Illumination
Member
Yes Really. That's why we introduced Miro aluminum in horticultural reflectors in 2002.
then the design of the deeps is far superior to the miro hammered reflectors they replaced...thanx
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Air cooled reflector testing with Digital footcandle meter
- Thread starter pico
- Start date
then the design of the deeps is far superior to the miro hammered reflectors they replaced...thanx
Illumination
Member
http://www.bulbs.com/espec.aspx?ID=18388
here it is in an 830 cmh watt to run on a 1000 watt mh ballast
more info
http://www.bchydro.com/ecatalog/eCa...tage All Start 830W BT56-CDM830/V/O/4K EA 6PK
spectrum graph:
A
ak-51
I am about to try running my setup without glass and I have a few questions.
My setup is 1000w in a DR150 5x5 tent. Currently I run carbon scrubber > 6" fan > hood > out of tent. What I was thinking of switching to was carbon scrubber > fan > out of tent; and then having a duct booster pulling air from one of the ducts on the reflector out of the tent. The problem with this is that now instead of one active exhaust I have two, and I'm not sure a duct booster is strong enough to overcome the already negative pressure of the 6" in-line. If I just run the carbon scrubber to 6" in-line out will that be enough to keep the tent cool? The temperature outside of the tent is anywhere from 75 to 85 F.
jonezin
Member
Personally I don't know why anyone would not use the glass. Yeah it gets dirty, yeah it might slightly cut down on light output to the plants. But if you need to cool the light why not just keep it in? Just clean it when needed.
I basically had the same setup you have. Only mine was a DR120 with a Super Sun 2 1000 watt Quantum with hortilux bulb. I had a Can 66 in the tent with an 8" can fan. I had the fan mounted outside of the tent with it running from Can 66-->Hood-->Can Fan outside the tent.. I ended up switching it to hood-->Fan--> Can66 not long after I set it up and it worked just as good. I wanted more room in the tent so I moved the Can 66 out is what I mean and pushed through the Can 66, it worked great that way too. I also had one of those boosters hooked up to pull air into the tent too, but I didn't use it for long. I kind of miss that setup. I have a much larger room now with 3000 watts but the tent was cool too.
I basically had the same setup you have. Only mine was a DR120 with a Super Sun 2 1000 watt Quantum with hortilux bulb. I had a Can 66 in the tent with an 8" can fan. I had the fan mounted outside of the tent with it running from Can 66-->Hood-->Can Fan outside the tent.. I ended up switching it to hood-->Fan--> Can66 not long after I set it up and it worked just as good. I wanted more room in the tent so I moved the Can 66 out is what I mean and pushed through the Can 66, it worked great that way too. I also had one of those boosters hooked up to pull air into the tent too, but I didn't use it for long. I kind of miss that setup. I have a much larger room now with 3000 watts but the tent was cool too.
Interesting overview: GAVITA Grow Lights Gavita Professional Grade Lighting Holland - Monster Gardens Interview Grow
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9nTtIHrUss&feature=g-high-rec
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9nTtIHrUss&feature=g-high-rec
I
Iffy-Caradoc
Air cooled lights
Air cooled lights
Well presented & thorough experiment. Some very practical, useful data.
I run Cool Star tubes 3 x 600 & your post made me check them again for cracks & leaks.
Bookmarked.
Stay safe
Air cooled lights
Well presented & thorough experiment. Some very practical, useful data.
I run Cool Star tubes 3 x 600 & your post made me check them again for cracks & leaks.
Bookmarked.
Stay safe
What are you using these days?
I've got 3x600's in SS2's and am setting up another room. Not sure if the SS2's are currently still the best available option. It's going to be another 3x600 room. Not vertical.
I'm worried that changing to a non-air-cooled-hood system won't let me get my plants as close to my lights. So it would be effectively about the same either way.
I'll be running a can-fan style exhaust fan out of my rooms 24/7 whether or not I use air-cooled hoods.
I'm thinking that 3 bat-wing style fixtures might fit the bill.
Anyone with some comments?
Thanks
T
G
Guest 349079
i phoned my local hydro store to buy the blockbuster 2 shade and he said the blazer would be a better choice for a dr100 grow tent so i bought it bad mistake it dosent light 1m2 IMO
so i will be buying the blockbuster 2 soon as i get the money peace gtbh
so i will be buying the blockbuster 2 soon as i get the money peace gtbh
I have just been running my SS2's without glass or aircooling. If I was to setup a new room I would buy something similar without the air cooled vents. If you look at the tests previously in this thread, you will see the batwing design is not very efficient at putting light down to the canopy.
I
Iffy-Caradoc
Air cooled lights
Air cooled lights
Your dead right about not getting the plants too close to open bulbs. I suffered real bad leaf burn & worse, resin vapourisation!
I have height issues in my loftie so I had to switch to Air Cooled. The plants can actually touch the glass & no probs.
Your room/tent won't be as warm & ergo not as humid but it doesn't take long to get re-dialled in.
I'm not sure about the 'batwing' reflectors anyway. I believe there are better ones out there.
Stay safe
Air cooled lights
Your dead right about not getting the plants too close to open bulbs. I suffered real bad leaf burn & worse, resin vapourisation!
I have height issues in my loftie so I had to switch to Air Cooled. The plants can actually touch the glass & no probs.
Your room/tent won't be as warm & ergo not as humid but it doesn't take long to get re-dialled in.
I'm not sure about the 'batwing' reflectors anyway. I believe there are better ones out there.
Stay safe
i didn't find it, pleaz any link or quote !! i just read the wall thread, untill your post, no adjustawing results have been posted. thanks
RomulusUSA
Member
The Blockbuster has never been put on your grid, has it Pico? I think its what I'm going to use over my 4.5x9ft space.
Low Growth Areas
Low Growth Areas
Hi Folks,
Great thread & I just want to add my experience with Coolstar lights.
I run three 600W in Coolstar reflectors over an 8' x 3' NFT table, evenly spaced. I placed 14 plants on the table in 6.5L pots & Hydroton.
I was dissapointed to note that two distinct areas of low growth developed in the gaps between the lights. It was ok in vegging when they were small, I could move them around to get an even canopy. However once grown & the SCROG net in place this was impossible. As the plants grew, the low growth areas became more obvious. I now realise that I went about setting up the table completely 'arse about face' but there you go, I'm learning every day. This is how I set it up.
I should have realised this from the beginning just from the design of the lights. Whilst the spread of light from the angled sides is good, from the vertical end plates, its really poor. Resulting in shaded areas of low growth. I was going to add another 600W Coolstar to solve this but I already have heat issues so that would just add to my problem. I can manage the heat from 3 x 600 lights with the equipment I have at the moment, so I have to change to suit my circumstance. For my next grow I'm reducing numbers to 12 & spacing them out for maximum light benefit:
Something like this. Hindsight is 20/20!!
Hope this helps someone.
Stay safe
Low Growth Areas
Hi Folks,
Great thread & I just want to add my experience with Coolstar lights.
I run three 600W in Coolstar reflectors over an 8' x 3' NFT table, evenly spaced. I placed 14 plants on the table in 6.5L pots & Hydroton.
I was dissapointed to note that two distinct areas of low growth developed in the gaps between the lights. It was ok in vegging when they were small, I could move them around to get an even canopy. However once grown & the SCROG net in place this was impossible. As the plants grew, the low growth areas became more obvious. I now realise that I went about setting up the table completely 'arse about face' but there you go, I'm learning every day. This is how I set it up.
I should have realised this from the beginning just from the design of the lights. Whilst the spread of light from the angled sides is good, from the vertical end plates, its really poor. Resulting in shaded areas of low growth. I was going to add another 600W Coolstar to solve this but I already have heat issues so that would just add to my problem. I can manage the heat from 3 x 600 lights with the equipment I have at the moment, so I have to change to suit my circumstance. For my next grow I'm reducing numbers to 12 & spacing them out for maximum light benefit:
Something like this. Hindsight is 20/20!!
Hope this helps someone.
Stay safe
KING_JOHN_C
Member
took me 2 days to read this thread, excellent work!
