any good or bad experience with dxhydro...

[thisoldhouse]

thank you Rives! Forgot how handy relays are would I be able to use one relay or would I need more than one if I were to incorporate the button? I think I would cut the timer power which is 120v. that is then wired to an open style relay which switches my 240v lighting power.

I'm assuming the relays you are referring to are the ice cube type?

 

[Tactician]

I also build custom lighting controllers for 4 to 400 lights. Licensed industrial electrician with 25 years experience. If you do some reading and have the right tools, you can easilly assemble your own panel/controller. From what I've seen, a few of the dx controllers would not pass inpsection, but not serious violations.

 

[thisoldhouse]

I have done the simpler type controls, but wanted to try my hand at fancier add-on's like the high temp cut-off, etc.

 

[Tactician]

Depending on what you are powering off and on, you may need contactor(s) instead of form c relays.

 

[rives]

thank you Rives! Forgot how handy relays are would I be able to use one relay or would I need more than one if I were to incorporate the button? I think I would cut the timer power which is 120v. that is then wired to an open style relay which switches my 240v lighting power.

I'm assuming the relays you are referring to are the ice cube type?

The only down side to cutting the timer power would be that you would need to reset your timer after the circuit activated. If you already have a power relay in place for your lighting, you could drive an ice cube relay with the the thermostat, use one n.o. contact for a holding circuit, and a n.c. contact to interrupt the switch leg to the power relay. This way your timer stays set, and I think gives you the functionality that you want.

 

[thisoldhouse]

Depending on what you are powering off and on, you may need contactor(s) instead of form c relays.

I'll look up the c relays. Thank you!

The only down side to cutting the timer power would be that you would need to reset your timer after the circuit activated. If you already have a power relay in place for your lighting, you could drive an ice cube relay with the the thermostat, use one n.o. contact for a holding circuit, and a n.c. contact to interrupt the switch leg to the power relay. This way your timer stays set, and I think gives you the functionality that you want.

After thinking about it, I should have said to cut the 120v power after the timer. I like your suggestion, thank you!

 

[thisoldhouse]

I also realized I'd need to use the N/C contacts on the t-stat going to the coil. Was going batty trying to work this out until I reread the instructions online regarding the t-stat

 

[rives]

I also realized I'd need to use the N/C contacts on the t-stat going to the coil. Was going batty trying to work this out until I reread the instructions online regarding the t-stat

You must have a heating thermostat - I was thinking of an air conditioning one, where the n.o. contacts would close on heat rise.

 

[thisoldhouse]

no, a Ranco. I think because of my limited understanding, I am having a hard time visualizing how I'd hook things up. It is a process to learn

 

[rives]

Play around with it a bit, and if you are still having trouble, holler back. I can sketch up a circuit and scan it for you.

 

[thisoldhouse]

I am definitely more hands on and find it hard to visualize something foreign to me, so I have been drawing it out. I get using one of the switches to keep the coil energized, totally makes sense, I just get how putting the button between the t-stat and coil changes anything. It certainly could be that I'm misunderstanding your initial explanation :/

 

[thisoldhouse]

and Rives, thank you for your help!

 

[rives]

Well, I'd already scanned this, so here it is. There are lot's of ways to do this, this is just one.

R1 is your existing lighting relay.
R2 is the over-temperature latch.

Everything functions as it currently does until the thermostat closes on high temperature. R2 will pull in, opening the contact in front of R1 and dropping it out, and simultaneously closing the R2 contact in series with the reset pushbutton. When the temperature cools to the point that the thermostat opens, R2 remains energized because of the current flow through the reset pushbutton and the now-closed contact. It will remain this way until the reset button is pushed or the power goes off.

*edit* You apparently need to clear out your message folder before I can reply to your pm. No matter, I was just giving you a heads up that this was here.

 

[thisoldhouse]

Thank you again Apparently my inbox only holds one message and that was the one I sent you :/

 

[Derka]

Dx produces a solid reliable product, at a bargain price in comparison to other better marketed, higher priced products.

Much like the saying goes, fast, cheap, correct.. you got get two out of the 3. Personally I'm currently using two different Dxhydro units, no issues, and they have functioned flawlessly. I had some communication issues with the second purchase, but thats what you get if you take to much on your plate.

I'd buy from him again without hesitation.

my .02 cents

 

[dxco]

what would be the easiest way to wire up a delay and a high temp shut-off?

Buy an Emerson 16E09-101 temp control (about $80 at HVAC dealer) -Has a 0-12 minute anti-short-cycle delay which will prevent your lights from short cycling after a High-Temp condition OR on power failure. Connect relay to output.
PM or email for schematic... DX

 

[dxco]

I had to rebuild mine. It was not to code. If you ever need to get your electrical inspected it will pass. Now that I have done so much research on these I would never buy one again. I can build my own..

NEC article 410.62(C)(2) states:

(2) Provided with Mogul-Base, Screw Shell Lampholders.
​

​

Electric-discharge luminaires provided with mogulbase,
screw shell lampholders shall be permitted to be connected
to branch circuits of 50 amperes or less by cords
complying with 240.5. Receptacles and attachment plugs
shall be permitted to be of a lower ampere rating than the
branch circuit but not less than 125 percent of the luminaire​

full-load current.

WHat this user failed to mention is that he bought my cheapest, entry-level controller @ $144, which has ONE 30A circuit with ONE 40A relay. It is built exactly as discribed and the customer received exactly what he paid for!

I might also add that houses and commercial buildings all over the US have 15A receptacles installed on 20A circuits. This is a common practice and is acceptable by NEC and most local codes (probably every local code in the US).

There are tons of commercially manufactured lighting controllers out there, connected directly to 30-50 amp breakers, with no secondary over-current protection between the feeder and the 15A receptacles: Tital, Cap, PowerBox, to name a few.
Then there are the UL listed PowerBox controllers with one 50A breaker protecting all of the outlets (60A on the direct-wired model).

I have no problem with 30A at the outlets but I don't like to go any higher although the NEC says up to 50 is acceptable -IMO, 50 amps is a bit too much (unless it's a factory or a wall mart, etc. and we are running hundreds of lights -or a parking lot)

In closing: You get what you pay for. I'm not getting rich building lighting controllers. I don't misrepresent my products as something they are not. My Basic and D7200 controllers are wired with a single relay and 30A circuit. Most others are wired with 20A circuits (15 or 20A receptacles depending on stock), four outlets per circuit (up to 4Kw). You get what you pay for and I believe most of my customers will agree that my controllers are the best value available and bullet-proof.

So, please, before you go badmouthing somebody's work in a public forum, do your homework to make sure that your information is not flawed.

Thanks again for your purchase -Hope your controller provides decades of dependable service (not that it would have performed with any less dependability had you left it alone).

DX

PS: If the worst thing anybody can say about me is that my communication could be better -or that I'm often behind schedule -I think I'm doing all right. I'd rather hear that than "DX products are made in some chinese sweat shop with the cheapest materials & the customer service people didn't know shit (or speak english) -But the service is fast!"

 

[Burning Tree]

Thanks for clearing the air Dan!

I purchased a custom controller from DX over a year ago. New spot, 3 phase, I had no fucking idea how I was going to wire my shit. Found his site and we began exchanging emails. We were able to verify what type of 3 phase power was coming into the building by sending him some pics of the panel and Dan was able to to help me understand how these systems work.

So we decided how it was going to be set up and Dan was able to provide me with kit that required minimal assembly for an even cheaper price.

All in all I paid ~$140 for a 3 phase lighting controller that handles ~7200 watts on a 20 amp 3 phase breaker. The panel is robust and made out of high quality components. The relay itself, which is an industrial square D 4 Pole, was pretty pricy upon looking into it . Been running with no hitches for a year +.

My main concern with the units upon first seeing them was the timer that was used and its reliability over time. I decided to go with a unit that just comes with a trigger cable and I use a Sentinel HID-2 Lighting controller with hot start and all that to sleep better at night.

That my .02 and I will continue to recommend DX as I have been since my purchase.

Thanks Dan!

 

[rives]

NEC article 410.62(C)(2) states:

(2) Provided with Mogul-Base, Screw Shell Lampholders.
​

​

Electric-discharge luminaires provided with mogulbase,
screw shell lampholders shall be permitted to be connected
to branch circuits of 50 amperes or less by cords
complying with 240.5. Receptacles and attachment plugs
shall be permitted to be of a lower ampere rating than the
branch circuit but not less than 125 percent of the luminaire​

full-load current.

Unless there has been a landmark change in the current version of the NEC from the previous versions, you are mis-representing what the code states and it's intention. The portion that is not quoted in your excerpt states that this wiring method is only to be used for luminaires hanging directly below the receptacle, connected with a listed cord assembly, and the cord must be visible for it's entire length. I believe that there used to be a stipulation on keeping the cord length at or under 18".

This wiring method is intended for high-bay factory-floor lighting with luminaires utilizing integral ballast/reflector assemblies and factory-made cord assemblies that are virtually immune to damage as a result of where they are installed - it is not intended for use in a residential setting, powering up remote-ballasted lights using cords that frequently stretch into two rooms and utilize a variety of home-made components. To this point, the NEC hasn't really addressed HID lighting in residential settings, and to represent these products as meeting code to a bunch of electrically-naive customers is deceptive at best, as well as potentially dangerous.

From what I have seen, you offer a pretty good product at very reasonable cost, but I find this part of your construction very worrisome.


Link to code reference


*edit* It should also be noted that you are selling a "universal" product that provides switching based on a timer function. This product could be used for controlling a heater, and air-conditioner, a dehumidifier, an LED fixture or anything else that can be plugged into a receptacle that the user would want controlled on a time basis. Even if your rather loose interpretation of a highly-qualified portion of the code were valid for HID lighting, it certainly isn't for the multitude of equipment that could be hooked up to it.

 

[krunchbubble]

DX

PS: If the worst thing anybody can say about me is that my communication could be better -or that I'm often behind schedule -I think I'm doing all right. [/SIZE][/FONT][/QUOTE]


as a consumer, that tells me your lazy and don't give a shit about customers...

it DOES NOT matter how busy you are, all it takes is a few minutes to reply to customers...

we have time frames to build our rooms, populate them and get them going. fuck waiting for someone with poor communication skills to hopefully get back to us....

and YOU think your doing it right, pfff....