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Mont Rolls with the Punches

UnknownProphet

???do?Pu?ou?uU
Veteran
Good attitude, keep on trucking. And continually learn.

The bugs and mold very likely weren't your fault, but in the future a prophylactic treatment of pesticides and fungicides along with a short quarantine will prevent such headaches in the future.

Oh and to the person saying clones grow out of PM that's just plain wrong. PM in spore form can't be seen but it's EVERYWHERE, even on the keys you're typing on, only fruiting mold can be seen. But once you see fruiting mold, your plants immune system is being attacked systemically by both the spores and mold. Anyways try everything you'd like, it's great to learn but a bitch to waste money..although the only thing that has worked for me for elongated periods of time has been eagle20 and even then I've still had stubborn PM come back. A lot of it has to do with environment too. But be careful if you chose to use it, it's like chemical death.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
Well somehow the digital timer to run my flood and drain cycles was put on a setting where the morning drain only runs monday - saturday. Why the fuck would my timer even have that setting the font that says sunday is literally a single pixel on that timers display.

.

LOL thats happened to me before...easy mistake to make one single wrong button on the timer and boom your entire light or feed cycle gets messed up...

honestly you are getting the book thrown at you with all these problems, but its live and learn in this business....it will teach you to adapt and the important of preventive measures..

and yes when you first start growing the timelines definately take a while to master, it all sounds so good on paper. crop every 2 months and get this much herb, but honestly 2 months turns to 4 easy and it takes years and years to properly dial.

anyways...since you are still in veg i echo prophets advice and just chuck the whole round. its easier to start over in veg than in week 2-3 of flower...if they are already showing PM its garunteed to show up again in flower unless you use Eagle20. and then you got the whole root aphid issues to deal with, its pretty much a double dose punch that will garuntee some subpar moldy buds.

hydroton was my first medium i ever used and luckily i grew some good herb but it was with a drip system. one issue i see with your setup is that the roots have not fully developed down to the bottom of the hydroton, when i do flood i usually handwater for the first few weeks until they get a mass of roots at the bottom of the pot....your basically flooding a medium that doesnt even have the main section of rootmass yet, it will take a week or two for it to take over the entire pot, then you can switch to flood.
good luck.
 

montroller

Member
I switched them to the 1000w MH yesterday. Starting with the light about 3-4 feet from the tops to make sure they adapted well. Today they looked good so I lowered the light to about 24 inches from the tops. Then something weird happened, my humidity shot to 85%. So I took out the humidifier which was needed before the light switch and turned up the fan and space heater a little bit to balance it out between 50-60, which is where it has stayed since. I also added the panda film on the outside of the tray to keep the roots dark, now I just hope they don't grow into my drain fitting.

MRzSN.jpg

respect

YvF1K.jpg

Ab Blue


When I had the T5's in there the Respect OG's weren't really growing up but they were shooting out a lot of leaves in tight areas. Since the light switch the new growth is not doing that at all and it is making my plant structure look a little uneven.

3qNLP.jpg

You can see the tight bunches of leaves at the bottom and towards the top it seems to be stretching a little more.

Is this because the light is too far? Putting my hand under the light I can get it about 3 inches away from the glass before I feel a temperature rise so I am sure I can get it closer without heat issues but I read that 24 inches is ideal for 1000w lights.

No signs of PM and no more bugs. Fingers crossed on that.
 

montroller

Member
Sweet I just realized my digital timer is broken for the flood cycles. Word of advice don't ever buy gro1 timers, they suck. Anybody got a good brand for digital timers, preferably something that won't die in 2 weeks.

Nevermind I grabbed one from lowes for half the price of the hydro store. The guy gave me the craziest look when I asked if it could go down to minutes haha.
 

hempyftw

Member
Sweet I just realized my digital timer is broken for the flood cycles. Word of advice don't ever buy gro1 timers, they suck. Anybody got a good brand for digital timers, preferably something that won't die in 2 weeks.

Nevermind I grabbed one from lowes for half the price of the hydro store. The guy gave me the craziest look when I asked if it could go down to minutes haha.

Bummer on the timer.

Haha, I've seen that look before! Kind of like when I bought a shit load of rubermaids and was like, I don't need the lids. Like 3 employee's and one random lady reminded me I should grab some lids for them. Thanks people, but I don't needem lol.

It sucks to run across problems in the grow, but it only makes you better going on. Almost nice to get them out of the way early, so you know how to respond in the future.

If I was you I would start training them one way or another. You can use a net and scrog them. Or just bend the tops a little each day and lst them. Top them or fim them. All of these options aim to maximize bud growth tips in the light. As they stretch up and grow big fan leafs, it will block lower sites that won't get any light. Sites with no light will waste nutes and energy building fluff.

Wish ya the best, keep up the good work!
 

montroller

Member
Thanks for the input hempy. I am planning on flipping them tonight to 12/12 so I might be a little late on the topping or F.I.M. but I am pretty sure I am going to go with a screen.

Maybe you guys can help me on the measurements. The plants can grow 31 inches tall before they are under 24 inches away from the light at its highest. So should I make the screen like 2 feet above the trays and let the tops go up that extra 7 inches? Too much, too little? I guess I have some research to do.

Since a couple people recommended the lucas formula in this thread and a lot of other growers hold it in high regards I am going to flower the plants with that formula. I think this will be perfect because it is a low N formula and that should deter my plants from stretching along with the MH for the first 2 weeks. I can already tell the OG is gunna get tall so everything will help.
 

hempyftw

Member
Thanks for the input hempy. I am planning on flipping them tonight to 12/12 so I might be a little late on the topping or F.I.M. but I am pretty sure I am going to go with a screen.

Maybe you guys can help me on the measurements. The plants can grow 31 inches tall before they are under 24 inches away from the light at its highest. So should I make the screen like 2 feet above the trays and let the tops go up that extra 7 inches? Too much, too little? I guess I have some research to do.

Since a couple people recommended the lucas formula in this thread and a lot of other growers hold it in high regards I am going to flower the plants with that formula. I think this will be perfect because it is a low N formula and that should deter my plants from stretching along with the MH for the first 2 weeks. I can already tell the OG is gunna get tall so everything will help.

Ya it's too late for topping or fimming if you want to flower so quickly.

Those measurements seem about right to me. If you make it out of PVC like I did, you can always just cut the legs and change the height lol. You should get good light penetration at that level though, just don't let any of them get way taller than the others, an shade them out.

I had good results with lucas myself. I would get some minor cal/mag deficiencies come late flower though. I usually keep N in the mix for the first 2-3 weeks now, but the lucas formula does have some N in it.

Best of luck!
 

montroller

Member
Day 1 of Flower:
Absolute Blueberry
5RmVv.jpg

EKET1.jpg



Respect OG
45CSB.jpg

CmMxq.jpg



I flipped them last night and they really grew overnight. The absolutes got so bushy that I had to push a whole row back towards the tent to open the canopy a little more.

I switched both res's to the lucas formula 8/16 here are the stats:
PPM @ .5 conversion - 1035
PH - 5.8
Temp - 65f

Both are reading at exactly the same levels.

I didn't add the root excelurator because some people said not to use additives the first go with the lucas formula because it is easier to cause problems with overfeeding/underfeeding so I am going to hold off on that until I can do more research on if it is beneficial for me or not.

I built the screens yesterday and am just waiting to figure out how I want to put them in there.

EA0v6.jpg



I used red/white wire that I separated for the screen because it is cheap and strong and I don't want string in my nuggies.
 

Arthritis_sucks

The Dude
Veteran
Your gonna want to train that respect og now. Absolute blue is a very short flowering strain with low stretch compared to the respect og.
 

montroller

Member
What do you think is the best way to start training them?

I was going to add the screen in soon and just push it under the screen if it starts to get too high until week 2-3 of flower or whenever the stretch stops.
 

Arthritis_sucks

The Dude
Veteran
Im not really a scrogger, as i use screens with certian strains just to hold up floppys. Maybe a more skilled scrogger can chime in.
 

montroller

Member
Leaf curl on the Respect. I am thinking either humidity is too low or the res is too strong.

2AAPZ.jpg


ADNrh.jpg




The light is about 22-24 inches away from the top. Ambient temp is 75f and the leaves read at 68f with an IR gun. relative humidity has been floating from 49-43%.
 
B

BasementGrower

thrips dont stress plants too bad unless the infestation is huge. honestly. i had thrips a while back.. and monterey wrked great.. then i used a leaf cleaner.. .. and i havent had pm since.. and im still runin the strains that had it while cloned.
 

Arthritis_sucks

The Dude
Veteran
Og's like their magnesium an what i was suggested was a 1/2 teaspoon of epsom salt per gallon. I had the same on my Louie an my StrawD. Some call it cupping an it can result from enviormental influences or Mag. needin to be increased. The Absolute blues will do fine with it too.

What all are you addin into the res?
 

montroller

Member
Right now I am doing 8ml of micro and 16ml of bloom per gallon and 3 ml per gallon of h2o2. I diluted the OG res to 940 ppm @ .5 conversion because I thought it might be shocked going from 890 in veg to 1035 in flower so we will see if they bounce back. If not I have the ca/mg on hand to add in there.

I saw a tiny sign of PM today and ripped the leaf. I will continue the milk and h202 treatment for this grow but plan to grab some eagle 20 for next time as soon as I can figure out where to get it.

Hey arthritis does that zero tolerance kill the PM or just keep it at bay?

And @ basement grower - Thanks for checking out my grow what leaf cleaner did you use just any general one or was there a specific ingredient?
 

UnknownProphet

???do?Pu?ou?uU
Veteran
NOTHING kills PM, it's a virus that is unseen by the human eye, only the fruiting mold can be seen. So to answer your question, no zero tolerance doesn't 'kill' PM, in fact eagle20 doesn't either, but it's a systemic that will stay for upwards of 35 days so it doesn't need to be applied all the time...but mind you EAGLE20 IS NOT A SAFE chemical and bringing up eagle20 to many people is like blasphemy. Whatever you choose to do, just remember what works and what doesn't and use that in your future grows.

You seem to have to diligence and patience, with that, knowledge is bound to follow.

Oh and weave the OGs into the treslis as the shoots pop up. It will even out your canopy and allow for more even light distribution to the others that would be drowned out of light otherwise.
 

UnknownProphet

???do?Pu?ou?uU
Veteran
oh and higher temps (75-82) coupled with higher humidity (60-80%) will allow for optimal growth during veg and the first couple weeks of flower. I don't even turn on fans until week 3.
 
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