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Hardcore yellowing / 12/12 from seeds to harvest

greenfetish

New member
Hi docs,

2 weeks ago my plants started yellowing and it took me a week to find out what is it. But i still just 40% percent sure about that. This is why ask u experts. I think one of my WW has magnesium def. I have another WW which has nitrogen def and mb a slight magnesium def too. I have no idea about my Blue Cheese cos never seen that kind of yellowing. N def perhaps... My Humidity was extremly low in the whole time cos i thought i can feel it but then i decided to buy a meter just for sure. I cant feel it at all cos it was 22-25% so i turned the circulator vent off and put some containers with full of water. Its around 40% now so it should be ok.

Light: 250W CMH
Medium: Plagron Bat Mix
Temp: 86F daytime / 73F night
Pot: 5.5L
Age: 30 days
Watering with ro water every 3-4 days. Around 500ml/plant.

Blue Cheese
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image002.jpg

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WW (magnesium i guess)

image003.jpg image004.jpg

WW (n+mg ?!)

image002.jpg
 

greenfetish

New member
looks like PH issues are locking nutes out. what PH do you water at?

I checked runoff ph which is 6.8. I also did a check on soil and water mix, result is 6.7.

Btw, i have a power plant as well and she is healthy as f#ck.

I should also mention i gave them a microbiological bacteria stimulator twice. It doesnt contain any nutrition only those mini creatures your eyes cant see but medium loves it. I dont do it anymore tho cos ive read it can unbuild(wrong word but i hope u get it) guano in the soil.
 

greenfetish

New member
im also planning to give them epsom salt and BioBizz BioGrow 1ml/l dose tonight when the light turns on. Or shout at me if its a bad idea
 

greenfetish

New member
How's your drainage in those pots?

There are 4 holes on the bottom and the water exit easily. Last time i left some runoff under the bluecheese but it was like 50ml max for one day cos i was stoned and forgot. Usually i dont leave any water.

It hit my mind either thats mb root rot?! :yoinks:
 

jd4083

Active member
Veteran
a repot should solve all the problems!

That seems a bit premature to me, although I don't know the state of his roots....

Yes, he's going to want to up-pot at some point soon, but I don't know that this is his issue as of right this very second.
 

StRa

Señor Member
Veteran
this yellowing is always happen to me when my roots have full colonized the medium.......and also he's running at 12/12 so at this point the plant needs more energy in order to start flowering......
 

StRa

Señor Member
Veteran
how long they are in that pot?
I thought pot size doesnt affect their health

What is Root-Bound?

permalink
Root-bound is where the roots of your plant outgrow the container they are contained in.

The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:

1. Stunted Growth.

2. Stretching.

3. Smaller and slower bud production.

4. Needs watering too often.

5. Easy to burn with low % nutrient solution mixtures.

6. Wilting.

Here are two ways to remove your plant:
Before you start, always run a transplanting trowel or a long, flexible knife (dedicated for gardening only) between the old pot and your plant's root-ball.

For a root-bound plant with a strong, woody stem: hold the stem firmly and lift up so the pot is off the ground. Tap down around the pot rim with a rubber hammer or piece of wood until the pot lets go.

Another way is to turn the plant and pot upside down, holding the plant so it won't crash on the ground when it comes free of the pot. Make sure there's enough clearance to the ground, or you'll smash your plant. (One way to do this: cut a cardboard disk the size of the pot opening, cut a slit to accommodate the plant stem and slip the disk over the top of the pot before turning the pot upside down). Have your friend or family member pull upward on the pot. If you're working alone, tap the rim down on the edge of a table or bench. You may have to do this all around the rim before the roots let go of the pot. (The plant may come free from the pot all at once, so hold on!)

Once you've freed the plant from its old pot, inspect its roots, if the roots run in a tight circle around the outside of the root ball, you got there just in time. Dig your fingers into the outside 1/2" of these circular roots, loosen the ends up and pull them gently outward. If the roots are very tight, cut two or three 1/2" incisions from top to bottom on the outside of the root-ball. (Space the cuts around the root-ball.) This process may seem cruel, but it gives the roots an opportunity to stop their circular growth habit and begin to grow outward.

If the roots are extremely tight, slice a thin layer off the outside of the entire root-ball. Set the root-ball into its new pot, hold the foliage out of the way and add soil. Do not forcefully pack this new soil as you want the soil to be settled (with no air pockets) but loose enough to allow root penetration. One way to achieve this is to water the new soil in layers as you add it and this is also a great time to add SUPERTHRIVE.

Do not cover the top of the root-ball with a thick layer of new soil; IMO the surface of the old root-ball should also be the surface in the new pot. Once your plant is settled into its new pot, clean the foliage as dust keeps light from reaching the leaves and makes the plant more susceptible to mites and other pests. Make sure all H.I.D lights are switched off and give your indoor plant a shower in lukewarm water or dust the leaves with a soft, damp cloth.

Outdoor plants can be sprayed with a garden hose or spray bottle. If the potting soil you used doesn't contain fertilizer and you didn't add a root stimulator/fertilizer solution, give the plant a light feeding of diluted fertilizer. It is important that your newly re-potted plant receives the right level of light, newly re-potted plants will suffer if placed directly under your H.I.D lights or in direct sunlight. It may take a up to 2 weeks for your plant to become accustomed to its new accommodations so until you begin to see signs of new growth use reduced levels of light.
 

greenfetish

New member
Ive seen some 12/12 grow journals where they were in 44oz cup from seed to harvest and they were very healthy thats why im confused now.

Anyway my plants are in their pots since day 1 so its 30 days in total.
So how is it possible to keep them healthy in the same pot?
 

StRa

Señor Member
Veteran
So how is it possible to keep them healthy in the same pot?


yeah GF!!! this is a really good question!!!

IMO when growin in small pot every parameter (type of soil, water quality and his hardness RH and pH and so on) involved must be set perfectly!!!!
 
S

SeaMaiden

Ive seen some 12/12 grow journals where they were in 44oz cup from seed to harvest and they were very healthy thats why im confused now.

Anyway my plants are in their pots since day 1 so its 30 days in total.
So how is it possible to keep them healthy in the same pot?
It takes a good bit of skill and a lot of time/attention to those root bound plants.

But first, I would like to offer my own observations. Firstly, magnesium has nothing to do with the yellowing you're seeing. The plant needs nitrogen. It's using up the N stored in the lower leaves and using that to grow the new leaves. You need to provide more nitrogen (a balanced feed) so it can continue to grow well.

Easiest, quickest way to get NPK + trace nutrients into the plants is to use urine. Since they're so yellow, I'd probably go with a 5:1-8:1 water:urine ratio.
 

greenfetish

New member
SeaMaiden,

Thanks for your help. I repotted them to 2.5gallon pots and watered them with 10:1 water to urine just to make sure it wont be too much and also gave them a half tsp of epsom salt so it should be fine now. Im just worried about the stress i hope they wont go hermie
 
S

SeaMaiden

Yay! You've done two things that they definitely needed--repotting and feeding. If they haven't sexed yet, I wouldn't worry about this stress causing them to intersex. If they do, then you don't want those genetics anyway, in my opinion.
 

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