Tip burn and coloring..Please help!!

[1ManGrow]

Ok I am on Day 45 of flower(From showing sex)I am using Organic soil and watering with neutral ph'd water..I have not ran into any problems this whole time but now I think I am seeing some deficiencies..I believe it is a Mag Def but am not sure as this is the first plant I have grown...

It started at the bottom old big fan leaves but is starting to creep up to the newer growth....

I need to water tomorrow so any help on what it is so I can get a batch of water going in the bubble tub with nutes if needed for tomorrows watering..


Here are a few pictures...

Last 2 came out like crap...

If you need more info or pictures then let me know and I will post


Thanks For all help!!

 

[zone 8]

that looks similar to what I have, so far my best guess is Nitrogen deficiency so far.

Nitrogen. The chlorotic symptoms shown by this leaf resulted from nitrogen deficiency. A light red cast can also be seen on the veins and petioles. Under nitrogen deficiency, the older mature leaves gradually change from their normal characteristic green appearance to a much paler green. As the deficiency progresses these older leaves become uniformly yellow (chlorotic). Leaves approach a yellowish white color under extreme deficiency. The young leaves at the top of the plant maintain a green but paler color and tend to become smaller in size. Branching is reduced in nitrogen deficient plants resulting in short, spindly plants. The yellowing in nitrogen deficiency is uniform over the entire leaf including the veins. However in some instances, an interveinal necrosis replaces the chlorosis commonly found in many plants. In some plants the underside of the leaves and/or the petioles and midribs develop traces of a reddish or purple color. In some plants this coloration can be quite bright. As the deficiency progresses, the older leaves also show more of a tendency to wilt under mild water stress and become senescent much earlier than usual. Recovery of deficient plants to applied nitrogen is immediate (days) and spectacular.

Problem: Nitrogen is important during the vegetative stage of your cannabis plants. As your plants start flowering, they will need lower amounts of nitrogen. A nitrogen deficiency will cause the older, lower leaves on your plant to start turning yellow and eventually die. It's relatively normal for your plant's leaves to start turning yellow towards the end of your flowering cycle as the plant becomes nitrogen deficient while it's creating its buds. However, if you notice your leaves turning yellow in the vegetative stage or in the beginning parts of the flowering stage, your plant may be experiencing a nitrogen deficiency which will need to be treated. The first picture is a plant in the vegetative stage which is experiencing the beginnings of a nitrogen deficiency. The second plant is showing signs of nitrogen deficiency late in flowering and is completely normal. The last picture is an infographic about nitrogen and your marijuana plant.

PH levels for Nitrogen:

Soil levels
Nitrogen gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0- 5.5.
Nitrogen is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-8.0. ( wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) best range to have nitrogen is a ph of 6-7. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.


info taken from: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=231387

 

[Sat X RB]

take it easy here! as yr plant goes further into flower the bottom leaves die off naturally ... especially if yr strain is a sativa derivative.

can you upload a pic of yr whole plant so we can see its top growth?

 

[Raedwulf]

 

[1ManGrow]

take it easy here! as yr plant goes further into flower the bottom leaves die off naturally ... especially if yr strain is a sativa derivative.

can you upload a pic of yr whole plant so we can see its top growth?

Here are a couple more

I have a gallon of water that I mixed 1 1/2 tablespoons of epsom salt and 20 drops of 10-15-10 aerating till tomorrow when I feed...

If this is not recommend please let me know and recommend what would be proper...

Any other questions just ask...

Yes I had to bandage her up from training a little to hard...

 

[Sat X RB]

this looks like overwatering to me, not a deficiency. so I would NOT feed.

it seems to me that when plants go into flower their water requirements reduce. the process of flowering is slower and steadier than the fast rates of growth I 've seen when the plant is young. (which is another way of saying that young plants handle lots of water better than flowering plants do.)

how often do you water? and do you water lots each time?

let yr pot dry out.

many of these leaves are so damaged they will not recover. your plant will grow slower now.

begin thinking about yr next planting!

cheers!

 

[1ManGrow]

I water when the pot is real light which usually 4 days..the leaf curl has been there since 1 week into flower.when I water I give the plant 52 to 78 oz water .when it starts o drain out the bottom I stop watering...

 

[thefanfx]

Overwatering

Overwatering

it's overwatering sure 101%

the moisture is killing your roots m8 , take some actions

put more holes @ the bottom of your pots - more = better

use some stick and carefully grain the top of the soil to make some easy air access

decrease the watering with let's say 1 day more with no water between

give them more light , heat , air and in 3-4 days all will get back to normal

note: water going out from the bottom holes is not good approach
because when the moisture is collected at the bottom , it's harder to go true it , as well there more and more roots each day so it's normal the water to go slower and slower out

GL

 

[SeaMaiden]

Here are a couple more


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I have a gallon of water that I mixed 1 1/2 tablespoons of epsom salt and 20 drops of 10-15-10 aerating till tomorrow when I feed...

If this is not recommend please let me know and recommend what would be proper...

Any other questions just ask...

Yes I had to bandage her up from training a little to hard...

OUCH! Not that much MgSO4! Use 1/4 TEASPOON in 1gal water, and you can give it as a foliar (be sure to add a few drops of surfactant such as non-antimicrobial dish soap). IF it's a Mg- then the leaves will green back up. But I personally think you've got a bit more than a Mg- deficiency going on.

Primarily it's a N-, in a big way. Light green leaves along with not only reddened petioles but leaf veins indicate this. The further yellowing of OLDER growth is another indicator, but if the plant didn't have sufficient N reserves in older growth then it's just going to find it where it can. It doesn't have much in reserve there.

The plant definitely looks as though it's overwatered OR as though it's extremely unhappy about some other parameters. I'm going to suggest learning about vapor pressure deficit, figure out where yours is (it should be around .85kPa). When VPD is off you'll see things like the plant pulling leaves inward and downward in order to slow down transpiration.

It's important to understand VPD because it IS the plant's circulation system, it is how the plant moves water and nutrients throughout its tissues.

Also, try bottom watering, your medium looks a bit too dry while the plant appears overwatered.

 

[1ManGrow]

Thank you everyone and Thank you SeaMaiden-That was very insightful..

I will try what you suggested..I am in the process of building a wardrobe cabinet and getting out of the rubbermaid. We have very hot summers here so I think the heat and small grow area coupled with my bigness is what is causing problems..

I only watered when pot was light and leaves were drooping..

If the foliar feed does not work then I might just chop and make hash until I get my wardrobe cab finished which will be about another week....

Should I still feed her the 10-15-10 plant food on next watering or just stay with water?

My air temp is 84 my rh is 47 and canopy is 80

From the vpd calculator it came out to 1.39..
I take it this is to high..


Thanks Again

 

[SeaMaiden]

Yes, that is too high, too dry, too warm. Can you get a humidifier near her at all? If it's really hot and dry, then she may not be able to really use what you give her.

IF you can get the RH up, then yes, I would try giving a bit more food, but go SLOW and LOW, quarter dose or so, and I would make sure the media is damp first. Or, I would use some fresh urine diluted to about 10:1 urine:water.

 

[1ManGrow]

I thought the Rh was suppose to be low 40-60 percent during flower.I would like to hear your thoughts on this..Anyway.I chopped her down and will make hash.I did not chop her because of the problems..it had more to do with being a 3 yr old bag seed and it did not look like it was worth the electric ..I am almost complete with my wardrobe cab and will just buy some good genitics next round...

Thank you for the help .+rep

 

[SeaMaiden]

When you get below 50% RH transpiration is slowed down, and this is important to understand in relation to vapor pressure deficit (interplay of temperature in relation to humidity and how that drives water and nutrients through plant tissues; i.e. transpiration).

I've heard arguments in favor of allowing a low drop at least in the last month to two weeks in flower, but I personally have had very good results allowing a relative humidity of at least 60%, with my (indoor) plants showing that they're most pleased with conditions when temps are in the high 70s to low 80s and RH is nearing 70% and above. I do prefer to grow Sativas, but have found my Indica-doms and clear hybrids also appreciate these conditions, which lead to a VPD in the range of .8-1.0kPa.

So, mixed opinions likely based on mixed experiences. The most oft cited reason for not allowing a higher RH is mold, but my rebuttal is that if your plants are truly in optimal health then they can easily fight off a bit of mold (as does some diligence and NOT creating a packed cultivation scenario that disallows air movement and ease of observation).

There *should* be no mixed opinions on the high humidity 'causing' powdery mildew. That is dependent on variables like temperature, species of mildew, and again plant health.

HOWEVER! In lieu of optimum plant health, you can use something like JMS Stylet oil, which is a physical barrier that leaves no flavor or residue, should you be concerned with powdery mildew development.

 

[1ManGrow]

Nice..I will keep that all in mind next round...Thanks for taking the time to explain..It makes since..