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passive plant killer

high life 45

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Hey D9 can we see a pic of your facility before it gets filled with buckets, hid lights etc? I would love to see you put a place together.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
They were in #5 nursery pots. Bumped off the bottom inch or two, squeezed some more coco around the edges. Veged for a few more days to see if they stunted.



View Image

Three rows of four plants, two rows of 3K each down the middle.

You can see that the shape of the center row plants are not square enough to maximize the premium light zone.

Wall rows consistently produce more gpw than center rows. Center rows just don't have enough budsites in premium light to compare to the side rows.

"i love big plants i cannot lie" to the tune of "i love big butts".

i can see plants of all sizes so you are running perpetual. what's your approx normal per plant yield averaged over all strains?

your center row plants illustrate the classic conundrum of lighting three dimensional plants indoors. to make the distance correct you would have to pull lights away from the wall plants, losing yield there.

it would be interesting sometime to grow one plant indoors to giant size with the correct lighting set up.

expensive but interesting.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Hey D9 can we see a pic of your facility before it gets filled with buckets, hid lights etc? I would love to see you put a place together.

sure, i been so busy i haven't thought much about photos lately. i've got the room all framed and the fiberglass insulation, foam boards, and spray foam stuff done and started on the reflectix liner/wall covering.
 

high life 45

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sure, i been so busy i haven't thought much about photos lately. i've got the room all framed and the fiberglass insulation, foam boards, and spray foam stuff done and started on the reflectix liner/wall covering.

Sweet, it would be cool for everyone watching to see the start to finish.

was asked to post some pics of some of the stuff....

threw this together to light up the first set of (16) ppks in (2) rows tied back to screens behind... one row of lights down the middle (double-stacked bare vertical bulbs).

The huge bunch of 14/3 zapped up is so I have enough slack length later to install a relay (actually a definite purpose contactor) between each pair of outlets.... It is NOT to code (those 14 AWG wires should be enclosed in conduit or hidden behind a cover and not all coiled up) but each circuit is adequately protected by a correctly sized breaker and every connection is solid and tight.

To flip (32) lights and have (16) on at a time, the (4) relay/contactors will go in a separate work/junction box mounted directly under this on the wall. (4) feeds will come out of the sub-panel and go directly into the relay box and (8) feeds will come out of the relay box to the (8) outlets.

There is conduit that slides up for the 240V feed (8/3 c AWG for now - 14 lights 600W/400W mixed and then 3x3 AWG plus ground later for 16x600W). The 8 AWG is basically 45 amp cable and the 3 AWG is good for 80% of 100 AMPS or 80 amps.

At the moment there is one large contactor that is inline on the 240V feed from the main before this sub-panel just to control the photoperiod for (14) lights in (7) pairs.

That contactor can be removed and then (4) can be installed inline between the sub-panel and each pair of outlets so that (2) rooms can be flipped back and forth for a total of (32) lights.

With this setup the (32) lights will be 600's as the panel is only 100 amp.

Depending on what I do with this area in the near future, this particular electrical board can also be moved to a dedicated veg area with just the single relay/contactor left in-line on the 240V feed to give me the 18/6 I use in veg. It's pretty versatile and super economical.

Are you using the relay to switch power to the outlets, that the ballast will plug into?

I have made two flips recently and I need at least one relay to power two bulbs at any given moment.

But that was switching the power from the ballast to the lamp...



This one switches power from ballast to one of four bulbs

The guy at the grow store wanted me to market this thing. I feel like the application is pretty specific and sharing knowledge is more rewarding for me.


Also try a 12/1 lighting schedule, I just did for the first time.

I went back to an 18/6 checked it out and went right back to 12/1.

The rate of growth is amazing.

Much faster growth for me with a 12/1 than 18/6 with out a doubt

I actually use 12on 5off 2on 5off.

I am sure there is much debate about this but its what works for me at the moment.
 
your center row plants illustrate the classic conundrum of lighting three dimensional plants indoors. to make the distance correct you would have to pull lights away from the wall plants, losing yield there.

Couldn't I just move my plants off the walls, closer too the lights?

The bigger question is: If I got the lighting/spacing right, how the fuck could I tend to the ladies? I need a little room to breath, kids.

EDIT: I don't have enough posts to see who tossed positive rep my way, but thanks.
 

high life 45

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Can we see a pic of your contactor. You might only need 8 if you have the same kind as me.

Are you running digital ballasts?

I have to shut power off before flipping my lumateks, my nextgen can hot flip.

I either have to install a contact to turn of power for one minute while they flip, or if im lucky and can get ahold of my friend trade him ballasts that can handle the position.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Couldn't I just move my plants off the walls, closer too the lights?

The bigger question is: If I got the lighting/spacing right, how the fuck could I tend to the ladies? I need a little room to breath, kids.

EDIT: I don't have enough posts to see who tossed positive rep my way, but thanks.

i just meant that in a checkerboard type arrangement with the spacing on centers if you start the plants at the right distance you will have small squares initially. then as the plants grow you will have to expand each individual square size equally in all directions. moving the plants and lights outward from some central point. taking up more and more floor space and lighting the plants less and less effectively as you do so.

if you imagine the central point in the room is a light that light will be the only object in the entire room of plants and lights that will not have to be moved.
 
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delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
hl and disciple, thanks for the electrical stuff! i need help in that area. by tomorrow i hope to start wiring.

the first thing i need to do is run a dedicated 40 amp 120v line to the five ac's. at max draw they are 6.9 amps each.

the panel is about 28 ft from where i will enter the room through the tube.

what size wire should i use for this?

i'm thinking about putting the ballasts, flips, and timers in a big metal locker outside the room but adjacent to it so i can go through the wall from the back of the locker.

i've got a 50 amp 240 range receptacle about 6 ft from the panel. it is also about 28 ft from the place where i will put the metal locker. it's got a massive wire going to it. i figure the lights will draw about 30 amps. what size wire will i need to make that run?

since i will be running all six ballast on the same 240 circuit i will need either a 240 timer or a flip capable of handling the amps switched by a 120 timer.

i've got the 240v t-104 intermatic that could go inline to the ballast and a bunch of digital 120 timers.

electricity is not my strong point. my shit always looks like the hook ups in a rio de janeiro slum. wires running everywhere. but it works.

this time i want to have some safety. i just got bit the other day removing a circuit that was in my way. glad i'm not on a pacemaker.
 

high life 45

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How much power do you have in your shop? I think I remember you saying it has its own meter/200amps or something.

If thats the case personally I would get something big and run a sub panel to where you need it.

Then do smaller runs from there.

It might be a bit more expensive but to me its worth it to have what ya need where ya need it.
Turning off a breaker thats right outside your door vs 28' away.

You can always change out the breaker on the main panel and add to the sub panel to suit your needs.

Who knows how big you will expand with you 48 potential plant sites and all.


I am pretty sure that 10/3 is rated for 30 amps.
I usually go to Home Depot and just buy something slightly overrated for my use.
Here is something that may help ya
http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.htm

That way I know Im safe and I have room for expansion, for example I THINK I have 6ga wire running from a 70 amp breaker to a sub panel with a 40 amp and 30 amp breaker.

My electrician bro said I didn't need it to be that big and then I said "expansion" and he nodded his head in approval.

Make sure your ballast aren't gonna get to hot in the locker.

I have a subpanel going to my lights right now right next to 2 t104 timers.

Its nice for me because getting to that spot requires going up a 10' ladder.

If I forget to turn the breaker off at the panel. I can just turn off the breaker on the sub panel. I will try to get some pics of it later today.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
“How much power do you have in your shop? I think I remember you saying it has its own meter/200amps or something.”


I wish it had a separate meter so I could run crossing lines and shift some of the load to the house bill. I might have one installed in the future. Two meters are common here when people have shop buildings they are running some kind of business out of. It's for tax purposes. They said it was a 200 amp panel. I'll try to get a picture of it later.


“If thats the case personally I would get something big and run a sub panel to where you need it.”


You are right. It is a more elegant solution. I'm not sure I know how to do it though. It seems to me that I could remove the 50 amp range breaker and put in a larger breaker and run one piece of that larger line to the panel. What I don't understand is how to split up the sub panel for 120 and 240 volt circuits.


“It might be a bit more expensive but to me its worth it to have what ya need where ya need it.
Turning off a breaker thats right outside your door vs 28' away.”


yes, and it's probably less expensive to run one larger wire than a bunch of smaller ones the 28'. but what type of sub panel should I get?


“You can always change out the breaker on the main panel and add to the sub panel to suit your needs.”


ok


“Who knows how big you will expand with you 48 potential plant sites and all.”


right now i'm stuck at 24 sites and one room unless I can figure out a way to generate juice. I'm at a comfortable working limit with the electricity. The entire show will run on less than 10 dollars a day plus the house which is heavily insulated and very efficient. I'm thinking about switching the major appliances to propane to try and run another room with 6k more. I could run the stove, clothes dryer, and hot water on it. Maybe heat as I have a centrally located ventless fireplace. I need to see a bill or two first.


“I am pretty sure that 10/3 is rated for 30 amps.
I usually go to Home Depot and just buy something slightly overrated for my use.
Here is something that may help ya
http://www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.htm

That way I know Im safe and I have room for expansion, for example I THINK I have 6ga wire running from a 70 amp breaker to a sub panel with a 40 amp and 30 amp breaker.

My electrician bro said I didn't need it to be that big and then I said "expansion" and he nodded his head in approval.

Make sure your ballast aren't gonna get to hot in the locker.

I have a subpanel going to my lights right now right next to 2 t104 timers.

Its nice for me because getting to that spot requires going up a 10' ladder.

If I forget to turn the breaker off at the panel. I can just turn off the breaker on the sub panel. I will try to get some pics of it later today.”


thank you! I gotta get to work now. Right after this big bowl of “The Dope”. It's a great morning smoke. A cup of cafe con leche and a bowl. Life is good.
__________________
 
if you imagine the central point in the room is a light that light will be the only object in the entire room of plants and lights that will not have to be moved.

Okay.

Indoor gardening is a game of compromises. So many limitations and restrictions.

My veg is lethargic. Once that comes around, I'd like to have enough material to fill the full space, and then allow strech move material to the light and to fill in the premium light zone. But that presumes I can get the veg cranking a bit (lot) faster.

(I'm really just posting for post count.)
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
"Indoor gardening is a game of compromises. So many limitations and restrictions."


the truth.


"(I'm really just posting for post count.) "


so, how's the weather in your neck of the woods?
 
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