big plant ppk

[delta9nxs]

hey, icdog, these are the same plant at exactly 20 days flower. the middle three pics were taken with an antique manual wide angle lens so aren't very good but it was the only way i could get the whole plant in the frame.

forgot to add that this plant is 68" wide and is totally unsupported at this time.

 

[icdog]

I wasn't sure about those containers you used to put the plant in ( seemed small ) but it looks like they work reasonably well
Have you detailed how your control res works with that smaller container for the float valve. I'm not sure on that setup yet.

 

[delta9nxs]

here are some more shots of the same plant. the last shot is a clone at 16" 8 days from transplant at 9".

 

[delta9nxs]

a clone ready to go and the 2 other plants in veg

 

[delta9nxs]

I wasn't sure about those containers you used to put the plant in ( seemed small ) but it looks like they work reasonably well
Have you detailed how your control res works with that smaller container for the float valve. I'm not sure on that setup yet.

the top containers hold 6 gals of medium one inch down from the rim.

i can't do the res shots tonight. i'll try to get them up tomorrow but it is just a one gal rubbermaid food container from wally's and a float valve installed with the float centered about 11" from the bottom of the reservoir. there is a single 3/64" hole drilled in the lowest point in the sidewall.

 

[gregor_mendel]

I think when they see the term "wick" they think it's for lamers and noobs

That kept me from reading the original thread for years. I used to constantly find new ways to grow, and the ppk cured me of that. Don't know why I finally read it, but I did.

I know most people want to exactly replicate something, but the ppk is not an exact build, it is a flow diagram. Understand that flow diagram, and you can tailor it to your situation.

 

[delta9nxs]

"I know most people want to exactly replicate something, but the ppk is not an exact build, it is a flow diagram. Understand that flow diagram, and you can tailor it to your situation."

precisely! hey gregor! good to hear from you!

 

[icdog]

D9 do you think a plant that is currently in promix or dirt can be transplanted into the ppk or do you have to go straight from rooted clone?

Do you think you can put the plant in a smaller ppk pot and transplant into a bigger pot? Does pot size really matter in ppk? I ask because my preveg location has limited room so a bigger pot size won't really fit.

 

[Snook]

D9 do you think a plant that is currently in promix or dirt can be transplanted into the ppk or do you have to go straight from rooted clone?

Do you think you can put the plant in a smaller ppk pot and transplant into a bigger pot? Does pot size really matter in ppk? I ask because my preveg location has limited room so a bigger pot size won't really fit.

I've been thinkin about running 3 gallon roughneck totes ppks, http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...alogId=10053&R=202260841&catEntryId=202260841

each is only 7" tall, 14" ppked. or even 2 or 1 gallon buckets.

 

[RM - aquagrower]

I've been thinkin about running 3 gallon roughneck totes ppks, http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...alogId=10053&R=202260841&catEntryId=202260841

each is only 7" tall, 14" ppked. or even 2 or 1 gallon buckets.

I was thinking one of these http://cache.vendaria.com/integrati...7491&cf=3000&purl=sys_homedepot_uid_203297491 for a top container, sitting on top of a 2.5 gal (square) kitty litter bucket. Probably 2 tailpieces for the wicks.

 

[delta9nxs]

D9 do you think a plant that is currently in promix or dirt can be transplanted into the ppk or do you have to go straight from rooted clone?

Do you think you can put the plant in a smaller ppk pot and transplant into a bigger pot? Does pot size really matter in ppk? I ask because my preveg location has limited room so a bigger pot size won't really fit.

yes but, the larger the plant is the more damage it will probably sustain. i would get as much of the old media off as possible without severe damage and then splay, flatten the roots out in a radial pattern and back fill.

make kind of a flat bottom large diameter hole about halfway down.

you can pot up as necessary but i only have done it because of spatial considerations such as you describe and not for the "potting up in stages gets you a better root ball" myth.

look above at the "clone ready to go" shot. that container is 3 liters filled and i start clones in them with about 1.5 quarts of medium. i transplant from these to the final container up to about 12-15" but i like to transplant them at around 8-10" because there is virtually no root damage and they don't stall at all.

they are coming from and going into the same medium and nutes so there is no shock. also same temp and rh. the plant above with the yardstick grew like it was being pulled by tight bungees or something. it is my first fresh clone in the perpetual scheme.

the same reasoning that we have applied to the top containers applies to the cloners or any other container in your scheme. and that is that the plant's aerial portions respond in growth pattern or morphology to total peripheral root zone surface area.

if you use small diameter or taller containers you are pre-shaping the plant into a restricted growth pattern.

i did the math somewhere before but it basically shows that a container like you see me using now, wide, flat and shallow, with 5 gals of medium will have an approx 20% greater total peripheral surface area than a 5 gal bucket.

this is hormonal signaling. a survival strategy evolved to cope with difficult growth conditions.

the plant needs to survive to seed or be seeded, that is it's evolutionary imperative. so it adapts to various conditions so that it can live long enough to get there.

one of these possible conditions is a restricted root zone. obstacles, pests, competition from other plants and herbivory are some others.

the root zone shape and size greatly influence the aerial development of the plant. and this is from the start so at every point use the largest containers that you have space for.

below i will repeat a photo of the float control box in my veg res. it is the clearest pic i have and is identical to the one in the flower res.

if you mount the box so that the float hole is centered about 11" off the bottom of the res you will have the adjustment range you need.

i found another useful photo. if you blow up the first one you can just barely make out the holes. two 3/16" holes for stainless machine screws to mount it to the res wall and one 3/64" hole in the bottom sidewall.

 

[delta9nxs]

I've been thinkin about running 3 gallon roughneck totes ppks, http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...alogId=10053&R=202260841&catEntryId=202260841

each is only 7" tall, 14" ppked. or even 2 or 1 gallon buckets.

this is probably one of the best solutions for height restrictions. although the containers are 7" each the lids are indented about an inch and if you use 6" of media that puts the top of the medium at only 12".

 

[delta9nxs]

I was thinking one of these http://cache.vendaria.com/integrati...7491&cf=3000&purl=sys_homedepot_uid_203297491 for a top container, sitting on top of a 2.5 gal (square) kitty litter bucket. Probably 2 tailpieces for the wicks.

looks good but block that light.

 

[Snook]

I was thinking one of these http://cache.vendaria.com/integrati...7491&cf=3000&purl=sys_homedepot_uid_203297491 for a top container, sitting on top of a 2.5 gal (square) kitty litter bucket. Probably 2 tailpieces for the wicks.

Thats kinda like sterilite, if you use those, you should cover them with aluminum duct tape or the like to light proof them. I think that someone had a problem later in bloom with them cracking and having to tape them together. Is you problem height or overall 'no room'? 2'x2'x2'?? smaller? what are your limitations?

1 & 2 gallon black buckets http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23989&catid=752&clickid=searchresults

HAHA! ya might have to change your handle 'aquagrower' ...

 

[RM - aquagrower]

Thats kinda like sterilite, if you use those, you should cover them with aluminum duct tape or the like to light proof them.

Wise man said to cover everything that ain't green in reflective material to bounce the light....

Is you problem height or overall 'no room'? 2'x2'x2'?? smaller? what are your limitations?

Currently running a pair of 6x6x7 flip rooms w/ 3-600's in the middle of stacked donuts, set up to run perpetual, harvesting 1/2 a room every 2-3 weeks. Got the girls in soil while I get all environmental elements dialed in.

Still getting to know my genetics in order to figure the best plant numbers/placement.

I like to scale up/down to test my understanding of various systems, in order to make better informed decisions.

Strongly concidering building a "duel" bio-bucket/PPK system that would allow me to run the bio-buckets in cooler weather and PPK in warmer waether, or maybe even bio-buckets on the lower level and PPK on the upper.

I like having options.

HAHA! ya might have to change your handle 'aquagrower' ...

But, I've had this name a long time.

 

[tino1013]

Questions for D9 about medium

Questions for D9 about medium

I'm having a had time finding Turface or MVP or whatnot, but I did find a product called "gold label hydrocorn" that is made in germany? Do you think it would work as a substituion for the Turface?

I know you've been asked this many times and I do apologize. All other items I have found to make me a PPK or 10, except for turface and rice hulls. Can you use coco in place of the rice hulls?

Thanks is advance for these answers, and also many thanks for your awe-inspiring threads.

 

[FlowerFarmer]

I'm trying them with straight coco because I couldnt locate turface.


The hydrocorn doesn't have a enough capillary abilities I believe....doesnt wick/doesnt hold enough moisture to give you the benefits of the PPK.

 

[Snook]

Wise man said to cover everything that ain't green in reflective material to bounce the light....



Currently running a pair of 6x6x7 flip rooms w/ 3-600's in the middle of stacked donuts, set up to run perpetual, harvesting 1/2 a room every 2-3 weeks. Got the girls in soil while I get all environmental elements dialed in.

Still getting to know my genetics in order to figure the best plant numbers/placement.

I like to scale up/down to test my understanding of various systems, in order to make better informed decisions.

Strongly concidering building a "duel" bio-bucket/PPK system that would allow me to run the bio-buckets in cooler weather and PPK in warmer waether, or maybe even bio-buckets on the lower level and PPK on the upper.

I like having options.


But, I've had this name a long time.

So then 'small' isn't your problem. HA! they lost me at 'flip flop' way back. good luck.

 

[bobblehead]

So then 'small' isn't your problem. HA! they lost me at 'flip flop' way back. good luck.

You mean I can run 2 lamps off 1 ballast....!?

 

[delta9nxs]

I'm having a had time finding Turface or MVP or whatnot, but I did find a product called "gold label hydrocorn" that is made in germany? Do you think it would work as a substituion for the Turface?

I know you've been asked this many times and I do apologize. All other items I have found to make me a PPK or 10, except for turface and rice hulls. Can you use coco in place of the rice hulls?

Thanks is advance for these answers, and also many thanks for your awe-inspiring threads.

hi, tino! i just looked at it and while the material is calcined clay like turface they screwed it up by forming it like hydroton, which sucks.

hydroton floats initially and takes days for some of it to sink if you throw it into a jug of water. it has low internal porosity compared to turface. also, the particle size is too large 8-16 mm. you want something between 2-8mm max 10mm but evenly graded.

it is usable in an emergency by adding something with an higher capillary capability.