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what are your night or lights off temps?

siftedunity

cant re Member
Veteran
hey crew was just thinking.. what are your average night temps, what temps do you consider optimum?

and.. for those who like autumn colours and fading what temps do you use to bring out the colours in your bud, without stunting growth?..
 

Holdin'

Moon-grass farmer
Veteran
I maintain 68° during lights out... you hear so many different opinions on lights out temps. Some say keep day/night temps as close as possible. Some say a 10° difference. I give them a good (~5-8°) difference for a more "natural" environment. Makes sense to me to promote their time to "rest". :Some also say drop the temp a few degrees further at night during your week or so of flush to help the density. I really think as long as youre within the rule of thumb margin of optimal temps, youre good to go.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
I maintain 68° during lights out... you hear so many different opinions on lights out temps. Some say keep day/night temps as close as possible. Some say a 10° difference. I give them a good (~5-8°) difference for a more "natural" environment.

Same here... 68F at night.

Really don't like going over 75F during the day and usually have it pegged around 72-73F.

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:
 
H

heardy64

65-68 day 72-75 night last 4 years or so lost heater one year for awhile over winter near end of harvy temt down overnight 15% or more buds turned nice purple and tightened up nicely i might add
 

BlueHaze

Active member
The easiest and most under-used way to control internodal stretch is temperature control. Plant internodal length is directly related to the difference between day and night temperatures – the warmer your day cycle is as compared to your night cycle, the greater your internode length will be. The opposite also holds true; the closer your day and night temperatures, the shorter your internodes will be. Ever notice how as the warmer summer months approach, your plants begin to stretch? Part of this problem may lie in an overall hotter grow-room, but a larger factor is the increased difference between day and night temperatures.

Lets look at putting this to play in your grow room. Maximum temperatures should ideally never rise above 26°C, so you must do everything you can to prevent your room getting too hot (run lights at night, use exhaust fans, air conditioners, etc). An ideal temperature range is 24-25°C when the lights are on, and 22°C when the lights are off.

The temperature technique is most effective under a 12/12 light regime, which is ideal as this is when cannabis stretches the most. When the light cycle is brought to 12/12 we will raise the night temperature to the daytime level of 24-25°C. Space heaters on timers work well for this, and max/min type thermometers are ideal for
tracking temperatures.

It is during the first 2-3 weeks of the flower cycle that most strains begin to lengthen internodes, making it a very important time to control temperature, as this is when the framework for future colas is built. After this 2-3 week window we need to drop the night temperature back down to 22°C, as this is where the plant is happiest.


As floral development begins we need to keep in mind that the total size of your buds is determined largely by average daily temperature, provided it does not exceed optimal. So if you are letting your day temperatures drop below 24°C or your night drop below 22°C, you are costing yourself in overall weight and harvest.

Once your buds have reached optimal size and and you have begun the flushing period, you may consider dropping temperature down to 17-19°C for the final week or two. This drop in temperature triggers anthocyanin production, which intensifies the colour of the floral clusters and makes for a showier bud, especially with "purple" varieties. This final temperature change is not always feasible and can be omitted.

For extreme height control you may even use warmer night temperature than day, but be very careful when running settings like this, as even a zero difference between night and day temperatures will lead to leaf chlorosis (yellowing) after 2-3 weeks.

This what i follow
 

siftedunity

cant re Member
Veteran
tbh ive never had a problem with plants over stretching even when its too hot. ive found its mainly strain dependent but if you have good results with it by all means use it. like so many things theres more than one way to skin a cat.
 
A

Alone

I use a Sentinel enviro computer.
73-75 day/68-72 night.
50%-53%rh day/46%-48%rh night

For optimal fall coloring of your plants....flush for 2 weeks with straight water. un-ph balaned. This will lock out alot of nutrient uptake (they will take it from the leaves) as well as flush out any salts and additional nutrients left in the soil. They will still get what they need to finish well from the nutrients stored in the leaves. Smooooooth smoke every time.
 
A

Alone

This Sweetn'Sour Blueberry's leaves turned almost purple/black during flush.
 

NorCalZero

Member
84 with 44-52% humidity lights on...75 or less lights off in summer, 5 degrees cooler in non-summer months. I try to use that 10 degree rule as a general rule of thumb, but mainly because I read it from B.O.G. himself and I grow sour boggle, so when in Rome.......
 
A

Alone

Cold mostly effects the color of the pistils moreso than the calyx.
If you want purple buds...get purple genetics.
Heres a BCBD Purps with purple calyx's, white hairs that turn orange, and lime green leaves. During flush the leaves turn very yellow. Very pretty cured.
 

siftedunity

cant re Member
Veteran
nice pics alone. i like your colouring/flushing method. i normall ph for the flush but i might try your way next time.
 

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