NashvilleN
Member
I was just reading about this miracle product excitedly...and then I remembered I had bought some a few years back. It's unopened, but has no expiration info on it. How long is Eagle20EW good for?
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This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!
- Thread starter krunchbubble
- Start date
S
SeaMaiden
Could the scent difference be purposeful, like how is done with natural gas (it's 'smellified' so you can smell it if there's a leak)?
Eagle20 has a NASTY smell. Almost like diesel. It doesn't go away for a while.
TheGreenReaper
Member
Ok so can we agree that it isn't necessarily "Eagle-20" that kills powder mildew, more specifically it is "Myclobutanil" that kills the mildew?
In other words, any product with Myclobutanil in it will kill powder mildew?
Home Depot sells Spectracide's Immunox which is a fungicide that has Myclobutanil in it and it is a hell of a lot cheaper than Eagle-20.
In other words, any product with Myclobutanil in it will kill powder mildew?
Home Depot sells Spectracide's Immunox which is a fungicide that has Myclobutanil in it and it is a hell of a lot cheaper than Eagle-20.
G
greenmatter
^^^^^ i have never read the label on Immunox, the big questions would be what else is in there? and in what ratios? how many active ingredients are there? can you get enough Myclobutanil on the plant to kill the PM without another ingredient being in a high enough concentration to kill or damage the plant?
$60 for a lifetime supply of eagle 20 is really not that much IMHO, but if i did not have the $60 or could not get the eagle i guess i would be doing some reading about Immunox
good luck ! i hope it works for you !
$60 for a lifetime supply of eagle 20 is really not that much IMHO, but if i did not have the $60 or could not get the eagle i guess i would be doing some reading about Immunox
good luck ! i hope it works for you !
I've read the label and it's a Myclobutanil-containing fungicide that is safe to use on all types of plants. It specifically says that it gets rid of powdery mildew.... so since it has the same exact ingredient as Eagle-20 it sounds like it should do the trick.
What do you need a lifetime supply of Eagle-20 for if 1 application is all you need? I'd rather only waste $10 than $60.
Here is the Spectracide Immunox label:
http://www.spectracide.com/~/media/Spectracide/Files/Product Labels/Immunox/071121610003.ashx
"Protects Fruits, Nuts & Vegetables"
http://www.spectracide.com/~/media/Spectracide/Files/Product Labels/Immunox/071121610003.ashx
"Protects Fruits, Nuts & Vegetables"
I've only see one thing work. A user named mark6699331 in this thread, https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=43220&highlight=zone+penetrator&page=2, talks about his use of Dutch Master Zone and Penatrator to solve this problem.
I have to say it is the only thing that worked. Make a garbage can of this solution, put your entire plant upside down in it. It is the only thing I know of that goes into your leaves and kills this shit. It is the only thing that ever got rid of PM for me forever.
I have to say it is the only thing that worked. Make a garbage can of this solution, put your entire plant upside down in it. It is the only thing I know of that goes into your leaves and kills this shit. It is the only thing that ever got rid of PM for me forever.
TheGreenReaper
Member
I have heard zone works - its copper based isnt it? I just haven't seen/heard it work like this...850+ posts on this stuff, with post after post of "yep killed it dead and gone to never respawn".
Disclosure...I have used pentrator w/ other products, but have NOT used zone. I have used nearly every other PM product.
Lots of talk of danger with Eagle 20, but no threads like this one on Zone:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=144286&page=2
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greenmatter
that stuff works so good that i thought PM would never be a problem for me again, which got me confident enough to start trading clones again after i got rid of the PM the first time ...... i found out the hard way that there are strains of PM (or at least one) that it won't cure.
if you wont use, or just don't want to use chemicals the stuff is definitely worth trying. it does work ..... just not every time IME
G
greenmatter
just read the Immunox label you posted. looks like you found the eagle at the home depot.
if it works you are not "wasting" whatever amount you spend
I just wish there were some people here who could post some personal experience with Immunox.
I'm like 90% convinced that it will do the same exact thing as Eagle-20, but that last 10% is still bothering me. lol
CFP65
Member
got hands on some Eagle20EW now trough a freind, and its deffinately NOT the same product, will dunk all my plants later today.
question is there any best time to do it?
im 8days into 12/12 now
but is it best to do it just before lights off or should i do it just before lights on or
just take them out of the tent and dunk and wait for them to dry up and put them in again?
question is there any best time to do it?
im 8days into 12/12 now
but is it best to do it just before lights off or should i do it just before lights on or
just take them out of the tent and dunk and wait for them to dry up and put them in again?
Eagle20 never hurts the plants. I actually think they like it.
TheGreenReaper
Member
For me, since I never had buds, or any bud density on a plant treated with Eagle, it is the only product I spray at lights off. I feel the overnight soak really helps to allow the product into the plant tissues so you don't have to worry about it again. I have always been successful with the eagle and one drop of vegan glycerin soap being sprayed, never needed to dunk like dealing with bugs. Peace.
gr0wm3
Member
Oh, for what it is worth ..... PM is simple to take care of obviously if your humidity isnt too high, obviously some indica dom strains are likely to be beefy and possibly more prone to mold spores due to humidity.... so fixing environmental conditions first would be the go,,,,, but that being said ... Dutch master Zone with penetrator/saturator ..... its a chlorine derivative that can be sprayed up to around week 5 or so of a 9 week flowering strain .... and doesnt just destroy moldspores / bacteria spores/ PM on contact ..... when used with penetrator or saturator ... because penetrator/saturator allows dutch master zone to become systemic and therefore the plant is usually resilient to PM afterwards ..... Ive had the displeasure of having to grow in a highly humid room once (outside of my control) with a large sog with fat buds and huge 4.5footer+ mums in the one grow room and thanks to dutch master zone and dutch master saturator/penetrator .... i was able to keep it well under control..... not sure if this helps, i noticed dutch master zone was mentioned above but wasnt mentioned in the light it should have been ....
peace n pot,
peace n pot,
