Want to add High Temp Shutoff

[NedFlanders]

Hello, I'm looking to add a high temp shutoff to a few rooms.

I'm planning on adding a 40A DPDT 120V Coil Relay between an Intermatic timer and a panel.

To activate the relay I need one of the following but not sure which is the best.

-IGS-012 High Temp Shutoff ($100)
-Titan Controls Zephyr 2 ($65)
-CAP HLC-1E ($50)
-Others?


Or I could use a 40A DPDT 24VDC coil and a household thermostat....but I like the idea of having a remote temperature sensor.

 

[growshopfrank]

my vote is for the IGS
it sounds basic but try to mount the controller so the dials wont get bumped while doing your garden duties
my other complaint with most high temp cutoffs is that there is nothing to alert that they have been tripped
if the thing is turning your lights off while you are away and you are not aware you will have some issues with any flowering plants

 

[NedFlanders]

I'm going to put these into air cooled rooms that each have a 12" exhaust. I figure that if the fan fails the high temp shutoff will save the plants and a dead fan would be noticed immediately during the next days maintenance. I always have a spare fan for emergencies.

Do you know if these provide voltage when the high temp is reached? ie: do I need a normally closed relay that will pop open when the high temp switch is activated?

 

[Treetroit City]

I just put in a Zephyr 2 today and would like to bitch about it for a second.

Now, they even talk about hooking up a timer to this thing which I figure most folks are going to do.

Went to plug my Titan timer into my Titan Zephyr and guess what? You can't because the bottom knob on the Zephyr is in the way.

Stupid stupid design!

Thank you for letting me vent.

 

[rives]

I just put in a Zephyr 2 today and would like to bitch about it for a second.

Now, they even talk about hooking up a timer to this thing which I figure most folks are going to do.

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Went to plug my Titan timer into my Titan Zephyr and guess what? You can't because the bottom knob on the Zephyr is in the way.

Stupid stupid design!

Thank you for letting me vent.

Unless you want to thermostatically control your timer, I think that it would work better if you plugged the Zephyr into the timer.

 

[Hammerhead]

return it for the Zephyr 3

 

[Treetroit City]

Unless you want to thermostatically control your timer, I think that it would work better if you plugged the Zephyr into the timer.

Interesting, that's not the way Titan recommends.

Rives, so you think it should go controller > Zephyr > timer?

Anyway I'm sure you can see why when I have an Apollo timer and it physically doesn't fit, I'd be a bit peeved.

 

[Treetroit City]

return it for the Zephyr 3

I need a high temp shut off not a temp controller.

If my mini split pops a circuit, what would a temp controller do?

It would try to tell my mini split to cool it down which it cant cause it popped it's circuit.

I need a shutoff so if the mini pops the lights go out.

 

[rives]

Interesting, that's not the way Titan recommends.

Rives, so you think it should go controller > Zephyr > timer?

Anyway I'm sure you can see why when I have an Apollo timer and it physically doesn't fit, I'd be a bit peeved.


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No, I would think think that it would go timer>Zephyr>controller so that if the Zephyr trips out, it wouldn't screw up your timer setting. The timer plugged into a constantly hot receptacle, with the Zephyr plugged into that, and then your trigger cord into the Zephyr would keep your timer settings intact and use the controller power relay for the heavy power switching.

*edit* Re-reading your description and looking at the picture, I think that we are both talking about the same arrangement. Hopefully my second sentence clarifies what I'm trying to get at.

 

[Treetroit City]

Hey rives.

I respect your opinion on things electric so I want to make sure I'm gettin you right.

You think the diagram is wrong? I don't doubt it is just want to make sure.

Guess the only issue with switching it is the Helios controller I got has two trigger cords.I have the Apollo 9 dual cord timer.

I used one of these to bump it out a bit. Is this not safe?

 

[rives]

Yes, I think that the diagram as shown is wrong. It shouldn't make any difference which piece is plugged in first other than losing your timer settings as shown (and the components fitting, apparently). I wouldn't use the little gadget that you pictured, but it is probably fine if the only power on it is the trigger circuit. I just wouldn't trust it for heavy power.

I'll do a search on your unit and see if there is a better way to do things.

 

[Treetroit City]

NedFlanders, sorry to muck up your thread with my rant.

I hope you can get with rives and get your answers. He seems to know his electric.

 

[rives]

It looks like for your controller, if you do run two timers, you would need to have it the way that they have pictured and just live with the Zephyr taking out the timers unless you wanted to buy a second Zephyr. If you only use one timer, then you could do it the way that I talked about and use a plug strip to plug both trigger cords into the Zephyr.

 

[Hammerhead]

My mistake I thought it was a upgrade from the 2 version.

 

[Treetroit City]

Yes, I think that the diagram as shown is wrong. It shouldn't make any difference which piece is plugged in first other than losing your timer settings as shown (and the components fitting, apparently). I wouldn't use the little gadget that you pictured, but it is probably fine if the only power on it is the trigger circuit. I just wouldn't trust it for heavy power.

I'll do a search on your unit and see if there is a better way to do things.

Yeah the lights are not on that circuit, just the trigger.

For now I'm going to go rives way cause I only have four lights so I can use one trigger cord. I do want to add lights which would require a second setup at some point at which time I'll rethink all this.

 

[growshopfrank]

I need a high temp shut off not a temp controller.

If my mini split pops a circuit, what would a temp controller do?

It would try to tell my mini split to cool it down which it cant cause it popped it's circuit.

I need a shutoff so if the mini pops the lights go out.

what most folks do is get a exposed coil tstat that has a higher range then configure it to heat set it to the highest temperature that they see is tolerable and wire it inline between the timer and the light control and done

 

[NedFlanders]

If I have an intermatic T104 connected to a panel I can put a 40A DPDT 120v contractor between them and put a 120v heating thermostat (for baseboard heat) on the coil.... Set the thermostat for 95 and ill be good to go?

 

[NedFlanders]

NedFlanders, sorry to muck up your thread with my rant.

I hope you can get with rives and get your answers. He seems to know his electric.

No worries, good info!

 

[rives]

If I have an intermatic T104 connected to a panel I can put a 40A DPDT 120v contractor between them and put a 120v heating thermostat (for baseboard heat) on the coil.... Set the thermostat for 95 and ill be good to go?

That would work. Line-voltage stats like for a baseboard usually don't have as tight of resolution as the type that Frank was referring to above, but should work fine for your purposes.

 

[hvac guy]

A Ranco etc111000 is ideal, the setpoint and differential temps can be used as delay, dropping 5 to 10 degrees could take 15 to 30 min, the probe can be extended with some 2 conductor 20awg wire up to a few 100'.