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A Complete Guide to Topping, Training and Pruning

M

MrSterling

Ganj, I'm no Kodiak but I can answer that. It's unfortunately strain dependent. Some will stretch only a little after the light flip, and some will double or triple. If it's a known strain around here someone with experience can offer advice, but this is one of those "dialing in" things you'll figure with time.
 

GanjaAL

Member
Ganj, I'm no Kodiak but I can answer that. It's unfortunately strain dependent. Some will stretch only a little after the light flip, and some will double or triple. If it's a known strain around here someone with experience can offer advice, but this is one of those "dialing in" things you'll figure with time.

Thanks brother... I will be running OG Raskal wifi and Skywaker OG... so they stretch a little so max will be 12" then.... thanks brother.
 

Kodiak

Mad Scientist
Veteran
Hi guys,

Yeah, MrSterling is right, the stretch is strain dependent. There is also some variation from indiviudal to individual. Sativa dominant plants will stretch more and they will therefore require more training. If you grow the same clones over and over, you will eventually dial in all these things.

The 1K light is strong and penetrates quite deep, so I wouldn't worry too much. Keep the light as close as possible, especially when you flip the switch, and things will probably work out. Close but not too close. You don't want to burn the tops.

If you're using a metal halide bulb for vegging, keep it in place for the first 2 weeks of 12/12. That will reduce the stretch somewhat.
 

Rolldaddy

Member
In regards to keeping stretching to a minimum. I have found that during the flip to have a long dark period of 36 to 48 hours between 18/6 and 12/12 also keeps stretching down.
 

GanjaAL

Member
Thank you all for chiming in... just want to make sure I maximize my grow and not waste space. I am shooting for a 6' x 9' scrog with 6 plants... let us see what happens. ;)

3- 1k bulbs.
 

GanjaAL

Member
No more tha 12" do to the fact that with the magic pots and dtw I only have 3' of vertical height max for them... so if they triple in size that will put them right at the mark. 15/gal pots is what I am using so I hope this gets er' done. Mind you... the goal is to fill the screen.
 

Kodiak

Mad Scientist
Veteran
Hi Guys,

I'm glad that you take the time to help each other out on this thread because I simply do not have the time to tend to it as often as I used to.

I will try to log in as often as possible but feel free to post answers to questions any time.

I'm sure that your trick works Rolldaddy, or you wouldn't mention it, but I still find it strange that any kind of dark period would reduce the stretch, as the opposite is usually the case.

The stretch is a response to the absence of light and it's tied in with phototropism. The plants reach for the light that used to be there and thereby elongate.

Either way, the most important thing is reducing the stretch, by any means.

Keep up the good work guys.

K
 

packerfan79

Active member
Veteran
I think monster cropping would be a great way to jumpstart a mother/s with many potential clones.My only reservation would be that i have always heard reveging leads to lower yields,has anyone tried it?I am going to pull some clones for the next round tommorow, i have been lst'ing for almost 3 weeks my girls are starting get way bushy, they need to go in to flower soon if i want a green x mas. I will have good long veg this way 2 weeks to root and 6 weeks to veg fim and lst befor this crop is finished. my goal is never an empty flowering room, didnt happen last crop i had a hard time finding quality clones so my flower room sat for two weeks empty.amazing what can be done with this amazing plant
 

dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I think monster cropping would be a great way to jumpstart a mother/s with many potential clones.My only reservation would be that i have always heard reveging leads to lower yields,has anyone tried it?


Never heard that one , or experienced it . i monstercrop clones all the time . they're great for moms & short veg time gives you short fat squat plants in flower . for cases of short headroom like mine .
 

Kodiak

Mad Scientist
Veteran
Thanks for chipping in dansbuds :yes:

i have always heard reveging leads to lower yields,has anyone tried it?

I think that the opposite is actually true, based on what I have seen and what friends have told me.

The revegged plant already has well established roots and a thick stem for transporting water and nutrients. All this adds up to a plant that is much stronger and better equipped for flowering than any seedling.

The bud also seems to get better the second time round, for some reason. The buds grow larger, thicker and more frequent. They smell and taste better as well. Potency is about the same as that is coded into the plants genes but you would see an improvement in almost all the other areas.

Give it a shot. If it works you'll end up with one monster mama.
 
Wow great thread! Thanks to all the contributors.

Hope someone can help me with what is to me a quintessential question: When is the latest a plant can be topped without negatively affecting yield?

Obviously, this deadline depends on many factors, such as how large, multi-branched and stealthy the plant is, among other things. Personally, I am interested to understand what should be the rule of thumb specifically for healthy mid size outdoor plants, grown scrog style, with high number of tops per plant. Plants are pruned such as to have as many tops at canopy level as possible, and with all branching below the canopy removed (leaves are not removed).

My personal experience is that if plant is topped less than 2-3 weeks before showing pistils (approx. day 1 of flowering period in indoor environment) this results in lower yield. This is due to the fact that there is not enough time for the new branches to grow sufficiently stealthy before the plant's growth starts slowing. When pruned too late, the top buds are less stealthy and not as long.

I must admit I have not read through the entire thread, but will do so slowly but surely. Pardon me if this question had^s already been covered somewhere (in which case I wouldn't mind if you could let me know where to find the info... Hehe hope to hear from you guys.

Sharpening the old machete as we speak... so to say, the season is near. :woohoo:
:bump:this thread is science in the making
 
W

willyweed

i have read this one about 4 times and currently have 3 daughters growing sideways and up great advice many thanks
 

Kodiak

Mad Scientist
Veteran
Hi guys,

No problem willyweed, glad you found the guide useful.


early4surely, there's no strict guideline here but generally, you should not top the plant once it starts flowering. Vegetative growth slows down and flowering takes its place.

Planning ahead is the key to success when it comes to topping, training and pruning. All the training should be done by the time the plant starts flowering, save for some light LSTing where needed.

There's no need to remove any tops if you have a healthy, scrogged plant, that has already gone through some training.

Watch the plants and look for energy sinks. Other than that, leave the plant be and it will produce as much bud as it can.

Most of the time, it's better not to mess with them too much than vice versa.
 
M

MrSterling

Revegging lowering yields is an old piece of Jorge advice from the growing bible I believe.
 
Just for fun, here are some old pics of a few haze-dominant kush hybrids I had fun training. The yields were crap because the room ran way too hot for a few weeks at the end, but I've got some great shapes going!!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1351380329.628402.jpg
Just a little more.

As you can see, more bud sites doesn't always equal more bud!

That said, the current crop has an amazingly even canopy thanks to the same techniques (and THESE ladies are gonna YIELD!)
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1351380502.072069.jpg
 

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