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Who's Running DWC/SWC with Water Pump

ogenko

Member
His healthy scrogs proved that water movement alone could provide sufficient oxygenation. !

in the aquarium world, the pros use surface water agitation(aka powerhead) to oxygenate. not bubbles

nice to be in the presence of a legend
 
High Dawn Patrol! Still more of us oldies--cool!!

Voidling--I use small lava rocks. Friends just provided hydroton clay balls recently but I quickly went back to the rocks. The balls rolled around next to each other and caused the plant to shift as I worked her into her SCROG screen. The irregularly shaped rocks lock more firmly into place.

I'm an old aquarium guy and that was a big part of my contributions at OG. Everyone was sterilizing their tubs but I knew that wasn't conducive to a proper biology--at least in an aquarium.

So I didn't dump tubs but, instead, encouraged good bacteria. And they need media (it would be rocks in the bottom of an aquarium)...so I leave a large portion of the netcups dipped in the nutes so the bacteria can live in the nooks and crannies of the lava rocks. I also attach a foam filter piece to the intake of the powerhead for even more places for the good bacteria to reside. After that you just need good water movement and you'll have a happy tank!

And I grow in a box which I try to keep stealthy. The shorter the box, in that case, the better. Mine is 34" tall and I SCROG in a SWC under a 150hps. The finish tubs are larger than that veg tub in the photo (to allow for all the roots) but the same height--just 6".

By the way, back to One Q's original question (sorry, I hope I'm not stealing your thread), that veg tub barely holds over 2 gallons of nutes and is running the same 160gph powerhead as I run in my finish tub. Around 80 gallons per hour and no problems with too much flow!


Ya, water movement seems to be just plenty, NIMBY you mentioning your background just explains it all :-D I have recently started really reading about aquariums, as I'm about to purchase my first Oscar, and I have noticed MORE MOTION of water, rather then bubbles. Makes sense... don't want stagnant water, just like when I make my "BREWS", water cant stop moving or become anaerobic very quickly.

My current RDWC is just like Bio-Buckets, just with its little differences, and its been running for around 3 weeks now, no plant in her yet but im about to throw the little babies in there Im thinking today or tomorrow, LOTS of bene's.

balls... lol im still working on always taking into consideration the "good guys" eheh ie: beneficial bacteria, I didnt even realize that lowering the cups INTO or ALMOST into the water, making sure they just are always wet, gives a home to the good guys hehe.



Love hearing the wisdom from the ol'timers, HEHE Dont take offense please, its a compliment to the fullest of degrees my friend :-D
Its how I take the old school teachings and apply them to the more UP TO DATE new school technology that we have at our finger tips :-D (mainly applying automation to everything, humans dont need to do the "HARD" work of plowing, planting, harvesting of their food anymore, its been long enough lol, but I will admit I LOVE doing all that jive, but will do less work if i know it will provide for a larger outcome)

cheers my friend,
love and light.


PS>>> I dont think your hijacking any thread, shit I would love for a person of your experience to jump on my thread and just start expelling information all over the place, but its all located IN ONE THREAD hehe makes it nice and easy to read A LOT of info at once.



 

Bunz

Active member
in the aquarium world, the pros use surface water agitation(aka powerhead) to oxygenate. not bubbles

nice to be in the presence of a legend

Back when I owned a fish & coral reef supply company, all of the aquariums we designed and installed used a "waterfall" method to oxygenate the water. Basically by having the return water above your water line, causing it to fall into the res and creating additional oxygen.
 

one Q

Quality
Veteran
I was thinking of a 20g SWC tub, instead of having the pump INSIDE the res I was going to make the pump a "thru" style pump.

So the pump INTAKE would be drawiing from one side of the res and the OUTPUT would shoot into the other side of the res. I figured a 300gph pump would do very well, but may go over kill and run a 600gph.
 

Mr Eckted

Member
+1 For OG. It was a sad day indeed, lots of useful knowledge and tuts lost. IC is for sure the closest in terms of professionalism, knowledge, etc. So many of us never found our way back to forums as far as I can tell.

Nimby:

Do you flower in those tubs as well? If so, do you have problems with the rootspace ever?
 

NIMBY

New member
I flower in a larger tub. I'm waiting for roots to grow out in that veg tub but the root systems get pretty big in flower.

That little veg tub is labeled as 12q (3 gallons) but it hold about 2 gallons of nutes. I cut six holes in the lid but one of the spaces is taken up by the powerhead. A wrap of soaker hose under the pots and hooked to an airpump will work, too, and the tub would then hold six plants. But the powerhead is quieter and that's the main reason I use it instead. The flowering tub is the same depth but about twice the size otherwise.

I put the powerhead in one corner of the tub and direct the flow of water so that the roots are blown away from the pump and have to work their way all the way around the tub before they reach the powerhead again.

If the root system finally gets close to the pump intake, I'll reach in and push it away. That's an advantage of the clear tubs--I can easily see what's happening down there. I have a foam filter piece on the intake that also protects the pump.

I only do one or two plants in a flower box so the root systems aren't a big problem. But you're right--they definitely would be in that small tub in the photo.
 

Hydrosun

I love my life
Veteran
High Dawn Patrol! Still more of us oldies--cool!!

Voidling--I use small lava rocks. Friends just provided hydroton clay balls recently but I quickly went back to the rocks. The balls rolled around next to each other and caused the plant to shift as I worked her into her SCROG screen. The irregularly shaped rocks lock more firmly into place.

I'm an old aquarium guy and that was a big part of my contributions at OG. Everyone was sterilizing their tubs but I knew that wasn't conducive to a proper biology--at least in an aquarium.

So I didn't dump tubs but, instead, encouraged good bacteria. And they need media (it would be rocks in the bottom of an aquarium)...so I leave a large portion of the netcups dipped in the nutes so the bacteria can live in the nooks and crannies of the lava rocks. I also attach a foam filter piece to the intake of the powerhead for even more places for the good bacteria to reside. After that you just need good water movement and you'll have a happy tank!

And I grow in a box which I try to keep stealthy. The shorter the box, in that case, the better. Mine is 34" tall and I SCROG in a SWC under a 150hps. The finish tubs are larger than that veg tub in the photo (to allow for all the roots) but the same height--just 6".

By the way, back to One Q's original question (sorry, I hope I'm not stealing your thread), that veg tub barely holds over 2 gallons of nutes and is running the same 160gph powerhead as I run in my finish tub. Around 80 gallons per hour and no problems with too much flow!

Back in the day was cool! This place is trying to keep the OG knowledge alive. There is a lot of wisdom you can help us regain.

picture.php


I love hearing about tanks and plants and how similar they are!

:joint:
 

Mr Eckted

Member
I flower in a larger tub. I'm waiting for roots to grow out in that veg tub but the root systems get pretty big in flower.

That little veg tub is labeled as 12q (3 gallons) but it hold about 2 gallons of nutes. I cut six holes in the lid but one of the spaces is taken up by the powerhead. A wrap of soaker hose under the pots and hooked to an airpump will work, too, and the tub would then hold six plants. But the powerhead is quieter and that's the main reason I use it instead. The flowering tub is the same depth but about twice the size otherwise.

I put the powerhead in one corner of the tub and direct the flow of water so that the roots are blown away from the pump and have to work their way all the way around the tub before they reach the powerhead again.

If the root system finally gets close to the pump intake, I'll reach in and push it away. That's an advantage of the clear tubs--I can easily see what's happening down there. I have a foam filter piece on the intake that also protects the pump.

I only do one or two plants in a flower box so the root systems aren't a big problem. But you're right--they definitely would be in that small tub in the photo.

Awesome, thanks.

So you must pull them out of there and put them in the larger tubs before the roots get too close to each other then? How tall would they be going into flower?

When you say the flowering tubs are larger, you mean taller, but the same size mouth?

Lastly, how many plants that size would be suitable for every 1000W do you think? Assuming the goal is a pound and a half + for each light.

Thanks for your input dude, it's a huge help to be able to pick your brain.
 

NIMBY

New member
High to cocktail frank and Hydrosun!!

I just wrote you a nice, long response, Mr Eckted...and then it disappeared. We've all had it happen and you know how frustrating that is! I'll sit down again a little later and do my best to answer your questions. Grrrrrr!
 

Mr Eckted

Member
High to cocktail frank and Hydrosun!!

I just wrote you a nice, long response, Mr Eckted...and then it disappeared. We've all had it happen and you know how frustrating that is! I'll sit down again a little later and do my best to answer your questions. Grrrrrr!
Ah, computers, yeah. I recommend smoking one, and tackling it later if the mood should arise, lol.

tnx
 

NIMBY

New member
OK, let's try again...

Mr Eckted--If roots tangle in the veg tub and are damaged when the netcups are removed, it's absolutely no problem. They'll grow right back--just like any damage to the plant itself. They're in veg and will grow back quickly.

I veg them until they're about a foot tall and then move the netcups to the finishing tub and start training the plant(s) into the SCROG screen with the light set for 18/6. When the screen is about 1/3 full (maybe 1/2 for shorter/Indica type plants), it's time to switch to 12/12.

Usually just takes a few days for the plants to reach proper size in the screen and you could also veg them until they'll fill the screen as soon as they're moved and save the 18/6 part. The stretch will fill the rest and the screen will be full within three weeks of 12/12.

The little veg tub in the photo is 10" x 15" and 6" deep. The finishing tubs are 20" x 15" and also 6" deep. My box is 24" x 20" so that size tub fills out the bottom pretty completely. By "mouth size" I think you mean the holes in the tub lids(?) and, yes, they're the same whether veg or flower. The cups come right out of one and drop into the next with exactly the same size hole.

I think it's considered pretty average to expect one oz. per 50 watts of light. So a decent grow with your 1000w should get you 20 oz's. So shoot for above average and you'll reach your goal!

You usually figure one foot of plant canopy per 50 watts, too. So you're shooting for 20 sq. ft. Maybe 4' x 5'? Try fudging that a little to, say, 5' x 5' and that might help you reach 24 oz's. Hey, the middle 20' should get you the 20 oz's so maybe the fringes will add the rest, right?!

It's up to you on the number of plants. I can easily get one plant to fill my slightly-over-3' SCROG screen. So you could get by with as few as 4-6 plants, technically. It just takes a little more veg to get the screens filled to proper size before switching light cycles.

Obviously, you could use more plants to speed things up a bit. But I'd still recommend SCROG since it gives you a chance to control the height of all the plants, no matter what the genetics are.

(I'm copying this before hitting "post" this time! I got distracted and timed out last time.)
 

Voidling

Member
@Nimby are you using organics in there then? Or will the beneficial bacteria live with the chemical nutes? I'm running maxibloom in coco at the moment but if I can pull off a swc with the numbers I'm looking at it'd be great.

More specifically, I think this container will fit my floorspace near exact and closest way I've been able to find. How many plants do you think it could support? shooting for 24 possibly. Trying to run perpetual sog.
http://www.containerstore.com/shop/closet/storageBoxes?productId=10001213&N=72586
 
J

J.C.grower

high guys im currently at my second grow ever, i just started with soils, but after reading through a lot of forums and especially after reading this one, i am inspired to try an DIY DWC SWC. I am in :lurk:
 
F

Funion

Wow, NIMBY! Glad to have you around! I followed your advice to a 'T' with less is more approach. I NEVER had problems with DWC/SWC.
Glad you are back! Now go blow the minds out of some of these hydro folks!
 
Always heard so much about OG... nice to see old friends reunite! And that picture of the bud and computer with the lava lamp! Too funny!
 

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