ziggestardust
Member
And one way to up evaporation rates to increase humidity is to increase the total soil area.
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HughMungus
New member
Interesting thread! Regarding RH, how do you go about elevating your RH without battling mold in your flowers? It seems like if I let my RH get over 55% I'm almost guaranteed to get mold spots in some of my more dense strains.
I was using a Gen1 Co2 generator. I work 9-10 hour shifts and I didn't like the idea of an open flame going in the house all day so I gassed that, but is there any other options (aside from the huge/heavy tanks of Co2) that any of you have used with success? Has anyone tried Mycelial-based CO2 production (I forget the name of the product)?
Also, it has been my observation that some of my worst yields have resulted in some of the best herb. Conversely, some of my best yields have been of lower quality herb. I have no scientific basis for making this statement, just an observation. Anyone else notice this?
I was using a Gen1 Co2 generator. I work 9-10 hour shifts and I didn't like the idea of an open flame going in the house all day so I gassed that, but is there any other options (aside from the huge/heavy tanks of Co2) that any of you have used with success? Has anyone tried Mycelial-based CO2 production (I forget the name of the product)?
Also, it has been my observation that some of my worst yields have resulted in some of the best herb. Conversely, some of my best yields have been of lower quality herb. I have no scientific basis for making this statement, just an observation. Anyone else notice this?
The problem with high humidity is when the lights go out and the temperatures drop. Dew point is quickly reached and moisture condenses on the buds causing mold. It is essential to dehumidify the environment when the lights go out. It is my understanding that the high humidity during lights on is not the cause of the mold. Other members correct me if I am wrong.
I have heard of the mycelial based product, I think they are sachets of fungi. An interesting experiment would be to grow your own mushrooms which would release co2 as they feed off decaying matter.
My keeper cut that I am running ATM always has more frost when the yield is lower due to various factors. I recall noticing this in other strains previously!
After thinking about it more it can't be so black and white, but you can say that if you do not reach dew point chances of mold are greatly reduced!
I think the biggest variable with mold(botrytis) is genetics. I find Afghanis and some other dense Indicas mold even in low humidity. Sativas on the other hand I have never seen mold, any Sativas that molds likely has Indica in it anyway . High humidity is a great way to get MASSIVE Sativas indoors. However your hybrids and Indicas couldn't handle them same treatment. Try it on Sativas and you'll start to wonder who made up the myth "Indicas yield better than Sativas".
Definitely, anybody who ran sweet tooth #3 remembers the joy of seeing the huge buds of the bigger yielding phenos, only to have them turn into grey brown slime before harvest day... That was one terrible strain for mold!
M
MrSterling
I think for many indicas it's a matter of sheer density and physics. We do have cabbage buds so dense that trichomes don't have room to form in the interior. Just a magnet for moisture to be trapped.
O
Old_Headbanger
I've had this happen where the rh doesn't get anywhere over 55% or so for any extended period of time, and still mold up. No trichs in the middle of these dense buds at all. All of a sudden you see a dead sugar leaf in the middle of these dense buds and you know there's a gooey mess waiting inside for you...
bump. any bud leaves that start to die back need to be carefully removed - especially with those dense indicas. botrytis initially attacks dead or dying tissue.
that said, good circulation and ventilation should prevent this indoors 99% of the time.
that said, good circulation and ventilation should prevent this indoors 99% of the time.
ziggestardust
Member
Is it better to remove some fan leaves to get more light to the buds rather than leaving them be, shading the buds?
imo
pruning/training for good air circulation/disease prevention
goes hand in hand with opening up the plant to more light...
its a must for experience productive mater growers as well
lets not forget that many great landrace saty farm lines were bred to very dry regions
imo,these are were psychedelic properties can be obtained by both genetics from such regions too mimicry of envirnment..
here in s.cal
real genetics dont dread the botrytis as
"It's natural for a dying leaf to be frightened of the autumn winds"_Burt Wonderstone
socalg13 x haze
pruning/training for good air circulation/disease prevention
goes hand in hand with opening up the plant to more light...
its a must for experience productive mater growers as well
lets not forget that many great landrace saty farm lines were bred to very dry regions
imo,these are were psychedelic properties can be obtained by both genetics from such regions too mimicry of envirnment..
here in s.cal
real genetics dont dread the botrytis as
"It's natural for a dying leaf to be frightened of the autumn winds"_Burt Wonderstone
socalg13 x haze
i agree with DARC that a certain amount of leaf removal is good practice. basically i will remove a leaf on my scrogs if it is covering a budsite because the buds need a certain amount of light to trigger them to develop.
having said this i dont believe in any type of heavy defoliation (my opinion, others will differ). it must be remembered that leaves/cholorphyl are the only way that a plant makes energy and that some of the energy is stored in the leaves (the plant gets NO energy from it's roots, only elements/minerals) so if you remove a leaf, you are removing some energy and removing some of the plant's potential to make energy. The energy stored in the leaves should be recycled by the plant as it starts to fade during flower.
also (indoors) you want the plant to catch all the light, any light shining through the canopy onto the floor is wasted energy - so dont remove leaves if there arent any underneath to catch the light!
"One of most basic laws of science is the Law of the Conservation of Energy. Energy cannot be created or destroyed; it can only be changed from one form to another."
VG
having said this i dont believe in any type of heavy defoliation (my opinion, others will differ). it must be remembered that leaves/cholorphyl are the only way that a plant makes energy and that some of the energy is stored in the leaves (the plant gets NO energy from it's roots, only elements/minerals) so if you remove a leaf, you are removing some energy and removing some of the plant's potential to make energy. The energy stored in the leaves should be recycled by the plant as it starts to fade during flower.
also (indoors) you want the plant to catch all the light, any light shining through the canopy onto the floor is wasted energy - so dont remove leaves if there arent any underneath to catch the light!
"One of most basic laws of science is the Law of the Conservation of Energy. Energy cannot be created or destroyed; it can only be changed from one form to another."
VG
V
Veg N Out
Use beds not pots lots of biology and a dialed room.
Incorporate Fossil Shell Flour (freshwater diatomaceous earth) in your soil medium at rates of 5-6% will increase plant available silica significantly.
For PLANT NUTRITION, Amorphous Silica is an OMRI/Organic approved source of silica that is PERMITTED to be used for plant production and soil conditioning. As most organic purists know, liquid potassium silicate like Pro-Tekt CAN NOT be used as a soil nutrient for organic growing....but is permitted for plant pest and disease control ONLY.
Fossil Shell Flour is 80-90% Amorphous Silica, available at feed stores in 50 pound bags for $30...and it is food grade (good for pets too and no sales tax).
Nice read from National Organic Standards Board Technical Advisory Panel Review on potassium silicate...http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/getfile?dDocName=STELPRDC5057629
Cheers!
For PLANT NUTRITION, Amorphous Silica is an OMRI/Organic approved source of silica that is PERMITTED to be used for plant production and soil conditioning. As most organic purists know, liquid potassium silicate like Pro-Tekt CAN NOT be used as a soil nutrient for organic growing....but is permitted for plant pest and disease control ONLY.
Fossil Shell Flour is 80-90% Amorphous Silica, available at feed stores in 50 pound bags for $30...and it is food grade (good for pets too and no sales tax).
Nice read from National Organic Standards Board Technical Advisory Panel Review on potassium silicate...http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/getfile?dDocName=STELPRDC5057629
Cheers!
KGB~Dragon
Member
Okay I read through this post, the information was like stuffing 5 gallons of soil in a 1 gallon bucket! (we know how that really goes lol) Thank you all for the great info!
I've gotten really geeked out about worm castings since beginning to grow this year. A local worm farmer who sells the castings gave me a test sheet on the castings. I was blown away by the number of nutrients and ppm they each had and a neutral Ph level.
The Leachate is also nice when diluted 4 to 1 with water. I've not gotten any burn when using worm castings, tea or leachate so far. I know there are many different worm castings out there and I think I lucked out, the stuff I get is working really good so far.
I've gotten really geeked out about worm castings since beginning to grow this year. A local worm farmer who sells the castings gave me a test sheet on the castings. I was blown away by the number of nutrients and ppm they each had and a neutral Ph level.
The Leachate is also nice when diluted 4 to 1 with water. I've not gotten any burn when using worm castings, tea or leachate so far. I know there are many different worm castings out there and I think I lucked out, the stuff I get is working really good so far.
O
onlychild
I drink it every morning, (diatomaceous earth) NO REALLY 
my plants love it, sprinkle on top of your organic soil and say goodnight to knats. Month 6 of ingesting it myself daily btw.
my plants love it, sprinkle on top of your organic soil and say goodnight to knats. Month 6 of ingesting it myself daily btw.
B
BugJar
My own experience has been that the healthier I can keep my plant from rooting to flipping the better yields I have even if I experience setbacks in flowering.
It seems obvious but I really believe it is worth mentioning.
It seems obvious but I really believe it is worth mentioning.
Exactly what bug jar said ^^^^
Good point BJ!
No stress, and never make your plants wait on you. Like making sure the roots never find the sides of the container and begin circling. Limiting the number of transplants and keeping it minimal as possible. I shoot for 1 transplant only. Clone to 3 gals of nursery dirt for 1.5 weeks then into final beds. Pamper your girls, with lots of foliar love, and a dialed environment. Avoid multiple toppings and STRESS training. I get better results not topping at all, but still using hortinova trellis.
Respectfully,
FE
Good point BJ!
No stress, and never make your plants wait on you. Like making sure the roots never find the sides of the container and begin circling. Limiting the number of transplants and keeping it minimal as possible. I shoot for 1 transplant only. Clone to 3 gals of nursery dirt for 1.5 weeks then into final beds. Pamper your girls, with lots of foliar love, and a dialed environment. Avoid multiple toppings and STRESS training. I get better results not topping at all, but still using hortinova trellis.
Respectfully,
FE
Ways to increase yields in an organic soil setup? Increase soil container size.
