Broad Mites?

[dramamine]

You can get rid of spider mites easy. Just spray them down with plain water, as long you are not in the last month of flowering. + there are tens of natural eco bio insecticides that work for spider mites. And SMites are the easiest pest to control. They don't like humidity and water, couse they get inflated with water and then they blow up and die.
In therms of heat treatment you must be doing something wrong. I did it twice and not a leaf was damaged. I had 24 plants and 9 different strains. And not a single one was damaged, they only were looking much happier after. And the mites damage stopped. You just need to water them good before heat t.
I'm not an ass kisser, but I believe more RG than you and others, as I see that some of you don't have no idea how the plants live, and how nature works.

Thanks for the input and the insults. Not lying about what happened, and it was likely caused by fans blowing on them throught the heat and humidity, as someone mentioned above. Maybe my post will help us better understand "how plants grow and how nature works"? Its just a minor case of SM...perpetual garden. Again, thanks for the sagacity.

 

[GK1]

I think we're talking apples & oranges here. You are talking about plants growing outdoors for months in extreme heat and probably low humidity. I can see why that might be a problem, with strains being another variable. Equatorial strains, some of the highest THC producing strains in the world, do fine in the heat of the equator, which is unabated. However, I'm talking about 45 minutes to an hour or so, and then back on goes the AC. So you are talking about a lot of stress over extended time periods on unnamed strains. The heat treatment only lasts for an hour. I have not found any ill effects from it at all. In fact, the plants seem to like it, as they perk up afterwards. I have used it in flower, and have gotten feedback from others that have used it in flower. All feedback has been positive. So personally, I have no problem using it in flower. Now, obviously, you treat in veg as much as possible, and your plants are mite free entering the flower period. The problem is, as anyone who has had these knows, is that they reenter your grow space from your home environment, so there may be a smaller number of mites entering your room during flower that weren't on the plants in veg, and so, haven't been treated. This is why I don't hesitate to use heat FOR AN HOUR in flower. These plants are weeds and are quite resilient. In nature, they have to endure extremes at times, and they have evolved to endure this. Some strains may be less heat tolerant than others. I haven't studied this. I can't test every strain, but again, I haven't gotten any negative feedback via PM in regards to an hour long heat treatment. I don't like to spray anything on plants during flower. If nothing else, it effects the taste, and I prefer not to roll the dice with toxins. Also, as I posted, there is research saying that heat makes plants produce more resin as a protective barrier. You may know that exterminators are now using heat to treat various pests, including bed bugs and scabies. This is becoming more common and is the preferred treatment for bedbugs. Fortunately for us, mites are very heat sensitive, so temperatures that exterminators use against bed bugs are not necessary. Mites will die @ 115F for the most part. I used 120 just to be safe, as a bit of research tells you that various greenhouses that use heat against mites in the form of hot water dips use different temperatures on different plant species. I have seen recommendations of anywhere from 111 to 118, so I used 120 to be safe. I didn't know at the time I first tried it how the plants would react, but sat in the sauna with them to observe whether or not anything was going wrong. Happily, there were no visible problems, except for the mites. They were all dead.

Agreed, we are talking apples/oranges. I will also add that my position on heat in bloom is simply my protocol. Each of us is responsible for their own garden. I am not trying to say it is wrong or convince anyone not to do it. I simply will not use in bloom. My own choice. I do not need to be convinced of the benefits of heat against some bugs.

I think my real point is simply that it wont be needed. With a heat treatment of an empty space and all equip in 130/2hour range and plants treated with any of several natural remedies and I think bloom will be fine. I heat treated plants in veg as well. I could be wrong....Im at day 4 of some Blue Dream that will give me an indication of whether my "final protocols" will be appropriate.
I will not spray in bloom. Period. I've been fighting these jokers for a couple years and have, without the heat treatment been able to harvest top shelf meds at a very good yield without ANY treatment in bloom. I think maybe we are not clear on that point either. With proper approach bloom is no problem.

My issue has been a desire to eradicate them completely from my grow. You are correct about experiencing them re-establishing from environment that has not been treated. Which is why many growers have gone to commercial spaces, complete with decontamination room to change clothes etc and are very common in Ca these days. Many "home growers" prefer this approach even if they are NOT commercial in terms of MMJ industry. There are many advantages from security to cleanliness etc. hope it is successful for me.

You mention heat boosting resin. Ok, maybe. Heat also degrades THC. Plenty of studies on that. If heat were so beneficial many of us would be doing it daily or weekly or.....you get the idea. Doing it for one hour and not damaging plants is completely different than claiming it to be a bloom booster. If it is, I suggest you run a triple digit temp at any RH you choose and report back?

If you want to talk bloom boost we can. My education is Ag Science and was involved in an Estate Winery for 12 years. During that 12 years we went from conventional to organic to Demeter Certified Biodynamic. I have a vast experience with alternative approaches and a solid understanding of how it works. IMO, if you desire to boost bloom you should be looking at boosting/initiating SMR, Secondary Metabolic Respones/Processes. They are the things that trigger production of things such as terpines,flavonoids,resins etc. Which brings into play the old " I swear the stress made em better,dude!" axiom. To an extent that is true. Many things trigger these SMR's. From insects(bio-d peop's all nod and smile) to environment to ??? Even temp plays a role. The problem usually stems when noob's dont think it through and do something stupid like water starve or whatever. Thats not the type of "stress" I'm speaking of. One of my favorite natural bloom boosters in chitin. It is amazing for many reasons and should be investigated by anyone desiring natural bloom boosting. The others I'll leave for you to explore.

Happy growing.

 

[GK1]

So far so good. Pretreat going into bloom. Heat treated room to 130 plus veg plants to 120 and Nukem. I'll keep you posted. It has proven itself with respect Spider mites and PM tho. Many growers in my network confirm. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS RE; LIGHT

Broad mites are listed in POS brochure for Nukem.

 

[GK1]

that link looks good but I didn't see broad mite listed. keep us posted on that nuke em if u don't mind. thanx bro

I called the owner and spoke to him directly. Phytol is effective against BM's. Peace.

Above post about Nukem was for you as well. More as it develops.

 

[RetroGrow]

Agreed, we are talking apples/oranges. I will also add that my position on heat in bloom is simply my protocol. Each of us is responsible for their own garden. I am not trying to say it is wrong or convince anyone not to do it. I simply will not use in bloom. My own choice. I do not need to be convinced of the benefits of heat against some bugs.

I think my real point is simply that it wont be needed. With a heat treatment of an empty space and all equip in 130/2hour range and plants treated with any of several natural remedies and I think bloom will be fine. I heat treated plants in veg as well. I could be wrong....Im at day 4 of some Blue Dream that will give me an indication of whether my "final protocols" will be appropriate.
I will not spray in bloom. Period. I've been fighting these jokers for a couple years and have, without the heat treatment been able to harvest top shelf meds at a very good yield without ANY treatment in bloom. I think maybe we are not clear on that point either. With proper approach bloom is no problem.

My issue has been a desire to eradicate them completely from my grow. You are correct about experiencing them re-establishing from environment that has not been treated. Which is why many growers have gone to commercial spaces, complete with decontamination room to change clothes etc and are very common in Ca these days. Many "home growers" prefer this approach even if they are NOT commercial in terms of MMJ industry. There are many advantages from security to cleanliness etc. hope it is successful for me.

You mention heat boosting resin. Ok, maybe. Heat also degrades THC. Plenty of studies on that. If heat were so beneficial many of us would be doing it daily or weekly or.....you get the idea. Doing it for one hour and not damaging plants is completely different than claiming it to be a bloom booster. If it is, I suggest you run a triple digit temp at any RH you choose and report back?

If you want to talk bloom boost we can. My education is Ag Science and was involved in an Estate Winery for 12 years. During that 12 years we went from conventional to organic to Demeter Certified Biodynamic. I have a vast experience with alternative approaches and a solid understanding of how it works. IMO, if you desire to boost bloom you should be looking at boosting/initiating SMR, Secondary Metabolic Respones/Processes. They are the things that trigger production of things such as terpines,flavonoids,resins etc. Which brings into play the old " I swear the stress made em better,dude!" axiom. To an extent that is true. Many things trigger these SMR's. From insects(bio-d peop's all nod and smile) to environment to ??? Even temp plays a role. The problem usually stems when noob's dont think it through and do something stupid like water starve or whatever. Thats not the type of "stress" I'm speaking of. One of my favorite natural bloom boosters in chitin. It is amazing for many reasons and should be investigated by anyone desiring natural bloom boosting. The others I'll leave for you to explore.

Happy growing.

You make some good points. However, I am not claiming it's a bloom booster. I'm not sure where you got that from. I certainly would not use it as a bloom booster We have more than enough "bloom boosters".
Agree, that I don't want to spray anything on plants in bloom. But you say you have gone through bloom with no treatment. I understand that prevention is the best cure, so if you treat aggressively in veg, you will minimize potential problems in bloom. But what if they reenter your room from outside in bloom? What do you do then? What about all the people who do find them in bloom? In many cases, I think they just discover them late. They didn't notice them in veg, or possibly they just entered the space at the flip time.
I think this epidemic is catching many people by surprise. Five years ago, no one heard of them. Now they seem to be everywhere. Dispensaries are spreading them by clone for one thing. I think that's clear. But they are a problem in other parts of the world too, where there are no dispensaries. I know one source of them is cut flowers or decorative plants purchased in garden shops and brought into the home.
The thought has crossed my mind that possibly nefarious forces, ie., DEA, or competing growers could be spreading them intentionally to knock down people's gardens. It's not paranoid if they are really out to get you. I wouldn't put anything past the government. Remember paraquat? These certainly would make a diabolical weapon against growers.
Keep us posted on the "Nukem". Any help is appreciated in this war.
Good luck in your battle.

 

[RetroGrow]

Thanks for the input and the insults. Not lying about what happened, and it was likely caused by fans blowing on them throught the heat and humidity, as someone mentioned above. Maybe my post will help us better understand "how plants grow and how nature works"? Its just a minor case of SM...perpetual garden. Again, thanks for the sagacity.

I don't think you're lying.
Yes, I think fans must have been the problem. All fans are supposed to be shut off. Thread has gotten long, and that was mentioned initially, but you may have missed it, so it bears repeating. It also may be that some strains are less heat tolerant. I used it on hazes, which are tropical in origin and may be more heat tolerant, although no one's mentioned any problem with a particular strain. That's why I asked what strains you are growing. Also, don't keep lights at the same distance you would use when growing. Move them up higher.
Another point is: 120F is probably the upper end of the range necessary to kill them. If you do some Googling, you will find that greenhouses in the Netherlands and elsewhere use hot water dunks to kill broad mites, with temperatures ranging from 111F to 118F for 15 minutes, so I'm guessing that 115F is probably sufficient to kill them. I wanted to be sure in my case, so I pushed it to 120F with no problems. If someone is contemplating trying this, try it on a single plant first in case there is an issue with a particular strain. Use multiple thermometers placed in different areas of the room to check for consistency of temperatures, and also to verify your thermometer. I had multiple thermometers, and they were showing different readings in the same area, so some thermometers may be off a bit. By the way, I tried the hot water dunk, and plants didn't like it at all, although others have reported it worked for them. It trashed the two plants I tried it on, and had to toss them.

 

[RetroGrow]

You mention heat boosting resin. Ok, maybe. Heat also degrades THC.

Forgot to mention this before: it's also known that light and oxygen degrade THC. Yet we grow them under intense light with plenty of oxygen around. Never understood that. When curing, storing, you are supposed to keep light and oxygen away from buds as they degrade THC.

 

[medicalmj]

Forgot to mention this before: it's also known that light and oxygen degrade THC. Yet we grow them under intense light with plenty of oxygen around. Never understood that. When curing, storing, you are supposed to keep light and oxygen away from buds as they degrade THC.

Well we start the degradation clock at t=0=day of harvest. The family of Cannabinaceae includes Cannabis and Humulus (aka hops). Much research has been done on the oxidation and degradation of the important oils. Here's a cut and paste that underscores the importance of proper storage. Bitter resins are a measured % of alpha acid in hops like THC in cannabis. The essentials are aroma, just like cannabis.
Hop essential oils, like hop bitter resins, are easily lost during storage due to their susceptibility to oxidation. Workers performing storage trials at the USDA Hop Research Laboratory determined that oil losses ranged from 28% to 90% after six months at room temperature, depending on the variety (9; see also article beginning on page 26 of this issue). These losses can be slowed by storing hops in the freezer, preferably in a package that allows no air or water exchange ("barrier packaging"). The best advice is to buy the best hops you can find and take good care of them, especially if they are aroma hops.

So heat light and temp are the 3 most important variables to consider when storing marijuana.

 

[RetroGrow]

I successfully completed my heat treatment last night. I am currently on week three of flower. Temperatures under the canopy at 118F and temps at the top 122F for one hour. Plants did ok overall. 24 hours later the tops of some plants that were closer to the lights are showing burnt pistill (some strains more than others). The GS Cookies fared the worst. I will be shooting for lower temperatures next time. In the future I will also be growing my plants a bit shorter to help with this.

WARNING: I dont know if this was mentioned before, but please be careful with fan placement durring the heat treatment. I did have some leaves crisp up that were too close to circulation fans. The combination of the heat and the fan was to much. I ended up turning all my circulation fans off after about 30 minutes of 120F due to this.

Like LEDnewb, I can't find live BM with my scope, only eggs. The BM damage to my plants is very minimal. So I am hoping to have a successful harvest. I want to do another heat treatment a week from now and then every two weeks after that, but seeing how some pistils suffered I am a little hesitant. Maybe no heat treatments the last three weeks of flower. Will be using asprin here on out. Wish me luck.

No fans during heat treatment!
Did you find dead BMs, or you just saw eggs?

 

[moses wellfleet]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] use sachets in veg and flower[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] you can clearly see areas of old damage and new growth pushing through after the swirskiis have munched all the broads up[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] crops under protection from swirskii mite sachets
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] happy mothers saying thank you moses for these little life saving friends!

these sachets really work. no more spice rack remedies, no more harsh chems, no more spraying while you could be relaxing, no more trashing valuable plants, no more aspirin, no more head aches, no more heat treatment, no more hoping and praying. no more Broad Mites, no more lost harvests, no more arguing with other members over the best broad mite cure ... ignore this post at your own peril!



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[eric2028]

nice moses looks good! where do u get yours from?

 

[moses wellfleet]

nice moses looks good! where do u get yours from?

they come from koppert in holland. do a google search for your own area or contact koppert they ship most places in the world. this thread has become long and cluttered, here is the solution on a plate!

 

[Some old dude]

WHAT...???

WHAT...???

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=33443&pictureid=1061872View Image[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]View Image[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=33443&pictureid=1061873View Imagecrops under protection from swirskii mite sachets
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=33443&pictureid=1061878View Imageyou can clearly see areas of broad mite damage in the pics and healthy new growth pushing through

these sachets really work. no more spice rack remedies, no more harsh chems, no more spraying while you could be relaxing, no more trashing valuable plants, no more aspirin, no more head aches, no more heat treatment, no more hoping and praying. no more Broad Mites, no more lost harvests... ignore this post at your own peril!
W
WHAT...?


[/FONT][/FONT]

WHAT...? What is this...? Does it work...? Are you sure...? Have not seen a predator yet that actually works ...cause you could have like one or two mites per plant to bite the plant one time to screw it up for weeks. Only thing that would actually work is if the entire plant was "mite free" Completely...for weeks or months. Can't grow with broads at all even a few.Thats what sucks ash about these guys and why so many myself included actually believe in a "Conspiracy theory" to shut down "clean medical production" leaving it to the large pharma firms that can provide a sterile environment at a huge cost.

 

[moses wellfleet]

WHAT...? What is this...? Does it work...? Are you sure...? Have not seen a predator yet that actually works ...cause you could have like one or two mites per plant to bite the plant one time to screw it up for weeks. Only thing that would actually work is if the entire plant was "mite free" Completely...for weeks or months. Can't grow with broads at all even a few.Thats what sucks ash about these guys and why so many myself included actually believe in a "Conspiracy theory" to shut down "clean medical production" leaving it to the large pharma firms that can provide a sterile environment at a huge cost.

I just showed you how 'large pharma firms' are providing a safe sterile environment?

i have been using large amounts of swirskii mites since last year, with great success only down side it was expensive and a nuisance to keep ordering. but now these 6 week sachets were developed and i will say it again they work like a bomb!

 

[Some old dude]

I'm game

I'm game

I just showed you how 'large pharma firms' are providing a safe sterile environment?

i have been using large amounts of swirskii mites since last year, with great success only down side it was expensive and a nuisance to keep ordering. but now these 6 week sachets were developed and i will say it again they work like a bomb!

I will try anything once. I already sent them an email questions. Cost per height and number of plants ect,ect. If it works leaving the plant to finish of like its supposed to with decent yeild you will have my complete respect. 35 year grower here...This would be sweet if it works, already read up on the pouches and how they are supposed to work...Thanks bro.

 

[moses wellfleet]

What size is your grow, how many lights?

35 years cultivating the sacred herb respect to you

 

[moses wellfleet]

The reason that swirskiis are not commonly recommended for broad mite control is because they are very new on the biological control scene, and companies have not yet updated their information.

I used 100 sachets for a 6K room after releasing 25 000 individual predators from a bottle, to turn the tide on a severe infestation. If you are noticing new broad mite damage and their numbers are not yet out of control then I would go with the sachets alone.

For a closet grow you may need to share your order of 100 sachets with a friend to avoid overkill!

 

[Some old dude]

My mite order

My mite order

I am actually going with a double punch. I already spayed with Judo (Forbid) same thing about two months ago and it's not supposed to kill the good mites espesially after this much time has gone by.I have already stated I will not be using poison sprays anymore at all. The last time I used forbid I did not have to worry until a few months ago when I noticed new damage. So I was protected for three grow cycles or almost a year. I have done some investigating about different beneficial mites and I ordered the "Amblyseius cucumeris" and am going to order the "Amblyseius swirskii" (The one you recomend) this week so I will be using two predators and maybe more if they don't attack each other but my dude said these two at least won't. I should have no mites at this time but with broads it's almost impossible to tell until plant damage is happening.The smallest swirskii order is 100 packs like you said. The best thing to do with the extra packs (I will have a bout 50 extra for me will be to hang them outside on the yard plants. It's why people never get rid of broads is because they live all over your property inside and out . Hopefully the broads will colonize outside and serve some protection.

 

[Some old dude]

(Hopefully the broads will colonize outside and serve some protection). Obviously this sentence was a mistake. It should have read. "Hopefully the predators will colonize on the plants outside especially the swirskii (as they are more hardy) and able to survive on more types of pollen and other bugs and can withstand more extreme temps.

 

[moses wellfleet]

Cucumeris are much cheaper than swirskiis. You can try them. But be warned they are far more sensitive to high temperatures than swirskii. I didn't have good results with them. They may be of use in a veg room where temps are usually lower than in flower!