What's new

Hygrozyme VS H202

ender87i

Member
krunchbubble - THIS is EXACTLY what im talking about!! Youre insisting that im going to get root rot by using this product in hydro. What makes you draw that conclusion so easily? Assuming you read my very last post, youre saying that if i use hygrozyme in a recirculating hydro system, at any rate, and weather i have beneficials or not, that i will end up with root rot.

Does anybody agree with this? im simply trying to get a straight answer here, because it seems like a pretty outrageous statement to make.
 

avant gardener

Member
Veteran
Firstly, im not trying to argue, simply trying to understand.

As soon as i posted this thread, i immediately started hearing nothing but BAD things.

Until now, ive heard nothing but praise and good things about Hygrozyme and how great the product is.
That is why im confused.

Now im hearing that it CAUSES root rot, and is nothing but BAD NEWS and a waste of money.

So i guess im just conflicted with what i previously thought about Hygrozyme.

So.. What IS it good for? Anything? and under what circumstances and conditions?

could this be because you were talking to people at the grow shop and now you are talking with folks who have experience using the shit? i'll be happy to sell you anything for $50 a quart and tell you it will cure cancer and make you grow three inches. think about it man.

krunchbubble - THIS is EXACTLY what im talking about!! Youre insisting that im going to get root rot by using this product in hydro. What makes you draw that conclusion so easily? Assuming you read my very last post, youre saying that if i use hygrozyme in a recirculating hydro system, at any rate, and weather i have beneficials or not, that i will end up with root rot.

Does anybody agree with this? im simply trying to get a straight answer here, because it seems like a pretty outrageous statement to make.

why would he draw that conclusion? probably the same reason that any reasonable person draws a conclusion. maybe dude has a metric shit ton of grows under his belt and has seen it happen before. i've only got a few dozen at best, and i know i sure have.

in my experience, HZ doesn't CAUSE root rot, but if there's a single pythium spore in your water—and if you're not actively sterilizing your rez, all the time, it's definitely in there—it creates conditions that are favorable for the rot to take off.

different guys have different techniques. after struggling with rot for what felt like an eternity, i've found that running sterile all the time and never adding any organic based additives (like HZ) to my system is the way to keep things dialed. i do that with a cocktail i switch up from time to time. principal ingredients include h2o2, chlorine, sm-90, and most of all, a UV pond sterilizer. then there are guys who swear by bennies. i didn't have any luck with that method myself. in any case, i've never talked to a single person who ran recirc that thought hygrozyme was a necessary (or even desirable) additive. don't take my word for it though.

why don't you do this: instead of adding every damn bottle of bullshit that the folks at the hydro store tell you you need, why don't you start off with just using just your base nutes and see what happens. it might just be that you don't have any problems that require supplements. then if you DO have problems, you'll know what you're adding and to treat what exactly. the reason we do hydro is control. if you're just adding shit without an inkling as to why you're doing it, that's not exercising very good control. it's not good economics either.

for more on this, read up on lucas. i'd post a link to his thread, but it would violate the TOU to do so. he primarily hung out in other forums when he was posting actively. if you google "ask lucas" though, at the top of the search results, you'll find a link to 44 pages of information that every hydro grower should become familiar with before putting another ml of anything but npk in their rez.

you're gonna do what you're gonna do though. let us know how it works out. and keep your day job. for now at least. :comfort:
 

HUGE

Active member
Veteran
krunchbubble - THIS is EXACTLY what im talking about!! Youre insisting that im going to get root rot by using this product in hydro. What makes you draw that conclusion so easily? Assuming you read my very last post, youre saying that if i use hygrozyme in a recirculating hydro system, at any rate, and weather i have beneficials or not, that i will end up with root rot.

Does anybody agree with this? im simply trying to get a straight answer here, because it seems like a pretty outrageous statement to make.

Yes I agree 100%. I already told you once. dO not use Hygrozume in a recirculation system. Plain and simple.
 
I had dreaded root rot/pythium, tried the lot, hygrozyme did not help, h202 worked a bit, kept plants alive.

Then i used plain old bleach, no probs at all since.
 
M

Mtn Dew

Pond Zyme with barley :) 25$ and it be years before u run out unless u got a large res "Human ,Plant ,Animal ,Fish safe and works a charm
 

HUGE

Active member
Veteran
does this go for sensizym too?

Probably. The reason I say this enzymes are the're to help the decomposition of organic matter into food for microbes and plants. So if your running recirc you are probable using chem fertilizers and maybe some bottled "organics" like floralicious+. You aren't relying on microbes to break stuff down to feed the plants you are force feeding them strait chem nutes. So enzymes wail be of little use. If you are doing drain to waste you are either in soil or coco maybe drip to waste rockwool. Soil he'll yes enzymes will help all day, coco if you have been cultivating a microherd with bennies and aact teas or recycling your coco then yes enzymes should help. But if you are trying for a sterile chem note environment then enzymes are of 0 value and could actually lead to major problems. It's like if you put oil in your gas. Some applications like a weed wacker need oil mixed in the fuel, but go add oil to your cars gas tank and see what happens.
 
T

TREE KING

Probably. The reason I say this enzymes are the're to help the decomposition of organic matter into food for microbes and plants. So if your running recirc you are probable using chem fertilizers and maybe some bottled "organics" like floralicious+. You aren't relying on microbes to break stuff down to feed the plants you are force feeding them strait chem nutes. So enzymes wail be of little use. If you are doing drain to waste you are either in soil or coco maybe drip to waste rockwool. Soil he'll yes enzymes will help all day, coco if you have been cultivating a microherd with bennies and aact teas or recycling your coco then yes enzymes should help. But if you are trying for a sterile chem note environment then enzymes are of 0 value and could actually lead to major problems. It's like if you put oil in your gas. Some applications like a weed wacker need oil mixed in the fuel, but go add oil to your cars gas tank and see what happens.

thanks huge your making alot of sense. i just got one more question for you, can i run h202 with bud candy/molasses? what about bleach with bud candy? im basically wondering if the plants are able to take in the bud candy just as affectively while using these products with it. in my aeroponics system im planning to use ph perfect sensi 2 part, silica, bid bud/overdrive, and id like to also use bud candy with h202. id be happy with not adding anything else to have this dead res. also keep in mind the ph perfect has humic and fulvic acid in it is that a problem?
 
M

moodster

I had dreaded root rot/pythium, tried the lot, hygrozyme did not help, h202 worked a bit, kept plants alive.

Then i used plain old bleach, no probs at all since.
how much bleach are you using per gallon
 

HUGE

Active member
Veteran
Bud candy is made of 3 things I believe. Sugar/sucrose whenever a sweet component, Epsom salt, and water. If you don't have a heard of bacteria to feed the sweet is ineffective, but the extra magnesium and. Sulpher will help but you could just use Epsom salt from the store instead. The rest of your recipe looks tight. I would do bleach or pythoff or zone to keep the res dead the just do the sensi, silica, vigbud, overdrive. Then do a full flush for 7-14 days pure water and maybe some molasses, clearex.

But honestly I would start looking into coco DTW. It seems from observation and experience to be the (easiest, least effort to get great results) type of system there is. If set uo right
 

HUGE

Active member
Veteran
how much bleach are you using per gallon

1-2 ML per 10gallons. Also make sure it's pure bleach "food grade bleach" or it could contain stuff you don't want to smoke. Also you would be surprised how much bleach you can give a Plantbefore it dies from it.
 
T

TREE KING

Bud candy is made of 3 things I believe. Sugar/sucrose whenever a sweet component, Epsom salt, and water. If you don't have a heard of bacteria to feed the sweet is ineffective, but the extra magnesium and. Sulpher will help but you could just use Epsom salt from the store instead. The rest of your recipe looks tight. I would do bleach or pythoff or zone to keep the res dead the just do the sensi, silica, vigbud, overdrive. Then do a full flush for 7-14 days pure water and maybe some molasses, clearex.

But honestly I would start looking into coco DTW. It seems from observation and experience to be the (easiest, least effort to get great results) type of system there is. If set uo right

huge theres molasses in bud candy are you saying that it will have no affect on the plants unless bacteria is in there to feed it? are you sure about that?

either way lets just say that thats true, if i do decide to use bud candy the whole way through when i use bleach or zone it wont disrupt how the plants take it up the roots right? you never said i just wanna be clear
 
Last edited:

HUGE

Active member
Veteran
huge theres molasses in bud candy are you saying that it will have no affect on the plants unless bacteria is in there to feed it? are you sure about that?

either way lets just say that thats true, if i do decide to use bud candy the whole way through when i use bleach or zone it wont disrupt how the plants take it up the roots right? you never said i just wanna be clear

From what I understand t he actual "sugars/sweeteners" are in a form which is nit taken up by plants. The actual molecule itself is too large. The plant actually excretes some form of sugar for the microbes from what I understand. The microbes take these complex carbs and shit out stuff the plants take up which is basically the same shit in chem fertilizer.DISCLAIMER: this princess is much more complex than I described. This is simple me trying to give you a seance of what I have been told is happening.

To the question how does bleach/h2o2 affect the chemists of the errs or action in the root zone I have no fucking clue. All I know is bleach and peroxide oxidize shift which from what I understand kills microorganisms. So if you want to have a sterile environment you kill all the stuff in the environment. That's all I know.
 
T

TREE KING

From what I understand t he actual "sugars/sweeteners" are in a form which is nit taken up by plants. The actual molecule itself is too large. The plant actually excretes some form of sugar for the microbes from what I understand. The microbes take these complex carbs and shit out stuff the plants take up which is basically the same shit in chem fertilizer.DISCLAIMER: this princess is much more complex than I described. This is simple me trying to give you a seance of what I have been told is happening.

To the question how does bleach/h2o2 affect the chemists of the errs or action in the root zone I have no fucking clue. All I know is bleach and peroxide oxidize shift which from what I understand kills microorganisms. So if you want to have a sterile environment you kill all the stuff in the environment. That's all I know.

gotcha huge thanks. i think im gonna give the zone a try ive heard alot of good things about it
 

avant gardener

Member
Veteran
Bud candy is made of 3 things I believe. Sugar/sucrose whenever a sweet component, Epsom salt, and water. If you don't have a heard of bacteria to feed the sweet is ineffective, but the extra magnesium and. Sulpher will help but you could just use Epsom salt from the store instead. The rest of your recipe looks tight. I would do bleach or pythoff or zone to keep the res dead the just do the sensi, silica, vigbud, overdrive. Then do a full flush for 7-14 days pure water and maybe some molasses, clearex.

But honestly I would start looking into coco DTW. It seems from observation and experience to be the (easiest, least effort to get great results) type of system there is. If set uo right

you are disseminating bad information sir.

i run a dead rez and my plants definitely benefit from carbs.
it's not just speculation either. there are so many scholarly papers out there that show that plants in water culture definitely DO take up sugars through their roots that it's not even fair to argue with you.

it's a popular misconception around here.
 
T

TREE KING

you are disseminating bad information sir.

i run a dead rez and my plants definitely benefit from carbs.
it's not just speculation either. there are so many scholarly papers out there that show that plants in water culture definitely DO take up sugars through their roots that it's not even fair to argue with you.

it's a popular misconception around here.

what product do you use for carbs avant? i hope your right about this cause id like to use bud candy the whole way through with a dead res and get the benefits of it
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top