Broad Mites?

[Messodas]

There is a guy in Ireland selling on Ebay. It is not the exact same mix, but I believe it will work.

Thanks Man.
I found it and ordered immediately, all three types.
I hope that's not too late. I'm like 20 days in flowering, and another week to get the stuff....
I learned a thing, thanks again...
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.
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[RetroGrow]

That's bunk. The damage that broad mites cause to plants is from the toxins they inject, not from viruses. Thanks for making stuff up, though. Initially, people thought broad mite damage was TMV or some other virus. That was before peeps began scoping their plants and were able to see their enemy. There is a thread here about TMV, and even OP has now come to the conclusion that it wasn't TMV or any other virus causing the damage, but rather BMs and the toxins they inject.

 

[bubbler720]

broad or other eggs?

broad or other eggs?

he's got Super BM's and nothing is phasing them...When going Nuclear is not getting the Job Done...its time to go Super Saiyan level 5

clarified hydrophobic extract of neem at higher doses is better than Azadirachtin ... works right away as a contact killer of all stages of BM's and with extra benefits like controlling plant diseases

Any Home Depot or Lowes will have Triple Action Neem oil aka %70 clarified hydrophobic extract of neem ... if you dip clones at 60ml a gallon.... Some genetics get upset...but most take it in stride

Still no positive ID: these eggs BMs? taken off 10 day old seedling...

 

[Storm Shadow]

Still no positive ID: these eggs BMs? taken off 10 day old seedling...

[URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=229419&thumb=1"]View Image[/URL]

[URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=229420&thumb=1"]View Image[/URL]

Retro already called it out ...

http://www.entomology.umn.edu/cues/inter/inmine/Mitesc.html

CYCLAMEN MITE

 

[bubbler720]

cyclamen mites

cyclamen mites

Retro already called it out ...

http://www.entomology.umn.edu/cues/inter/inmine/Mitesc.html

CYCLAMEN MITE

Thank you Retro and Storm, the pic on the link you sent helps to confirm cyclamen:



I'm trying to keep my shit together -- not easy when 10 day old seedlings already have cyclamen. Moving forward with strategy options to treat 10 day old seedlings:

1. University MN + backed up by several other university/science based sites: soak plants 15 min in 109.5 F water / or another recommends 7min @ 115 F water (use only as a last resort)

2. Storm: triple action neem dip 60ml/gal

3. Retro: heat treatment + aspirin

4. Moses: swirskii pred mites

5. OrganicOzarks: I saw a different thread you started 'cyclamen mites':

So I have what appears to be cyclamen mite damage. I have been looking at leaves under the scope for about a week now, and I have yet to find a mite. I have found eggs on a couple of leaves, but no critters.....

Did you ever confirm you had cyclamen mites not broad mites? Clearly by your posts you're stoked and satisfied with OGBiowar Foliar pack, and it appears from their website I can use the Root pack to drench in rock wool + start seeds.

few questions on the OGbiowar foliar:
1. ok to use as a dunk?
2. ok to dunk 2 week old seedlings?
3. spray 1xweek -- any rotations? -- or are you having luck with OGBiowar alone

 

[RetroGrow]

The aspirin is not necessary. I have still yet to see anyone post up any science behind the aspirin in relationship to broad mite damage.

If you get rid of the broad mites you will be fine. That being said I did have some plants that were started from seed die. Cannabis, Eggplant, Jalapeno, Serrano, and a few other things. All of my mothers, clones, and bigger veg plants made it through just fine. All of my older veggie plants were fine too. They are actually flowering as we speak.

I have a room that is vegging right now that I am going to flip in about 8 days. You would never have known they had broad mites. Early clones, and seedlings are going to take the hit. The rest should pull through no problem.

My garden is back to where it was before the broad mites, and it has only been 6 weeks since my first application.

I honestly don't know why some people are having problems for up to a year. They must not be getting rid of the mites completely.

Re: Aspirin-It stimulates plants immune system, not just in cannabis, but all plants. A little Googling will explain it. Also Google "Willow water".
Re: why people still have them after a year: they continue to enter the grow space from outside or from the immediate environment.
I wanted to ask you if you could post any pictures. Before & after treatment with OGBiowar, or just after, if you have any.

 

[RetroGrow]

Thank you Retro and Storm, the pic on the link you sent helps to confirm cyclamen:

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=229553&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

I'm trying to keep my shit together -- not easy when 10 day old seedlings already have cyclamen. Moving forward with strategy options to treat 10 day old seedlings:

1. University MN + backed up by several other university/science based sites: soak plants 15 min in 109.5 F water / or another recommends 7min @ 115 F water (use only as a last resort)

2. Storm: triple action neem dip 60ml/gal

3. Retro: heat treatment + aspirin

4. Moses: swirskii pred mites

5. OrganicOzarks: I saw a different thread you started 'cyclamen mites':



Did you ever confirm you had cyclamen mites not broad mites? Clearly by your posts you're stoked and satisfied with OGBiowar Foliar pack, and it appears from their website I can use the Root pack to drench in rock wool + start seeds.

few questions on the OGbiowar foliar:
1. ok to use as a dunk?
2. ok to dunk 2 week old seedlings?
3. spray 1xweek -- any rotations? -- or are you having luck with OGBiowar alone

Do not dunk seedlings in hot water. It will probably kill them. Do not even dunk grown plants in hot water. They don't like it.
In my experience with seedlings, a dose of aspirin, 325 Mg. per gallon, or a foliar spray of same will perk them right back up. I've done it numerous times on seedlings that had Cyclamen mites before I knew what the problem was, and seedlings perked back up to normal in 12 hours. The aspirin helps seedling resist the toxins that the Cyclamen mites produce. I think you may have other issues there too, like too much water, and I still say your PH is too low. I would keep it in 5.8-6.0 range.
Seedlings look stunted, and that's usually a PH problem. My seedlings with cyclamens never showed symptoms until 2 weeks, but before the symptoms, they are always bigger and hardier than yours look. Then they begin to droop, until the aspirin hits them and they perk back up. That's why I think you have multiple issues. Look in my gallery for pix of some seedlings with cyclamens. That was before anyone knew what they were....
By the way, cyclamens produce many more eggs than Broads, and 80% of newborn are female.

 

[bubbler720]

Do not dunk seedlings in hot water. It will probably kill them. Do not even dunk grown plants in hot water. They don't like it.
In my experience with seedlings, a dose of aspirin, 325 Mg. per gallon, or a foliar spray of same will perk them right back up. I've done it numerous times on seedlings that had Cyclamen mites before I knew what the problem was, and seedlings perked back up to normal in 12 hours. The aspirin helps seedling resist the toxins that the Cyclamen mites produce. I think you may have other issues there too, like too much water, and I still say your PH is too low. I would keep it in 5.8-6.0 range..

Thanks Retro... but I already dunked a sampling of seedlings in 110 F water for 15 min - will report results. today did light watering with kelp and ph 6.8 (runoff resulted in 6.0).

going to do a sample aspirin spray when lights go out -- you don't mention a surfactant like indicate... gonna spray with 1 x 325mg aspirin/gal RO water

 

[bubbler720]

By the way, cyclamens produce many more eggs than Broads, and 80% of newborn are female.

Where are all the eggs coming from if I can't find an adult anywhere? The seedling leafs are TINY and I've scoped a wide sample, there's eggs about everywhere (WTF!!!) and no adults to be found...

 

[OrganicOzarks]

Thank you Retro and Storm, the pic on the link you sent helps to confirm cyclamen:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=229553View Image

I'm trying to keep my shit together -- not easy when 10 day old seedlings already have cyclamen. Moving forward with strategy options to treat 10 day old seedlings:

1. University MN + backed up by several other university/science based sites: soak plants 15 min in 109.5 F water / or another recommends 7min @ 115 F water (use only as a last resort)

2. Storm: triple action neem dip 60ml/gal

3. Retro: heat treatment + aspirin

4. Moses: swirskii pred mites

5. OrganicOzarks: I saw a different thread you started 'cyclamen mites':



Did you ever confirm you had cyclamen mites not broad mites? Clearly by your posts you're stoked and satisfied with OGBiowar Foliar pack, and it appears from their website I can use the Root pack to drench in rock wool + start seeds.

few questions on the OGbiowar foliar:
1. ok to use as a dunk?
2. ok to dunk 2 week old seedlings?
3. spray 1xweek -- any rotations? -- or are you having luck with OGBiowar alone

I thought I had cyclamen mites, but after closer inspection the eggs were broad mite eggs.

All you have to do is foliar feed all of your plants with the ogbiowar. No dunking necessary. You can not over apply, but more than a couple of times per week will just be wasting money.

 

[OrganicOzarks]

These are a few days over 5 weeks

Apollo 13


Headband



Headband



The White



I think another Apollo 13

 

[OrganicOzarks]

Apollo 13 Group shot



Headband



I grow in recycled soil in 3 gallon smart pots. I only feed compost tea. My plants don't tend to get to large, but overall my yields do ad up.

I treated these 1 week before flower with OGBIOWAR Foliar pack. I have been treating them twice a week since. So it has been about 6 weeks since first treatment. I will switch to once per week on all plants in August. I have stopped using everything else except the OGBIOWAR Foliar. It could not get much easier to grow than to use this shit. I had 5 different things in rotation before, and now I am just using the one thing. We will see what the future brings as only time will tell. I will say that in my outdoor vegetable garden Grasshoppers are few, and far between. I usually spend a lot of time outside smashing grasshoppers, and this year there are none to smash.

This shit works!

 

[Budwhyser]

Interesting read

http://www.chattanoogarose.org/spider_mites.htm

 

[RetroGrow]

Where are all the eggs coming from if I can't find an adult anywhere? The seedling leafs are TINY and I've scoped a wide sample, there's eggs about everywhere (WTF!!!) and no adults to be found...

Your "eggs" look more like trichomes to me. Eggs are "cloudy". Your pix have transparent, shiny looking things which may or may not be trichomes. Hard to say, but eggs are oval shaped and not transparent. They look cloudy.

 

[bubbler720]

Your "eggs" look more like trichomes to me. Eggs are "cloudy". Your pix have transparent, shiny looking things which may or may not be trichomes. Hard to say, but eggs are oval shaped and not transparent. They look cloudy.

Man I wish they were trichomes. Trichomes form uniformly at the end of hairs during flowering. My seedlings are 10 days old, not auto flower, haven't produced any THC nor Trichomes...
TRICHOMES:


The cloudy bumps (eggs) shown in my pic (day 10 seedlings, 1st leaf set) are scattered - mainly at the base of the stem and in bunches. There are none at the end of hairs - they're all stuck against the leaf.:
MY PIC:



CYCLAMEN MITES: (from the scientists: http://www.entomology.umn.edu/cues/inter/inmine/Mitesc.html)




I've only been at this a couple of months -- far from expert status -- so I'm not claiming 100% sure cyclamen mites, my approach is scientific ie no hypothesis is wrong, but based on what I'm seeing and the circumstances (age of plant) I think trichomes can be ruled out.

Update: nothing dead from hot water dunk. new dunk today: natria by bayer: 10% sulfur + .25% pyrethrins today, max treatment diluted 5oz/gal

 

[RetroGrow]

Apollo 13 Group shot

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=47368&pictureid=1106459&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]

Headband

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=47368&pictureid=1106460&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]

I grow in recycled soil in 3 gallon smart pots. I only feed compost tea. My plants don't tend to get to large, but overall my yields do ad up.

I treated these 1 week before flower with OGBIOWAR Foliar pack. I have been treating them twice a week since. So it has been about 6 weeks since first treatment. I will switch to once per week on all plants in August. I have stopped using everything else except the OGBIOWAR Foliar. It could not get much easier to grow than to use this shit. I had 5 different things in rotation before, and now I am just using the one thing. We will see what the future brings as only time will tell. I will say that in my outdoor vegetable garden Grasshoppers are few, and far between. I usually spend a lot of time outside smashing grasshoppers, and this year there are none to smash.

This shit works!

So before the OGBIOWAR, you were using Avid, Forbid, etc.? And did this clear up the BMs? Were the plants "clean" before the OGBIOWAR? The reason I ask is because I want to know if this stuff will knock down a full fledged outbreak, or if it is just for maintenance of plants that have already been treated? Do you think your plants would be the same if you didn't use the other chems first, and just started with OGBIOWAR from the beginning? Are you scoping your plants every day and seeing no eggs? And on your next round, you will use only OGBIOWAR as a preventative, rather than waiting to see if there is another outbreak with new BMs entering the room? I guess you don't know if this will have any effect on the taste until you harvest, correct?
Sorry for all the questions but these are the questions that pop into my head.

 

[RetroGrow]

Man I wish they were trichomes. Trichomes form uniformly at the end of hairs during flowering. My seedlings are 10 days old, not auto flower, haven't produced any THC nor Trichomes...
TRICHOMES:
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=229640&thumb=1]View Image[/url]
The cloudy bumps (eggs) shown in my pic (day 10 seedlings, 1st leaf set) are scattered - mainly at the base of the stem and in bunches. There are none at the end of hairs - they're all stuck against the leaf.:
MY PIC:
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=229420&thumb=1]View Image[/url]


CYCLAMEN MITES: (from the scientists: http://www.entomology.umn.edu/cues/inter/inmine/Mitesc.html)

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=229553&thumb=1]View Image[/url]


I've only been at this a couple of months -- far from expert status -- so I'm not claiming 100% sure cyclamen mites, my approach is scientific ie no hypothesis is wrong, but based on what I'm seeing and the circumstances (age of plant) I think trichomes can be ruled out.

Update: nothing dead from hot water dunk. new dunk today: natria by bayer: 10% sulfur + .25% pyrethrins today, max treatment diluted 5oz/gal

You will see trichomes under magnification on any plants, not just in flower. That's why I asked. Definitely not Broad Mite eggs, but very well could be Cylamen. It's hard to tell 100% from the pix, but it seems odd that that many would show up so early. I almost always grow from seeds, and usually the "problem" doesn't manifest itself until the 14 day mark, at which point they start to wilt and show some spotting on the lower leaves, with growth slowing. A dose of aspirin would put them back to "normal" looking after 12 hours, even though the mites were still there. It's the toxins that hurt the plants, and aspirin will knock them back. I'm surprised they endured the hot water dunks. When I tried that on larger plants, they looked like ragged spinach when they came out and had to be tossed.
Here's some pictures of my seedlings that had cyclamen mites before I knew what they were. I treated only with aspirin, thinking it was a virus, and they went to harvest and yielded well. My AK47s were duds, but the Critical+ endured the mites until harvest with no ill effects after only treating with aspirin.

And right before harvest, after only aspirin treatment. At that time, everyone thought that BMS/cyclamens were tobacco mosaic virus or some other virus. That's why I named the album "name that disease", because I posted those pix in the infirmary years ago and nobody figured out what it was. I got the usual responses like "PH off", cal/mag deficiency, etc.

As you can see, they turned out pretty good with only aspirin, except the AK47s, which looked good, but had no taste or smell-duds!
It wasn't until after this same scenario played out multiple times that I got a scope and found out what I was really dealing with. But each time I noticed that symptoms would show up exactly at the two week mark, but would be gone the next day after aspirin treatment.
You can see all the pix in my album called "Name That Disease" in my gallery. If I posted those pictures now, everyone would immediately say ""Broad mites", as the symptoms have become all too familiar to us by now.
I still say you have other issues going on there, like over watering and PH, but I don't want to beat a dead horse. I don't use that medium and so am not that familiar with it, but I use coco in Hempy buckets, which is a hydro medium, and optimum PH for that is 5.8 to 6.0. I think when you get your new seeds you may want to start them in paper towels, then put them in Foxfarms or Miracle Grow seed starter mix in transparent cups, then when the cups are full of roots, transplant to coco Hempy buckets and enjoy the simplest method of growing with huge yields. But that's another story. I have had my best success with that method. Hempys with coco + K.I.S.S. method=simplicity & huge yields, and you can't over water.

 

[OrganicOzarks]

So before the OGBIOWAR, you were using Avid, Forbid, etc.? And did this clear up the BMs? Were the plants "clean" before the OGBIOWAR? The reason I ask is because I want to know if this stuff will knock down a full fledged outbreak, or if it is just for maintenance of plants that have already been treated? Do you think your plants would be the same if you didn't use the other chems first, and just started with OGBIOWAR from the beginning? Are you scoping your plants every day and seeing no eggs? And on your next round, you will use only OGBIOWAR as a preventative, rather than waiting to see if there is another outbreak with new BMs entering the room? I guess you don't know if this will have any effect on the taste until you harvest, correct?
Sorry for all the questions but these are the questions that pop into my head.

I don't use chemicals. All of my sprays, etc. were organic. For the past 6 weeks this is the only thing I have sprayed. I have stopped all of the others as most of them are anti-fungal, and OGBIOWAR is a bunch of fungus.

I have already harvested 1 room that was sprayed, and you can not tell.

I don't bother tweaking out with a microscope on my plants. If I notice anything else I will check it out, but I don't think it will be necessary.

The shit works. Plain and simple. It makes growing retard proof. I honestly wish I would have tried this product, or some other similar product sooner. It makes growing so god damn easy.

I still can't believe how well it has handled the grasshoppers outside. They are fucking out of there. I see a stray one here or there. but not the thousands like every other year.

This shit is going to be the future of organic farming, gardening, and cannabis growing. Maybe not this specific "brand", but once a large Company gets in the market it will be all over.

With increased sales, and production they will be able to drop the price down to about $20 a kilo. Now someone just has to pay hundreds of thousand of dollars to do testing, and get approval from the EPA, and USDA.

 

[Payaso]

So we get it that the OGBIOWAR foilar pack works well for broad mites... that being said I have to wonder if you (RetroGrow) have some commercial interest in this company - in all due respect you push the product like a dedicated salesperson!

So let's quit beating that dead horse you speak of

It is apparently a great product however...

 

[bubbler720]

So we get it that the OGBIOWAR foilar pack works well for broad mites... that being said I have to wonder if you (RetroGrow) have some commercial interest in this company - in all due respect you push the product like a dedicated salesperson!

So let's quit beating that dead horse you speak of

It is apparently a great product however...

Clown boy take another nitrous hit: Retro was talking about ph/watering as the dead horse. Ozarks is the dude with OGBiowar success.

Here's some pictures of my seedlings that had cyclamen mites before I knew what they were. I treated only with aspirin, thinking it was a virus, and they went to harvest and yielded well. My AK47s were duds, but the Critical+ endured the mites until harvest with no ill effects after only treating with aspirin.

Retro those are some fatty buds for having cyclamen and aspirin only treatments. Thanks for the recommend Hempys with coco + K.I.S.S. method, I'll check it out.

I didn't see any pics of cyclamen eggs in your gallery -- any you can post?

It's crazy to me seedlings with 2 leaf sets can already have cyclamen when I cleaned out the garden completely. They are looking better now with ph 6.0 and the kelp.