Salve a tutti sono nuovo.. Ho trovato questa guida a dir poco interessante, penso sarebbe bello se qualcuno in grado di farlo la traducesse in italiano.. 
peace
Advanced techniques for making the very best dry sifted hash
Many dry sifters aiming for the very best quality possible use very potent strains expertly grown that are perfectly dried, cured, well aged and stored for months. They gently work the material through multiple sized screen meshes, sometimes using 6 or 7 different sized meshes ranging from 220 micron down to 25 micron, in a low humidity room and yet are not totally satisfied with the end result. The high is good, the hash is pliable and bubbles, but is not the stuff "legends" are made of.
Here's how you take your dry sift to the next level and produce the hardest hitting, meltiest dry sifted hash that will impress even most hardcore hash snobs.
Basically there's few main things to keep in mind.
1) it's better to not allow the contaminants in, rather than try to remove it later, so use a gentle action for a short duration.
2) Find out, isolate your ideal range of resin head sizes, then purify it.
3) For the initial quality run, use only two screen meshes within a selected and narrow size range, not 4, 5, 6 or 7 meshes.
Do two runs, one for the "quality" (or the "Pure") and a second run for "quantity" (using multiple meshes) to reap the remaining resin heads.
The following will mainly deal with this initial quality run.
Aim to remove just 5%, 10% or a maximum 20% of the starting material's resin heads during this "quality" run.
As most know of us here know, cannabis plants at maturity contain resin heads of varying sizes. What most of us don't realize is that the very best dry sifted hash is never a mix of all these sizes, instead it is selected and isolated within narrow diameter size range, then purified.
This ideal size range might be, for example, within 75 micron and 100 micron, 80 micron and 90 micron, or an even narrower range, eg 82 and 88 micron or 96 and 101 micron?...it all depends on the starting material, your type of high preference and the available mesh sizes you have to work with.
Firstly, work out what your ideal range of resin heads is by running a few handfulls of the material through several pairs of screens, for example, 110 and 95 micron, 95 and 85 micron and 85 and 75 micron, 75 and 65 etc ...then card the resin heads back and forth repeatedly to force the contaminants (and smaller sized resin heads) through the mesh, use a magnifying glass to monitor your progress and then smoke test your results to select your ideal resin head size range.
Once you have worked out the ideal (high/low) narrow range of resin heads for that strain, sift small amounts of that material at a time over the first screen with second mesh underneath using a gentle side to side or circular sifting action for just a short duration...or use vibration
This duration may vary from 20 seconds to a minute or more (or whatever works for you). Then once the material has been sifted, repeatedly card the resin heads that has collected between these two screens back and forth over the finer, bottom mesh using a credit type card, this will break up and force the contaminants and smaller sized trichomes (resin heads) through the finer mesh while the selected resin heads remain above the screen,
Monitor your progress with a 20X ~ 30X magnifying glass. This cleaning process may take 5, 10 or more minutes, make sure the ambient humidity in the room is low, You can also freeze/chill the material (again) before this cleansing/carding process.
Do not run the material initially through 220, 160 or 125 micron mesh as this will only help break up and allow much more contaminants in with resin heads (though, for the quantity run, use these larger sized mesh and work the material more aggressively to get all the plant's remaining resin heads)
Run bud or very high quality trimmed leaves that are very resiny, do not run fan leaves or other plant material that contain just a few resin heads.
The Bud or trim leaf can be broken up, but not ground into a fine powder. Ideally, any finer than joint rolling consistancy is probably too fine and will only help introduce more broken up leaf matter in with the resin heads.
The above method will produce a much purer hash than techniques previously posted anywhere to my knowledge, also the kif is alot easier to clean too ...I also suspect that this is how Sam Skunkman produces his legendary dry sift using his "secret method" (as well as by using the very best clone selected from 40 years of breeding and growing, well aged plant material and by sifting it between a very narrow select size range of meshes..probably within a 3 ~ 5 micron range. I also suspect he uses a vaccuum underneath while carding above and so runs all the fall through to waste!....and what a waste it would be!..damn, it must be nice to have such an excess of bud to work with that you could throw away 97% of the resin on it!)
And of course, resift all of the remaining material, including what was left above and below the first run pair of meshes to reap the remaining heads and then clean it up using multiple meshes, agitating, carding and or vaccuuming etc etc)
I suggest you use this very pure hash sparingly, if you are able that is! lol. Smoke it just once a day at most or you will tend to build up such a high tolerance to it that you not appreciate it as much at all..ideally, smoke it once or twice a week and it will last much longer and hit you hard everytime! and in between, smoke bud and the lesser hash you make from the quantity run.
Happy dry sifting!
(btw I recently wrote a similar description of this technique on another site under another "name"..so it's not copied, just rewritten for readers here on icmag.com)
peaceAdvanced techniques for making the very best dry sifted hash
Many dry sifters aiming for the very best quality possible use very potent strains expertly grown that are perfectly dried, cured, well aged and stored for months. They gently work the material through multiple sized screen meshes, sometimes using 6 or 7 different sized meshes ranging from 220 micron down to 25 micron, in a low humidity room and yet are not totally satisfied with the end result. The high is good, the hash is pliable and bubbles, but is not the stuff "legends" are made of.
Here's how you take your dry sift to the next level and produce the hardest hitting, meltiest dry sifted hash that will impress even most hardcore hash snobs.
Basically there's few main things to keep in mind.
1) it's better to not allow the contaminants in, rather than try to remove it later, so use a gentle action for a short duration.
2) Find out, isolate your ideal range of resin head sizes, then purify it.
3) For the initial quality run, use only two screen meshes within a selected and narrow size range, not 4, 5, 6 or 7 meshes.
Do two runs, one for the "quality" (or the "Pure") and a second run for "quantity" (using multiple meshes) to reap the remaining resin heads.
The following will mainly deal with this initial quality run.
Aim to remove just 5%, 10% or a maximum 20% of the starting material's resin heads during this "quality" run.
As most know of us here know, cannabis plants at maturity contain resin heads of varying sizes. What most of us don't realize is that the very best dry sifted hash is never a mix of all these sizes, instead it is selected and isolated within narrow diameter size range, then purified.
This ideal size range might be, for example, within 75 micron and 100 micron, 80 micron and 90 micron, or an even narrower range, eg 82 and 88 micron or 96 and 101 micron?...it all depends on the starting material, your type of high preference and the available mesh sizes you have to work with.
Firstly, work out what your ideal range of resin heads is by running a few handfulls of the material through several pairs of screens, for example, 110 and 95 micron, 95 and 85 micron and 85 and 75 micron, 75 and 65 etc ...then card the resin heads back and forth repeatedly to force the contaminants (and smaller sized resin heads) through the mesh, use a magnifying glass to monitor your progress and then smoke test your results to select your ideal resin head size range.
Once you have worked out the ideal (high/low) narrow range of resin heads for that strain, sift small amounts of that material at a time over the first screen with second mesh underneath using a gentle side to side or circular sifting action for just a short duration...or use vibration
This duration may vary from 20 seconds to a minute or more (or whatever works for you). Then once the material has been sifted, repeatedly card the resin heads that has collected between these two screens back and forth over the finer, bottom mesh using a credit type card, this will break up and force the contaminants and smaller sized trichomes (resin heads) through the finer mesh while the selected resin heads remain above the screen,
Monitor your progress with a 20X ~ 30X magnifying glass. This cleaning process may take 5, 10 or more minutes, make sure the ambient humidity in the room is low, You can also freeze/chill the material (again) before this cleansing/carding process.
Do not run the material initially through 220, 160 or 125 micron mesh as this will only help break up and allow much more contaminants in with resin heads (though, for the quantity run, use these larger sized mesh and work the material more aggressively to get all the plant's remaining resin heads)
Run bud or very high quality trimmed leaves that are very resiny, do not run fan leaves or other plant material that contain just a few resin heads.
The Bud or trim leaf can be broken up, but not ground into a fine powder. Ideally, any finer than joint rolling consistancy is probably too fine and will only help introduce more broken up leaf matter in with the resin heads.
The above method will produce a much purer hash than techniques previously posted anywhere to my knowledge, also the kif is alot easier to clean too ...I also suspect that this is how Sam Skunkman produces his legendary dry sift using his "secret method" (as well as by using the very best clone selected from 40 years of breeding and growing, well aged plant material and by sifting it between a very narrow select size range of meshes..probably within a 3 ~ 5 micron range. I also suspect he uses a vaccuum underneath while carding above and so runs all the fall through to waste!....and what a waste it would be!..damn, it must be nice to have such an excess of bud to work with that you could throw away 97% of the resin on it!)
And of course, resift all of the remaining material, including what was left above and below the first run pair of meshes to reap the remaining heads and then clean it up using multiple meshes, agitating, carding and or vaccuuming etc etc)
I suggest you use this very pure hash sparingly, if you are able that is! lol. Smoke it just once a day at most or you will tend to build up such a high tolerance to it that you not appreciate it as much at all..ideally, smoke it once or twice a week and it will last much longer and hit you hard everytime! and in between, smoke bud and the lesser hash you make from the quantity run.
Happy dry sifting!
(btw I recently wrote a similar description of this technique on another site under another "name"..so it's not copied, just rewritten for readers here on icmag.com)
