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refractometer to measure brix

C

c-ray

from http://biofarmassist.com/?p=494

How Much Moisture and Heat Does a Compost Heap Need?


In a high rainfall season it is not necessary to water the compost heap as regularly as in a dry season. Moisture content should be about 50%. Experimenting with compost you soon develop a gut feeling to determine if it is to wet or to dry. If you squeeze the material and water drips out, it too wet. If you make a ball in your hand toss it up in the air and the material flies in all directions it’s too dry. You can also determine moisture content by weighing a small amount, drying it in a microwave oven and weighing it again. The windrow method requires more water and can use up 300 to 500 liters per m2 for the first 3 weeks.

If you have the right mixture, the microbes will start multiplying and digest the material. The reproductive heat of the microbes causes the temperature of your compost to rise and could rise up to 70 degrees Celsius. There is nothing more satisfying than seeing steam rise from your compost heap on a cold winters day or digging a hole in the heap and feeling that it’s warm. If you heap does not heat up, bring in some explosive material that are really high in Nitrogen like chicken manure.
 
C

c-ray

from my notes:
the Luebke method calls for between 5-10% clay
5% clay will compost faster but 10% will make a more complex humic clay structure
clay that is lower in crystalline silica and higher in amorphous silica is more desirable, as crystalline silica reduces the holding power of the clay
 
C

c-ray

I've read a few anecdotes now about how heirlooms (ie corn) are much more likely to produce more non-sugars (minerals, vitamins, etc..) in their sap than hybrids.. ie a higher brixing hybrid corn is not as nutritious as an heirloom brixing a few degrees lower (measuring the brix in the harvested fruit not in the plant sap).. so we might be able to infer from this that heirloom cannabis, especially when adapted to ones locale and grown under the sun, will be more vital than typical hybrid and more resistant to pest and disease at a lower brix comparatively.. would be interesting to explore this idea further.. another thing that is good to know is that every bug has a different brix level that will control them, and it takes higher brix to beat off bugs than it does to control pm.. for instance pm might not be able to grow in the 10-12+ degree brix range while for spider mites it might be more like 16+ degrees brix, but they may still be able to feed off the lower brixing leaves found at the bottom of the plant especially when plant sap brix has not been equalized in the plant from top to bottom, a sign that the plant is missing out on something in the nutrient chain.. I have no mites but I did notice some thrip damage on the very lowest leaves of a few plants in one of the veg rooms on a few plants, and upon further investigation I had a hard time finding live thrips, lots of dead thrips though and I do not spray any pesticides at all like neem, end-all etc just a light misting of my usual veg foliar every 2 weeks..
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
C-Ray, taking the advice from a cactus growing guru--I go to Walmart for an affordable and constant source of clean clay; in the automotive department on a lower shelf you will find 40 pound bags of Oil-Dri for around $4 and change. The clay type is a combination of: Silica Hydrated (Amorphous Opaline Silica), Fullers Earth and Bentonite...with less than 10% quartz.

Cheers!
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
C-Ray, taking the advice from a cactus growing guru--I go to Walmart for an affordable and constant source of clean clay; in the automotive department on a lower shelf you will find 40 pound bags of Oil-Dri for around $4 and change. The clay type is a combination of: Silica Hydrated (Amorphous Opaline Silica), Fullers Earth and Bentonite...with less than 10% quartz.

Cheers!

I believe that Fullers Earth is bentonite. It is likely the stuff you are speaking of contains high levels of diatomaceous earth which some say is harmful to worms and beneficial arthropods.
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
I believe that Fullers Earth is bentonite. It is likely the stuff you are speaking of contains high levels of diatomaceous earth which some say is harmful to worms and beneficial arthropods.

Good point...but I think the benefits of including in my custom soil mix about 6-7% clay (Oil-Dri) and 5% Fossil Shell Flour (for its silica and mineral benefits) probably outweighs any negative impact caused.

My understanding is once these diatom mediums become moist, the cuticle cutting abilities of the moist diatoms is drastically reduced (rendering it ineffective as an insecticide). I think sprinkling DE on the soil surface results in a greater negative impact--than mixing it into the soil (which is my practice).

Studies have shown adding Clay & Fossil Shell Flour to potting soils can increase the soil's moisture retention properties and increase the soil's CEC abilities. I guess we have to take the good with the bad.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Good point...but I think the benefits of including in my custom soil mix about 6-7% clay (Oil-Dri) and 5% Fossil Shell Flour (for its silica and mineral benefits) probably outweighs any negative impact caused.

My understanding is once these diatom mediums become moist, the cuticle cutting abilities of the moist diatoms is drastically reduced (rendering it ineffective as an insecticide). I think sprinkling DE on the soil surface results in a greater negative impact--than mixing it into the soil (which is my practice).

Studies have shown adding Clay & Fossil Shell Flour to potting soils can increase the soil's moisture retention properties and increase the soil's CEC abilities. I guess we have to take the good with the bad.

Yes I'm quite torn by the various studies. I was going to use the Red Lake bentonite/diatomaceous material in my upcoming soil mix but even the producer warned that it can be detrimental, even wet to my friendly organisms. That particular mix has 67% DE so I decided against it.

I'm doing lab testing on some volcanic rock powder which we found and depending on results will use it instead.
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
67%...sounds like bonsai soil medium. Look at Perma-Guard Fossil Shell Flour (food grade DE); considered a food item and exempt from Cali's 8% sales tax. Feed stores usually have a 50 pound bag for $35 or so.

Oil-Dri is rather granular and coarser than kitty litter clay--and with the cost being what it is--I thought it might be something C-Ray might consider since when moist, it does not clump up into balls like other clay products do. Who would think, that a Walmart oil absorbent would have horticultural value; glad that old time grower gave me the heads up on this one!
 
C

c-ray

mucho thanks for the tip I will look into that..

interesting what MM says about the worms and DE, here is what some guy who calls himself 'The Worm Expert' has to say.. I have no idea what the deal is as I have not used DE in a worm bin before, but it would be nice to know if DE is indeed safe for the worms in an indoor worm bin and at what concentration.. personally I am not really interested in culturing a bunch of miscellaneous bugs just the worms and their glorious fecal discharge, so DE might be ok in my particular case (can't speak for others)..

from http://thewormexpert.com/viewtopic....th&sid=b52f801c7cbc79950a743db9bd4a8861#p3369

One trick is to use Diatomaceous Earth just be sure it is food grade and not pool grade which can be harmful to you and your pets as well as your worms. The material is detrimental to many parasitic worms as well as critters with exoskeletons however will not kill your composting or earthworms as long as not applied directly on the worms themselves.

In fact they composting and earthworms can and will eat the material which is actually good for them as well as for the worm castings since it also contains some trace amounts of minerals!
and

from http://thewormexpert.com/viewtopic....th&sid=b52f801c7cbc79950a743db9bd4a8861#p3157

The food grade Diatomaceous Earth whereby it will kill parasitic worms along with other pests, however as long as not applied directly on the worms, it will not kill them. In fact the worms will actually consume it when dusted on the top of the bedding with no ill effects while also adding small trace amounts of numerous minerals!
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
Food grade DE is also used as a carrier when bacteria cultures are sent via US Mail.

For 100% sodium bentonite clumping clay that is kinda expensive but widely available...check out Dr Elsey's Precious Cat Classic Cat Litter. Petsmart has 40 pound bags for around $20. I tried them for a few cycles and quite satisfied with the grow results...but the price killed me--Walmart $4 vs Petsmart $20 for 40 pounds of clay...hmmm.
 
C

c-ray

right on that's awesome, please let us know how it turns out, great find!
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
Hmmm....when DE is added to the soil, brix increased and was maintained through the growing season. Of course the amount must be significant--like 100-500 kg/ha....I mix Fossil Shell Flour (food grade DE) into my custom potting soil at the rate of 5% by volume.

Sorry for not mentioning this much earlier, since DE has been part of my soil recipe for a while now, the DE & brix connection slipped my aged mind...lol! Oh well, getting old is bitch!
 
Y

YosemiteSam

MM...do the studies show what form of silica, amorphous or crystalline, is most damaging to worms?

Horsetail teas can provide a good amount of soluble silica...right?
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
Hmmm....when DE is added to the soil, brix increased and was maintained through the growing season. Of course the amount must be significant--like 100-500 kg/ha....I mix Fossil Shell Flour (food grade DE) into my custom potting soil at the rate of 5% by volume.

Sorry for not mentioning this much earlier, since DE has been part of my soil recipe for a while now, the DE & brix connection slipped my aged mind...lol! Oh well, getting old is bitch!


Just as I was about to throw away 75lbs of food grade DE ive had for 3+ years and havent found a good use for....where did that info originate? Link?

Thanks
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
Just as I was about to throw away 75lbs of food grade DE ive had for 3+ years and havent found a good use for....where did that info originate? Link?

Thanks

Sure...cut & paste from my earlier post...

Agripower (Australian company) published a booklet titled, "A Review of Silicon and its Benefits for Plants" (no longer on their website...but is available here--http://www.scribd.com/doc/60266650/A-Review-of-Silicon-and-Its-Benefits-for-Plants

However their Beijing Conference papers is available (similar information but not as detailed as the above booklet) http://agripower.com.au/doc/2_Beijing_conference_Paper_English.pdf and concluded--

"AgriPower Silica (mostly diatomaceous earth) was included in a strawberry demonstration trial in Queensland, Australia at 250, 500 and 1000kg/ha. The AgriPower Silica was applied in addition to the normal fertiliser application (control) and was found to yield significant improvements in growth and yield compared to the control, with the following observations:
- Significantly increased root development/root mass by 100-200%
- Increase in flowers, foliage, crown size and fruit
- Brix was increased and maintained later in the season
- Increase in survival rates of runners
- Significantly increased soil moisture while not being water logged.
- Ability to increase uptake of key nutrients (N, P, K) during wet period when nutrients are typically leached away from the root zone
- Increased yields by an average of 35%
Recommended application rates would be from 200 - 500kg / ha pre plant depending on the soil condition."

Check out the graph (figure 3) on page 4, it charts increase in nutrient retention for soils amended with 5% Agripower Silica...including potting soil.

Check out the graph (figure 11) on page 14 of the Beijing paper, it charts extractable Si as a function of application rate--the sweet spot is 500kg.

Cheers!
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
MM...do the studies show what form of silica, amorphous or crystalline, is most damaging to worms?

Horsetail teas can provide a good amount of soluble silica...right?

It is strictly the diatomaceous earth which is 'reputed' to be harmful to earthworms in high ratios.

The one product I was looking at comes from southern interior British Columbia and can have 67% DE. This substance is (I believe) repackaged under numerous labels as kitty litter, oil absorbent, etc. etc. across North America. http://www.absorbentproductsltd.com/private-label.html

http://wolfcreekranch1.tripod.com/red_lake_de.html

http://www.redlakeearth.com/faq.html

See! All comes from the same place.

Probably the Walmart stuff and stuff at NAPA as well.
 

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