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Ballast Reliability: Digital or magnetic?

whazzup

Member
Veteran
I think KNNA is also building a small sphere or has built one already. Your sphere needs to be calibrated regularly. For that purpose we have official calibration lamps, there are several ways to do it though.

Yes, we have spectrometers too. That's for example how we measured the plasma lamp spectrum. For the UV range you would preferably have special sensors, I think the OceanOptics shows a lot of noise in the low bandwidth region.

The problem with the lamp tests was that the lamp/ballast combination is also important: on some ballasts some lamps do not reach optimal 100% power conditions, for example the only get to 960W instead of 10000. But we found a solution for that too: we modified an electronic ballast so we were able to tune the ballast to every lamps optimal output power, and optimal overrun/underrun values. So when we measure at 1000W we indeed measure 1000W going to the lamp, according to the lamp specs. With the power analyzer do not only measure the ballast input, but also the ballast output current, voltage, frequency, THD, harmonics etc.

I just had a look at the preliminary list after one series of measurements, it includes the Ushio, Hortilux, Venture, Gavita, Philips USA, I believe even Digilux. We have quite a collection of lamps here already. I have lumens and micromole measurements. All new lamps after minimal burn-in period in a calibrated ulbricht sphere with optimal lamp power (electronically tuned with a high frequency ballast (>90 kHz). I really hope that other manufacturers will now also publish their ppf values for their lamps. And of course everyone who has a sphere at their disposal can repeat every test, where it is important to measure at the same conditions, that is ballast adjusted to optimal output to the lamp. Some lamps are at 100% already relatively high in their efficiency curve, performing less efficient when you overrun them. Other lamps still have enough headroom and even show improved efficiency overrunning. The actual lamp voltage is a good indication for that. Over time the lamp voltage rises, until the lamp runs out of specs. That's when a good electronic ballast shuts down. That also can happens for example when there is a manufacturing problem with a lamp and the lamp voltage rises too fast or when the lamp already has a high lamp voltage and then is overrun for a while. It will still start at 1000W but shut down by the ballast when it it boosted.

Interesting stuff ;)

This is the sphere in which we test lamps:
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More pictures of the equipment can be found here Also a good example that some chinese ballasts do not come to 100% output. They do not use a lot of power and they do not get warm but you do miss up to 10% of your light. You can also see that with these particular lamps the efficiency increased when overrunning. You can also see in the first table that, at optimal input voltage, the magnetic ballast performs as good as the lumatek running at superlumens (+5%), obviously not as efficient of course.
 

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whazzup

Member
Veteran
oh and of course I was serious, I'm almost always serious :D. I think the best way to have a good discussion is when you are face to face and can actually test and show what the measurements are. I'm not someone who runs away from criticism. We have the 200W lamp here too of course and it is interesting to see what happens on the test benches at philips research. Gavita is a philips development partner so generally well informed. Just a bit careful with spreading "the word" until the new lamps have proven themselves. In horticulture you take no chances with your lighting, specifically not at quantities of 10,000 fixtures+, it has to prove itself a stable long term solution. With every new technology there are bumps to be taken, the greenvision system is now in its third generation of improval already.
 

BigDawg

Member
the solis-tek is the only digital ballast with software in it that runs a 3 second test before it fires up for safety issues in case there are any wiring or circuit issues... it also detects when the lamp is near the end of its life... and if you are using multiple ballasts, they don't all fire at once.. so no tripping breakers or huge power surges all at once. It has a soft start but not sure about a soft-dim. Don't know the boost rating on it.
 

whazzup

Member
Veteran
Ok, that let's say "pre-check" is an extra safety, the random start is, most advanced electronic ballasts check lamp connection, end of life (they shut off at a certain lamp voltage), internal temperature (overtemp shup-off) and soft start. I think the ballast with the display on it with internal timer looks pretty cool :)
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
And the Solis Tek has huge heat dissipating fins. Seems like a really cool unit.
 

whazzup

Member
Veteran
The trick to a cool ballast guys...

Please hang your ballasts VERTICAL so the air can go through the cooling ribs and cool your ballast efficiently. It really can make quite a difference. Also better electronics stay cooler ;).

Heat is the worst enemy of electronics. It will reduce reliability and survival rate of the electronics: In other words they are more likely to break down when they get too warm.

Also, if you have 240V available: USE IT! A 240V ballast dissipates much less heat than a 120V ballast (uses less power!) and you save so much copper :D
 

BigDawg

Member
sup with the gavita ballast? Looks interesting. What bulb is readily available for them? Or do you have to have a special bulb for them? Looks like they only run on 240v or three phase?
 

whazzup

Member
Veteran
The Gavita Pro-line ballasts only works on 230/240V. They are specifically designed for the 400V electronic high frequency (philips) lamps. Gavita will bring their own 400V electronic lamps to the market too, but until then it's the Philips lamps. It's the lamp/ballast combination that is tuned. The 600W Pro model has Philips GreenVision electronics and is not adjustable, the 1000W has Gavita electronics and is adjustable.
 

spurr

Active member
Veteran
@ All,

Hortilux is selling their own E-ballast (made in Japan) soon :D, I wrote about this in the Hortliux E-lamp thread I wrote. The E-ballast is made to provide ideal frequency to match that of their new 1,000 watt SuperHPS E-lamp, so far they are only selling the 1,000 w SuperHPS as E-lamp, but they will sell a 600 w SuperHPS E-lamp by next year.
 

OjoRojo420

Feeling good is good enough.
Veteran
Just to add some...

I am extremely happy using Sylvania Grolux 600W HPS bulbs with my digital ballasts (have tested two brands so far (TechOne and Welthink) with perfect results. Lamps work totally silent and very bright.

And most importantly... plants LOVE Grolux's light spectrum; superior trich development!

Just my experience so far.

Ojo
 

spurr

Active member
Veteran
The trick to a cool ballast guys...

Please hang your ballasts VERTICAL so the air can go through the cooling ribs and cool your ballast efficiently. It really can make quite a difference. Also better electronics stay cooler ;).

Heat is the worst enemy of electronics. It will reduce reliability and survival rate of the electronics: In other words they are more likely to break down when they get too warm.

FWIW, I place a fan so it blows air over my E-ballasts, that really helps keep 'um cool. But I will now place them vertically, and place the fan so it blow on them ... best of both worlds :).
 

whazzup

Member
Veteran
The grolux is a bright shining lamp as you also saw in the test, but the light maintenance in our experience is not so good. As long as you change it regularly no problem. A lamp that performs well in one ballast can have problems with the frequency in another ballast though, so always check for acoustic resonance and keep a sharp eye on the wire frame in your lamps. If they start to bend it means that the wire frame can not withstand high frequency energy. Here is what acoustic resonance in the arc tube looks like. That's a lumatek lamp that is very stable on the lumatek ballast at 60 kHz, but unstable on the 40 kHz Quantum. You can use welding glasses to inspect your own lamp and don't burn yourself getting close to the lamp! Hands on your back!
 

BigDawg

Member
what happens when the power goes out then comes back on real quick or off and on off and on..like in storms or something.. do the digital ballasts have a delay for when it comes back on or does it blow the circuits or something up?
 

Bush Dr

Painting the picture of Dorian Gray
Veteran
The day my magnetic melted the plug and fused the lead into the unit, scorching the white casing a dark brown was the day I got my first digital ballast ..... 3 yrs on it's still going strong

I've since given all my magnetics away and would never swap back

Good video
 

whazzup

Member
Veteran
what happens when the power goes out then comes back on real quick or off and on off and on..like in storms or something.. do the digital ballasts have a delay for when it comes back on or does it blow the circuits or something up?
An electronic ballast as well as a magnetic ballast which goes without power will fire immediately when the power comes back on-line. That's not too good for your lamp as it hasn't had any time to cool down but normally will work. If the lamp is too hot it can be a problem firing because it is too hot. However if the power outage is only a few seconds it will fire. Some ballasts go into error and need to be reset (such as the Lumatek - take power off to reset) and some just keep trying until they start again.
 

BigDawg

Member
The day my magnetic melted the plug and fused the lead into the unit, scorching the white casing a dark brown was the day I got my first digital ballast ..... 3 yrs on it's still going strong

I've since given all my magnetics away and would never swap back

Good video

was the magnetic a switchable (mh/hps) that had the burnt plug?
 
T

THE TROOPER

what happens when the power goes out then comes back on real quick or off and on off and on..like in storms or something.. do the digital ballasts have a delay for when it comes back on or does it blow the circuits or something up?

during the hurricane this summer my digitals went on and off about 12 times in about an hour then remained on for good!
the power would go out and then come back on in about 15 to 30 seconds each time and i thought that might cause problems but they are all still running fine!


TT :tiphat:
 

OjoRojo420

Feeling good is good enough.
Veteran
OK... So far the combination of Sylvania Grolux 600W HPS and Welthink 600W ballast works well in my 240V, 60Hz set up.

No resonances were observed in the bulb, just one straight line of solid bright light.

I have a question; should I replace Grolux bulbs at 10k hours of less?

Thanks,

Ojo
 

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