

Im currently running in 30 litres of RO water : 25g GH MaxiGrow, 25ml GH CaMg+, 5ml GH Floralicious+, and 30ml BudLink (silica). Ignoring the silica and floralicious+ I have :

MaxiGrow : N:10 P:5 K:14 Ca:6 Mg:2
CaMg+ : N:0 P:0 K:0 Ca:5 Mg:1
Combined : N:10 P:5 K:14 Ca:11 Mg:3 (N:2 P:1 K:3 Ca:2 Mg:0.6)

Its a little short on Mg, and i noticed that my mate Bobbles mentioned this:

N isn't the only thing that contributes to color of the leaves...

Mg plays a key role in photosynthesis, as well as Ca playing a huge role in overall plant health.

If i shouldnt be using this nute regime, please tell me now. I have no experience with this, and my mate in the hydro shop looks at me like im a fucking retard for even trying it. Plants look lovely except for a few rare fading leaves. Im doing all this on the assumption that i was told this is a good thing, and ive got alot riding on it. I have packets of MaxiBloom i could always use instead if thats a better idea.
 

bobblehead

Active member
Veteran
Put a 1/2 teaspoon of epsom salts into a gallon of water, spray the leaves, see what happens... That'll let you know if you're deficient in Mg.
 
D

DaveTheNewbie

Put a 1/2 teaspoon of epsom salts into a gallon of water, spray the leaves, see what happens... That'll let you know if you're deficient in Mg.

thats my kind of answer : try something simple and see what happens
 

SRGB

Member

DaveTheNewbie:

The plants didnt look "right" to me.


Hi, DaveTheNewbie.

Which parts? New or old growth? At the veins, or edges?

Your nutrients appear to contain all of the elements a given specimen might require. The cause might not be nutrient related, as has been mentioned in posts. Lack of oxygen, or, over saturated media could cause observable changes in foliage. Maxi series could be mixed at 50% each. Floralicious could be foliar fed at a diluted rate, along with the options noted by gardeners.

Best,
/SRGB/
 
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cyat

Active member
Veteran
I am using RO water.

maxibloom should keep it green w/ out any grow

try using tap... works better for me.... maxi doesnt mix too good either

any gnats?
 
I'd raise the root zone ph and hit it with Epsom salt.
Worked for me every time once I realized chasing high dollar snake oil notes wasn't the answer.
 
D

DHF

K.I.S.S.....It`s the little things that get shit back on track and fix things.......usually....

I agree with Bobbles....but.....X can be anything....and straight maxibloom`s been the K.I.S.S formula for Lucas substitution for a while now , but last time you thought yas needed more N in the mix thus movin to the "grow" right ?.......regardless.....

Good luck Bro.....

Peace....Freds.......:ying:.....
 

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
geez dave and you were getting so so close...

honestly after following your, D9 and various other PPk grows i still don't know how they work....that's why i like pouring water on to dirt...nice and simple and for me...not easy to fuck up...

all the best....
 
D

DaveTheNewbie

Which parts? New or old growth? At the veins, or edges?

new growth. Leaves are multiple but small. they lack the deep green that i associate with a healthy plant. Its good to hear you confirm that my current nute regime seems acceptable.

maxibloom should keep it green w/ out any grow ... try using tap... works better for me ... maxi doesnt mix too good either ... any gnats?

no bugs. I used to run maxibloom, changed to maxigrow on advisement. I have 3-4 unopened packs of both here so i can change easily. No bugs of any sort :)

I'd raise the root zone ph and hit it with Epsom salt.
Worked for me every time once I realized chasing high dollar snake oil notes wasn't the answer.

yup ive had this advice from a friend also.

K.I.S.S.....It`s the little things that get shit back on track and fix things.......usually....

I agree with Bobbles....but.....X can be anything....and straight maxibloom`s been the K.I.S.S formula for Lucas substitution for a while now , but last time you thought yas needed more N in the mix thus movin to the "grow" right ?.......regardless.....

it doesnt get much more KISS than what im running. Jacks would be the only option. and i like silica when growing trees, it holds them together.

geez dave and you were getting so so close...

its not a big problem, im just getting on top of things early before they become a big problem.
 
hey brother, Im just curious what your rez temp and rootzone temp is.
Wish I could see what the rootball looks/feels like..
are you using the 'pulse feed'? or what...

sorry for all the questions, but these things keep me up at night. LOL. even if its not MY issue right now. :)

Best of luck. You'll get it done.
 
D

DaveTheNewbie

hey brother, Im just curious what your rez temp and rootzone temp is.
Wish I could see what the rootball looks/feels like..
are you using the 'pulse feed'? or what...

sorry for all the questions, but these things keep me up at night. LOL. even if its not MY issue right now. :)

Best of luck. You'll get it done.

RULE #1 : ask any question you want. If i dont like the question then i will fly over to the other side of the world just to let you know :)

i have a heater in each control rez set at about 26 degrees (real numbers not US numbers)

i have pictures of the rootball a few pages back but its basically a perlite ball that you can pull out and nothing slips away. Its solid with roots (unlike when i started)

dont loose sleep over me, im a hobby grower that likes to fuck about and and do sillly shit

and right now im bent and twisted with Fleetwood Mac blasting away in the headphones at full bore.

Much love, Dave
 
D

DHF

RULE #1 : ask any question you want. If i dont like the question then i will fly over to the other side of the world just to let you know :)

i have a heater in each control rez set at about 26 degrees (real numbers not US numbers)

i have pictures of the rootball a few pages back but its basically a perlite ball that you can pull out and nothing slips away. Its solid with roots (unlike when i started)

dont loose sleep over me, im a hobby grower that likes to fuck about and and do sillly shit

and right now im bent and twisted with Fleetwood Mac blasting away in the headphones at full bore.

Much love, Dave
Saw this and hadta post before b`fast........Love me some Dave......Fleetwood Mac will setchas free.........

FISH......Fuck it shit happens........We live and we learn......as it should be....all things are revealed with time and experience gained.....and hey.....

You`re getting there my down under buddy....bet on it.....

Peace.....Freds.....:ying:......
 
D

DaveTheNewbie

Saw this and hadta post before b`fast........Love me some Dave......Fleetwood Mac will setchas free.........

FISH......Fuck it shit happens........We live and we learn......as it should be....all things are revealed with time and experience gained.....and hey.....

You`re getting there my down under buddy....bet on it.....

Peace.....Freds.....:ying:......

dunno if im getting there, but fuck knows im walking in that direction

Much love Freddy!
 

SRGB

Member
SRGB:
Which parts? New or old growth? At the veins, or edges?



DaveTheNewbie:
new growth. Leaves are multiple but small. they lack the deep green that i associate with a healthy plant. Its good to hear you confirm that my current nute regime seems acceptable.


Hi, DaveTheNewbie,

We do recollect mentioning the Maxi series in a post recently. It could be mixed with MaxiBloom. Or, the soilless gardener could switch to MaxiBloom at a certain point in the season, or, as was mentioned, use MaxiBloom alone.

What we found during experiments with SRBGB`s and our attempts to reduce waste and nutrient usage, was that, in general, plants or trees do not require an array of fertilizers to grow and flower in good health.

After these observations were made by us, we found that other factors might lead to symptoms that a gardener might attribute to a nutrient deficiency or excess. Lack of oxygen in the root zone, especially when coupled with a constantly saturated medium, could be the cause of the most common visually apparent ill health symptoms.

In any event, there are, perhaps, simple remedies that may alleviate the progression of the observed ill health symptoms for future new growth, as it might be extremely difficult to impossible for a gardener to revert a leaf showing ill health to a healthy appearing leaf. If the specimen is rapidly growing, it might be much more efficient to cull the ill health appearing parts.

Youngest leaves might be most attributable to magnesium demand. Application of Mg at a very small rate might help there. Also, as we briefly mentioned in our previous post, foliar feeding Floralicious (since you listed it as on hand) might return the lushness that desire, specifically in the newest growth. Only 1 or 2 drops per 1 liter spray bottle, set to mist, might be a rewarding experiment, if you have not tried foliar feeding Floralicious previously. Is it Floralicious Plus, or regular? Either might work well for such an application, though the Plus type might simply require even less than 2 drops to be effective, for what you are seeking (lush new growth with robust colour). Might take a day or so, yet the response to that particular supplement to appear to enhance the apparent palor of plants or trees in general; at the least
we found it to be advantageous and capableof illiciting visual robustness within days of application.

We are not recommending any particular fertilizer or amendment, or supplement; we are only sharing soilless gardening techniques that might be helpful. Please exercise your own moderation when trying any gardening technique.

Best,
/SRGB/
 
D

DaveTheNewbie

ok bear with me, its Smashing Pumpkins playing Siameese Dreams atm

O2 shouldnt be an issue becauee im feeding 3 minutes per hour into perlite

and yes i plucked the few faded leaves.

its floralicious +

it sound slike your also on the +Mg bandwagon, just like bobbles. @ great brains > me
 
D

DaveTheNewbie

shit photo sunday

shit photo sunday

welcome one and all to another weekly update of shit photo sunday. I was told the camera on my new phone was supposed to be a good one, but it doesnt seem so.

Today is the first day in many months that all my cabs are full.

Phase 1 : 4 weeks of flowering done, 5th started out of 8. Half way there folks!

picture.php


picture.php


Phase 2 : just moved into flowering today. 4 weeks veg finished.

picture.php


Phase 3 : clones going into veg today

picture.php
 
Last edited:

SRGB

Member
DaveTheNewbie:
ok bear with me, its Smashing Pumpkins playing Siameese Dreams atm

O2 shouldnt be an issue becauee im feeding 3 minutes per hour into perlite

and yes i plucked the few faded leaves.

its floralicious +

it sound slike your also on the +Mg bandwagon, just like bobbles. @ great brains > me


Hi, DaveTheNewbie.

Concerning oxygen and saturation, are you certain that your drainage channels, and, or, media wicks are free of accumulated blockage?

We only mentioned Floralicious as an alternative supplement. We are not endorsing the product and we are not guranteeing any results from its prospective usage. We are only posting that it might be a supplement, requiring only drops per liter for application, and possessing potentially beneficial properties. We attempted to defer any suggestion for remedies until the affected parts of the specimen were posted. If the tops were yellowing, the issue might have been calcium or iron.

Relevant to `bandwagon`s, we try to avoid such conveyances and would prefer to trek long, winding paths on our own pedals.

Best,
/SRGB/
 
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