What did you read about Comfrey seeds?
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Living organic soil from start through recycling
- Thread starter Gascanastan
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gregor_mendel
Active member
I read that they rarely germinate.
As I type that, though, I find it questionable as I have also read that the reason we have the Russian variety is because the True Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) and Rough Comfrey (Symphytum asperum) readily hybridize, which must include seed germination.
As I type that, though, I find it questionable as I have also read that the reason we have the Russian variety is because the True Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) and Rough Comfrey (Symphytum asperum) readily hybridize, which must include seed germination.
GM
Read this from Horizon Herbs on Comfrey seeds. The 'cold moisture' cycle can easily be accomplished by planting the seeds into soil and then place them in the refrigerator for a couple of days.This is necessary for several plants - not all seeds but it's not rare at all.
Borage seeds benefit from freezing a couple of days - almost 100% germination - planned and unplanned as I learned this year from last year's seeds. After the winter cold, I had well over 200 Borage plants - I lost count. I let them stay in the beds until the other plants were up and running and then I yanked them and made 30 gallons of finished Borage concentrated tea which went back onto the beds as a soil soak.
CC
Read this from Horizon Herbs on Comfrey seeds. The 'cold moisture' cycle can easily be accomplished by planting the seeds into soil and then place them in the refrigerator for a couple of days.This is necessary for several plants - not all seeds but it's not rare at all.
Borage seeds benefit from freezing a couple of days - almost 100% germination - planned and unplanned as I learned this year from last year's seeds. After the winter cold, I had well over 200 Borage plants - I lost count. I let them stay in the beds until the other plants were up and running and then I yanked them and made 30 gallons of finished Borage concentrated tea which went back onto the beds as a soil soak.
CC
..I recommend for anyone serious enough about plants in general to take a simple horticulture course at the local city college or wherever you can. This will help understand the basic functions of plant and soil regardless of the level of education the instructor has.
All these questionable silly ass nonsense things cannabis gardeners are doing is pretty far from the basics of gardening,or reality in general as you can read in other threads ..hydro-store spew is in the 'fictional' category as well IMO.
After a human being gets the basics then you can begin to understand what the Coot and others are doing here.
..or at least read the most basic of horticultural books ...The Western Garden book is a good start..... elementary stuff......easy as pie...if you can make and eat a pie that is.
All these questionable silly ass nonsense things cannabis gardeners are doing is pretty far from the basics of gardening,or reality in general as you can read in other threads ..hydro-store spew is in the 'fictional' category as well IMO.
After a human being gets the basics then you can begin to understand what the Coot and others are doing here.
..or at least read the most basic of horticultural books ...The Western Garden book is a good start..... elementary stuff......easy as pie...if you can make and eat a pie that is.
PNW blackberry pie coming up this week~ Wild harvested...baked in organic flour and coconut oil pie crust....whud up!!
IncredibowlBoss
Member
While we're making book recs, I just grabbed The Soul of Soil after this thread inspired a search for true scientific tilth-related data - I've been thoroughly impressed and enlightened with just bout every page (only half way so far).
On another note, what concentrations of aloe Vera are folks having success with for foliar feedings? Even at 100% undiluted, my plants pray after a few days, but it does seem to piss em off at first (weaker foliage burns hard).
Also, somewhere in the thread I read about CCs cloning formula - can someone break that down for me? I'm about to cut a bunch of ECSD and I'd like to give it a go with these girls.
I'd use 2 tablespoons per gallon of water...apply 1 to 3 times per week.
Is it best to stick w/foliar feeding the aloe or does soil drench benefit, too? I'm not big into spraying but I guess I could be if necessary.
I have to try and find the study Im thinking of but on aloe in particular in this one study they compared spray vs drench and its effect on height, stem diameter, fresh and dry weights of the tested plants, the numbers were higher for both application methods but specifically drenching on the aloe.
The big jump was from using aloe period, through either application method....... but another 5-10% higher numbers switching from from spray to drench application.
Here it is
http://idosi.org/jhsop/4(1)12/4.pdf
GS
John Deere
This is good information!
90% of the Aloe vera that I use is when hydrating the soil. I use a 1/4 cup to 1 gallon of water which is higher than Gascanacan so start out with his mixing ratio.
I do add Aloe vera when applying botanical insecticides made from plants and when using Spinosad (bacteria culture). I 'think' I have a reason on the Spinosad but it's anecdotal so I'll leave that on the table.
CC
IncredibowlBoss
Member
All good stuff! What do you think about aloe in botanical teas? Add in the beginning, or mix with tea just before watering?
And how bout for clones? I'm thinking AV 1 tsp/gal + kelp & alfalfa botanical (.75 cups each in 5 gal for 36 hrs - then diluted down 2:1 w/ h2o) + humic acid (1.5 tsp/gal) - thoughts?
And how bout for clones? I'm thinking AV 1 tsp/gal + kelp & alfalfa botanical (.75 cups each in 5 gal for 36 hrs - then diluted down 2:1 w/ h2o) + humic acid (1.5 tsp/gal) - thoughts?
Here's a secret.....shhh. I use 1/4 cup per gallon but never tell people to use what %'s I do....That way I'm not held responsible for forking anyone fucking up there garden..LOL
Honestly start out with the 2 tablespoons and then move up from there...there are so many types of cannabis around you never know when you are going to get a genetically inferior type that can't handle much of anything.
Hey Coot should I mix that with American or Swiss cheese...and how much table salt again??? I read somewhere that kelp is worthless and there are no studies to confirm anything on it....maybe I read that on a stoner forum by an expert in growing cannabis...gospel right there.
IB
Chief Bigsmoke posted some pictures of his results when rooting his cuttings.
Here's the cloning juice you asked about....
1 gallon of clean clear water
2 tablespoons Aloe vera
1.5 tablespoons of BioAg Ful-Power (Fulvic acid - got I hate the name they come up with - too stoner for me! LMAO)
1 - 1.5 teaspoons Dyna Gro Pro-TeKt
Shake, shake shake - soak whatever it is that you like to use: Rapid Rooters, straight Sphagnum Peat (like Jiffy Pellets), whatever - I won't get into that mine field. I'm not all that smart but I'm smart enough to avoid some topics and this would be one of them.
If you use a rooting product that continue with that - no need to turn the whole cart over.
You will have massive root development that was promised by Oliva, Clonex, Dip My Shaft, et al.
I give you my word on that one
CC
B
BlueJayWay
CC's cloning solution is really working wonders for me and combined with regular botanical/aloe feedings is actually decreasing the time between clone---->beer cup---->1 gal----->5gal flowering, and we all know what that means.
1gal RO water with 60ml aloe, 30ml fulvic, 5ml protekt, soak the rapid rooters or whatever, dip the cuttings in the solution for several hrs/overnight, and watch 5" roots pop out in 7 days, 100% rooted in 10 days, been doing this now for a few clone sessions.
in the beer cup they generally get per 5gal RO water: 1cup aloe, 3/4cup alfalfa, 1/4cup kelp, 25ml protekt - bubbled for a day, the leftovers go to the rest of the veg garden, or they also will get whatever the tea of the day might be.
B
BlueJayWay
Sheeeeit CC, you beat me to the punch! And i notice i somehow doubled your recipe, or did you cut yours in half?
If I did then I apologize - when posting for others I always cut things in half.
Since I produce my own worm castings and thermal compost I have a handle on what will fly to pull maximum benefit.
Even using 1/2 will give you more than enough benefit. Remember that I root direct into my potting soil mix but I would not recommend that to anyone else.
"Cloning" like many other things in this paradigm is riddled with tradition and rites - with me not so much. LOL
CC
Since I produce my own worm castings and thermal compost I have a handle on what will fly to pull maximum benefit.
Even using 1/2 will give you more than enough benefit. Remember that I root direct into my potting soil mix but I would not recommend that to anyone else.
"Cloning" like many other things in this paradigm is riddled with tradition and rites - with me not so much. LOL
CC
B
BlueJayWay
I'm fairly new, relatively speaking, to amending my own soil mixes. The times I've put rooted cuttings into this mix, some strains get strange crinkly distorted growth, even some odd irregular yellowing or very dark foliage, while other strains just take right off.
So I've been sticking with 1:1:1 peat moss (or bagged "seedling" mix): EWC: rice hulls, and growth is very good and consistent, and only used in the beer cup stage.
So I've been sticking with 1:1:1 peat moss (or bagged "seedling" mix): EWC: rice hulls, and growth is very good and consistent, and only used in the beer cup stage.
BlueJay
Here's my deal on watering....
After several extended conversations over several months with the scientists at BioAg on the subject of Fulvic acid specifically, I use 1 oz. of Fulvic acid to each and every watering and I only did that after removing all alumina-silicate rock dusts (volcanic) and only using glacial rock dust - Glacial Milk
Aloe vera & barley seed tea is applied 1x per week and again with 1 oz of Fulvic acid. I am adding 1/4 tsp. (1 gram) of TM-7 which is their pure Humic acid with the 'Big 7' trace minerals as they're called in the fertilizer business.
A tea made from Alfalfa, Neem & Kelp meals is applied 1x per week as well and again Aloe vera and Fulvic acid is added.
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME - PLEASE
If a gardener doesn't have the rock dust deal down you will have problems. Again - do not try this at home. You will have major problems - BioAg's advice should be heeded.
CC
Here's my deal on watering....
After several extended conversations over several months with the scientists at BioAg on the subject of Fulvic acid specifically, I use 1 oz. of Fulvic acid to each and every watering and I only did that after removing all alumina-silicate rock dusts (volcanic) and only using glacial rock dust - Glacial Milk
Aloe vera & barley seed tea is applied 1x per week and again with 1 oz of Fulvic acid. I am adding 1/4 tsp. (1 gram) of TM-7 which is their pure Humic acid with the 'Big 7' trace minerals as they're called in the fertilizer business.
A tea made from Alfalfa, Neem & Kelp meals is applied 1x per week as well and again Aloe vera and Fulvic acid is added.
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME - PLEASE
If a gardener doesn't have the rock dust deal down you will have problems. Again - do not try this at home. You will have major problems - BioAg's advice should be heeded.
CC
IncredibowlBoss
Member
Thanks CC & BJW
In my never ending quest to avoid spending money at the grow store, I scoured my shelves and found Age Old Humic 12 (allegedly 12% Humic, 2.4% Fulvic), but no plausible stand in for the Pro-TeKt - no problem finding a K source, but soluble Si is gonna be tricky...
I'll try h2o, aloe & Humic 12 & report back
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